Rallye Track Basher

Come and show off your ride here!!
User avatar
Monkey
Site Admin
Posts: 2693
Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2010 12:42 pm
Drives: VWs, lots of them!
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby Monkey » Thu May 23, 2019 8:19 am

Damien.wrl wrote:Blue and cream , brown interior ......stunning , unless Monkey paints it


I'll have you know I'm a master painter...or something like that.
0 x
Mk2 Driver
Mk2 Silver 8v
Corrado G60 Turbo
Mk2 Red 8v
Mk2 Grey 16v
Mk2 BBM ABF
Bora 20vt
Mk2 Green VR6
Mk2 Green ABF
Mk2 BBM 20vt
3.2 TT Roadster
Mk2 Red 16v
225 TT Coup
3.2 TT Coup

Mk2 BBM R32
Mk4 Anni Derv

User avatar
TomRich
Dub Ninja
Posts: 1638
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:35 pm
Drives: Golfs
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby TomRich » Thu Aug 08, 2019 9:40 pm

Made some progress with the sealant removal and seam welding.

I have a bin bag here full of all the sealant removed, less the dust that got away obviously, although I did hoover / sweep up as much as I could and added it to the bag. I've another bag with some brackets, sound deadening mats, interior sealant etc, and together they feel like they're getting on for 20kg easy. Once I've gotten the last few bits I'll weigh it properly.

edit. The underside came to 11kg and the remainder from wheel wells and inside was about 7kg.

While I'd have loved to have gotten the shell dipped, and it's certainly time / cost effective, but I'm not sure anything would have come back afterwards if this heap got dipped, which was the main reason for not doing it :oops:

I chipped away at it over some lunch breaks, did a bank holiday Monday on it, and Trav came and helped out a few times which is a big help as always :thumbs:

So yeah, almost bare and almost fully stitched up. The welding is measured out at 20mm on, 30mm off for the most part. Handy tip, I cut a length of heavy duty white cable tie and Sharpie'd a gap either end with the length to weld in the centre, which makes it super fast and easy to mark out. This lets you keep it pretty uniform and saves any time wondering where or how far to weld.

Image
Image

There's a few extra bits to weld up on the Rallye over the normal shell. Not that I'll be using it but I welded up the rear diff mounting points for future use so the shell is ready to rock if it ever goes back to AWD.

Image
Image
Image

I tried to keep it tidy, but it's hard going... :lol: Without the joy of shells which have never seen underseal, as factory teams did, a 30 year old production shell with underseal in between every seam makes it a welding nightmare :roll:

Image
Image

It's all stuck and it's only for beefing up, not to look pretty :smile:
Trav and I finally got the thing flipped over to do the remaining bits, which was a bit dicey as the rotisserie is solid but pretty wobbly, but I'm gonna make a shell dolly when I get some spare time once the underside is finished so it can sit on that until it goes back on it's wheels.

Image

Also looking more and more doubtful that 15's are going to do the job - VW used 17" wheels on tarmac spec Rallyes - but that's a story for another day, will get the shell up together first.

Should hopefully have some more soon, cheers :bout ye:
Last edited by TomRich on Mon Sep 09, 2019 8:32 am, edited 4 times in total.
0 x
Image

User avatar
Monkey
Site Admin
Posts: 2693
Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2010 12:42 pm
Drives: VWs, lots of them!
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby Monkey » Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:06 am

Good to see the progress on this one, Trav is great at helping out with old mk2 shell prep! :D
0 x
Mk2 Driver
Mk2 Silver 8v
Corrado G60 Turbo
Mk2 Red 8v
Mk2 Grey 16v
Mk2 BBM ABF
Bora 20vt
Mk2 Green VR6
Mk2 Green ABF
Mk2 BBM 20vt
3.2 TT Roadster
Mk2 Red 16v
225 TT Coup
3.2 TT Coup

Mk2 BBM R32
Mk4 Anni Derv

User avatar
TomRich
Dub Ninja
Posts: 1638
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:35 pm
Drives: Golfs
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby TomRich » Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:26 am

Cheers mate, and yeah he's the man isn't he :) Surprised at the weight of the shell frankly, I don't remember much trouble with moving the GTI about and while this has a lot of extra little plates and reinforcement, it seems noticeably heavier... 350+kg easy.

The previous little black Golf weighed in at 964kg with about a third of a tank of fuel, so will be interesting to see what this comes in at.

The roll cage is going somewhere between Ben Straker's Mk2 16v (the cage is spot on in that one) and the R5 class Skoda and Polo rally cars with the upside down V in the rear stays and "FIA bar" to further support the A Pillars, so hopefully it won't be weightier than necessary. It's tempting to copy the Group A cars but honestly I'm just not too keen on the design.

Don't want to make it too modern though, so it's tricky, but a load of tube just looks like a load of tube to 99% of the world whatever you do, just look at half of the sh*t you see in cars from the US or Japan :razz:

Got some Epoxy Primer and Alpine White coming for the underside / inside so hopefully it won't be TOOOO long until it's covered up.
Shooting for something similar to Erwin Weber's "Test Car" at the moment but always subject to change - excuse the sh*tty render :lol:

Image
0 x
Image

User avatar
TomRich
Dub Ninja
Posts: 1638
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:35 pm
Drives: Golfs
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby TomRich » Sun Aug 25, 2019 6:59 pm

Pretty much sorted the seam welding now, there always seems to be more. Looking forward to rebuilding the strut towers and adding in the new rain tray afterwards, but that’ll have to wait for now.

There are a few left over bits at the back end and inside but after those it should be all stitched up. Modern shells are SO much stiffer, even from say a Mk3 to a Mk5 Golf, so it just doesn’t make sense to skimp. Any weight put in with MIG wire will be made up for in stiffness so I'm not worried in this instance.

Image
Image

There was a little section on either side I couldn’t get at, it's not there on normal Mk2’s but this weighty piece has to be awkward.

I could have gotten to it kinda but the factory fit of the panel is so horrific it may have been pointless anyway. While I had to hammer a few other seams up / down to get them into decent proximity once the sealer was removed, these were at the point where I’d just end up stacking up welds, so I stitched either side of the difficult sections where it’s closer and added a little brace in to make up the difference.

It weighs next to nothing as it’s such a tiny box section, and I’m sure it’d do as much as a couple of extra inches of weld, so all good.

I blew a hole like an idiot so one of the welds is pretty chunky, but what can you do. I just changed wire size from 0.6 to 0.8, and it’s a bit of an eye opener. Frankly I should have been using it all along, though maybe that opinion will change once I start welding repair patches in. Nice to be able to get more wire down without keeping the heat on the same spot for ages though :smile:

Image

Also reached a dilemma where I want it off the rotisserie but I want it painted underneath before it does come down.
It’s tricky as I’ll be f*cked if I’m gonna take it off and put it back on again but that’s really the ideal solution to it :mad:

The current thinking is etch prime the underside (I’d prefer the epoxy I have, and that's 100% the way to go for road cars, but it’s heavy and overkill here), then paint it with 2K, then when I burn through the fresh paint welding inside the car I’ll just clean up those patches and blast some new primer and paint over those bits.

It’ll still be a much nicer job than having to paint the whole underside from underneath, and the running paint and the worrying I’ve missed bits which would come with it, so I think it’s a good compromise as much as I resent doing things twice.

I'm also swinging back and forth between it being amusing and depressing how much better welds look when the car's properly clean and lets you weld it… so tempted to buzz down some of the dirtier areas' rougher or snottier seam welds and do them over. They’d probably behave the same again as the thinner / more corroded / more waxy seams will always be problematic unless you're a sh*t hot welder or constantly cleaning as you go, sadly neither of those apply to me, plus it’d only be an aesthetic improvement, it's solid as it sits.

Image
Image

There we are anyway, nothing’s ever simple and it's just a racecar :lol no: Cheers :thumbs:
Last edited by TomRich on Sun Sep 08, 2019 8:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
0 x
Image

User avatar
Monkey
Site Admin
Posts: 2693
Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2010 12:42 pm
Drives: VWs, lots of them!
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby Monkey » Tue Aug 27, 2019 7:50 am

Have a word with Jimbo, we put some rust encapsulator on the bottom of his, made a very tidy job if it too :thumbs:
0 x
Mk2 Driver
Mk2 Silver 8v
Corrado G60 Turbo
Mk2 Red 8v
Mk2 Grey 16v
Mk2 BBM ABF
Bora 20vt
Mk2 Green VR6
Mk2 Green ABF
Mk2 BBM 20vt
3.2 TT Roadster
Mk2 Red 16v
225 TT Coup
3.2 TT Coup

Mk2 BBM R32
Mk4 Anni Derv

User avatar
TomRich
Dub Ninja
Posts: 1638
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:35 pm
Drives: Golfs
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby TomRich » Wed Aug 28, 2019 8:30 am

It certainly needs it :lol: I found that anti roll bar the other day so have been meaning to give him a shout, will have a word, thanks :thumbs:
0 x
Image

User avatar
TomRich
Dub Ninja
Posts: 1638
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:35 pm
Drives: Golfs
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby TomRich » Sun Sep 08, 2019 9:15 pm

Got the shell upright again today. Luckily got a hand or this weighty piece would have rolled all the way round :D A dude from my local garage has taken a unit next door to Hardwired HQ to work on his kids' banger racers, so it's awesome when you need an extra pair of eyes, or hands on a Sunday afternoon as in this case, or the voice of some extra experience... as always the people you have around make all the difference :thumbs:

Image


I've propped it up with a stack of wheels and a bare tyre on top just to take some weight and keep it steady.

It looks like the welds underneath burnt in alright, so that's cool. Even some of the snottier looking ones are still well penetrated.

Image

On the shell welding, and me claiming they're often ugly and it's not just me being a bodger... this is a legit £200k+ Alfa touring car pictured below. If I'd done that on new clean metal with a factory motorsport pay cheque I'd be disappointed with myself haha, so I'll count the guff bits on the dirty old rust and sealant laden Rallye as "all good" :razz:

I've got more pics of rough 'uns on cars ranging from Frazero's Golfs (top-notch, ultra-competitive, excellent machines), Prodrive's Mini WRC, McLaren's E36 BMW STW to VWM's own Rallye to make me feel better about it too, so we'll chalk it up to it's just a sh*t job to do and 'function over form'. Not here to call out anyone who's proven their worth a hundred times over, just saying, it's all relative and prettiness isn't a priority :wink:

Image

Anyway, negatives and bodge-dodging aside... I decided that although it's FAR from the time, I'd start to have a look at the loom. The ignition coil section is actually not for this, it's for converting the Mrs' Corrado AGU 1.8T to NGK R8 coils over winter, but just using for measurements. The injectors, throttle position, intake temp, crank position, oil pressure and coolant temp bits are all laid up.

I've started making a kind of 'mock' loom first just soldering bits of 24 gauge solid core wire together and labelling what each offshoot is for as I go, and it seems to be a nice easy way of doing it if you're ever making one from scratch. Although there's a little more hands on labour I prefer it to just measuring up and making the loom off of numbers on paper.

I pikey'd out a little and re-used some old rubber boots which I cleaned up, which aren't strictly needed anyway as I use adhesive filled heat shrink at ends and junctions and of course the connectors all have weather seals in the back of the terminals, but I like to add them to tidy it up and as an extra measure.

Image
Image

Got my dash and fuse boxes and whatnot, a handful of switches and buttons for the dash, blah blah

Image

Then got to a loose end, waiting for a Mk2 to be collected, so looked through a box of BTCC electronics from the mid 90's super touring days that a mate dropped off recently.

Almost overwhelmingly tempting to use a load on the Rallye, but I already have a new DTA SX Dash seen above and will be using a DTA S60 ECU.

I have always been a big fan of DTA kit, as the first car I ever wired up had an R32 with a DTA S80 ECU, and I've had an E48 EXP and an S40 myself previously. Personal bias, along with DTA's support and my local mapping options, oh and Alex who owns DTA being a good guy with a history of VW's, makes the switch to tired old Bosch stuff purely for motorsport-kit cool-points pretty much plain stupid :roll: Plus it'd be nice to reunite some of it with the original cars.

Anyway, ECU, Dash and Shift Light, oil pressure sensors, data loggers, lap timing equipment and some other bits etc

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Simple things please simple minds I guess, not that Bosch Motorsport stuff is simple, but simply being near any bits that have helped a Super Tourer go out and be awesome makes my day :D

Cheers :thumbs:
0 x
Image

User avatar
TomRich
Dub Ninja
Posts: 1638
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:35 pm
Drives: Golfs
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby TomRich » Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:44 pm

Another terribly exciting update - Pointed some of this etch primer at it earlier... seems like nice stuff compared to most I've used.

Found a couple of rattle cans of stone chip too, so I figure what I'll do across the car will be etch prime, stone chip all the seams to smooth them out a touch visually and more importantly stop / slow down the usual racecar rust-between-the-seams and discolouration that comes from picking all the sealer off and welding them, then give it a healthy covering of some white 2k.
Should be harder than a diamond in an ice storm with a bit of luck, and still pretty light.

Anywho, this is the etch primer

Image
Image

And this is the day after with the stone chip added to the seams. It's pretty thick stuff, so hopefully it'll work well

Image
Image

Cheers :thumbs:
1 x
Image

User avatar
TomRich
Dub Ninja
Posts: 1638
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:35 pm
Drives: Golfs
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Re: Rallye Track Basher

Postby TomRich » Fri Sep 13, 2019 4:31 pm

Started the super-fun job of filling in unused holes last night while waiting for a Mk3 to turn up.

One of those jobs that you rotate between loving and hating in quick succession.

Way easier to just plant some tin-tape over unused holes, or rivet a plate over it, or weld a couple of tacks and then Tiger Seal round it, so if you just want it done then give those ideas some proper thought.

Most of the way through binning the fuel filler flap, even with a real good fit and welding a few tacks at a time and leaving it until stone cold and tapping the welds in while they're cooling and blasting it with an air line to cool it, this area always seems to warp, but this went way better than last time when I had a mate do my GTI's filler flap

Image

A few bulkhead and chassis leg holes, still a handful more to do

Image

And starting on repairing the sh*tty sill extensions and inner bits, not so keen for this bit and thank god for Dremel cutting discs

Image

More soon, but have a tight deadline on the aforementioned Mk3, so who knows when / what it'll be.

Also dug out my suspension to measure the thread of the front ones, as pretty soon I'm going to have to weld up the raised suspension turrets and get hold of some camber plates / top mounts, as I can't remember what it was (though I'm sure it was standard Mk2 thread, best to check, as the Mk2 Escort top mounts pictured with them didn't work out quite right)

Image

I never thought much of Gaz previously, I saw they had a few problems in the past and I've personally seen a couple of reliability / corrosion problems with the older sets (even the better Gaz 'Golds'), so they kind of fell into that 'alright, but not what I want' category.

Times change though a good few folks in motorsport are going as fast as anyone on the current style of Monotube Gaz's, so that made these worth a punt. It's not like they're going to have to worry about salt / grit / road grime for a start.

They also have a new (maybe not new anymore) quality control chap who has a serious background, and the actual guys at Gaz I've spoken to are sound and they clearly know their stuff, so I can't knock it.

Plus this particular set came from that fine gent Wes from MLP, who most of you probably know from the National Meet. They were on one of his Mk2's and with only a couple of meetings on them, and having spring rates close to what I was after and been fiddled with to limit droop at the back, I figured that for the good price Wes let them go for they'll at least be good for getting the car up and running and bedded in.

They'll do that job fine, and if they surpass those expectations or leave some room for improvement, either way they will have done their bit. They may be a touch stiff, as Combe and Thruxton are both quite bumpy, but I will have a wider track width and a little extra weight over the Mk2 they came from, so time will tell how much those elements balance it out.

Managed to pin a turret extension onto the passengers side the other night so that was cool. They should buzz down flush, and they're welded inside and out not that they really needed the inside done. I've got the top section cut out but need to make the hole, going a little further inboard in both directions - toward the firewall and toward the engine - as there's no need to ever have no camber and stock caster, and will get a couple of super-sized weld on 'washer' type dealy's to reinforce where the top mount is bolted in.

Image

And decided to tack on some cage footings so we can start measuring up for some tube

Image

Going up on the rear seat base for the hoop, to move it back a little from what you usually see to allow the seat further back and to generally just move weight a little further back, plus it's a pretty solid area

Image

So yeah, should be cool.

Cheers :thumbs:
0 x
Image


Return to “Members Rides”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests