Thanks for resounding 'Trackslag' feedback. Just heard the Mk2 soundtrack with their 2.25" (performance) system fitted, just what I'm looking for.
Would you recommend leaving OEM cast manifold along with front pipe in situ' then? Thinking a 4 into 1 s/s unit (say Milltek) would enhance engine gas flow and compliment larger bore of said Trackslag system?
In any event, I assume any competent exhaust fitter will be able to manufacture a conversion pipe to enable different bore specs to be married up?
Personally a shiny four branch is not worth the money. Itll be like getting a 500 quid remap and gaining 3bhp.
If the original 4-2-1 set up is ok then leave it be, and like said they are a nightmare to fit.
Stick with the OEM downpipe and imho the best around is the trackslag systems. Ill be getting one on mine as they have gone to the effort of make a twin slanty style tips to match the OEM style just with bigger bore
Just looking at the repo big bumper kit at VW heritage and wondered if any of you guys have actually had any experience with them- as my originals are pretty rough
Personally I would speak to the likes of brendon Moss at dubstock and source OEM bumpers or refurbish yours, the one set I used on my 8V GTI from bigboystoys which is now VW Heritage were not the best fitting.
As for the brakes the standard 16v brakes are good for 260 odd bhp when used with decent quality discs and pads, I used 16v brakes on my 20v turbo Mk2 and they stopped it pretty damn quick, you have to remember to the golf's are sub 1000kg in weight so big big brakes can be overkill.
Is the carb freezing up? my old Fiesta and Mk2 did this with the carbs the main inlet tract gets so cold that the dense air freezes and blocks up the carb, turn off and give it a minute or so and its fine.
There is a type of injector set up on most K-Jetronic fuelled VW engine's be that 16v or 8v.
The air shrouding system was implemented to maintain emissions at low engine speed when the engine's intake of inducted air it at it's lowest.
How the system works is pretty simple in its design: The injector is the same type of injector as the non shrouded variety but with the edition of a "top hat" on the end of the injector, this top hat allows air to pass through in the small gap between the injector body and the top hat itself, the air is then diverted either left or right (can go both ways) and is expelled outwards shrouding the fuel that is being injected.
The purpose behind this air shrouding is to enable the injected fuel to mix with the shrouded air providing better atomization taking the fuel from large uneven droplets to a finer mist, this allows the fuel to mix with the incoming inducted air far better that it would have leading to a faster and even burn rate which delivers a strong power stroke.
With limited inducted air at low rpm conditions its essential for the fuel to mix with that air as best as it can to allow all the fuel to be burnt during the combustion process, if its not all burnt it leaves in the exhaust stream which leads to high emissions.
The system parts - Fuel Injector P/N: 043 750 2043b - Lower injector insert P/N: 035 133 554 - Lower Insert seal P/N: 035 133 557 - Injector seat (Brass) P/N: 034 133 555a - Top injector seal P/N: 034 133 557e - Lower injector seal P/N: 035 133 557a
System air flow The air that is used for the air shrouding is drawn from the upper filtered part of the air box via a rubber hose that connects to the crank case breather, this hose has a smaller section the tee's off and connects to the lower part of the inlet manifold. The engines induction stroke draws air in as normal via the throttle body and through the above mention hose into a cavity that runs along the inlet manifold, the air then fills the orifice surrounding the injector body then out through the injector top hat.
There are two issues that arise with this system over time. -The top hat becomes blocked as it only has approx. .3mm gap between the injector body and injector top hat, as you can imagine a few dirty air filters will allow this to be come blocked. -The lower insert can fail, as it's made from plastic it will degrade over time and become brittle and very easy to damage when changing the injector seals.
The issues either of these faults cause are ruff running of the engine most noticeable at lower rpm, this is due to either an excess of air from a damaged insert which will cause a lean mixture in that cylinder or a poor burn rate of the fuel due to having no air shrouding.
Advice. - If your going to overhaul this set up get all the parts first and set to work, its not a hard job but to limited damaged removal of the inlet manifold is necessary to allow the old lower inserts to be removed without debris falling into the engine.
Below is a link to my YouTube channel where I have run through the above system, I always believe that to understand something you need to firstly know the theory and then get hands on and actually see the parts so hopefully the video will assist in the understanding and overhauling of the system.
Got 50 cars already since posting on Facebook already.
Its pretty much a Mk2 Register with basic info inc plate changes engine conversions etc
Current list includes: Current plate Previous plate Model Engine type Engine code Engine conversion Original colour Colur code Current colour Number of doors Exra info eg dealership/imported/track car/turbo technics