K-Jet Resources

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eddypeck
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K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:45 pm

After posting this on Maccolls build thread to help out with the K-jet stuff I thought it was worth posting a proper thread to make available to all.

So over the past 18 months of ownership I've built up a good resource for K-jet stuff and found a couple of options for reconditioned parts. Not cheap, but not ridiculous either.

Reconditioned K-Jet components:
Welcome to ATP - The Home of Electronic Remanufacturing Since 1988
http://www.atpelectronics.co.uk/search/ ... mit=Search

KMI have been remanufacturing Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel Injection since 1982
http://www.kmipetrolinjection.co.uk/Bos ... tronic.htm

The price list from KMI as it doesn't show on their website but I contacted them recently. Correct as of January 2015:

The cost of an exchange Warm up Regulator is £132.00 + vat. Customers own unit rebuild.
The cost of an exchange Fuel Distributor is £300.00 + vat. Customers own unit rebuild.
The cost of a new Aux Air Valve is £169.00 + vat.
The cost of a new Accumulator is £154.00 + vat.
The cost of a new Injector is £34.00 + vat.

[EDIT] there are 2 types of injector. I had the other type at £56 each! :'(

Also NEW genuine stock:

Bosch classic parts site (you'll need to active Google Translate in Chrome)
http://www.bosch-automotive-tradition.c ... age_3.html

Bosch classic parts online shop
http://www.partbob.com/



K-Jet General Resources:
http://www.k-jet.org/articles/informati ... ing-guide/
http://www.auto-tat.co.uk/Bosch%20K-Jetronic.htm
http://www.ffp.fi/index.php?mid=2&pid=105
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?1 ... ure-tester
http://www.porsche924-944.nl/924/Troubleshooting.html

And not forgetting the legendary RubJohonnys' HOW TO: Tune your MK2/Corrado 1.8 16v guide
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=25972

And much as I dislike pushing people away to other forums as I think this one is the best, occasionally you find valuable content elsewhere

Inspiration
A pretty good, and interesting K-Jet build project:...
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=49436.0

And my fav... a mk1, but still a perios Turbo'ed K-Jet
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/ ... 38095.html

Documents and PDFs:
NEW DOCUMENTS ADDED 05/01/2016
Bosch K-Jetronic Injection Guide (Word .docx)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5e7VD ... sp=sharing

DIY Warm Up Regulator repair guide (PDF)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5e7VD ... sp=sharing

V.A.G. Service guide. K- Jetronic SSP 44 - German (PDF)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5e7VD ... sp=sharing

K-Jet Pressure Test Specifications (PDF)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5e7VD ... sp=sharing

K-Jet Factory Manual (PDF)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5e7VD ... sp=sharing

NEW DOCUMENTS ADDED 10/05/2016
Bosch K-Jetronic and KE-Jetronic mechanical fuel injection systems HAYNES supplement, for XR3 RS turbo, but much the same applies:
http://vwts.ru/injector/k_and_ke-jetronic.pdf

Same as above but Golf specific for 8v (RP engine code?)
http://vwts.ru/injector/k-jetronic/k-jet8v.pdf

K-Jet Tricks - Part 1
http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1988/04apr ... tricks.pdf

K-Jet Tricks - Part 2
http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1988/10oct ... ricks2.pdf

The beginnings of Fuel Injection
http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1999/nov/1199KJetronic.pdf

Basic Training - Part 1
http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1988/04apr ... tronic.pdf

Basic Training - Part 2
http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1988/05may ... ronic2.pdf

K-Jet Help for Hot Start
http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/1989/06jun ... tStart.pdf

I'll add more as I sort them out, TomRich sent me a bunch of stuff, in the meanwhile PM me if you want more info.
Last edited by eddypeck on Tue May 10, 2016 3:48 pm, edited 11 times in total.
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Hutch118
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby Hutch118 » Tue Feb 10, 2015 8:59 pm

That's an excellent list Eddy, very useful info

Hutch.
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eddypeck
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Tue Apr 14, 2015 1:32 pm

Quick addition to this. I've just been in touch with Mark Carter of http://www.classic-vw.co.uk/

He dose the under car fuel lines for MK1, and he should have Mk2 K-jet stuff available shortly.

As a guide price this is what's listed as an example for the Mk1 set up.

£45 for the pump to accumulator
£27 for fuel line to filter (braided)
£30 for accumulator to supply line (curly braided)
£45 for filter to metering head.

My rebuild is going to expensive but I'm very dedicated to it now. :thumbs:
Last edited by eddypeck on Tue Jan 05, 2016 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Thu Jul 16, 2015 2:40 pm

Update: Here are the filter pipes.

Accumulator To Fuel Filter 191201218 £36.50
Pump To Accumulator 191201373 £30.00
Pump To Engine Bay 191201374 £39.50

http://www.classic-vw.co.uk/fuel-pumps--pipes-726-c.asp

Manufactured by the company that supplied VW in the first place to the original specification, which is a shame in a way as they're only zinc plated rather than stainless steel which would have been nicer.
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:41 am

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eddypeck
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:43 am

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eddypeck
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:49 am

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eddypeck
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:51 am

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eddypeck
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Tue Jan 05, 2016 4:20 pm

Fuel supply
The fuel pump operates continuously while the engine is running, excess fuel being returned to the fuel tank. The pump is operated when the ignition switch is in the START position. Once the starter is released, a switch which is connected to the air plate, prevents the pump from operating unless the engine is running.
The fuel line to the fuel supply valve incorporates a filter and also a fuel accumulator. The function of the accumulator is to maintain pressure in the fuel system after the engine has been switched off and so give good hot restarting.
Associated with the accumulator is a pressure regulator which is an integral part of the fuel metering device. When the engine is switched off, the pressure regulator lets the pressure to the injection valves fall rapidly to cut off the fuel flow through them and so prevent the engine from “dieseling” or “running on”. The valve closes at just below the opening pressure of the injector valves and this pressure is then maintained by the accumulator.

Fuel distributor
The fuel distributor is mounted on the air metering device and is controlled by the vertical movement of the airflow sensor plate. It comprises a spool valve which moves vertically in a sleeve, the sleeve having as many vertical slots around its circumference as there are cylinders on the engine. The spool valve is adjusted to hydraulic pressure on the upper end and this balances the pressure on the air plate which is applied to the bottom of the valve by a plunger. As the spool valve rises and falls, it uncovers a greater or lesser length of metering slot and so controls the volume of fuel fed to each injector.
Each metering slot has a differential pressure valve, which ensures that the difference in pressure between the two sides of the slot is always the same. Because the drop in pressure across the metering slot is unaffected by the length of slot exposed, the amount of fuel flowing depends only on the exposed area of the slots.

Cold start valve (5th Injector)
The cold start valve is mounted in the inlet manifold and sprays additional fuel into the manifold during cold starting. The valve is solenoid operated and is controlled by a thermotime switch in the engine cooling system. The thermotime switch is actuated for a period which depends upon coolant temperature, the period decreasing with rise in coolant temperature. If the coolant temperature is high enough for the engine not to need additional fuel for starting, the switch does not operate.

Warm-up regulator - WUR (Control Pressure Valve - CPR)
While warming up, the engine needs a richer mixture to compensate for fuel which condenses on the cold walls of the inlet manifold and cylinder walls. It also needs more fuel to compensate for power lost because of increased friction losses and increased oil drag in a cold engine. The mixture is made richer during warming up by the warm-up regulator. This is a pressure regulator which lowers the pressure applied to the control plunger of the fuel regulator during warm-up. This reduced pressure causes the airflow plate to rise higher than it would do otherwise, thus uncovering a greater length of metering slot and making the mixture richer. The valve is operated by a bi-metallic strip which is heated by an electric heater. When the engine is cold, the bi-metallic strip presses against the delivery valve spring to reduce the pressure on the diaphragm and enlarge the discharge cross-section. This increase in cross-section results in a lowering of the pressure fed to the control plunger.

Auxiliary air device
Compensation for power lost by greater friction is achieved by feeding a larger volume of fuel/air mixture to the engine than is supplied by the normal opening of the throttle. The auxiliary air device bypasses the throttle with a channel having a variable aperture valve in it. The aperture is varied by a pivoted plate controlled by a spring and a bi-metallic strip.
During cold starting, the channel is open and increases the volume of air passing to the engine. As the bi-metallic strip bends, it allows a control spring to pull the plate over the aperture until at normal operating temperature the aperture is closed.

Cold acceleration enrichment
This system is fitted to later models only. When the engine is cold (below 35°C), acceleration is improved by briefly enriching the fuel mixture for a period of approximately 0.4 seconds. This cold acceleration enrichment will only operate if the thermotime switch, the diaphragm pressure switch and the throttle valve switch are shut off.

Temperature sensor
From March 1986, a temperature sensor is located between injectors 1 and 2. After switching off the ignition, this switches on the cooling fan when the temperature of the cylinder head exceeds 110°C. A time relay is incorporated in the circuit. This switches off the function between ten and twelve minutes after switching off the ignition.
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eddypeck
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Re: K-Jet Resources

Postby eddypeck » Tue May 10, 2016 3:18 pm

A few new PDFs added in original post.

Also, interesting article on finding air vacuum leaks in engines which mentions carb-cleaners, propane and smoke generators:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/ho ... cuum-leak/

However this does talk about MAF sensors, on-board computers, exhaust-gas oxygen sensors and check engine lights :lol: what is all this mumbo jumbo? but hey the principle still applies.

Anyway, cut out all that crap, and the fact this is basically a sales pitch for an expensive bit of equipment and I've copied and pasted the important bit here in case the link ever dies.

The Carb-Cleaner Trick

Here's how we old-line mechanics learned to chase leaks: To keep the engine computer from richening up the mix, pull the wire on the throttle position sensor or some other handy sensor that will keep the engine in open­-loop mode, where the computer just uses hard-coded default values for the amount of fuel instead of dithering the values around to stay near that golden 14.7:1 ratio.

This is analogous to the situation in a carbureted car (or motorcycle, or any other IC engine that doesn't have a computer). Start the engine and let it idle. Now spray aerosol carb cleaner onto the suspected leak. Yes, this is dangerous, especially if you consider your eyebrows important. There's not supposed to be an ignition source on the engine anywhere, but once in a blue moon, a stray spark or an overheated exhaust manifold can make the carb cleaner flare up. You've been warned.

The combustible carb cleaner will be sucked into the leak, and the engine will pick up its idle speed momentarily—and probably run on all cylinders if it's been misfiring. We quickly learned to use short, directed puffs of carb cleaner to localize the leak.

Another option is to use an unlit propane torch to prospect for leaks. A piece of hose shoved over the torch's valve outlet will let you poke around the engine bay. When the combustible propane is sucked into the lean-running engine, it will smooth out and speed up slightly. Similarly, you can spray water or motor oil onto a suspected leak and achieve the same end. When the water gets sucked into the leak, it momentarily interrupts the extra O2 stream, and the engine's idle will change.
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