Been swotting up on gauges but thought I'd start a thread where I can check over the ins and outs of fitting them with those who've already done it.
Before that... Scherni was asking about brackets so here's a few images of a VDO one that you can use to make your own from as the bought ones are vastly overpriced for what they are.
I get aluminium off-cuts on eBay for small money, its easy to drill / cut and bend. There's plenty of sellers and you can often get pieces very close to the dimensions you'r after which saves on some work.
The genuine one below is for a long bodied gauge such as some clocks and the out-side temperature gauge, most others will be short bodied but you can simply adapt the arm length to fit your particular gauge depth, all the other details are the same.
I'm using a plastic ruler, so please allow for it being a little imprecise!
56mm across -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-63cb9b63-960w.jpg)
38mm hole center, to hole center - holes themselves are 5mm.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-1b52af23-960w.jpg)
13mm width -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-09b664a2-960w.jpg)
Arm length 60mm (NB - For the long bodied gauge, standard gauges are approx 1/3 shorter)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-5dc40dd9-960w.jpg)
Question of my owm -
I've picked up a new, genuine VDO oil pressure sender for a fraction of the price it should be.
The downside (of sorts) is that I've had to allow for the thread being 1/8 NPT whereas the receiving hole on the MK2 is M10x1- which is no big deal as an adapter would've been needed to connect both it and the existing sender anyway and it was just a case of getting one with both types of thread instead of each being M10x1.
This particular VDO sender is also the 2 x pole version (single pole are available), with that additional pole intended to feed a low pressure warning light.
I can see no reason why it'd make any difference to the operation of the gauge regardless of the number of poles you have?
The second pole is soley to fit a warning light, if present and used it'll be independant of the cars own warning light - so in effect you'll have 2 x warning lights.
The VDO sender operates its low pressure warning at 1.25 Bar.
Have I understood correctly that the standard VW sender activates the cars own warning light at 1.8 Bar (on 8v GTI's)?
This particular VDO sender is also the 2 x pole version (single pole are available)
The second pole is soley to fit a warning light, if present and used it'll be independant of the cars own warning light - so in effect you'll have 2 x warning lights.
Unless you had to remove the factory sensor to fit the VDO sensor.
You know, I could 3D print some plastic ones from the information you've given me...
My understanding, I'm yet to fit my set. I have TIM gauges rather than VDO (I just liked the name on the gauge).
The 2 pole sender goes in place of the current pressure sender that does the warning light/buzzer. So 1 pole feed the original function the other pol feeds your new gauge.
If you only have a single pole sender you would have to keep your original sender too, this would mean a T piece of some kind.
Now if you intend to fit oil temp as well as pressure you can either use the oil temp sender location that feeds the MFA oil temp (where present) but this means you'll no longer have oil temp in the MFA. If you want to keep the MFA and add a gauge again you'll need a splitter. This is the route most people seem to take, which is a good reason to have a 2 pole sender otherwise you'll need 2x splitters.
The next thing that comes into question is the location in the block. I gather the pressure gauge can give slightly different readings depending on it's location and more so if you have to use T piece or a remote pipe.
Some oil temp senders can run off an adapted sump plug, I assume the temp can vary in different parts of the engine. Another reason to keep the MFA gauge if you're readings are taken from 2 parts of the engine.
As for M10 vs NPT, most of the T pieces seem to be some combination of NPT so having a sender with that thread will most likely make life easier. The T pieces that have 1 make and 2 female M10 threads tend to be much more expensive and less readily available.
A 3D print would likely work perfectly, there's no real force used by the metal clamp as very little effort is needed to hold the gauge in place... infact over tightening would probably cause damage.
The rear housings on some ages / styles of VDO gauge are already entirely plastic, including the threaded bars the clamp slides onto
This is a great site for VDO technical specs and numbers if you're looking for the correct senders to match your specific gauge-
VDO Webshop NL (https://vdo-webshop.nl/en/)
I'd thought perhaps the second warning light pole could be connected to the existing sensor wire but it's the difference in Bar as to when the warning is activated that may be a problem.
The VDO is at quite a lower level than the VW one if I've understood correctly, may be coming on too late after any damage has begun?
As much as I like the look of additional gauges in their own right I'd also want them to be as accurate as possible, hence also going for a genuine sender rather than the one of the compatible (read that as fake) Chinese ones you see.
This is an old post from 'Club GTI'... if it's yours apologies in advance but it seems to indicate theres 2 x oil pressure warning sensors on the 8v engine - read it for yourself rather than me try to explain as I'm still trying to get to grasps with this myself and have maybe misunderstood something -
Club GTI (https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/mk2-89-8v-oil-pressure-switch-issues-please-help.248608/)
The pics below are of the sensor / adapter and old sensor I've got.
Because the VDO sensor is the wrong thread to fit the block I can't check this for sure, but it definitely looks like an extremely tight fit even I could... infact it may not screw completely down due to the angle of the spar on the engines bracket. If that's the case an adapter, to act as an extension would be needed regardless to take it way from the block and stop it fouling on anything.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-e5fba59a-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/5-e22362e3-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/6-aeb23841-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/8-dc060288-960w.jpg)
Famous last words, but I think I'm getting my head around this - maybe someone can double check my thinking?
As per the above link - On a standard 8v GTI there are 2 x oil pressure senders.
One is sited above the oil filter area and the other is sited at the end of the cylinder head (on the passenger side.)
The one at the oil filter operates the low pressure light and buzzer if the pressure should fall below 1.8 bar while the engine is running at around the 2000 rpm mark.
The one sited on the cylinder head only operates the warning light, but unlike the other sender it will activate the light at any time the pressure is below 0.3 Bar.
This will happen regardless of whether or not the engine is running, so includes when the engine is off, but the ignition is at the 'accessory on' point.
This is where it gets a bit grey for me -
It's looking like VDO no longer manufacture (if the ever did) an aftermarket pressure sender where the warning light feature activates at either of the 1.8 or 0.3 bar points the standard VW senders do.
I think this'll mean if you use the second pole on any of their senders to connect the wiring from the VW sender it'll not follow the correct activation points.
Mine is 1.25 Bar so doesn't really suit replacing either VW one and would likely either give false alerts or worse still not activate when it's needed?
Interestingly if you check out VWHeritage's VDO stock there's only one twin pole pressure sender available for the MK2 8v and they go to the trouble of highlighting that it activates the warning light at a higher pressure than the standard sender.
The 6 - 9 PSI quoted by Heritage as their gauges warning point equates to 0.4 - 0.6 Bar... remember the upper mounted VW sender activates at 0.3 Bar.
That makes me think they intend the VDO sender to be fitted into the upper cylinder head point?
At the moment that's where I'm going with mine - Not bothering with the VDO warning lamp... either as a stand alone one of its own or connecting the existing sender wires to.
There's just no need for the VDO's own warning light to be wired up... apart from kicking in at 1.25 Bar which is at odds with the VW settings its only duplicating a warning feature that's already there. Using the cylinder head position also does away with any space issues there would've been if the lower point were used
Instead I'll be leaving the filter top sender as is and using the adapter to allow the original cylinder head sender to remain along side the VDO, retaining it's original warning of 0.3 bar.
What do you think?
Sounds like you have a handle on it. The 2 pole sender I have I lifted from an Audi in a scrap yard. I need to take a look at what markings are on it.
Read elsewhere since that the upper sensor point will result in the pressure under reading on a standard gauge, needs to be the lower one that's used.
Will wait to the engine's able to safely run and try the variables then.
Or I could just f*** it all in the bin and go for these?
(USB looks the part.)
Digifizmini.de (https://shop.digifizmini.de/en/)
(https://shop.digifizmini.de/modules/themeconfigurator/img/ba22bc76ca48abb06c2b99e2e6291c85681fdb88_design-ohne-titel.jpg)
(https://shop.digifizmini.de/modules/themeconfigurator/img/7e24ec16e08ab8d1541984044fa39338ddcb06f7_473965179350164967035407460447790464761856n.jpg)
(https://shop.digifizmini.de/modules/themeconfigurator/img/a741da3a3b6f964af1526fdaeeda3a39072d121f_b651fdb2-0b2a-4005-95aa-ba69dd0a15bf.JPG)
Have to admit, I quite like the USB one
This is a great read! Thanks for this
@L90E Also, don't bin the idea.. stay with it and then we can get the answers and then once I've got my gauges in and working then go ahead to Digifiz haha
Also
@Monkey what would the cost be on a 3d printed gauge bracket?
I would need 3...
Just venting... too much invested in the current set up!
Someones had the same idea about making the brackets - are you able to download the file from here?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176764#Instructions (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176764#Instructions)
Yep, I can print them out. Thingiverse is brilliant for stuff like that.
It's where I got my centre console one from.
I'm actually planning to upload my switch blank up there when I get time too.
By the time I've printed and posted, it would probably be about £10 for a set.
Yep, I can print them out. Thingiverse is brilliant for stuff like that.
It's where I got my centre console one from.
I'm actually planning to upload my switch blank up there when I get time too.
By the time I've printed and posted, it would probably be about £10 for a set.
i'd go for those at that price - my metal bending would be awful, and happy to pay for someone else to do the work haha
Here's one for thought -
As a vague rule most after market temperature gauges seem to either state what they're measuring - 'water'', 'oil' etc or have a little emblem on the face - an oil can or thermometer in water for example.
I've however seen some gauges that simply say Cels / °C or °F if in Fahrenheit.
The upper and lower levels on gauges that are marked as being for oil seem to commonly be between 50° to 150° and 40° to 120° for those marked for water, but you'll find plenty of variations on this, so it doesn't seem to be a firm rule.
I'm guessing it's to give you the scope to fit a gauge with a range that covers most engine types - diesel / petrol, big and small.
The question is - if you've a gauge that doesn't state what it's specifically measuring and it's range suits you're engines oil or coolant temperature ranges can it be used for either (with the correct sender of course) meaning the wording or symbols simply help show at a glance what's being monitored if you've more than one gauge and are effectively the same otherwise?
These are currently on eBay, two different seller names but clearly the same person -
They're branded 'Lucas' but are genuine VDO's and appear to be old stock.
Apart from being a very fair price for what should be quality items (I've no connection to the seller) they might interest MK2 owners because unusually for VDO's of that style they've white needles -
If you are, there aren't many left -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-VDO-ENGINE-TEMP-GAUGE-SIB421-52mm-JAGUAR-MG-TRIUMPH-ETC-FREE-UK-SHIPPING/124223630369?epid=27027522263&hash=item1cec4e2c21:g:p74AAOSwXSZdrKpx (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-VDO-ENGINE-TEMP-GAUGE-SIB421-52mm-JAGUAR-MG-TRIUMPH-ETC-FREE-UK-SHIPPING/124223630369?epid=27027522263&hash=item1cec4e2c21:g:p74AAOSwXSZdrKpx)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-CAR-LUCAS-VDO-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-SIB520-350272018002-FREE-UK-SHIPPING/284147862077?hash=item4228884a3d:g:yigAAOSwOVhgAIs5 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-CAR-LUCAS-VDO-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-SIB520-350272018002-FREE-UK-SHIPPING/284147862077?hash=item4228884a3d:g:yigAAOSwOVhgAIs5)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/yigAAOSwOVhgAIs5/s-l1600.jpg)
Yep, I can print them out. Thingiverse is brilliant for stuff like that.
It's where I got my centre console one from.
I'm actually planning to upload my switch blank up there when I get time too.
By the time I've printed and posted, it would probably be about £10 for a set.
i'd go for those at that price - my metal bending would be awful, and happy to pay for someone else to do the work haha
Sure, let me have a play tonight and I'll see if I can get them printed out ok.
These are currently on eBay, two different seller names but clearly the same person -
They're branded 'Lucas' but are genuine VDO's and appear to be old stock.
Apart from being a very fair price for what should be quality items (I've no connection to the seller) they might interest MK2 owners because unusually for VDO's of that style they've white needles -
If you are, there aren't many left -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-VDO-ENGINE-TEMP-GAUGE-SIB421-52mm-JAGUAR-MG-TRIUMPH-ETC-FREE-UK-SHIPPING/124223630369?epid=27027522263&hash=item1cec4e2c21:g:p74AAOSwXSZdrKpx (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-VDO-ENGINE-TEMP-GAUGE-SIB421-52mm-JAGUAR-MG-TRIUMPH-ETC-FREE-UK-SHIPPING/124223630369?epid=27027522263&hash=item1cec4e2c21:g:p74AAOSwXSZdrKpx)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-CAR-LUCAS-VDO-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-SIB520-350272018002-FREE-UK-SHIPPING/284147862077?hash=item4228884a3d:g:yigAAOSwOVhgAIs5 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-CAR-LUCAS-VDO-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-SIB520-350272018002-FREE-UK-SHIPPING/284147862077?hash=item4228884a3d:g:yigAAOSwOVhgAIs5)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/yigAAOSwOVhgAIs5/s-l1600.jpg)
thats a great price for those
Good morning!
@L90E I have been attempting to get my head around this whole setup.. I hope this is well worth the hassle.
I have installed my gauges, volt, pressure and temp.. volt is reading 12 when ignition on and then just above for when engine running. The temperature gauge is also working as showing temp increase when running..
The pressure gauge though.. it's a 5 bar gauge and when ignition on shoots straight to 5.. is this correct?
(https://i.ibb.co/gRtw6x8/IMG-20210218-212117.jpg) (https://ibb.co/87P2XHw)
I think a 10 bar gauge is more appropriate for a mk2, but I’ll wait for someone else to confirm.
Also can’t really comment on the behaviour of the gauge without knowing the spec of the sender
Unfortunately this is another new area for me so I'm still learning as I go along, also my engine's not yet able to run so I can't test out that side of things as much as I'd like just yet... hopefully someone better qualified will be able to give us a few pointers.
This is my understanding of some of it, again be good if someone can correct me if needed -
The voltmeter is probably one of the simplest to install and also I think genuinely useful.
Take a reading at the battery itself, something to compare the voltmeters own reading to. There'll be a certain unavoidable difference due to for example wiring resistance caused by the distance from battery etc. but should be very minor.
With the igniton on and everything electrical off, so there's no draw from any ancilliaries 12v is fine, it may dip momentarilly on start up etc. but should go back immediately - less than a continuous 12v will need investigated.
With the engine running and therefore the alternator operating the volts should rise to a steady 14'ish (with everything off) if you've a healthy system. Much above that and you may be overcharging which is a problem in it's own right
That's because your alternator is both running the ancilliaries and charging the battery and not just the battery on it's own as before.
Turning on bigger items such as the fan, lights etc. will cause incremental drops, but shouldn't be to below 12v or again it may indicate an issue somewhere.
VDO seem to make 2 x basic flavours of oil pressure gauge, 5 bar and 10 bar, plus their PSI equivalents.
There are different senders for the different pressures (5/10) and different readings (Bar/PSI), you need to have the correct one.
The pressure sender'll have info. pressed into it... if you can post it up I might be able to decipher it and we can take things from there.
The needle jumping straight around without you starting the car should at least indicate the gauge is probably healthy.
So yeh the face the needle goes up seems to be a good start... When I attach the wire to G at back and onto the sender, I use the left hand (white) as I feel that means to sender... Then I plug my MFA to the right hand side (black spade one below)
The sender stays at 5. If I ground the wore from G on gauge to chassis.. stays at 5.. maybe I need to just let it run for along time and see if the gauge drops?
Had read that the gauge can show 5 on cold start..(Belfast is chilly)
And then running about 1-2 when oil warmer... This was rubjohnny on clubgti, and I trust his knowledge.. https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/vdo-guage-installation-mk2-scirocco.281676/ (https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/vdo-guage-installation-mk2-scirocco.281676/)
(https://i.ibb.co/tH66tWN/IMG-20210220-155846.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b6VVZ8y)
I appreciate this is not genuine VDO sender.. however got the sender and single pressure gauge for £30 2nd hand.. so would be ok if it needs replacing lol
Rubjonny is the definitive expert, whatever he has said will be 100% correct, no question.
In itself the wiring is very straightforward, I think if there's going to be any issues it'll be with sender and gauge compatibility (over and above it being for a 5 Bar gauge)
I've quickly Googled your FAE sender and can't find it's detailed spec... this is about as good as I can find at the moment - FAE (http://ecatalog.fae.es/es/)
I was hoping to then try and cross reference it with the VDO specs. on this site - VDO.nl (https://vdo-webshop.nl/en/) to see if it's compatible but there's not enough detail to do that, that I can see.
My understanding is if you want the MFA to operate it'll be in addition to the new gauge and you'll need an adapter to allow the original VW sender to be connected along with your new gauge sender, they work independently.
Your gauge is shooting around to the maximum because it's connected to a live and earth somehow, that's maybe possible in more than one way.
The wire from 'G' on the gauge should only be going to the corresponding pole on the sender, the sender inturn earths itself when screwed in. It's not clear from your image which FAE pole does what.
The positive and negative on the gauge only go to an ignition switched live in this case and a chassis earth.
I'm guessing the 0.30 on your sender is refering to the potential amount error ie. it's accurate to +/- 0.3 bar.
(http://ecatalog.fae.es/files/product/preview/14740.JPG)
At the moment this is the clearest I can find for your FAE sender.
Anyone with better skills than me at reading electrical schematics may be able to say what your 2 x poles are for.
I'm being influenced by what I've found out about VDO senders and that may not apply to other brands.
On a VDO sender one pole goes to the gauge and the other to an optional warning light, the sender itself earths by being screwed into wherever it goes.
Your poles may be a pos. and neg. for all I know and that'd obviously change everything.
Likewise the 0.3 may also be the point the warning light is activated for low pressure and not the degree of accuracy?
Keep us posted, this is something I'm keen to know more about, be interesting and useful to see how it pans out.
(http://ecatalog.fae.es/files/product/preview/14740.JPG)
At the moment this is the clearest I can find for your FAE sender.
Anyone with better skills than me at reading electrical schematics may be able to say what your 2 x poles are for.
I'm being influenced by what I've found out about VDO senders and that may not apply to other brands.
On a VDO sender one pole goes to the gauge and the other to an optional warning light, the sender itself earths by being screwed into wherever it goes.
Your poles may be a pos. and neg. for all I know and that'd obviously change everything.
Likewise the 0.3 may also be the point the warning light is activated for low pressure and not the degree of accuracy?
Keep us posted, this is something I'm keen to know more about, be interesting and useful to see how it pans out.
I don't know whether an image was meant to be included? However I'm going install and then run car with gauge wiring to pole with gauge image... Let the car get to full temp.. I've also ordered a t piece with 2x M10x1 that I also have for the temp sender.. which works fine.
I used your info to try and work out if the sender was for the head or the oil filter housing... Stupid lack of knowledge..
I'll let you know what my findings are bud, us northern Irish kids keeping the world informed lol
Tried making it a direct link to their site but mustn't work on certain devices - hopefully you can see it now...
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/14740-405w.JPG)
Tried making it a direct link to their site but mustn't work on certain devices - hopefully you can see it now...
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/14740-405w.JPG)
Some early morning searching because I have a baby has brought me to this image..
(https://i.ibb.co/Jq2yRvV/oil-pressure.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I know it's not for the model of sender, however the symbology is the same.
Gauge image on my sender to gauge and then the X with a circle indicating the low pressure warning light.. i.e. the wiring to the sender there already?
Maybe I'm wrong.. I'll get some copper washers and install the sender and give the car a good run to see what I get from the gauge
That makes sense to my basic knowledge!
If the symbols on your sender are there to denote which pole is which then they would be mirroring the markings on similar VDO senders.
If that's the case the single wire from 'G' on your VDO gauge will go to the spade with the white plastic base.
The spade with the black plastic base is optional and only to be used if you want to install an additional warning light. If not it can be left unconnected to anything.
The new light if fitted will come on when the pressure is below 0.3 bar.
If you do use it, it will in effect create 2 x independant warning systems, your original VW one and your new senders one, that's assuming you are keeping both by using an adapter that both old and new senders can fit to.
The new sender has its earth when attached to the engine.
If you do go for an extra warning light you'd have to consider does it activate at a similar point to the standard VW one's so as not to be causing confusion.
That makes sense to my basic knowledge!
If the symbols on your sender are there to denote which pole is which then they would be mirroring the markings on similar VDO senders.
If that's the case the single wire from 'G' on your VDO gauge will go to the spade with the white plastic base.
The spade with the black plastic base is optional and only to be used if you want to install an additional warning light. If not it can be left unconnected to anything.
The new light if fitted will come on when the pressure is below 0.3 bar.
If you do use it, it will in effect create 2 x independant warning systems, your original VW one and your new senders one, that's assuming you are keeping both by using an adapter that both old and new senders can fit to.
The new sender has its earth when attached to the engine.
If you do go for an extra warning light you'd have to consider does it activate at a similar point to the standard VW one's so as not to be causing confusion.
Oh right! So the second spade isn't for the MFA!? I had read somewhere you could use it for that? I've also bought an M10 t piece to help.
Now the question for this is I have tested my sender.. earthed the gauge and it went from 5 to 0 so it seems the sender is the issue..
Time to order a new one
I wouldn't jump to any conclusions just yet... sensors are a shocking price and it may be something else / simple to fix.
I'm finding my own way too, you'd be better speaking to someone with experience.
I Googled to see if there is someone local who might be able to help and this popped up... obviously to do with aircraft rather than cars but they seem to deal in VDO senders as part of their business.
They're in Lisburn, for the sake of a phone call they might be able to help / test your existing sender if close to you?
https://www.parts4aircraft.com/ (https://www.parts4aircraft.com/)
I have finally got it to work!
(https://i.ibb.co/fXj46W0/IMG-20210227-082839.jpg)
Sorted out a few gremlins, I'll be honest this has been hassle but the fact its working now is making me realise it was completely worth it!
Good news... what turned out to be the issue?
Good news... what turned out to be the issue?
So I bought a loom off eBay because my knowledge of electrical wiring isn't great.. and the set came with wires to go from gauge to sender and temp sender they also had bullet connector points.. however they were only about 6inches long, so naturally I got more cable and crimped bullet connector and ran through cable to sender.. didn't work.. finally a guy off the Facebook page Del Mahi gave me a call and said about there being one continuous cable through which made me realise.. wait there's a connection point.
Pulled it out the mornings threw away the small wore and connected my wire direct to gauge.
Working fine!
So happy this morning!
Modern cars are missing a trick not fitting (useful) gauges, just adds to the pleasure of owning / driving plus helps avert a mechanical mishap before it happens.
Did you fit the new oil pressure sender to the lower point above the oil filter or the upper point on the end of the cylinder head?
Modern cars are missing a trick not fitting (useful) gauges, just adds to the pleasure of owning / driving plus helps avert a mechanical mishap before it happens.
Did you fit the new oil pressure sender to the lower point above the oil filter or the upper point on the end of the cylinder head?
Mine went in at the end of the cylinder head with a t piece and also the OEM sender.
Need to work out the pressures for 8v PB and make sure all is ok.. now I know the pressure I feel like it could be low 🙈
I think the thing to remember is both pressure and temp could vary from book value depending on various factors. Just get used to how it reads and monitor it from your own base level
Incredibly I'm still waiting for the VDO oil temperature gauge sensor to arrive (due the end of the month).
I was going to wait until it arrived before committing to an adapter so both it and the original VW sender (for the MFA) could be fitted.
In the mean time I've discovered I have the oil filter / cooler bracket from a MK3 fitted, which differs from the regular MK2 one in a few ways including having an additional third threaded port.
My part number is 053-115-417A and the standard part is 053-115-417
(https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/media/catalog/product/0/5/053115417_2_2A120C94-16CE-4452-A74309ECE59B22E2.jpg?quality=80&fit=bounds&height=700&width=700&canvas=700:700)
(https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/116116_x800.webp)
I'm hoping / guessing the new VDO sender can utilise that extra port and avoid the need for an adapter - any MK3 owners able to help?
Just noticed the random image I plucked from the inter-web of a 2 x hole bracket infact has three, one at the front edge!