The car is looking great, an impressive project. I'm working on my own project a 91 Driver which will be my sons first car. Where did you order the dealer plates from? Thanks.
Before you mess with the carb I'd make sure you check or replace any electrical items that are worn, eg distributor cap, rotor arm, and plugs check for any misfires on a cylinder, eg dodgy HT lead. If that doesn't make any difference I'd replace the carb mount/flange, because the rubber ones can split. If that doesn't fix it, it could be a carb problem, but I'm not familar with these carbs.
I've done it a few times, and I'm a nervous type. The hardest part is actually removing the allen headed bolts from the pulley if some a*rse has previously over tightened them. They should only be torqued to 15ftlbs, which ain't much. If they are done up too tight there is a big risk of rounding them out. To loosen them I use a tight fitting allen headed socket from my impact driver set. If you round them out you can use a sharp chisel to hammer them round. Fit new ones if they are worn at all, and dont over tighten. All the other elements of the job are covered in the Haynes manual. Before you remove the old belt get a feel for the amount of tension, you should be able to twist it slightly beyond 90 degrees with firm pressure. If you can only just reach 90 degrees with finger pressure its too tight.
Make sure the thermostat is opening and the fan is cutting in as it should. There is no harm replacing the thermostat and the water pump, but it may not fix the problem. I had a GL 1.8 golf that did the same, the gauge always showed the temp at 3/4 quarters when the engine was fully warmed up, but it never over heated and I put it down to an inaccurate gauge.
Okay. I bought a Golf driver for my son for his first car. Obviously insurance is going to be expensive, so the car will be kept stock. However, I'm going to fit some new B4 bilstein shocks, because I've run them in the past and the damping is a lot better than the stock ones and they look identical to stock ones. Eibach springs are great but they are obviously lower than stock, so cant get away with that. SO, I had an idea. Why not fit stock GTi springs, which I believe as 20mm lower than stock. However, although I found there is a separate part number for the GTi front springs (compared to the bread and butter models), all the usual suppliers list the same rear spring for all models, including the bread and butter ones, for the rear (191-511-115A). I even checked Bilstein's web site and they list the same rear spring for all models (36-226085). Doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Is this correct?
My understanding was the GTi has the same VWII calipers, but the pads were thinner to incorporate the vented disk. I bought fresh pads and 12mm discs from VW heritage, after checking the calipers were VWII. VW heritage list 'pads for 12mm discs', so I guessed there were slightly different to the pads for the 10mm discs. I also have drums on the rear, but being a 1600 it doesn't have the brake compensator valve at the rear.
Depends on the model of car. For the lower spec models there seems to be two types. The earlier type has 10mm (solid) discs and pads to suit, the later cars (VWII calipers) had thicker 12mm (solid) discs. Its easy to tell which calipers you have, just check for VWII written on the caliper or measure the width of the disc. I'm not sure about the higher spec models, such as the 16v GTi or G60, but someone else will know.
I also recommend you check the two thermo switches that sit in the main coolant pipe in front of the head are working. The red one is for the hedgehog, and the grey one is for the choke. To check them use a multi meter when the engine is cold on the switch terminals. A continuity check should find the meter beeps when the switch is cold. If not replace them. Mine were both broken.
It's worth having a watch of a bunch of videos by this guy. He helpfully explains how the 2E2 works, and once you understand it, its a lot easier to figure out whats wrong with it. It sounds like your 3 point unit is slow to retract to the idle position, as the waxstat should take over after the initial fireup, after somewhere between 6-30secs. Or it could be the waxstat is badly adjusted. It's unlikely to be the choke as that only controls the mixture at cold, not the revs. However, the videos explain how its supposed to operate, all the various devices attached to the carb and from there you can figure out what the fault it. I've watched them a few times and I now understand the basic operation of the carb. Its actually quite clever. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTxrLDwexWA
Hi, I recently picked up a bargain second hand weber 32/34 DMTL for my 1600 driver. There are a couple of issues to resolve though. The kit is missing the fitting instructions, which would be helpful to make sure than nothing is missing. Has anyone got a copy that they can post a photo of? Secondly, the seller didn’t know if the carb was for a 1600 or 1800. Does anyone know what the correct jet sizes for the 1600? I can easily pull the jets out to check. Bit of a faff, but these carb kits are expensive new, so its worth the hassle. Thanks K
Hi, Anyone got some good advice on changing the rear brake pipes that go to the rear wheel cylinders. The LHS one looks like a right arse to get to because the bracket for the brake compensator gets in the way of the brake pipe spanner. Very little space to work with at all. Cheers K
Lovely car. Many years ago I bought a bronze GL golf from a women in Ipswich, and I’m wondering if it’s the same person. The car I bought was very low miles, just 16k and she didn’t want to put miles on it preferring to use her cl. My gl also had the same stickers in the corner of the rear windows. So, I’m wondering if it’s the same person. Mmmmm
Sadly I had to sell my gl to fund my beetle project. I still miss it! Was a cracking original golf. Got a real soft spot for the bread and butter models rather than the gti. Hopefully buy another one, one day.
Thanks! That’s interesting - this was an Ipswich car too, the stickers being the same - it could well be as she ran the bundle of Dubz show!
That GL looks amazing, recognise the plate too for some reason - this little CL should be going up for sale this/next week unfortunately. Just listed the GTI today too.
That’s a shame. Send me a message with details about the cl and what your looking for. I’m pretty sure it’s the same golf I saw years ago.
Lovely car. Many years ago I bought a bronze GL golf from a women in Ipswich, and I’m wondering if it’s the same person. The car I bought was very low miles, just 16k and she didn’t want to put miles on it preferring to use her cl. My gl also had the same stickers in the corner of the rear windows. So, I’m wondering if it’s the same person. Mmmmm
Sadly I had to sell my gl to fund my beetle project. I still miss it! Was a cracking original golf. Got a real soft spot for the bread and butter models rather than the gti. Hopefully buy another one, one day.
