Have recently sold my Mk2 GTi 8V to a ‘classic car collector’, who after much forensic evidence gathering re’ condition has a new heated berth joining several 1980/90 classic cars etc. I’m assured the Golf will get regular runs to shows and family use on high days. New owner much impressed with new acquisition and knowing I’m in the Mk2 Forum has asked me to reach out to fellow members to assist him in a search for an A1 example of a Peugeot 205 GTi to join his fleet. This guy appears to be very knowledgeable in this area and the pictures I’ve seen of his ‘collection’ reflects his appreciation of original condition vehicles. I spotted two Mk2 Ford R/S Turbos and another Golf in his showroom. If anyone out there has or knows of a suitable 205 GTi to supplement his collection I can assure you cost is not his primary concern. Happy in first instance to field any potential interest on his behalf.
As all our car engines are pre-2011 constructed the use of E10 (up to 10 percent ethanol content) rated fuel surely heightens incidence of corrosive damage to some metals, pipelines and seals, particularly if vehicle has been standing for a long period.
That said, we have all been hooning around for several years gulping unleaded E5 (up to 5 percent ethanol content) so perhaps doom-mongers are over reacting?
In any event came across a positive take on situation while lapping up recent copy of Classic Motorcycle. Seems that Esso produce ethanol free unleaded petrol under their Esso Synergy Supreme + 97 and +99 (Gti loves RON 98) brands. These pumps will not be marked E0 but E5 by regulation but Esso guarantee no ethanol content for either. Not so good news if you live in Devon, Cornwall, Teeside, Scotland or NW England though, cos for some undisclosed reason, ethanol free Esso Synergy Supreme not available??
I have two Esso stations near to me so will fill up if either has the Supreme product and will report if I detect any loss of engine performance running ethanol free. Don’t forget, each petrol company has its own feed stocks and in-house processing technology and you need to grasp how variable the end product can be.
Owing to unforeseen circumstances I am having to find another custodian for above low miles car, which presents in superb condition.
It will shortly be advertised nationally, using usual suspect web sites. So giving you a heads up if you have DEEP pockets and desire to own a mk2 that only now needs polishing to preserve it. Definitely not suitable for spanner-monkeys.
Will not bore you here with all its many features save to note following;
1 previous owner 85,200 certified miles Black, 3 Dr All service records and MOTs since 1990 PAS, electric windows, sunroof, tinted windows factory fitted BBS RA wheels shod with 195 tyres 40mm lowered spring kit fitted 25,000 ago Car has led a charmed life bodily and structurally ( obviously never visited a supermarket car park) No resto’, welding, spraying or paint correction work
£13,999
For those of you still reading this who might be tempted car can be viewed in South Gloucestershire area. Happy to fwd images and further info on request etc. Mobile: 07557871984.
The joys of running 31 year old car. Too much time on hands, (retired), decided to check oil level and hoover/clean upholstery etc. Oil, good level and clear but lower bonnet catch spring gave up ghost and now can’t safely close same. Went to glovebox to peruse handbook for any ‘top tips’ (laugh) and noticed glovebox interior light not working (bulb blown) and to complete trilogy found glovebox inner shell was detached and sitting at back of dashboard exposing lots of failed glue applications used to try and keep it in place. Does anyone know how these hard plastic liners should be held in place? Mr Heritage has despatched ‘next day delivery’ of pattern lower catch and 4 pop rivets (£2.15 each!) the cable is still serviceable. Now need to unearth my trusty riveter last used to reassemble an errant motorcycle mudguard in 1990’s. I am supremely confident I can sort these issues myself, God knows I built enough AIrfix kits in my youth.
Here is a ‘detail’ item? Have always thought my car’s engine vibrated a bit more than designed to do when idling. Indeed, this low level vibration is transmitted to steering wheel. As soon as I touch the throttle it smooths out completely. I recall many moons ago reading an article which referenced ‘tuning weights’ for exhaust systems. I have recently replaced most of my exhaust system with s/s items but recall car vibrated a bit excessively at idle before this. At time I had all three engine mounts replaced so relatively happy this not cause. My heat shield now removed (rotted through) so can’t blame that. Any thoughts folks?
Is it me? Just run car in dark for first time since purchase and not impressed by instrument lighting in dash. Despite cranking adjustable knurled dial up to max’ the resultant white light illumination is to my mind ‘half-hearted’ albeit it does the important job of making my speedometer legible. Similarly, my electric window switches are faintly illuminated. Could I have wrong bulbs fitted or is this degree of illumination the norm for 32 year old VW? I would also liked to have either red or green lighting to compliment the GTi theme. Are there any mods out there to meet this perceived problem? As ever, any advices gratefully received.
Bank Holiday debate: Have, not for first time, come across another full page ad for ‘FTC Fuel tank pellets’ extolling virtues of this once only fix to achieve removal of and build up of carbon deposits resulting in restoration of lost performance and efficiency? While the ‘science’ seems unchallenged by experts it seems evidence of worthwhile gains are thin on the ground. Honest John simply reports use of branded petrol is sufficient. Any out there actually taken a punt in this direction and witnessed any benefits?
Just found the VW MK2 (1988) advert featuring Paula Hamilton on Google. A seminal moment for this vehicle I feel. Bought my first GTi a few weeks later after wife to be kept banging on about how impressed she was with the feminine link? As matter of interest administration how many lady members does forum have? I trust this is not a politically incorrect enquiry?
Another senior moment? Noticed that at leading edge of GTi dashboard (below front screen) #7 oblong recesses approximately 1/2” in length. Are these linked to ‘de-mist’ function or should there be 7 plugs or some kind of screw/clip arrangement? I must get out more, but still trying to bottom out if my car is missing an upper radiator cover!
Next on ‘to do list’: replace anti-roll bar rubbers. All evidence indicates my GTi (1989) has original items fitted, so long overdue replacement. $64,000 question is “will I have to remove the front 4 subframe bolts to facilitate this activity”? Any advices gratefully received.
Too expensive to fit! Opted to keep original front pipe in situ’ and replaced all other elements with s/s items. This part (brand new)and pre-cat, comes with new genuine VW heat shield and correct manifold gasket. Total outlay over £200, but happy to pass on for £95 to fellow enthusiast. Buyer to collect please. Am situated in S.Gloucestershire (Thornbury). Tel/text: 07557871984 Marcosgt.
A well rehearsed topic I’m sure. My Golf GTi 8 V (84k) exhibiting all signs of heat soak around failing to start when engine hot. Always starts when cold etc. To date, have tried being more robust with ignition key and have fitted a hard start kit. Thinking solenoid gremlins as starter now 30 years old? However, now find that VW manufactured a dedicated starter motor heat shield ( no longer available) for my car, at least for N.American market. My car does not currently have one to block heat from radiator. So friends, do I splash out for a new starter or pursue less expensive heat soak theory? As ever, any advices gratefully received.
I am toying with idea of having a 'hotter' cam fitted to my Mk2 GTi 8V digi @ 85k. I am hoping to increase torque values across most of the range and will keep below 272 degrees to maintain normal idle etc. I will probably fit a set of heavy duty valve springs for completeness.
The car already has a free flow air filter and a recent exhaust (Klarious?) fitted, which sounds like a performance item? standard manifold in place.
Has anyone out there gone down this route and was it worth while? Don't want to radically change the cars character so to speak but would like to achieve a bit more 'zip in the middle'.
My current mish-mash exhaust for GTI 8V (1989) appears to be coming to the end of its serviceable life.
Has anyone got positive/negative experiences of complete (manifold to back box) upgrades or should I stick to OEM components if I can afford same? More zip would be welcome but efficiency is what I am really looking for.
