Back in 1989 I was looking for a car to get me to work and back reliably and swiftly. I was making a return journey from West Yorks to Leigh Lancs daily and my XR2 was smoking badly. Test drove 205 GTi, investigated Honda CRX but couldn't get a drive, drove Corolla Gti and test drove Golf GTi. Golf felt the strongest so the haggling began.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y2e72GH.jpg?1)
I made the mistake of not going for a 16v, thought the usable torque of an 8v would be what I needed, after a bit of haggling a 10% discount and mats and flaps and a delivery date of early September was agreed ( they also gave me a respectable trade in on my dying XR2). The car arrived on time and felt so much stronger than anything else I had driven at the time. But it wasn't great, I had over 20 warranty claims in the short 12 month warranty period. I've lost the records but it definitely used to like to open doors and the boot hatch on the motorway and the drivers seat began to wear through very quickly. It was all sorted for me though.
(https://i.imgur.com/SubO5i6.jpg?1)
I drove over nearly 40k miles in the first 18 months and the car was looking tired, rust forming in joints etc. However I found a job with a company car and garaged the Golf for use at weekends. In practice it spent more of its time in bits having rust rubbed off. Discovered and fixed the rust spot at the bottom of the A post and also rust converted and painted inside the sun roof drip tray. strictly functional repairs the Smoothrite brush strokes are still noticeable today but the rust, on the whole hasn't come back. Also replaced terminals on a large number of engine bay electrical connectors.
(https://i.imgur.com/WJR5m2K.jpg?1)
Driven for pleasure for a number of years not many more miles were added until I took a year out to study then it piled on a further 20K miles. By now it was a very reliable motor.
(https://i.imgur.com/Nzoh4x9.jpg)
Then in the late 90s the gearbox failed, had to pay for a full rebuild but the oil kept showing signs of metal contamination. Having lost confidence the Golf sta for many years only being used occasionally and in 2007 was replaced with a new fun motor. However I kept the Golf.
(https://i.imgur.com/LSEJPD8.jpg)
I started alternating my drive for pleasure cars, one year on, one year off but the Golf kept coming back from the MOT testers with reports of oil leaks.
(https://i.imgur.com/Swx3Otd.jpg)
Also the clutch was juddering a bit, main crank seal leak so three years ago I decided to fix it:
(https://i.imgur.com/S0HkQBN.jpg?1)
Still on with the job but set myself the target of sitting here again next spring:
(https://i.imgur.com/RhjHn1m.jpg)
Gordon, one owner from new, just short of 90k miles, used not abused, never broken into and never crashed.
What a cracking car you have. Mine should look exactly like this but sadly some of it's previous owners have been less than kind to it :( :(
Little beauty........must have a name by now?
Little beauty........must have a name by now?
isn’t the name in the thread title??? 🤣🤣
Little beauty........must have a name by now?
isn’t the name in the thread title??? 🤣🤣
It’s an age thing, I even remember reading it earlier .....reading what?
What a cracking car you have. Mine should look exactly like this but sadly some of it's previous owners have been less than kind to it :( :(
I haven’t posted the now pictures 🤣
Little beauty........must have a name by now?
isn’t the name in the thread title??? 🤣🤣
It’s an age thing, I even remember reading it earlier .....reading what?
I know how you feel. I’d forget my head if it wasn’t screwed on but I know where every spare part I have stashed away is 🤣🤣
You sure it's not a drink thing!
Haven't heard anyone use that expression about having your head screwed on in years, always thought it was a Northern Irish saying?
Gordon has lost a bit of weight recently:
(https://i.imgur.com/2uDPj9d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Aoi7hZa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C2faRv1.jpg)
Should improve the mpg
Should improve the mpg
I guess so, all it had was an oil leak.
Everything worked but everything that came off needed a bit of attention so I kept going.
Now for the tedious bit before I start bolting bits back on. The bits that have come off and have had some attention.
The starter motor, started when it wanted to, or rather wouldn't start for a while when it was most inconvenient. Overhauled it, fit a new solenoid and gave it a coat of paint. Now works fine every time on the bench.
(https://i.imgur.com/acPJfGX.jpg)
A while ago I was posting pictures of the car and I noticed my mud flaps were missing. Very much part of the car they were haggled for new; I eventually tracked them down in a box of old bits. Very rusty in a sorry state with numerous stripped threads I set about rust converting, painting and coiling.
(https://i.imgur.com/9pYeBMD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/txVLAYC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZcO9Yxl.jpg)
I love seeing parts getting refurbished.
Good work on the starter too, too many people just throw away the parts and change out for new.
Bonnet spring and catch, it worked fine but looked a mess, rust removed and plated:
(https://i.imgur.com/3mnSLBI.jpg?1)
It worked fine but it was covered in oil and the green end cap had a hole in it, thankfully no muck had got in. A full set of seals and gaskets have been fitted. Also allowed me to check out the bearings which all appeared good.
(https://i.imgur.com/5o6kosF.jpg)
Worked but a bit sloppy and covered in rust. A new rod was needed as the rust pitted surface would chew at the new bushes. Plated, painted and a full set of new bushes and other plastic moving parts. Now it is nice and precise.
(https://i.imgur.com/5nJMPOE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TVCCFPR.jpg)
Great attention to detail. You are giving
@Damien.wrl a run for his money in the perfection stakes!! :)) :))
Great attention to detail. You are giving @Damien.wrl a run for his money in the perfection stakes!! :)) :))
I don’t stand a chance , the mans got me beat
I had a ticking noise for years, thought it was a tappet. Turned out to be two slightly blowing exhaust manifold gaskets.
A skim, new studs and gaskets should sort it:
(https://i.imgur.com/593pUnH.jpg)
It’s all looking good .... going to be superb when you are done
"I had a ticking noise" made me smile.
I used to have a whining sound but can't hear it when I drive solo.....
Sorry poor humour I know!
I Love Gordon the Golf! :) what a beaut.
I Love Gordon the Golf! :) what a beaut.
Cope ... nice to hear from you , am I a grandad yet
?
Have you been speaking to my missus :)) ::)
Have you been speaking to my missus :)) ::)
What? Really???
Last job in 2020, it worked, one inner track rod joint was a bit sloppy lots of rust and the grease was grim. All sorted ready to go back on. (https://i.imgur.com/feh5HDW.jpg)
Bags and boxes of bits are slowly becoming sub-assemblies again:
(https://i.imgur.com/4CK4swl.jpg)
A car that has been used as a daily for almost 90K miles over 30 years cannot be truly restored. You can remove the rust but not replace the metal that rust has taken away. The only way is to buy new or better.
I'm pleased with these tidied up 30 year old calipers though :)
(https://i.imgur.com/3kseGE3.jpg)
I don't often take before pictures but found this
(https://i.imgur.com/P6brIvE.jpg)
I love this stage in a build, great work!
Corroded bulb holders rust converted and plated. The big stuff is progressing but everything is held up for one or two minor bits. Big stuff in a while.
(https://i.imgur.com/AdZYl9U.jpg)
Half looked at getting into plating things but never progressed it... think it's something I'd like to do eventually, certainly looks to get top notch results.
Half looked at getting into plating things but never progressed it... think it's something I'd like to do eventually, certainly looks to get top notch results.
It’s only the small stuff that I do myself. The bigger stuff, callipers for example, need to go to a good plating shop.
Next week I have my biggest challenge, MK2 rear brake carriers, then CV joints. Anything bigger is difficult in your kitchen.
These had to be done while the kitchen was a plating plant :)) .
(https://i.imgur.com/8nojx1H.jpg)
Cylinder head almost ready to go back on, just need to scrub up and fit the fuel rail and make up a couple of connectors to go between the exhaust and inlet manifolds. It has had new valve seals, new exhaust valve guides and a skim. Also had the exhaust port face skimmed, damaged due to a blowing exhaust manifold gasket.
(https://i.imgur.com/CG3Wsn5.jpg)
It's been so long since I took it apart, I think I have it right. It will be obvious when I offer it up to the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/09BzoFP.jpg)
Take plenty of piccies... I've a feeling I'm going to have to tackle that job some time soon.
Take plenty of piccies... I've a feeling I'm going to have to tackle that job some time soon.
Will do, as I'm not very good at filing receipts the pics will be the only record I have.
OK this is cheating but having wrestled the plastic off the front bumper yesterday to send the metal for blasting there was no way I was going there with the rear when this was sat in the attic. Original in attic just in case I get rear ended at some time in the future.
(https://i.imgur.com/LYKeP8y.jpg)
Take plenty of piccies... I've a feeling I'm going to have to tackle that job some time soon.
Don't delay this job, some of the parts are now quite difficult to come by. The mounting rubbers and clips had to be imported from Greece. The pump screws, pump seal, VAG fuel pipe and VAG filter had been in my attic since last century 🤣. Don't delay the job like I did.
Made plenty of progress this week but mainly painting suspension components and a sub-frame. This small bit is the bit I'm most pleased with; a rusty grease ball rescued:
(https://i.imgur.com/Bq1ufLj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tNAjigR.jpg?1)
There is a cheap and easy way to remove rust on bits like that - immerse them in a solution of water and molasses. Don't laugh it really works and there are a few vids on You Tube to prove it.
I just got a packet of granulated molasses from Morrisons dissolved it in a bucket of hot water then left the rusty item in it for a week or two, longer if needed. When you get the part out it is covered in a slimey residue which easily comes off with a wire/scrubbing brush. You'll be amazed by the results. If you live in the country you can probably get it from a place that supplies animal feed. It's sold ready diluted as an animal feed additive!
The only thing I would say is that the garage smelled a bit wierd!
There is a cheap and easy way to remove rust on bits like that - immerse them in a solution of water and molasses. Don't laugh it really works and there are a few vids on You Tube to prove it.
I just got a packet of granulated molasses from Morrisons dissolved it in a bucket of hot water then left the rusty item in it for a week or two, longer if needed. When you get the part out it is covered in a slimey residue which easily comes off with a wire/scrubbing brush. You'll be amazed by the results. If you live in the country you can probably get it from a place that supplies animal feed. It's sold ready diluted as an animal feed additive!
The only thing I would say is that the garage smelled a bit wierd!
Thank you, molasses is a technique I use for rust conversion, usually for bigger bits that I can wait for, also the speed of conversion is heat sensitive so it tends to be a summer method. I'll be posting my drive shafts soon, they were rust converted in molasses. I get horse feed molasses from an equestrian shop locally. It amuses them when I explain what I use it for, I'm clearly not the horsey type.
For the latch release thing I removed the rust using electrolytic rust conversion. A tub of soapy water, a battery charger and a sacrificial anode (old brake disc). Connect it all up, switch on and the rust melts away and becomes a nasty slime at the bottom of the tank.
@AndyBa Gordon's drive shafts being treated in Molasses diluted with water:
(https://i.imgur.com/FLiDRGR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f9eaKcm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/giFDRBU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pIX15W0.jpg)
How they look now, everything is original except for gaskets, cir-clips, grease and the lock nuts:
(https://i.imgur.com/FYoPYiZ.jpg?1)
That looks great, I'll be off to the local horse shop soon!
Progress: (https://i.imgur.com/PAt9UUo.jpg)
I love it when everything looks so new and shiny.
Great work
That looks awesome!
Hope I can get mine to that condition.
Thank you
@Eddypeck and
@Monkey there has been a lot of sand blasting, rubbing down, rust conversion, plating and painting gone on. My objective is to fix it for the foreseeable so I will only have to do routine servicing in the future.
Honk, honk
(https://i.imgur.com/0axYXQ6.jpg)
Boiling caustic soda did a job here
(https://i.imgur.com/TqkHAh0.jpg)
New paint reacted with old but you can't see it so it's going back on the car
(https://i.imgur.com/FOMxISx.jpg)
Did you refurbish the oil cooler too? You know they're pretty cheap to buy new?
Also, they're prone to failure, that makes it look like your head gasket has gone.
I highly recommend changing it out while you have everything apart.
BTW, love the finish on the rocker cover!
Did you refurbish the oil cooler too? You know they're pretty cheap to buy new?
Also, they're prone to failure, that makes it look like your head gasket has gone.
I highly recommend changing it out while you have everything apart.
BTW, love the finish on the rocker cover!
I did consider replacing the oil cooler. Seen reports of failures on our facebook page. Got one on order now.
The paint is satin black Smoothrite, it is fine with the temperatures. Takes about a month to fully harden though at this time of year.
Thanks for the tip, it looks great, might have to order some.
This was a rusty scratched mess. Had to use MK3 seals; will get it back om the car unscratched before the head goes back on.
(https://i.imgur.com/Oq52hMA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OnPkfSg.jpg)
Edit 13/05/21, don't bother with the MK3 gaskets. They do fit and will seal but they do not compress sufficiently so it is not possible to adjust the pedal position safely. I used the old original and sealed additionally with a smear of Tiger Seal.
I like the finish on the rocker cover. I painted mine with high temp paint but it has crazed in places. I'll try painting with some smoothrite.
I refinished my servo when I had the head off a couple of years ago and I notice its looking a bit tired tucked away from any protecting spatters of oil! Time for some clear Bilt Hambler.
I like the finish on the rocker cover. I painted mine with high temp paint but it has crazed in places. I'll try painting with some smoothrite.
I refinished my servo when I had the head off a couple of years ago and I notice its looking a bit tired tucked away from any protecting spatters of oil! Time for some clear Bilt Hambler.
The cover was quite badly corroded when the the car was still quite new. Rubbed it down, rust converted it, undercoated with Finnegans No1 and top coated with Smoothrite black. It lasted over 25 years but was worn through to the primer in places and marked from repairs. Also the gloss black wasn't authentic.
I flatted it down and refinished it with a couple of coats of Smoothrite satin black.
Splits and cracks repaired with black Tigerseal:
(https://i.imgur.com/pwaO06S.jpg)
I assume you used smoothrite spray on the rocker cover, either that or used a good quality brush?
Gordon is going to look fantastic when you've finished.
Mine will always have that "lived-in" look. Maybe when/if I retire I'll treat him to a full restoration. Meanwhile it's preservation with a few "mods".
I assume you used smoothrite spray on the rocker cover, either that or used a good quality brush?
Gordon is going to look fantastic when you've finished.
Mine will always have that "lived-in" look. Maybe when/if I retire I'll treat him to a full restoration. Meanwhile it's preservation with a few "mods".
I buy the paint in tins then thin it with standard thinners. I spray it using a cheep small spray gun. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tg2-professional-touch-up-gun/
The strange thing is that Gordon will look no different. Only me and the MOT tester will be able to see the effort that has gone in. I consider the effort preservation rather than restoration. I’m going to retake the pictures at the beginning of this thread. 7 years on the car will look the same.
That's not true, we'll know the difference! :)
Struts rust converted, painted, plated and ready as soon as the car has some minor rust spots sorted.
(https://i.imgur.com/ScCnN8M.jpg)
Pre-Thatcham alarm, not the original fitted to the car in 89 but an upgrade in the very early 90s. Didn't work on the car but checked out fine on the bench so back to car to check all the alarm wiring. Then if it still doesn't work I suspect a relay is sticking when under load of 4 indicator bulbs. If that's the case back to the bench and time to get the soldering iron out.
(https://i.imgur.com/rZr3KLv.jpg)
Big day today - the rebuild has begun:
(https://i.imgur.com/kTPDiMc.jpg)
Next bit ready to go back on / in. New flap foam, new seals, greased and new matrix so that bypass valves can be binned.
(https://i.imgur.com/DmmxKTG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/i1bFosa.jpg)
ICE; mid to late 80s style:
(https://i.imgur.com/busilRv.jpg)
The original was full of oil; perhaps
@Monkey you were right about the oil cooler. Never noticed any emulsion under the cam cover though. Anyway after considering dish washer tabs etc I discovered a new one was £9.99 delivered. The pipe had 4 lots of heat shrink applied to stop it fraying further. Not my proudest moment; I want the car back.
(https://i.imgur.com/FgfbfwU.jpg)
The original was full of oil; perhaps @Monkey you were right about the oil cooler. Never noticed any emulsion under the cam cover though. Anyway after considering dish washer tabs etc I discovered a new one was £9.99 delivered. The pipe had 4 lots of heat shrink applied to stop it fraying further. Not my proudest moment; I want the car back.
(https://i.imgur.com/FgfbfwU.jpg)
Can I
I have been after the pink fleck hose for years ... please tell me it came with the reservoir for £10?.
The original was full of oil; perhaps @Monkey you were right about the oil cooler. Never noticed any emulsion under the cam cover though. Anyway after considering dish washer tabs etc I discovered a new one was £9.99 delivered. The pipe had 4 lots of heat shrink applied to stop it fraying further. Not my proudest moment; I want the car back.
(https://i.imgur.com/FgfbfwU.jpg)
Can I
I have been after the pink fleck hose for years ... please tell me it came with the reservoir for £10?.
No sorry, it's 30 odd years old; frayed at each end and and two points along its length I couldn't restore it nor replace it. Decided to preserve it by applying heat shrink tube over the frayed sections.
Starting point for you... red fleck, but perhaps yours was too, before aging.
Seem to do different standard diameters, if what you're after isn't listed a phone call might be the way to go.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-10-9-16-14MM-Black-NYLON-Braided-RUBBER-RED-STRIPE-Oil-Cooler-Hose-1-2-Metre/303405775218?hash=item46a464b972:g:J0AAAOSw96leEl5H (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-10-9-16-14MM-Black-NYLON-Braided-RUBBER-RED-STRIPE-Oil-Cooler-Hose-1-2-Metre/303405775218?hash=item46a464b972:g:J0AAAOSw96leEl5H)
(https://www.dcptuning.com/items/braided-hose-nylon-red2.jpg)
Thanks I have often wondered why it’s pink but it’s definitely not faded red. I have a length of red and a length of plain black in reserve
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXhsGwwB/IMG-0261.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Thanks I have often wondered why it’s pink but it’s definitely not faded red. I have a length of red and a length of plain black in reserve
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXhsGwwB/IMG-0261.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Got some on order. Ill post a picture when fitted. I’m reasonably confident it will look OK.
If you decide to order some search for the correct size. The seller supplies this pipe in more than one size.
(https://i.imgur.com/i1bFosa.jpg)
I've done the heater box a few times now, why have I never thought to put the sponge cover on before fitting? I always fit it upside-down when the whole contraption is back in the car! doh!
Thanks I have often wondered why it’s pink but it’s definitely not faded red. I have a length of red and a length of plain black in reserve
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXhsGwwB/IMG-0261.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I've just noticed you've got all the wrong hose clips.
How can you sleep at night??! :o
A genuine VAG radiator. I was surprised by that but couldn't find a date on it.
(https://i.imgur.com/e9MG4M3.jpg)
Thanks I have often wondered why it’s pink but it’s definitely not faded red. I have a length of red and a length of plain black in reserve
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXhsGwwB/IMG-0261.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I've just noticed you've got all the wrong hose clips.
How can you sleep at night??! :o
I was looking at this yesterday, https://www.hagerty.co.uk/valuation/tool/results/?y=1989&mk=Volkswagen&md=Golf&sm=GTI+Mk+II&b=Hatchback, and concluded that a Condition 1 MK2 could only exist if it had be bought new and stored for the purpose of showing 30 years later. I put Gordon at 2.5
I was looking at this yesterday, https://www.hagerty.co.uk/valuation/tool/results/?y=1989&mk=Volkswagen&md=Golf&sm=GTI+Mk+II&b=Hatchback, and concluded that a Condition 1 MK2 could only exist if it had be bought new and stored for the purpose of showing 30 years later. I put Gordon at 2.5
Jeeze! even condition 4 that puts my 91 at £7k.
Thanks I have often wondered why it’s pink but it’s definitely not faded red. I have a length of red and a length of plain black in reserve
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXhsGwwB/IMG-0261.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I've just noticed you've got all the wrong hose clips.
How can you sleep at night??! :o
I do have some , it’s something I have meant to do for years
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-6AN-5-16-8MM-Black-NYLON-Braided-RUBBER-RED-STRIPE-Fuel-Oil-Hose-1-2-Metre/372878262447
Don't bother, the pipe is steel reinforced and too stiff to make the bend to the radiator.
Glad you said that, was going to buy some.
@Monkey when I get the car back together Ill mock it up so you can see the increased radius. Some may consider it better than plain pipe. It requires a clip larger than the std 13-11 too.
That'll do! I never imagined a rusty bit of pipe would be so troublesome:
(https://i.imgur.com/AfgCALb.jpg)
That coolant pipe was the reason for the first time my Golf overheated. The pipe had rusted thro on one of the tight curves dumping most of the water!
The second time was 'cos I left it running without the aux belt on.... One of the many lessons I've learnt over the years!
That coolant pipe was the reason for the first time my Golf overheated. The pipe had rusted thro on one of the tight curves dumping most of the water!
The second time was 'cos I left it running without the aux belt on.... One of the many lessons I've learnt over the years!
Had that pipe rust through on an Audi. The pipe above though had extensive surface rust years ago so I rubbed it down and smothered it in Smoothrite and Waxoyl. It was beginning to rust again on the welds so it got a make over.
Rust converted, plated and painted:
(https://i.imgur.com/PlUaKhk.jpg)
Looks like new. Awesome
Looks great, did you plate it yourself?
Must confess, I'm tempted to buy a plating kit.
Looks great, did you plate it yourself?
Must confess, I'm tempted to buy a plating kit.
Thank you, yes I did, DIY job in the kitchen.
All original except for the clips, hub nuts and grease.
(https://i.imgur.com/FYoPYiZ.jpg?1)
Looking great!
I take it you changed the boots too?
Looking great!
I take it you changed the boots too?
No I haven’t, I’m not aware that they are stretch bolts. Providing they have not been over torqued they should be fine?
Edit, should have gone to Spec Savers; no they were in good condition. I plated the inner boots and refit them.
(https://i.imgur.com/aotU7B3.jpg)
I've never been impressed by aftermarket boots
Wow! They doo look good!
Every set I've come across look like 5 year old boxer shorts! :o
I read it as bolts too! lol
Replacing the foam in these flaps was never going to be easy. It will have to do.
(https://i.imgur.com/hFS9WmC.jpg)
Significant progress today in the engine bay; should be able to start rebuilding tomorrow :-)
Stripping back to bare metal was never going to happen to this car. I wanted to retain the VW seam sealer sprayed everywhere and we couldn't be bothered to paint it look. By the time I had cleaned up some historic Hammerite with a 6" brush repairs and treated a bit of surface rust it was looking quite blotchy. I discovered that if I mixed black paint to a spray consistency then brushed it on the sealer showed through and the blotches of new paint blended in. It's only now about 50% original paint but I'm happy with the result.
(https://i.imgur.com/GAl2BwL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bXH6yuN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/un4tIZC.jpg)
I tried to do mine -hard to get the shape right then it split as I tried to fit it. That was rather....annoying.... I was probably using the wrong foam!
Yesterday I removed one of the dash speaker covers and found a nice large chunk of old heater flap sponge....It gets everywhere!
I tried to do mine -hard to get the shape right then it split as I tried to fit it. That was rather....annoying.... I was probably using the wrong foam!
Yesterday I removed one of the dash speaker covers and found a nice large chunk of old heater flap sponge....It gets everywhere!
I used self adhesive neoprene foam. Had it a few years so can’t remember where I got it from. Each flap had 4 pieces of foam fitted. I cut a piece of backing twice the length of the foam and doubled it up on the sticky side of the foam. I inserted the foam and doubled up backing then pulled the backing out and the foam stuck in the flap. The 4 joints were glued and the excess trimmed off.
Even Gtechniq C4 couldn't fully bring this back to life. Not to worry it's not brittle, new foam fitted and I'm off to the shed to fit it and all associated bits.
(https://i.imgur.com/obyko3O.jpg)
What is it?
It looks familiar but I just can't identify what it is.
C4 is like liquid gold but it works gr8 on my bumpers.
What is it?
It looks familiar but I just can't identify what it is.
C4 is like liquid gold but it works gr8 on my bumpers.
It's the rain tray for the bonnet vents. Got badly chalked over the years by the sun.
I remember !!
When my car was resprayed that rain guard was also resprayed, I guess you could spray it in Plastikote satin black. (edited typo!)
I remember !!
When my car was resprayed that rain guard was also resprayed, I guess you could spray it in Plastikote satin black. (edited typo!)
That is a cracking good idea; however after the trouble I've had today I'll put that job on my to do later list. Had to work my way through the aftermarket alarm wiring to work out why the indicators were permanently live. Taken all day, the interior and fuse box are a mess but got a 1990s alarm working correctly :-)
..... however after the trouble I've had today I'll put that job on my to do later list. Had to work my way through the aftermarket alarm wiring to work out why the indicators were permanently live. Taken all day, the interior and fuse box are a mess but got a 1990s alarm working correctly :-)
As with the Caddy issue, wiring isn't my strong point. I haven't wired any of the electrical extras I've installed in the Golf yet! Also there is still wiring for parts of my alarm that I physically ripped out when the battery went flat and the alarm went off in the work car park....Thing is I'd lost the fob so couldn't switch it off! :D
Good luck.
Thanks
@AndyBa , job was a pain but it all worked out quite well, 1990s alarm tested, cleaned up and back in position:
(https://i.imgur.com/fGndj2p.jpg)
Alarm wiring harness repaired with new inline fuses (above brake servo):
(https://i.imgur.com/rSr6eFf.jpg)
Inside car alarm wires integrated into mail harness (two orange alarm wires visible)
(https://i.imgur.com/dVRCb3O.jpg)
Closest I'm coming to a drive for some time. Sit in the garden and make GTi noises.
The more I work on this car the less of a car I have.
(https://i.imgur.com/nhFbz3W.jpg)
Those seats look remarkably good no wear on the drivers seat bolsters
scs
Those seats look remarkably good no wear on the drivers seat bolsters
scs
They are good 89K miles and original, actually not quite there was a warranty claim on the drivers seat but the car was less than 12 months old. I was much thinner back in the 90s. Interesting to see if they start to suffer when subject to my aging fat butt.
Was hoping to be driving Gordon this summer but progress has been painful. Just about every connector on the engine harness had become brittle and had cracked; I see if I have some pictures. Also I'm finding trivial surface rust everywhere I go.
Take these for example, steel with rubber gaskets may have been a good idea 30 years ago but they rust and it spreads under the underseal.
(https://i.imgur.com/0pO2EvH.jpg)
Pulled out the interior, cleaned off the rust, rust converted painted, fitted modern VAG grommets and sealed both sides. That should stay rust free.
(https://i.imgur.com/Wmap4TF.jpg)
Quality does scrub up well :D
(https://i.imgur.com/CSWKe2o.jpg)
Keeping things going when every wee job turns into two, then four, then eight is draining... be well worth it in the end!
I'm not going to claim this is progress; I ran out of space to store parts. 4 lumps out of boxes:
(https://i.imgur.com/ByDygKo.jpg)
The troublesome engine bay harness. Old repairs:
(https://i.imgur.com/8zuVSvA.jpg)
Just about every terminal brittle and insulation cracked.
(https://i.imgur.com/QRoRnFm.jpg?1)
Looked like it had been on fire:
(https://i.imgur.com/iJgz3F3.jpg)
Now; I think I got the right bits:
(https://i.imgur.com/w2oJPE2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KEOAcZc.jpg)
Looks great, where did you get the connectors from?
Looks great, where did you get the connectors from?
The connectors are original, the terminals, PVC tube, heat shrink splices (inside tubes now) correct colour coded wires, crimp tool and terminal extraction tool all came from eBay. I can post the sellers later if that helps?
Ahh, no worries, i've already got the bits and pieces.
It just looked like you had new connectors on there.
Maybe got a roasting near the exhaust manifold?
Edd China has a new Youtube channel, think it was the episode before last where he showed how to renovate copper wiring that'd oxidized / lost it's conductivity by dipping them in bicarbonate or something similar, can't remember now but easily got - would be useful in some circumstances where replacing might not possible.
Ahh, no worries, i've already got the bits and pieces.
It just looked like you had new connectors on there.
Scrubbed them in petrol with an old tooth brush.
Edit: that was the ones in the pictures, the really bad ones covered in grease and waxoyl were boiled in caustic soda.
scrubbed up well.
scs
All present and correct. Never intended to touch the interior but with decomposed foam in my heater box and two 40mm floor pan grommets causing early floor pan rot there is not much that hasn't been out.
(https://i.imgur.com/cLPrdxr.jpg)
If I had to choose now, it's the interior that I least like working on - VW screwed it in too well.
Your hands must be torn to shreds after all those little clips and sharp edges but looks like new again, bet your pleased it's finished!
If I had to choose now, it's the interior that I least like working on - VW screwed it in too well.
Your hands must be torn to shreds after all those little clips and sharp edges but looks like new again, bet your pleased it's finished!
My least favorite is underseal, filthy awful job. That is what I'm back to tomorrow.
The interior was not too bad, came apart easily, plastics scrubbed up nicely. Treated all of the plastics to a Gtechniq W5 scrub then sealed with Gtechniq C4. Old style plastic, before recycled plastics, responds really well to C4.
Got a couple of pressing burr cuts when taking apart but they didn't get me a second time once I knew where to be careful.
Did I really intend to scrape off the aftermarket underseal nearly one month ago? It is a horrible job that I didn't want to do. I remember putting it on back in the 90s, it was Tetroseal and thinking one day you will regret this. Every time a jacking point got damaged I just slapped some more on.
It was difficult getting it off but I'm pleased with the condition of the VAG underseal. All of this area was thick with Tetroseal, some of the original damage can be seen where the VAG underseal has been scraped off years ago.
(https://i.imgur.com/CdRltko.jpg?1)
Surprisingly little rust, back with the wire wheels and rust converter this afternoon.
(https://i.imgur.com/KU8iCW8.jpg?1)
Certainly looks like it did the job though... everything's solid and as it should be.
Certainly looks like it did the job though... everything's solid and as it should be.
Yes I'm pleased with it, thinking I'm going to get through this without any welding :-)
Quick update; the rust ran further along joints under the underseal than I expected. However nothing serious, just surface rust.
At long last got some time on the spanners. Front sub-frame is in place and bearing housings are connected.
(https://i.imgur.com/xn2t1Ek.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QWnelBJ.jpg)
Engine now positioned for lifting. The underside that has been causing grief and delays for months. The picture does not do it justice; at least 95% original under-seal.
(https://i.imgur.com/z30C0SP.jpg)
That looks better than new!
That looks better than new!
Thank you, it’s not that good but for a well used motor I’m pleased to retain much originality.
I love the originality … bit of envy
Decided I'm at least 20 years past lifting a box into place under the car. Instead I put the engine on a plank and supported the box on a motorbike stand. Now planing a lift without an engine hoist.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kwp2FJW.jpg)
No pictures right now, enjoying a beer, but lifted it 👍
Big head this morning? I remember the evils of drink!
You're miles ahead of me, but great to see photo's like this... perfect reference material when covering the same jobs, keep them coming.
Debatable I'll be (read that as definitely not) on the road this year, looks very like you'll be though.
Pleased with today's progress. Having to stop now; need to prep the daily for its MOT.
(https://i.imgur.com/68fp4P6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TRRHkQL.jpg)
Big head this morning? I remember the evils of drink!
You're miles ahead of me, but great to see photo's like this... perfect reference material when covering the same jobs, keep them coming.
Debatable I'll be (read that as definitely not) on the road this year, looks very like you'll be though.
No big head, tends to be wine that causes that.
I don't think on the road this year. Probably spring next year.
Today's Golf task, after looking it up on the internet I expected this to be difficult.
Nope, loosen the thingy at the end of the gear selector rod, pop in the hold tool, put the gearbox in neutral. Tighten up the thingy, job done in minutes. Shifting so well, better than anything can I remember.
(https://i.imgur.com/XRDgU45.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u86y1qv.jpg)
And the proper alignment tool too.
You could have used an old ABBA cassette... :D ...thinking on they may become collectable after their 'live' tour!
And the proper alignment tool too.
You could have used an old ABBA cassette... :D ...thinking on they may become collectable after their 'live' tour!
The tool came from eBay some time ago. The seller laser cuts them from sheet steel.
I recon just get somebody to hold and nip it up. Test it, tighten it. Definitely don’t use the Abba cassette.
Had a bad day today, stripped a thread in the bell housing. However ran the thread deeper and ordered some longer screws.
To cheer myself up I put the front wheels on. They look ridiculous, not surprised many of you put larger wheels on. However I’m keeping it completely standard.
Here we go, these would look good on Postman Pat's van. However it's how it left the factory so they are staying.
Not sure about the Avon tyres but there was absolutely nothing sporty in that size, all quiet, stop in the wet, hard wearing tyre things. These are at least popular with MX5 drivers and Avon do describe them as a summer tyre with sporting capabilities. They feel sticky compared to the 27 year old Michelins that came off, fingers crossed.
(https://i.imgur.com/2mPVCeC.jpg)
Think after years of bbs the steelies are a refreshing change, I have a set removed at a dealers when the car was new all boxed up
My car came on steelies like you mine are staying just need to get them refurbished
scs
I like the steelies, the thing that cracked me up is how small they are. Also the tyres, low profile at the time, look like balloons.
Looking forward to driving it again, must be 5 years since it did anything.
How I bought mine…. I made an offer , bloke said “can’t have it for that , but you can have it on its original springs and wheels” result , dropped my offer a bit and got it as Vw intended
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jntw1L10/IMG-0095.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I refer to Vincent Van Golf pictures for reassembly guidance when my own pictures are inadequate or what I’m looking at doesn’t appear right.
Nice car, look forward to seeing him one day.
Thanks that’s such a feather in his little cap … He’s a happy bunny today
It would be so much easier if VW had used Jubilee clips in the factory.
(https://i.imgur.com/v6hDFUc.jpg)
Could be a contender for test your knowledge?
Could be a contender for test your knowledge?
I don't know but if you want use the image here it is finished:
(https://i.imgur.com/RT8ChuF.jpg)
Progress, Gordon has driveshafts:
(https://i.imgur.com/2soHkBa.jpg)
Spent a whole week getting the engine timing right on a a PB engine. In between spanner work I've finished the engine bay harness with wires cut to length and terminated etc. Pictures later.
This is kitchen work, got the keys and fobs together and sorted them out. The alarm fobs are for an early 90s upgrade to the original 89 Gemini alarm and both work. The keys are original and the fobs both from the supplying dealer. I think the set on the right are original and unused. The fob on the left I think came from a very early MK3 that we bought from the same garage.
If you are ever tempted to post your keys on the internet try scribble them out. If anybody can capture the key profiles please advise.
(https://i.imgur.com/auEwWV0.jpg?1)
Good advice!
Good advice!
Yes, even the masking tape didn't do the job. By messing around with the image I could still get the profiles. Only scribbling got rid of them.
MK2 jack and holder. An awful inadequate thing that rips underseal off the floor pan. Later cars appear to have an improved jack, probably a MK3 jack, much better.
(https://i.imgur.com/fFvnnRe.jpg?1)
Just in case
[attachment deleted by admin due to attachment age]
Bay pics soon, going back in today:
(https://i.imgur.com/oeeBjpK.jpg)
Love the attention to detail on the clips
Thank you, the blue and brown clips fit really well. I chopped up a bike inner-tube to protect them from the clip pliers.
The green were a bit troublesome. The opacity of the paint was a bit thin so I had to put loads on. It chipped and looks over painted. Thankfully only one is visible. Will tidy up.
There is much interest in plating here right now. This is my setup, plating 4 slam panel screws.
(https://i.imgur.com/aB0xSqT.jpg)
Black passivate.
(https://i.imgur.com/PH9DF1Z.jpg)
At last some bay pictures, I know
@Monkey was interested, also
@L90E asked me to post reference pictures. I'll point out where I have intentionally deviated from standard, that is mainly on the left and back of the engine. These pictures are the top, front (as best I could get) and the underside.
Top (will take and edit in a better focused picture)
(https://i.imgur.com/badJHQ1.jpg)
Edit, I'll add this as an extra picture, gives a different view:
(https://i.imgur.com/BxHUeBH.jpg)
Front / left:
(https://i.imgur.com/VwXpA8h.jpg)
Underside
(https://i.imgur.com/Lk3TR84.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PSW2UOQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OHMAqMq.jpg)
Have to admire your attention to detail.
scs
Have to admire your attention to detail.
scs
Thank you, the result you see is exactly that, an attention to detail. This car is not like the really impressive restorations others are doing. All I have done is tidied up what was there. If there was rust I rubbed the patch down, converted it and touched it in. If a bolt was rusty I rust converted it and plated it. Most of what you see is original, with the exception of the:
Water pump
Gearbox end plate / cover
Oil cooler
Some hose clips
Exhaust heat shield
Gear mechanism bushes and ball joints
Some bolts
ICV but it is 20 years old
Like SCS said, the attention to detail is fantastic.
You mentioned restorations, but it's very difficult to focus on the details when you're swinging engines about etc.
If I can get mine looking half as good as this, I'll be happy.
Like SCS said, the attention to detail is fantastic.
You mentioned restorations, but it's very difficult to focus on the details when you're swinging engines about etc.
If I can get mine looking half as good as this, I'll be happy.
You will get it looking as good. That plating kit you bought is all you needed. You need black, clear and yellow passivate though if you want to be correct on colours.
The rest of the engine bay.
Left of engine, got rid of the awful orange dipstick:
(https://i.imgur.com/yUgePhO.jpg)
Starter:
(https://i.imgur.com/5T8kZLu.jpg)
Gearbox, note that I have not tie wrapped the bulkhead and inner wing harnesses together on top of the box. I had to shorten the screened cable to the knock sensor so I had to shorten the route for the bulkhead cables. Also took the pressure off the wires to the dizzy:
(https://i.imgur.com/74SXwRj.jpg)
Engine mount, dizzy etc, I have a solid mount but I notice hydro mounts are very reasonably priced. Is it worth changing?
(https://i.imgur.com/jixPmxH.jpg)
Top left / rear of engine. Yes I know I have the wrong oil pressure switch but I figured it would work.
(https://i.imgur.com/jAbDZ63.jpg)
NS inner wing:
(https://i.imgur.com/qKhrqBJ.jpg)
Rear of cylinder head, should those pipes to the heater crossover?
Edit. No they don't crossover, aftermarket pipes are not as good as original giving the impression they are incorrectly fitted.
(https://i.imgur.com/7SyfHmg.jpg)
Tie wraps will be trimmed back when the plumbing and circuits check out as leak free and correct.
This is all next level amazing, great work and attention to detail.
7Zap to the rescue yet again. Pleased with these, original except for the dampers and they are 25 years old.
(https://i.imgur.com/wiAIrs1.jpg)
Note to self, get a better camera, the existing one is not coping with the lack of light in the repair cave.
Noticed this when scrubbing out my rear arches. That is the C pillar and the rest of the car is just as bad. I'm going to get through pads and cutting compound sorting that out.
Strange thing is if I wax it and park it in the sun it looks mint.
(https://i.imgur.com/gGqOTVc.jpg)
Paint correction method sorted, just need an ultra soft microfiber or two or more. Ceramic coat applied, new seal, what a job, and ready to go back on the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/RgVg174.jpg)
Sunroof brfore paint correction:
(https://i.imgur.com/83MbpJC.jpg)
That sunroof looks great, like a black mirror!
You've probably guessed by now, but the reason it looks mint when you wax it is the wax fills all those small scratches.
Unfortunately it's always short lived as the wax can be washed out by regular maintenance washes.
If you've got the paint depth, it's always best to polish out the scratches and then seal with a ceramic coat.
Thank you.
I didn't know wax acted as a filler I just assumed the gloss and a lot of light made the scratches very difficult to see. The process that works for me is:
Wash
Clay bar
Compound with medium cutting pad (DA forced rotation)
Compound with heavy polishing pad (DA unforced rotation)
Polish with polishing pad DA (unforced rotation)
Panel wipe
Ceramic coat.
Apparently 2K black is very difficult to get right. The last problem I have to solve is wiping off the polish. The paint is so soft polish residue on my microfiber wipes leaves very feint lines.
Yes, essentially that's what wax is, a kind of filler for top coat.
It levels out all the pumps and scratches, leaving the panel looking like a mirror, unfortunately it doesn't last long.
Hence the new wave of ceramic coatings changing things up.
(https://images.cdn.circlesix.co/image/2/900/600/5/uploads/articles/wax-56a0fa093a1b1.jpg)
Make sure you are using a waxless polish, you need that panel free of everything before the ceramic coat goes on.
Not sure why your microfibre would be scratching the surface.
Perhaps there is dirt on it?
Have you tried with a brand new one?
Panel wipe gets everything off before ceramic coat.
Yes I'm using new microfiber straight out of the bag with the labels cut off. The problem is referred to as towel marring, the marks are not scratches they are very light hazy streaks. You need a bright light to see them. A soft towel appears to be the way to go to fix this:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing/187479-soft-black-paint-towel-marring-finishing-ability.html
The original spot lamps looked like they had been machine gunned so I ground them back with a diamond polishing pad and finished them with cerium oxide polish. On the last polishing pass on the second lamp it got too hot and cracked :'( .
Hella spots are NLA in RH drive and a decent used set were a long time coming. I bought some aftermarket spots, as a stop gap, but these were absolute garbage. If I had fit them they were so badly fitting they would have broken the grill. Also the beam directing ripples were way off vertical. Couldn't send them back I'd painted the backs.
Solution; glue the aftermarket lenses into the Hella lamp backs ;)
(https://i.imgur.com/SIbOdq2.jpg)
Pleased with this, 90k miles stone battered grill:
(https://i.imgur.com/Cz6n5d2.jpg)
Plastic citrus cleaned and ceramic coated.
Spots original, damaged lenses removed, backs painted, aftermarket lenses glued in
IAM badge polished, painted, new stainless screws, aluminium bars helicoiled
Metal trim, beaten flat, filled, Halfords rattle can, ceramic coated.
Red surround touched in with model paints
GTi badge replaced 1990 after hitting an electrical connector dangling from a motorway bridge. Lasted well since, looked good after a clean and ceramic coat.
Scrubbed up nice. Now I need a front of a car to mount it on.
Very smart looks like its new.
scs
Been having my steel components sand blasted and painted. For the slam panel I wanted to retain as much original paint as possible so I opted for steam cleaning. Pleased I did the amount of rust under the filth and gunge is minimal. Just needs localised rubbing down, converting and painting.
(https://i.imgur.com/if04me4.jpg)
Roman at Steam Cleaning Leeds did a very good job, https://steam-cleaning-leeds.co.uk/
Radiator going back on today.
Its tiring a little, the aluminium is beginning to rot. However it is 22 years old, a genuine VAG radiator and doesn't leak so it is staying.
(https://i.imgur.com/0WRlqf5.jpg)
Damn! I knew I forgot to get something coated!
That radiator shroud looks brand new though, what material did you use on the flaps?
The radiator shroud had bits of surface rust and thick brushed on Smoothrite from previous repairs. I just flatted it, converted the rust. Brushed on No1 primer where required then sprayed the whole thing in satin black Smoothrite.
The flaps are original. Took them off and scrubbed them with a tooth brush and washing up liquid.
I only have space to to spray paint on my drive. Yesterday the wind dropped and the sun came out so I got the last two major components painted, the slam panel and lower cross panel. Objective with both was to keep paint as original as possible; I failed miserably.
At least the paint on the slam panel that you see when you open the bonnet is original, everything else is new. Had to work over some historic brushed repairs but happy with the way this will look on the car:
(https://i.imgur.com/mMUZf7L.jpg)
A couple of things here, bought a new camera because the old one failed. Pictures should have got better but they got worse. It is the size of a match box and the manual is an encyclopedia. Going to have to read it.
Prepared these, the best 4 I could find, to look authentic next to the wings now that my slam panel is close to going back on. Zinc plate, black passivate, having a DIY plating setup really helps with the detail.
(https://i.imgur.com/sGGU8sI.jpg)
There are many more of these with rust pitting, they will be fitted out of sight. All corrosion protected with zinc and black passivate.
Another DIY plating success:
(https://i.imgur.com/ZCeDCQl.jpg)
Has anybody fitted the slam panel with the grill in position. Or is connecting the horn and bonnet pull made too difficult?
Nice bit of detail, 1990s aftermarket alarm bonnet pin. Scrubbed up well:
(https://i.imgur.com/U6t0wCT.jpg)
Grille fitted last. But that was only 'cos I took it off first followed by the lights then the bonnet release when I was fitting the aircon condenser.
I just put everything back in reverse order.
Thought so. I just wanted to fully assemble it :(
Been messing around trying to get the new camera to behave. This picture though I think shows where I want to get this car to throughout. The components bear the scars of use but there is no corrosion, it is all original, and therefore the history is still there.
Not perfect but well cared for.
(https://i.imgur.com/WPDkKvk.jpg)
What picture?
What picture?
You can't see a picture of my lower front panel, splitter etc?
Edit, can you see it here?
(https://i.imgur.com/WPDkKvk.jpg)
I can see both pictures looking very smart. What did you treat them with?
scs
Yeah, I can see both again now. Odd that I couldn't earlier.
Looks great, especially seeing it's well over 30 years old
Thank you.
The panel I wanted to retain the rough VW chip guard. It had taken some nasty whacks and had started to rust. Scraped the rust off including patches of chip guard, rust converted primed with Hammerite No1 then smoothed over the holes with Tiger seal. Not perfect you can see where the Tiger Seal has been applied if you go looking. Prime again with a brush over Tiger Seal, whole panel sprayed in gloss Smoothrite.
Spliter lower edge smoothed with wet n dry. Scrubbed clean with citrus cleaner. C4 ceramic coat applied. Infill trim citrus scrub and C4.
Screws rust converted and DIY zinc plated with black passivate, can’t see them but there is a picture a few posts back.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ck2SrmP.jpg)
I must get some of that black passivate as all my shiny bolts really stand out!
I must get some of that black passivate as all my shiny bolts really stand out!
That’s the reason I got it, looked like somebody had pimped my wheel arch.
It’s actually green, very dark green. If you get green initially you will need to change your concentration of chemicals.
Going back on tomorrow, definitely looking at an April MOT (only about 4 years after I initially planned).
(https://i.imgur.com/sQfoXvo.jpg)
Nothing like a little project creep!
4 years that's more like a stagger. Does look like its 4 years well spent.
scs
Thanks, it only had an oil leak and I thought I would fix it over the winter when it was garaged.
It is a better car for the effort I have put in though. Hopefully only oil and filter changes for a long time :)) .
Bit of progress, Gordon now has a slam panel, radiator and coolant:
(https://i.imgur.com/crpsoT5.jpg)
Looking good!
Have you ever been tempted to remove the wax off the turrets?
Yes, cleaned it off completely, touched in any rust then put new back on again.
(https://i.imgur.com/GAl2BwL.jpg)
I even tried to replicate the factory dribble down the turret. You asking suggests it's moderately authentic. Pleased about that :-).
Your attention to detail is borderline obsessive and I'm 100% here for it!
Been repairing my O/S lighting harness. N/S is fine but O/S was corroded and the insulation had gone brittle. These have previous repairs. Having the engine draw air past them appears to do nothing for their well being:
(https://i.imgur.com/3GIETkr.jpg)
Spliced in new wires, crimped on new terminals and swapped an unused good earth with a bad used earth:
(https://i.imgur.com/aAll1e3.jpg)
Tubed it all (put a new 20mm ID tube over the split factory 18mm tube), fit connectors and installed it:
(https://i.imgur.com/MAntJYJ.jpg)
It's about 4 years since it came out and I made notes but they are rubbish. Does it all just go in the air collection box and connect up? Unsure about spot lamp and indicator connections, thank you.
Your attention to detail is borderline obsessive and I'm 100% here for it!
Thank you :))
Took advantage of the spare time after Christmas and put the front end back on and tested the wire harness repairs.
(https://i.imgur.com/DtIuYz5.jpg)
Just one earth splice wasn't earthed but I did splice one into a spare brown wire cut short at the factory near a factory earth splice. Think I connected to a factory defect. Reworked it and the lights, horns, indicators and alarm are working fine.
Not sure I have the harness routing correct though. If any of you have factory routing a couple of pictures on this thread would be much appreciated, https://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/clubforum/index.php?topic=1243.0 Thank you.
Just read from start to present. Love the effort that has gone into this and eally appreciate the repair not replace attitude. 4 years, not sure how you kept motivatited!
Just read from start to present. Love the effort that has gone into this and really appreciate the repair not replace attitude. 4 years, not sure how you kept motivated!
I wish it were just 4 years, I discovered the original pictures posted at the beginning of the thread, they were taken in 2014. The car saw a little bit of action in 2016, but it has not been used since.
One of the big mistakes I made was starting this in a lockup without power or water, everything has been manual or at best battery tools. Also life gets in the way and our other cars are getting very old and need constant attention, 2003, 2005 and 2007. I still believe I'm on for an April MOT though.
That said the weather is holding me up at the moment, big changes in temperature and humidity are causing condensation. I have to check long-term forecasts before grinding off under-seal. You can probably tell be my tone that my motivation is waning a little?
I know just how you feel.
I had a few days off around November (when we had that little cold snap).
Twice I couldn't be bothered to go to my unit and a third, I got there, walked in the unit felt the cold and then came back out and went home!
I know just how you feel.
I had a few days off around November (when we had that little cold snap).
Twice I couldn't be bothered to go to my unit and a third, I got there, walked in the unit felt the cold and then came back out and went home!
It's not the cold that is stopping me it's the damage to the car. It's cold today but the forecast is for mild and damp weather tomorrow. If I ground off under-seal today I would only get it to the rust conversion stage today. Tomorrow the cold car would condense allover it's rust conversion and I would have to start again.
I need about three days of cold weather or three days of mild weather when the car has warmed up. Looks like I'm off until next Monday.
Ahh, I see what you mean now.
We had a similar issue many moons ago.
We left a small heater on (didn't pay for the electricity) in the middle of the unit.
So if it caught fire, it would be the only thing that burnt.
Came in the next day, it was frozen outside, but lovely and warm inside!
This is one for the future:
(https://i.imgur.com/d8Y7NAo.jpg?1)
I'm cleaning the underside at the back and I know I'm going to need, part or parts of, one of these in the future; both bottom corners are rusting in the joints around the holes for the bumper irons.
Been cleaning up the last bit of underside. Mocked it up today and marked out where not to apply sealer. Ran out of the stuff so now waiting for a sealer delivery.
(https://i.imgur.com/xyNpWXN.jpg)
Didn't know you had a mini too.
Is that one getting the same treatment?
Yes, 1985 Mini City, bought it new, but dumped it in the garden for 20 odd years. That was a bad move, until then it was like the Golf, well used but clean and complete. Now it needs extensive welding. It was my project until I decided to change some oil seals on the Golf.
Hasn't progressed for years but I'll be back on the case as soon as the Golf is finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/vNDug3K.jpg)
Progress. rust removed with a knotted wire wheel, rust converted, primed and top coated. Then sealed with PU sealer.
(https://i.imgur.com/CDh6Jfs.jpg)
I know No1 and Smoothrite is not as good as 2K primer etc. However I have uncovered repairs using the same paints that are at least 25 years old and were still rust free. My DIY paints will do and I have retained about 95% original underseal. I masked where components bolt onto the shell before applying the sealer:
(https://i.imgur.com/EL1ssPX.jpg)
This was one of those only me and the MOT tester decisions. After tidying up the rust and resealing the underside looked patchy in multiple different colours. I had some grey primer that I had no use for so I thinned it and slapped it on to make it all one colour. Missed a trick, I should have bought some off white / buff satin enamel to match the original under seal.
(https://i.imgur.com/90LrruD.jpg)
Better than it was though, time to get on and finish the job.
That looks great under there!
Looking good Phil.
Looks like you've got some "lowered car friendly" car ramps.
If you are attending the annual meet I'll leave a big gap between our cars so mine doesn't look to "weathered" ;D
Those ramps are worth having if you don’t have an inspection pit. Only off road vehicles can climb onto standard ramps; if the clutch doesn’t burst into flames.
Using them for safety in the picture. If the Golf comes off its stands it lands on the ramps.
That looks great under there!
Thank you, but with may attention to detail the wrong shade of grey really chews at me :-\
Looking good Phil.
If you are attending the annual meet I'll leave a big gap between our cars so mine doesn't look to "weathered" ;D
Thank you; yes I have thought about taking Gordon along to the annual meet. Not booked anything as there is a lot that could go wrong once I get some fuel in him and turn the key.
Edit, I haven’t forgotten the glass polishing. I now have the pads. Just need to pluck up the courage and go for it. Ill be sorting the paint and glass once I have the underside and boot finished.
Yes, safety first.
I recently invested in some Clarke axle stands. They have flat feet but the top locking mech is a bit wierd.
I also have some my dad used but they had sharp ends and aren't tarmac drive friendly - they dig in especially on a hot summer's day!
Yes, safety first.
I recently invested in some Clarke axle stands. They have flat feet but the top locking mech is a bit wierd.
Same as those stands I’m using?
Yes. I didn't see that so double safety in your case.
My sight was drawn to the ramps which again I acquired from my dad but used them like you for added security.
edited to make sense!
Took a trip to MK2 Spares yesterday. 4 hours each way was hard work but I got loads of trivial bits that I never thought I would be able to source. Unfortunately I didn't get some of the big bits I needed but I did come a way with a couple of difficult to find, known to fail, bits that I wouldn't be surprised fail when I start the car.
If you are starting a build I would suggest getting a shopping list together and booking a couple of hours with Matt. He works hard to get the quality of parts you are looking for no matter how r-a-r-e they are, https://mk2sparesuk.business.site/
Bodging heat shields, all the used ones are just as bad as my own so I bought a sheet of 0.5mm aluminium and started making up patches. The long tunnel shaped shield is back on the car. This one though is full of holes so I plan to fiberglass the side that isn't seen. Should slow down the rate of rot. Shame I can't weld, could have made a very clean job. Will hide most of the rivets.
(https://i.imgur.com/eo755yx.jpg)
I'm assuming you mean there are holes in the ali heat shields that means the clips securing them have nothing to hold them in-place
edit - checking i'm understanding?
Could you cut circular ali patches which will cover the holes in the ali and allow you to place the clips over that?
@AndyBa yes that is exactly the problem. The clips are steel, add a bit of salty water and galvanic corrosion eats away at the heat shield until there is a hole.
Easiest solution as you say is a big aluminium washer over the holes. That's what I do on the daily. I have old heat shields to cut up, everything holds due to the texturing of the sheet.
Mk2 using smooth aluminium sheet and thick reinforcing washers between the shield and shell is a bit more of a challenge.
This is a good example, well rotted, difficult to secure with a simple bigger washer or patch:
(https://i.imgur.com/SGtLOXG.jpg)
Created a patch for the bottom:
(https://i.imgur.com/IqcoX4J.jpg)
Also for the top to sandwich the rotted ali and rivet onto the good shield, I'll post the finished job.
(https://i.imgur.com/Mp9nYsi.jpg)
I could perhaps have taken a little more care; only me and the MOT tester. However they were scrap and now they fit and hang perfectly.
(https://i.imgur.com/eob3NKU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uwwUdUO.jpg)
I want to fit them but I have a feeling a brake pipe runs over the top of the front one?
@mk24ever these are my answers to some of your questions in the thread Red Rescue. Posting my answers here avoids possibly contradictory advice on somebody else's thread.
The surface finish is wrong and the number of dimples is wrong on the golf ball gear knob in the link you provided; that said if I didn't have an original I'd fit one. Factory original:
(https://i.imgur.com/5nJMPOE.jpg)
My plastic parts are thoroughly cleaned and protected with a ceramic coat, Gtechniq c4:
(https://i.imgur.com/DtIuYz5.jpg)
VW extensively used grade 10.9 screws and some higher grades. These must not be replaced with stainless steel. I purchase 10.9 grade screws to the size specified in 7zap VW https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/golf/go/1989-92/ then remove the modern plating and replace with zinc and yellow, clear or black passivate as the original factory bolts. These are new rear beam screws supplied grey coloured but originally yellow from the factory:
(https://i.imgur.com/5lZkbiZ.jpg)
Edit, I know
@mk24ever you have misquoted me elsewhere but here is a simple overview to put some clarity in to my advice https://leytonfasteners.co.uk/different-grades-of-high-tensile-bolts/
I removed the pins from my rear emblem and secured it with double sided 3M tape. I don't have a picture but the tape is not noticeable.
There is a guide to electrolysis on the forum https://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/clubforum/index.php?topic=943.msg9071#msg9071 . To illustrate my answer to your question there this is a selection of original parts bought rusted from a breaker and now prepared for fitting to my MK2. Electrolysis removed the rust, brick acid removed the old zinc, I plated new zinc and passivated yellow or clear depending on the OEM finish:
(https://i.imgur.com/vibEpuG.jpg)
I think also I have spotted a challenge or two?
Good work with the heat shields, must admit, I need to source a set, someone removed all of mine a while back!
Good work with the heat shields, must admit, I need to source a set, someone removed all of mine a while back!
Mk2 Spares have the bulkhead, front long tunnel and rear most shields. Matt retrieved them for me. They are not as bad as mine but do need work. I decided to put a bit more effort in and restore the originals. Instagram is the way to make contact with Matt.
@mk24ever in answer to this:
"why are you guys putting so much effort in fixing frames ?
wouldn't it be more effective to transform a cl with a good one ?"
Well because we throw salt all over the road we don't have good ones after 30 years of abuse. Also because we detached ourselves from Europe we don't have access to European good ones, Enjoy observing our efforts:
(https://i.imgur.com/TRRHkQL.jpg)
Edit, the s h i t front engine mount had a thread strip out when checking torques so I replaced it with a very reasonably priced Febi hydro mount. Very nice item; if that is it is acceptable to get excited about a lump of metal, rubber and oil?
i had hex head tapping screws (iso 1479) in mind.
in the wheelhouse, they are especially suceptible to rust.
those i take in stainless (uk dealer (https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_TappingScrew_HexHd_No.8.html)).
i had hex head tapping screws (iso 1479) in mind.
in the wheelhouse, they are especially suceptible to rust.
those i take in stainless (uk dealer (https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_TappingScrew_HexHd_No.8.html)).
They are not high tensile so they are fine in stainless. With a coat of satin black paint they look OEM.
My heat shields were full of holes; tiny ones visible when I held the shields up to the light. Also they flexed very easily. To slow the rot and stop them fatiguing and breaking I have reinforced the top with fiberglass.
(https://i.imgur.com/EmReaYW.jpg)
The bit that can be seen when fitted has had a coat of silver Smoothrite. Should amuse the MOT tester :D
(https://i.imgur.com/nNwXmXu.jpg)
Significant progress, the engine bay is finished. I just need to trim tie-wraps and fix any leaks when I start it. Probably a few weeks away now:
(https://i.imgur.com/wpZc8Gz.jpg)
Back on with the Golf this week. Been working out what OEM bends on the brake lines may have looked like. One of my efforts from years ago was not far off.
(https://i.imgur.com/QfPROp7.jpg)
I remember doing the same job circa 18 years ago. My bends are probably worse than your's.
The Golf failed its MOT and true to form it was bitter cold and to do the job I put the car on axle stands on the drive....NICE!
Really struggled getting the nut undone due to its position. Best tip someone shared to get the old ones off was to cut the pipe and use a socket.
A fraction too long but I can sharpen the first bend a little. That is a mock up to make sure I can get the bends and then to test the fit on the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/buqF38c.jpg)
@AndyBa that is the pipe bending tool that I mentioned yesterday. Working over the diagram I can get the bends quite close.
Working with two 2 m lengths of straight pipe in the kitchen that is as good as it is going to get. Now to fit them to the car. The front joints will be flared on the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/WoABuEN.jpg)
I remember doing the same job circa 18 years ago. My bends are probably worse than your's.
The Golf failed its MOT and true to form it was bitter cold and to do the job I put the car on axle stands on the drive....NICE!
Really struggled getting the nut undone due to its position. Best tip someone shared to get the old ones off was to cut the pipe and use a socket.
I put a smear of grease on the threads. If you keep it off the pipe end it can't get into the brake fluid. Never have any problems removing pipes fitted with a bit of grease on the threads.
Stubborn ones, yes snap off the pipe and get a 6 side socket to it. If you want to save the pipe a 6 side pipe spanner does a good job.
Finalised my wiring at long last; as near to factory as I can get it but including 1990s aftermarket alarm:
(https://i.imgur.com/FACLuSA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BBvrd8p.jpg)
Is it really 2 months since I progressed Gordon? If I don't get a move on he won't be seeing action this year.
He had a welcome back surprise for me; a coolant leak from up the back of the engine. I've pressure tested the system and there is a leak from the radiator top hose at the cylinder head flange but I can't see how the coolant gets from there to the back of the engine? Any ideas?
(https://i.imgur.com/JesLybQ.jpg)
Now getting on with the painful job of bending brake pipes. I have OEM bends in pictures for all pipes (shown in service manuals etc) except this one, shown here is yesterday's efforts.
(https://i.imgur.com/64iHWmZ.jpg)
Not happy with it though, it gets a bit close to the floor pan and could trap air. Anybody still got OEM pipes and got a picture? Thanks.
I had a leak on mine from that flange and it made such a mess. It would puddle on top on the gearbox and then drip down off the bottom of bell housing. Has the coolant crystallised? Should leave you a path back to the leak as proof?
Bugger about the coolant leak, as Ian said, it usually tracks around/through where the gearbox meets the block.
I too have been doing brake lines this weekend, think I have the original one of those, if I recall, it's just a 'C' shape.
I'm down the workshop this week, I'll grab a photo for you.
Not had access to the PC this week, my wife is studying. As a result though made quite a bit of progress with Gordon;
All brake pipes on
Heat shields on
Exhaust on
Rear axle on
I'll have to get some pictures today.
After a Facebook debate I settled on the following pipe bends:
(https://i.imgur.com/zDREzZj.jpg)
The only coolant leak I found was caused by mould flash:
(https://i.imgur.com/TqmZNcg.jpg)
Cleaned it up and fixed the leak but I still have coolant under the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/QyAuLhI.jpg)
I don't know where it is coming from, can't find another leak anywhere.
I was going to scrap my fuel tank because the filler earth had rotted away. I visited MK2 Spares and discovered that every 30 year old tank is rotted at this earth.
So I got my soldering kit out. It would be neater is I was doing the job a second time, but I'm pleased with this:
(https://i.imgur.com/eyF28Au.jpg)
Probably on for my first start in 5 years next week :-)
Nice repair 👍🏻 goodluck with starting it up, hopefully that coolant leak is sorted too 🤞🏻
Fitted the fuel tank today, checked the immobiliser and turned the key. Nothing, if I turned it further it would crank the engine. Nothing from either fuel pump. Ah well back tomorrow with a multimeter. Interestingly the fuel gage responded.
What I can’t find is a PB engine fuel pump wiring diagram.
Anybody got one?
When you turned the key, did the lights come up on the dash?
@Monkey yes everything came up. Been back with a multimeter. No voltage at the pumps, earth was fine, traced the problem back to the fuse box. I don't know how this can happen but the fuse was good but no current passed it. Unplugged it, plugged it back in and both pumps came to life. After cycling the pumps several times fuel arrived at the fuel rail, bled 1/4 liter to get any muck out.
I changed the oil. switched the fuel off and cranked for oil pressure. Fuel back on and:
https://youtu.be/trWR08e3ITs
Got it up to temperature, thermostat opened fine, radiator fan fired up. Heater was volcanic. Slight leak from the diff drain plug but looks dry elsewhere, oil, fuel and coolant appear good. Goes through the gears OK. Brakes, paint correction and setting up of engine and steering geometry over the next few weeks then it is MOT time.
Happy days, glad it was a nice easy fix.
Seems like this is getting really near, its good to hear it running too 👍🏻
Seems like this is getting really near, its good to hear it running too 👍🏻
Thank you, when it started it sounded like somebody was hitting an oil drum with a big hammer. I only recorded it idling when I convinced myself it was normal.
I've had the very same hydraulic tappets on two diesel engines that together clocked 400k miles. It is amasing how diesel knock hides tappet rattle. Petrol engines are very quiet by comparison.
Today I paint corrected the boot floor pan. To claim to have corrected it it is a bit of an over statement but it did end up quite shiny. Just checking the tools and compounds for the shell. May get pictures tomorrow.
A couple of days ago I decided to tidy up the boot so that I could store the car cover and make a start on paint correction. I'm still at it! Treating a small number of minor rust spots and repairing this;
(https://i.imgur.com/ZLbY4we.jpg)
Probably the least fit for purpose part on a MK2 over the years it has been broken repeatedly while removing shopping and as a fix at some time in the past it was glued to the car with black silicone. I've made missing bits out of a ready meal food container and strengthened the underside with black Gorilla tape.
The interesting thing is I feel that repairs like this detract from the originality of the car, like also the fiberglass reinforced heat shields or the wrong but superior design bungs in the floor pan. Do I call the car original or restored? Edit or maintained?
This is how the boot turned out. VW weren't exactly careful with the paint, I've managed to retain that uneven factory look:
(https://i.imgur.com/JzGHB2s.jpg)
I was checking out my tools and compounds for a much bigger job. This is the O/S c-post:
(https://i.imgur.com/P69VO13.jpg)
My efforts won't be quite as good as a pro but I'll very much improve on that. I've got 32 years of care scratches over the whole car, I think it will take about a week to sort it.
A couple of days ago I decided to tidy up the boot so that I could store the car cover and make a start on paint correction. I'm still at it! Treating a small number of minor rust spots and repairing this;
(https://i.imgur.com/ZLbY4we.jpg)
Probably the least fit for purpose part on a MK2 over the years it has been broken repeatedly while removing shopping and as a fix at some time in the past it was glued to the car with black silicone. I've made missing bits out of a ready meal food container and strengthened the underside with black Gorilla tape.
The interesting thing is I feel that repairs like this detract from the originality of the car, like also the fiberglass reinforced heat shields or the wrong but superior design bungs in the floor pan. Do I call the car original or restored? Edit or maintained?
Mine completely disintegrated when I bought the car.
I did think about masking off the area and spraying black bed liner down
Though I can see that looking very bad, very quickly.
Sure there is a guy reproducing these with a thicker plastic
So far mine is mainly intact but regularly "twangs" when getting stuff out.
So far mine is mainly intact but regularly "twangs" when getting stuff out.
While it is in one piece (must be a pretty r a r e beast) I'd take it off and reinforce the back with black Gorilla tape. Carefully cut out the holes and you can't see it. Mine feels bomb proof after repair and taping.
The last barrier to getting Gordon back on his wheels and moving:
(https://i.imgur.com/wIRlPud.jpg)
The repair kit contains more seals and components than I have found in the caliper. Has anybody got an exploded view or rebuilt their rear calipers recently? Thank you.
Found this video, I think some of the seals supplied are for later generation calipers like the one shown https://youtu.be/YHPX8lEHFKs
It looks like I only use 5 seals from the kit:
(https://i.imgur.com/UR60mcF.jpg)
Any cleaver ideas for getting that circlip in?
Unbelievable effort required to fit a circlip:
(https://i.imgur.com/yBnpiIj.jpg)
Wow, impressive idea, I just used a modified pair of circlip pliers and a lot of swearing!
Not an easy job, need to get them on the car now and see if they work and not leak:
(https://i.imgur.com/qopZZaU.jpg)
Wow, impressive idea, I just used a modified pair of circlip pliers and a lot of swearing!
Surprised you managed that. The circlip was easy to fit if I didn’t include the hefty spring that it retains. The press was to compress the spring while I got the clip in place. I couldn’t compress the spring by hand.
If I ever have to do it again, I'm just buying a new pair from Autodoc or somewhere!
Oh man that looks a struggle, well done. Giving me the fear, I've just replaced a damaged caliper with a cheap AutoDoc one to get the car back on the road but also bought the seals to refurb the old one... Looks like it might be a challenge lol!
I admire the effort you've put into these calipers but I'm definitely going to continue to buy remaned ones in future!
Oh man that looks a struggle, well done. Giving me the fear, I've just replaced a damaged caliper with a cheap AutoDoc one to get the car back on the road but also bought the seals to refurb the old one... Looks like it might be a challenge lol!
Yes it is a challenge, somebody on the Facebook group managed this job with the rear wind back tool. Didn't try that myself, tried a front wind back tool but couldn't then see what I was doing with the pliers.
I admire the effort you've put into these calipers but I'm definitely going to continue to buy remaned ones in future!
They are on the car, no leaks, parking brake holding (surprisingly firm); unless they fail, never again. That is exactly what I expect. the car is only insured for 1k miles per year and as I'm in my 60s I don't expect to go there again.
Gordon on the move for the first time in years:
(https://i.imgur.com/sCM8vIC.jpg)
Edit, he has a slight pooping moose look. Hopefully the front suspension will settle, I think I made the mistake of torquing up with the car on stands. These are things I can now sort out easier. I have a flat garage floor, power, water, compressed air and access to all of my tools. Shouldn't be long now :-)
Looking good!
Can't be long now.
Looking good!
Can't be long now.
Paint correction and ceramic coat
Glass scratches if I’m brave enough
Set up geometry
Set up head lights
Investigate squishy brakes, perhaps they were like that?
Takle some surface rust inside where the rear bumper goes
Fit arches, rubbing strips, flaps, rear bumper, roof gutter etc
Squirt preserving wax every where
Book pre MOT and MOT.
Can’t wait running well and sounding factory. Edit. Didn’t get it of the trailer before it was complemented and me asked if it would be for sale.
Everyone loves a classic!
As for your brakes, pretty sure it's because everything is brand new.
While I was testing mine on Sunday, the first couple of presses were bloody awful, thought I'd got something wrong.
But after a few laps around the storage yard, they started responding.
Everyone loves a classic!
As for your brakes, pretty sure it's because everything is brand new.
While I was testing mine on Sunday, the first couple of presses were bloody awful, thought I'd got something wrong.
But after a few laps around the storage yard, they started responding.
The brakes are not quite all new, all calipers rebuilt, new master cylinder, new brake regulator valve, new pipes and flexes. Discs and pads were about 25 year old genuine VW with very little wear so they went back on. What I can't be sure of is that I got the pads and discs matched correctly so I may have bedding in plus to do. Also I'm bleeding out diluted red rubber grease in my fluid so a few more bleeds to go. Fingers crossed.
On with paint correction today. This is the O/S C post but most of the car is in this state:
(https://i.imgur.com/P69VO13.jpg)
It is a mess so I decide to make a cut with an aggressive pad. It was still scratched so I made a cut with a less aggressive pad. Scratches almost gone so I made a third cut with my least aggressive cutting pad. There is just pad marring to polish out.
(https://i.imgur.com/jLt179C.jpg)
I only made one polishing pass, there is still some marring but that is good enough for me:
(https://i.imgur.com/9nnWpPJ.jpg)
Didn't want to take anymore paint off:
(https://i.imgur.com/gp6MU2U.jpg)
I'm no expert, I just watched this and got on with it:
https://youtu.be/9JTxGf2Lvp4
Looking good inside but the outside is driving me nuts, I get a finish on the paint I'm happy with then ruin it with towel marring. The good news is the panels that are already ceramic coated are holding out. So I think I need to paint correct, final polish, ceramic coat.
(https://i.imgur.com/c1c6Kod.jpg)
Edit, in addition to waging war on paint scratches I've fitted a new VW N/S roof gutter and a new check strap seal on the same side.
I don't suppose this one will be making an appearance at the national meet?
I don't suppose this one will be making an appearance at the national meet?
I've got this thing about MK2s, don't get me wrong there are lots of reasons to like them, they are not lookers. A line up of them does nothing for me so probably not.
I much prefer working on them and driving them.
Somebody said "it is all in the detail". Detail takes time as I'm finding out. This one side of the car has taken all day.
(https://i.imgur.com/w8WpqVF.jpg)
I had to resist the temptation to put the arches and rubbing strips on. Forced myself to be patient and get the ceramic coat on first.
Well that will be one less immaculate Golf to shine against my less than perfect example!
But seriously it will be good to see you there and talk about Golfing with fellow enthusiasts.
I'm afraid Mr J 833kly will be only getting a wash and hoover before the show and no doubt arrive with plenty of flies splattered on the grille and screen showing warts and all (I found a hole in the inner sill at the weekend, oh 8u99er)
Hopefully I will be towing a bit of noughties habitation too if the clutch doesn't give up!
edit. Can @Eddypeck and I have a Best hybrid working (latest work in phrase) daily class in the Show and Shine....kidding!
No I will not be at the National Meet, that sort of thing simply does not push my buttons. I considered Harewood which is very close to me but the tickets are silly expensive to allow others to have a look at your car.
I may consider a VW meet at the Motorist but that’s as far as I’ll go.
Edit2, or perhaps a charity run.
Edit, I think to understand the reason I’m reluctant to be a Golf enthusiast you have to look at the reasons I bought the car. It was bought for practical reasons, to commute quickly and safely over the M62. It did that admirably clocking 40 odd thousand miles in the first 18 months. It was a car to respect in its capabilities and build quality but it was also fun to drive. That’s the reason I kept it. Enjoyable retro driving is what I want from the car now.
I didn’t buy it because I wanted it, I needed it at the time and grew to like it and kept it.
I'm a bit stuck today, I wanted to work on the O/S paint correction but it is raining so I can't get the car out to move it across the garage. So having a bit of a sort out and looking at the odd ball jobs.
I noticed in a recent photo that the rear light clusters were scratched much like the paint. So I decided to find out how they would respond to a machine polish and ceramic coat:
(https://i.imgur.com/ty2QdOl.jpg)
Pretty well actually, the picture fails to capture the gloss but you can see it is reflecting my storage racks.
Cleaning off black trim products; yuk, what a job. O/S gutter and window seals made this mess:
(https://i.imgur.com/3RxYkyS.jpg)
I think they look better clean:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ix1HUZm.jpg)
Sneak the sponges back in the kitchen, the Mrs will never know!
Polish splatter in there drives me nuts. A squirt of quick detailer. slop it around with a brush, wipe off with a bit of wash up pad :D .
(https://i.imgur.com/oTMQddR.jpg)
Sneak the sponges back in the kitchen, the Mrs will never know!
Nope, that would be too much. I'm allowed to plate parts in the kitchen and dry my polishing pads in the fan oven etc but those pads would be too much.
(https://i.imgur.com/iy5tOdD.jpg)
you are on slippery slope of not wanting to use the car unless the weather is perfect
you are on slippery slope of not wanting to use the car unless the weather is perfect
I'm not sure I said that but I'm not going back through the thread to check, however I'm sure Gordon will not be getting wet too often. The leisure and pleasure car that I bought to replace him 15 years ago has only had its wipers used twice, other than to shift insects.
What's at the bottom of the slippery slope; if I'm not there already?
Last thing yesterday my bodywork and paint luck ran out. I've approached all of the regular rust spots expecting trouble. Other than the issues I was aware of I've found nothing, no welding needed.
After the final polish of the bonnet I noticed a pin prick of a stone chip. The paint around it appeared to be lifting and what looked like tin worm burrows were running left and right. Out came the scalpel and I scraped away the paint to reveal rust. It is treated and primed so will not get worse. Look at this though in the middle of the leading edge of the bonnet:
(https://i.imgur.com/oGarjT3.jpg)
What a bugger!
Could you fill it with paint and then flatten back to hide it?
What a bugger!
Could you fill it with paint and then flatten back to hide it?
I'll look into hiding it, probably get a Facebook question up and see what the options are. There are some 2K resins in paint code colours that you scrap in and flat back. Ill finish the car and get it mobile. may need pro help.
I used one of the mobile paint people. They made a good job of it
The product description indicated that it may need reaming. May was a bit of an understatement, a press is unlikely to have forced the pin in!
Bought a reamer and now have two hinges with tight fitting pins that can be pushed / forced in by hand. I think that is correct.
I understand though that the top hinge is almost impossible to replace?
(https://i.imgur.com/wQqZhSg.jpg)
Hi Phil
Don't you have a local engineering workshop that can do it for you?
Hi Phil
Don't you have a local engineering workshop that can do it for you?
Working on it; I could do with a local engineering shop, Think I may have found one a few miles north at Leeming Bar.
Not needed for this job though, the £7 reamer delivered off eBay did the job
I thought the plating was over (until I start work on the Mini):
(https://i.imgur.com/JwJNGUt.jpg)
It is now.
Ok, so I see
4 boot strut points
4 number plate light fixing screws
4 boot plinth screws
But I can't work out what the two m5s are for.
The hatch lid wasn’t the only place I’d overlooked a couple of screws. They are door handle retaining screws.
Ahh! I did wonder!
The starter has been sounding awful when cranking so I decided a make a short video and ask for opinions. Fuel turned off, that sounds fine to me? Not sure what changed but it upped it's game for the camera.
https://youtu.be/lv-fpnalEqE
Used a spray gun on a car body for the first time today. Painted loads of components but this is my first time on the car. Consistent with me regarding this car as maintained rather than restored, I use Hammerite products on the underside, in the engine bay and. as here, under the bumpers:
(https://i.imgur.com/joZYsNC.jpg)
The small hole is something I did when the car was just months old. Many cavities under the car were filling with water so I checked Haynes and found that VW had sealed over the drain holes. I cleared all the drain holes but used a drill from the underside on this one. I damaged the outer skin so put a hole through from the outside and put a grommet in. That grommet is going back in, nice when you know the history.
Bump, previous post, does that MK2 starter sound right. I've got used to stronger sounding starters.
Re the starter.
I replaced mine with a fully recondioned MK3 version which doesn't rely on the brass bush. Sounds so different. When I took the old one out you could freely wriggle the drive in its bearings. Nice upgrade and only £50. Fitted it just looks the same as the original.
@AndyBa thanks for the reply. I think the starter that self supports the pinion is what I’m familiar with. They sound much better.
However if the sound is correct and period I’ll stick with it. Does it sound right?
When you think you are almost finished but decide to look under XYZ:
(https://i.imgur.com/wg25nQE.jpg)
Shame the tailgate let the side down. Car is coming together nicely elsewhere:
(https://i.imgur.com/yZdqo9k.jpg)
Any idea why the latch bolts, all 6 of them, were painted pink at the factory? Mixed the correct shade and slapped it on factory style:
(https://i.imgur.com/ywnH8P2.jpg)
I asked the pink bolt question on Facebook, there is always a good response there. I was expecting torque wrench spots, warranty work confirmation, QA checks etc. I turns out that these pink bolts are quite r a r e, presumably because it wares off? The debate turned in to one about whether these were painted or not. One suggestion was that my car was a Hello Kitty edition :)) . No it's not, they were pink on my car and there is enough posted on Facebook to support that they should be. The reason though is not conclusive, it is thought VW QA marked items pink when the had been safety checked.
When I finally get my car to a meet I suspect the pink bolts will be spotted and questioned:
(https://i.imgur.com/no7cyI0.jpg)
It's going to be spring 2023 for the MOT. Too much hidden surface rust on the tailgate. Spraying creates lots of rework. Probably have it finished in October but then I'll just put a cover over him.
(https://i.imgur.com/0GiQlgn.jpg)
Question. what would I use a borescope, plug on tap shower pipe and Dyson for?
(https://i.imgur.com/JYhbEDu.jpg)
My guess is you dropped something down the tailgate?
Yes. I thought the little plastic pin that secures the parcel shelf "hanger". Bet it was covered in melted wax goo too.
Yes, expanding pegs for the for the parcel shelf hangers pushed inside the tailgate then stuck in wax. No amount of shaking would shift them.
Located with scope, pipe positioned guided by scope, attach Dyson, flick Dyson on and watch peg disappear. Repeat and collect two pegs from Dyson.
(https://i.imgur.com/YN4lnLj.jpg)
Now that they are out and looking at the design it may be possible to push the peg right to the end of the pin without it falling out. Then remove the peg with the pin still attached.
Think thats the same with the door card fixings and the bonnet open stay fixing.
Yep, right little PITA, those things!
Whilst we are on the subject of the plastic "pins". The ones on my seat rail covers have gone AWOL. Any thoughts on where I get replacements?
Thinking.....kite spars may do the biz if I haven't binned the old kites!
Whilst we are on the subject of the plastic "pins". The ones on my seat rail covers have gone AWOL. Any thoughts on where I get replacements?
Thinking.....kite spars may do the biz if I haven't binned the old kites!
Mine are missing too Andy, my covers are just sitting lose. Let me know if you find any or buy some spares 👍🏻
A tip for anybody wanting to reuse their original screen rubbers. These were solid with rust and no amount of scrubbing or scraping was going to shift it.
Brush phosphoric acid in there and it dissolves in a flash:
(https://i.imgur.com/AtBKIqX.jpg)
Whilst we are on the subject of the plastic "pins". The ones on my seat rail covers have gone AWOL. Any thoughts on where I get replacements?
Thinking.....kite spars may do the biz if I haven't binned the old kites!
My seat rail covers are secured by a chunky self tapper.
Glass etched with the reg number, a 1980s security feature to make the car less likely to be stolen for parts. Got a frame for it ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/DGGtHmL.jpg)
That nut for the wiper arm needs plating. Does it just spin off or do I need to hold the other side?
If I remember correctly you can just undo that nut. I believe the motor is held in-place with 2/3 bolts on the other side.
Probs worth putting some Lube on the outside whilst you have the arm off. My rear wiper rusted-up and stopped working a few years ago.
Yeah, you can just pin that one off. Should be fine,
And now I have something else I need to plate too!
A Facebook group member has asked for details of standard PB engine bay wire routing. A small number of routes are very slightly out of position but they are as close as I could get having shortened some wires. Posted here so the pictures are not lost in Facebook history:
(https://i.imgur.com/3K4SC6C.jpg)
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