So, earlier this year I gave in to family pressure to sell a car. I had a mk2 small bumper 8v GTI that was a lovely base car but did require a lot of work to get it nice. It was the most expensive car to get from wreck to "that's nice" so I sold it.
I listed it a few times but pulled out but finally let it go. I regretted it and almost immediately started looking around for a big bumper model as it would be nice to have something different to before. Plus I preferred the later interiors (campaign aside). My friend has a 16v mk2 but I thought it would never happen now prices have rocketed until a bit of man maths and this '91 Oak Green 16v was advertised on a well known auction site.
I spotted it a few days before the end of the auction and discounted it. Too expensive and it looked a bit too stanced for my liking. I looked at an alternative 8v model fot about £4.5k. It was rough but honest. I then came back to this on the last day of the auction and looked at it afresh - 16v, some wheels I could potential sell to reduce the overall cost, a 16v Corrado I have no real use for that I could sell - so I contact the owner asked very few questions, checked the MOT history and since it was 200 miles away I decided to be completely stupid and whack a decent bid on in the last 30 seconds.... madness.
Any today it was collected
(https://i.ibb.co/bWcpryW/Whats-App-Image-2021-10-06-at-10-10-36.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GxzgV1x)
and delivered to my house (more on that wet t-shirt on floor later)
(https://i.ibb.co/KGbBkRG/20211006-160654.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3s4VqGs)
I am super luckly and really happy with my purchase. It is every bit as good as it looks in the photos. The floor pan and sill are great. It has had nice repairs to the front jack points. The wishbones are new. The suspension is new. Wheels are lovely. Paint seems to be original - no dodgy masking etc.
Some pics
Floors
(https://i.ibb.co/Rvyn6qB/20211006-161726.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Lk5wg3J)
<a href="https://ibb.co/02KLP9r"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/QQkVsHM/20211006-161623.jpg" alt="20211006-161623" border="0"></a>
Engine bay (note t-shirt and some rusty water staining under header tank..)
Engine seems to have had a lot of work. I believe it has an ABF bottom end but need to investigate further.
(https://i.ibb.co/RpkyyKS/02d39bc2-a8bc-46ae-a327-89b29d2f1f00.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fYzvvWS)
Boot
(https://i.ibb.co/w0P8Zcr/1a9151b8-3c89-424a-b519-c015e97155c2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mD2drNF)
Car itself
(https://i.ibb.co/T4mgHQr/4b73693e-6681-4607-a860-ce23b8a61873.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0ChGf0Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/c2YqNC0/00135d0e-9320-4e03-84db-bd36d51824b7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2cZJjsx)
(https://i.ibb.co/JxPpYkz/c758de12-741a-4899-b008-6f5a45568e68.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rbJpByZ)
Now onto the coolant. Something is amiss - it's bubbling over when the fan kicks in. Top hose on left hand side always seems to have water in (when cooled down/off), bottom hose doesn't appear to get hot. Temp dial reads just below the middle (I know not particularly accurate). My friend said maybe the thermostat is stuck.
I tried to bleed the system tonight with cap off but as soon fan kicks in it bubbles over. Some investigation needed and any thoughts please shout. I think i will change the thermostat and sensors and flush the system to be safe. In the back of my mind is a head gasket problem but we shall see. Better to deal with that than loads of rust anyway.
The other not so good part is at one point this car had custom interior. The rainbow interior inside is missing the door cards (they are the blue yellow version instead) and the drivers seat is out of a 5 door. A pain to find replacements but better than dealing with copious amounts of rust!
I don't plan to keep those wheels. It will be heading back towards OEM (plus) with BBS RAs, eibach/bilstein combo.
More updates to come. Possibly the best car I've ever owned actually - I don't think I've got this excited on a car ever. I love my Corrado VR6 and it currently is a more sorted car but this 16v is not far off.
That looks really nice even if it is a 16v :D
It does sound like there is an issue with the thermostat based upon the fact the bottom hose doesn't get hot.
edit re wheels. I like easy to clean wheels. Hence I have estorils.
I agree, thermostat is stuck shut by the sounds of it.
Estorils are a really good shout. I do like the 8v as well, I would happily have one of them as well but I may get into trouble with the wife.... this one was a little difficult to get past her but I have to sell the wheels and the 16v Corrado...
Ordered a new thermostat, cambelt and waterpump. Belt looks old.
I've just been out there again - I am missing the ARB. Is that some sort of stance scene plus points at the cost of fine handling upgrade? Why - I don't get it?
(https://i.ibb.co/Tr4X37y/No-ARB.png) (https://ibb.co/8Xr3Zfk)
Does seem to be a great purchase, like you say, it's got all the important parts in place.
Just need a little fettling to bring it up to standard.
I'll agree with the above thermostat comments, also just double check you have flow coming back into the header tank, I had a blocked on once and it fooled me for hours!
I assume the lower part of the 16v block is the same as an 8v, as in the water pump is the same?
From personal experience I find the plastic thermostat housing warps so reusing an old one is "uncommon" ly successful, you didn't mention that you've ordered one of them. Glad to see you've ordered the water pump, from more personal experience I find the bolts sheer and for the price of a new pump it's hardly worth the effort of removing them.
No idea why you wouldn't have an ARB, has it been lowered that much that it would be in the way? crazy people
I assume the lower part of the 16v block is the same as an 8v, as in the water pump is the same?
From personal experience I find the plastic thermostat housing warps so reusing an old one is rarely successful, you didn't mention that you've ordered one of them. Glad to see you've ordered the water pump, from more personal experience I find the bolts sheer and for the price of a new pump it's hardly worth the effort of removing them.
No idea why you wouldn't have an ARB, has it been lowered that much that it would be in the way? crazy people
Yeah, it was a scene thing to do to get the car a little lower.
I'm surprised your sump is still intact if they've been running it that low!
I could order a thermo housing actually to be safe. Looking at the car it looks like it was probably a nice original example, fell into the hands of a stance lad, they did a lot of work tidying the engine bay - the subframe, wishbones are new and look unused (wishbone bush still has the green pen marking) but i reckon this coolant issue prompted him to flip it. The coilovers on the front look brand new and actually one of the top nuts was only finger tight. There are Koni's on the back but I guess stance super lows were put on the front.
I don't believe the head and block have been apart any time recently as the cambelt itself doesn't look particularly new (that will be changed as soon as I have figured out what's going on - if head gasket i'll leave it till then but no other signs like oil mixing or exhaust smoke). The block and other bits have been painted black and the head painted silver along with the gearbox so that does point to engine coming out at some point.
There was mention the bottom end was an ABF but I haven't been able to confirm as i don't currently know what I am looking for.
The chap I bought it off only had a few days before listing it as he was after a swallow tail mk1 from a contact and timing meant he had to sell his cars to get.
Sadly the front arches and trims have been cut to accept those wheels. All can be fixed, I might get a set of pattern wings and get my welding contact to put them on the wings on the car - they seem to be original and a good colour match otherwise.
I cannot wait to get a set of Eibach springs and bilstein dampers (or equiv), BBS RAs with some rubber and a slanty exhaust.
If I were you, I'd do a quick compression and leak down test to ascertain the condition of the block.
Should tell you if you have any head gasket issues too.
Also, if it's an ABF, it'll have 2.0 stamped on the back of the block.
Great choice for the suspension too.
Have you Amazon Prime ?
Like EddyP says, though you'd not think it was to look at it mine was warped - got one here a while back, currently out of stock but due in again soon - for £3.44 posted, it's not worth not replacing!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006DHS6H8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006DHS6H8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Never forget B&B Tierod on ebay.
I've been really impressed by their prompt service and you can even ring them up to verify you are ordering the correct part.
Thanks guys. I have bought the housing now. I've bought a few other things to refresh - rad looked tired, waterpump, timing belt kid, aux belts x2, rad sensor and the 3 temp sensors on the side of engine.
I haven't got a compression tester sadly but might be worth having one in the tool kit actually. EDIT bought one as they are less than £20
Looking at your jack kit you have the double spanner slot like L90E!
Noted Darren Dawson on the MK2 Owners Club Facebook page has a full red ultraviolet interior for sale. Location is Huddersfield.
That looks really nice, Matt.
Keep us updated on your progress.
So a little tinkering today but have not received the parts to address cooling issue yet.
I have mainly been inspecting: removed the wheels in prep for sale and raised the coilovers to something more sensible ( i hate coilovers - wind wind wind and many hours of ocd measuring). Of course they have their place but I'm not a racing driver needing perfection so give me a modest fit and forget spring and shock set any day.
So what did i find today?
- minror scabbage on edges of things like the inner arches, the rear panel corners. I will likely have to get the welder out for a repair on the driver side suspension turret seam once suspension out the way.
- engine - it is a 2.0 16v ABF bottom and top end. i was suprised at the top end as thought the KR injectors were not compatible? It is running K jet still. No history of the engine but it sounds just as smooth as my mk3 16v with 78k on it.
- a small weap from the o ring in tne underbody fuel pump. Pump looks new
- front subframe and wishbones new and look unused. I will want to drop this again as mounting areas have pealy underseal and would benefit from wire wheel, hydrate 80, epoxy prime, new gravitex to prolong their life. Assume I just need an engine support that braces across the wings and undo the engine mounts and steering rack to achieve this.
- sills appear to have been repaired or are very good. New jacjing points intalled but only primed rather than proper protection.
- stance crew cutting of front arches and plastic liners. :( . I plan to buy patteren wings and will weld the lips back on and repair the rusty bit down the front bottom corner.
If you're reading this and fancy a set of 5x100 OZ Futuras in excellent condition with very new tyres - i mean fresh refurb'd and a hardly any mileage good and have loads of pictures - and would like to part ex some BBS RAs in great condition then message me.
I liked this pic of the two 16vs. The mk3 needs to get to completion before the mk2 makes its way into the garage for a strip down - winter 2022 I plan to do this and I hope to use and enjoy it prior to that.
(https://i.ibb.co/WWCYm0Z/20211009-141313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Rp8VRNf)
(https://i.ibb.co/xSW2gmx/20211009-185840.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BVbf640)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q6XrPDp/20211009-185545.jpg) (https://ibb.co/khMQ4m5)
Looking at your jack kit you have the double spanner slot like L90E!
Noted Darren Dawson on the MK2 Owners Club Facebook page has a full red ultraviolet interior for sale. Location is Huddersfield.
Thanks! What's the double spanner slot?
I'm going to be after rainbows for this but thank you for the heads up.
The double spanner slot, is the slot on the side of the holder for the jack contents one holds a 10mm spanner the other appears to be empty.
scs
Ahh thanks!
My compression tester arrived last night. I don't think I ran the test quite right but these are the results and this is what i did:
Cold engine, disconnect plugs and did not open the throttle and have since read I should have done that.
My readings from left to right as you look into the bay
110
105
105
95
I didn't tighten my tester too much as was worried about the end getting stuck but am assuming these results are ok. Engine sounds nice and healthy when running so not too worried about valves etc.
I've also started disconnecting coolant hoses and the top hose was full of water - assume that shouldn't be the case on a stone cold engine?
Haven't quite located my thermostate yet but I am sure it will become obvious as I strip down further. I got the radiator and thermostat housing plus some sensors but still waiting for the actual thermostat and water pump. Got a buddy helping me with the timing belt (and also doing the one on the mk3 under his guidance) too end of next week so just preping as much as I can today. I haven't done a timing belt before but keen to learn - watched lots of videos and can see my way through but need someone to check it before cranking!
Only done the cambelt once.
Ensure the tension pulley is properly torqued-up. Then turn over the engine a few times with a socket on the crank bolt. Then you can't do too much damage.
I only noticed there is a difference in jack holders when L90E mentioned it an my eagle eye noted yours was the same.
Re compression testing. Did that with a cheap gauge but can't remember the results. If the head gasket had gone there would be an extremely low result for one or more cylinders.
I think I also put a squirt of oil down the spark plug holes and left it. Not sure it made much difference tho.
Hi I think you should do a compression test with a warm engine. I read somewhere you should take the black lead off the coil as this saves any damage to the electrical system. Good readings are in the 180 region.
scs
Hi I think you should do a compression test with a warm engine. I read somewhere you should take the black lead off the coil as this saves any damage to the electrical system. Good readings are in the 180 region.
scs
Yeah was going to say a healthy engine should be close to 180psi, those figures above look low but need to be done with a warm engine and WOT and as said king lead detached
Probably need to that again then! I did remove the king lead. I've drained the coolant and stripped off the rad now opps.
Couple of short vids from last week
https://youtu.be/ngz8PWalGAU
https://youtu.be/vQq2FGLSdU0
I'd say those readings aren't too bad.
While they're low, they're all within 15psi of each other.
Do it again with the throttle body wide open (or off), even when cold, it should still give you a much better reading.
Been a little busy with work so no attention until later this week. I did receieve a new expansion tank cap and noticed a rubber seal inside it. I then checked the one in the car and found the seal had been flipped/misaligned - perhaps this was my issue all along.
Is normal for coolant to gush out at pressure as tempertures rise? Assume probably but never really investigated like this before - I was aware you bleed coolant with the cap off but didn't think it got to the point of gushing out.
(https://i.ibb.co/R7MzHGX/245214243-4625774024111079-7397778209354673760-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t3N8Cw0)
We should have probably picked up on it sooner, but that's an old black cap. I belive there was an issue with the pressure release in black caps so they revised the design. New ones are updated to blue, I assume the new one you have is now blue?
Interesting that it's on the later style bottle. I thought the black cap thing was only early expansion bottles I've only ever seen blue caps on the later ones. I don't know if it was a recall, or part of the heater matrix recall, or maybe it was just something VW did if the car went to them for a service. ??? lots of guessing now.
Ha! I knew in the back of mind there was something about black caps but didn't think it would be something like that.
My new one is blue but a pattern part. The centre black plastic bit is smaller in diameter on the replacement it seems.
I think the newer expansion bottle probably came from the mk3 donor.
I've been doing some thinking and I think it probably makes sense to sell my mk3 16v. Maybe I keep the OZ Futura's and sell the mk3. My wife would prefer me to only have 2 classics (and I think it is a good idea plus I only have covered space for 2).
The question is re: the mk3 - do i sell it as a project to finish or do i finish it off. It's a low mileage car with a documented 77k on it. All welding has been done. It needs bonnet, roof, wings and the rear 3/4 painting. Interior perfect. If I finish it I doubt I'll want to sell it.
Hi depending on the cost for the respray it could cost more to paint than you get back. It could make it easier to sell if it looked well cared for.
scs
Over the last couple of days I've had my buddy Andy from Mobile Classics and Customs helping me out.
The main job was to change the timing belt and sort the cooling issue. The short of it is that we were successful but she did fight us. The engine is an ABF with KR inlet. It seems as though the ABF sat outside for a while as minor bolts on the timing cover and PAS pump all snapped and needed a bolt welding to and getting them out.
Summary of what we found:
-Thermostat seized
-PAS bracket missing a mounting point (bracket cracked) - yet to source
-2 x wrong bolts on the crank pulley. I stole a couple from the mk3 but they were too long. I found out the mk3 ones are 45mm long where as the KR ones are 37mm long - will buy some new ones.
-Dizzy was rotated 180 degrees incorrectly
-vac lines just thrown in - too long - I will tidy up and get new junctions.
- cambelt itself was pretty new and didn't cause any problems to replace with the tesnioner.
- changed the radiator for a new one.
- air box is swiss cheese :(
Once the cooling system was bled and and heating operational she was running nicely. Idle was still too high. We messed a little with the idle screw and the dizzy but since the k jet adjustment screw was missing we couldn't achieve perfection and more fettling is needed.
I also found the suspension in Koni damping adjustable coilovers all round. Since they are pretty new looking I will keep them for now and see how they fare on a soft setting.
Andy also welded in a section in the rear wheel well behind the sill. I will complete some areas on the drain lip tomorrow. Otherwise no extensive welding needed other than the rear valance corners. Underneath the trims is looking good however rear arches have been bonded on (lips have been rolled for fat wheels...). I can't be 100% sure behind those but won't be removing to find out.
I haven't managed to sell the Futura's yet but do lovingly look at them now and again so what will be will be with those.
Is there a link anywhere on setting up the k jet system? I've got to be searching the wrong things but thought there was a rubjonny guide somewhere.
-PAS bracket missing a mounting point (bracket cracked) - yet to source
One of the lugs on the original PAS pump casting broke off mine.
Great progress
Here’s my k-jet info:
https://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/clubforum/index.php?topic=114.0
Hopefully something there will help.
Monday updates! I put a wanted advert out for some rainbow door cards and the chap who contacted me knew the car (it was his mates) and he had done some work on it. He told me the coilovers have just been rebuilt (Koni adjustables) and it has had welding on the jacking points and the driver side top of inner arch. Sills themselves are good. He wasn't involved in the engine swap but the original engine is in his mates lock up.
Next up was to review the cambelt as I looked at my mk3 and noted the tensioner tension setting looked a bit different to what was done on the mk2.
This is how the mk2 was after changing the belt and tensioner. It had good tension on the belt but not quite right i don't think:
(https://i.ibb.co/LZ8DNtc/Screenshot-20211017-151350-Messenger.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vjHCXPT)
I then found the tension setting guide:
(https://i.ibb.co/jMymt3B/Screenshot-20211017-142916-Messenger.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YkcmgfY)
So i set about and adjusted the tensioner. Now I have watched the belt getting done and been hands on with the tensioner I would be confident doing the job myself next time.
(https://i.ibb.co/Cts5chR/20211017-150541.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j5ZvNgn)
Next up was figuring out the high idle. I searched for air leaks using carb cleaner but couldn't find anything except this
(https://i.ibb.co/FXDrgFv/20211016-140319.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pQL7JSD)
I have temporarily repaired with Bison rubber glue. On reinstalling the revs did drop a little to say 1200 at idle.
I also cut down some of the vac lines - they were very long. I also sprayed carb cleaner at the injectors looking for leaks but nothing.
I then screwed out the idle screw as far as it would go to check there was some sort of seal in there - i think there is:
(https://i.ibb.co/3c3x7BQ/20211017-125227.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pd7HxJ5)
I then started looking at the wiring for obvious breakages etc but didn't see anything. I'm not that happy with how this area looks - the red wire appears to go from coil into the red and back wire and then the red black wire also goes to the coil - assume it is spliced elsewhere as there are two red and black wires in the loom.
If any one has a picture of how the wiring is supposed to look at the coil that would be great to use as a reference to tidy mine.
(https://i.ibb.co/51tYS76/20211017-121355.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yNGhZ3X)
Anyway futher testing and something more concrete on fault finding- I found if I unplugged the ISV (i cleaned it with carb cleaner on ignition) the idle drops down to 950rpm. If I re-plug it back in the idle remains as 950rpm. However if I restart the engine with ISV plugged in the idle is back up at 1200rpm constantly. I'm not sure if it is a wiring issue, controller issue or a duff ISV or something else altogether. Which is the main temp sensor controlling ISV load?
I also played about with disconnecting the throttle microswitch. This did nothing with the engine note. I also rev'd to say 2000RPM and manually pressed the switch and that did nothing either.
Thanks!
Hmmm, could be a sticking ISV, have you tried moving it by hand, to see if it moves freely?
I had a similar issue with being unable to get the idle below 1000rpm . Not sure if there if there is any connection but I replaced my rocker box gasket recently and found the rocker cover breather gauze heavily blocked. I cleaned it out put the cover back on and had to turn the idle adjusting screw several turns to get the idle up to 800rpm.
scs
Hmmm, could be a sticking ISV, have you tried moving it by hand, to see if it moves freely?
I can see it moving inside when on ignition during cleaning - is there any more to it than that - novice here ha :D
I had a similar issue with being unable to get the idle below 1000rpm . Not sure if there if there is any connection but I replaced my rocker box gasket recently and found the rocker cover breather gauze heavily blocked. I cleaned it out put the cover back on and had to turn the idle adjusting screw several turns to get the idle up to 800rpm.
scs
I could go that route next actually as the rocker cover is leaking at the back. Is 800rpm the correct idle then on these? 950 is still high it seems then on mine.
Idle for a K-Jet is around 950-1000.
Not sure how much an 8v differs to a 16v in terms of set up but I suspect not much. The idle is set on the fuel metering head not the screw on the throttle body, and that screw should have an o-ring, they tend to go brittle and and deformed. You'll most likley need to fit a new one now you've moved it.
Does that idle screw on the TB come out then? It met resistance at that point so didn't force it.
My next job to research after this is dropping the subframe enough to install an ARB i've bought (currently missing) and I assume the subframe needs to be dropped to change the rear engine mounts too - engine has more movement that i'd expect. Also the 4 branch is very close to the bulk head so that can come off for a stock version.
The subframe itself is new so I am hoping bolts will not be a bugger.
Certainly on the 8v k-jet I'm used ot the screw comes all the way out, I'd expect the same on this. I imagine the resistance is the hard crusty seal that used to be a soft rubber o-ring.
A quick Google search shows...
https://www.maxrpm.de/Idle-screw-for-Golf-MK1-Golf-MK2-GTI-16V-GTI-Scirocco-EX-DX-EG-KR16V?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtrSLBhCLARIsACh6RmjhV_AlRynW5c8tmEVHFpfkHd802m7UqUxZZt5_x1WOSuG1sky3HF4aAigUEALw_wcB
but also shows https://www.maxrpm.de/Idle-screw-for-2H-PG-G60-9A-PL-KR-engines-OEM-051-133-432 for the KR.
but either way both have an O-ring, so worth checking it.
Ah thanks Eddy, the second one looks more like mine - longer shaft ohh err :D
Cheers and I'm getting my head around the K Jet resources in your sig. I will likely end up getting it tuned on a rolling road but would be nice to understand it myself first.
Looks like I'll have to find a K Jet 8v to add to the collection with all this new found knowledge.... perhaps something red for my wife's valentine's next year to replace the mk3 she wasn't particularly over the moon with.
Right plan for dropping the subframe enough to change the rear engine bush (PN 191 199 381 A) will be
1. Support engine with one of those bars with chains across the top
2. Undo tie rods
3. Undo engine mounts
4. Supporting subframe on a jack
5. Undo subframe bolts and wishbone bolts
6. Lower enough on a jack to change ARB and change engine mount.
I'll leave top mounts and hub assembly in the car dangling. Does that sound good? Would anyone do anything differently?
I'm going to be after rainbows for this but thank you for the heads up.
Noted these rainbows on FB:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1374372119443036/permalink/3051271041753127/?sale_post_id=3051271041753127&app=fbl
Thanks Andy. I have been trying to buy those rainbows for weeks it feels. The seller is busy with work. I have even found a courier company who will wrap them for transport so all he needs to do it pass them over.
I haven't done much on the mk2. Half holidays meant we were away. I'm focusing on my mk3 as I want it out of the garage and under a car cover for the winter - I've painted the drivers sill following welding and dinitrol wax and undersealed it underneath. The car needs some paint but I can't afford those pennies this close to xmas and with all the parts I am buying for my mk2 so it is going on the back burner for a while.
In other news I found some photos of the car on instagram and got chatting to the owner.
-he did the engine coversion, still has the original engine he would sell.
-I preferred the car on the 15in OZ Turbos it had before
-the ABF block had done 86k
-he sold it with the custom interior so the chap i bought from is the one who chucked in random interior parts
I am stockpiling parts in the post - bushes, ARB, door cards etc etc so will have an enjoyable winter on the car.
I am currently refurbishing some Borbet Cs which will be temp wheels until next summer. I can't justify buying nice alloys yet.
The only real thing of interest is messing about with the ISV - unplugging it brings the idle to 950RPM, plugging it back in maintains 950rpm but restarting with ISV connected takes idle back to 1200rpm. Squeezing the ISV pipes doesn't do anything.
Here's a vid of the testing - you can hear the change in exhaust note when i disconnect it. I'll source another ISV I think and if that doesn't do it then i'll look at the controller.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX4g0ySGx0o
Some goodies have arrived to get this car more stock and even better quality/condition.
(https://i.ibb.co/LCcCzK7/20211117-185141.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wKPKNtm)
(https://i.ibb.co/86Chjwt/20211117-185145.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cDBmN9V)
(https://i.ibb.co/DgMY40G/20211123-135537.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mFy0Jfv)
(https://i.ibb.co/C1pg1qR/20211123-135547.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0DpTDkH)
And a few updates on the mk3 16v. Welding all done, painted where I felt I could do it. I only used a rattle can on the blended section on the rear 3/4 plus wet sanding and polishing - turned out ok i thought! First time I've ever painted.
(https://i.ibb.co/9VfbXY9/20210929-212648.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gPXS1gM)
(https://i.ibb.co/GQp7JHk/20211005-164920.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wv5n3VF)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZdGGrJP/20211005-164945.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LSYYyPW)
(https://i.ibb.co/qgRFSHL/20211005-165000.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1X9JgCY)
(https://i.ibb.co/CwmdG93/20211031-195343.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dfj9Ypw)
(https://i.ibb.co/mRgm7F4/20211031-195355.jpg) (https://ibb.co/10j3xJT)
(https://i.ibb.co/zXxqyD3/20211113-154927.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pfwYt5H)
(https://i.ibb.co/5MTybdS/20211120-211816.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HF7s50b)
(https://i.ibb.co/0c3WQj3/20211121-192457.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wR1bYN1)
(https://i.ibb.co/9WBZg6T/20211121-192505.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VTbw9RS)
(https://i.ibb.co/fnh40ks/20211121-192518.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SdhRvtz)
Those wheels look great!
Good work on the mk3 too
Cheers Monkey, learning as I go!
Picked up a new downpipe from
@marcosgt yesterday. He has a lovely black GTI that served as great motivation to get mine where I want it. It was fun squeezing it in our courtesy hyundai i10 which was already full with 4x alloys, a piano stool and a Golden Retriever in the boot. Thankfully my mum was looking after my kids. My wife had a minor bump in the family estate car earlier in the week,
Since the subframe has to be dropped to install the ARB I'll bin the 4 branch at the same time. I bought a cast 16v manifold in good condition too.
I sold my 16v Corrado in Wales this week too, hence picking up the exhaust enroute home, as that project was not going anywhere and frees up some pennies to get both 16vs back on the road. Well the mk2 has a MOT but I just want to perfect it a little further and give the underside a good going over and protect it where any underseal may have flacked away etc.
I just want to perfect it a little further and give the underside a good going over and protect it where any underseal may have flacked away etc.
Careful, you are about to disappear down a mK2 rabbit hole. Started this job about 6 months ago. Every stud, jacking points, every stone strike, then there are the arches needs cleaning back to bare metal, rust converting, painting and sealing.
The resulting job will preserve the car for many more years though.
I just want to perfect it a little further and give the underside a good going over and protect it where any underseal may have flacked away etc.
Careful, you are about to disappear down a mK2 rabbit hole. Started this job about 6 months ago. Every stud, jacking points, every stone strike, then there are the arches needs cleaning back to bare metal, rust converting, painting and sealing.
The resulting job will preserve the car for many more years though.
I second the motion, I was just going to 'tidy up' my red one.
And now I'm zinc plating wheel arch bolts!
There in lies the problem tidy one bit up and it makes the rest look shabby.
scs
Some wit once said “success is the reward of anyone who looks for trouble”.
I know I am terrible. I can't leave flaking underseal unprotected.
This car has had a couple of jacking points and parts on the sill. They are in primer though so I want them protected properly with stonechip and some colour. I've already wirewheeled and repaired a couple of pathces in the inner rear arches. Other areas needing attention:
- bit of flaky at the back of the floorpan seam and I've already repaired each arch.
- driver side suspension turret seam needs a new patch welding in, strut will need to be removed. I can do that no probs.
- Drop the rear beam, refurb it and install new brakes et all
Fortunately the front subframe is new, as is everything connected to it but I need to drop it slightly to install an ARB and do the exhuast. I think there is a bit of flacky underseal around mounts so will repair it all as well. I have looked at ETKA and can't see a different part number being listed.
I will refrain from disturbing any underseal that is doing its job but will wire wheel back to clean metal the suspect areas. Well aware all sorts can be hiding under "good" underseal but I need to be pragmatic about it.
.... so it begins!
Also dropping off the fuel distribution unit and warm up regulator to KMI for a refurb and increase flow to support the 2.0 engine. Question here - I bought a spare fuel distributor unit to drop off, it is from an earlier 16v, does anyone know if it's the same unit as on the later 16v? It looks the same but part number sticker no good for reading.
Are you using any rust temover/convertor to stop rust creep under the new top coat?
Rustbuster and Bilt Hambler get great reviews.
I usually wire wheel to clean as much as possible. If welding is required I do that (and make sure I paint behind the repair too). I then carry out the following:
Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 converter - leave for 24hrs, apply 2nd coat, leave for 24hrs
Epoxy primer
If welding has happened I now seam seal (theory is the epoxy primer will have got into the low spots better than the sealer)
Epoxy primer again
Stonechip layer - I've been using Gravitex
Depending on what's happening next I either brush on some colour or I leave it and apply a dinitrol 4941 coating (with a dinitrol wax layer applied first as a primer).
I prefer epoxy primers over etch as epoxy is not porous.
I have also used a 2 part epoxy from Rust Busters as well - seems to be a good product when working underneath the car.
My mk3 is taking way longer than I had expected halting progress on the mk2. Every bolt rusted on the front wishbones, hubs etc etc. All cut off the car and sourcing some parts next weekend. Found recently the fuel cap and metal part around the neck had corroded away preventing the cap fitting (or coming off once fitted) so needs a new fuel tank too.
I try to work on one car at a time but got fed up with the Mk2 being in air. I put on it's new wheels, adjusted the suspenion upwards but got it too high on the front and took for a spin in my little village. I've also fitted the new seats but there is a lot to do to make the car really nice. Exhaust not straight and the splitter i think is beyond repair as no way join the two pieces?
MOT is up in March so trying not to take it apart before getting a new ticket on it.
(https://i.ibb.co/WcDxw4H/20220109-140520.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JzxB4wc)
(https://i.ibb.co/ckYSwGV/20220109-140549.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QpD3k2t)
Mk2 out on the road. MOT due next month. I hadn't taken it out as the cambelt tensioner kept loosing tension. I bought a new auto tensioner (ABF block in this one) and found it came with a spring washer and nut. The tensioner on the car just had a plain old washer. This appears to have fixed my issue.
(https://i.ibb.co/qyd7MsG/20220206-192804.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NVst6jh)
(https://i.ibb.co/JqygyG9/20220206-192821.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9hVSV17)
(https://i.ibb.co/PgDvVK4/20220206-192833.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JH3wSV2)
A little list of jobs, some needed for the MOT
MOT
Washer jets or motor not working
Headlight alignment off
Tidy up rear beam as a bit flaky to avoid corroision commentry
Others
Lost a thread on 1x rear wheel bolt (new discs will solve that). Arguably MOT but nut holds but won't torque enough...
Install new front splitter
Refurbish the rear beam
Speedo and mileage not working
Raised it up too much - 15mm lower at the front and 5mm at the back is needed I think
Alignment
Re-wrap engine bay wires
Fit heatshield on bulkhead to protect wires
Fit splash guard for pulleys
Fit boot turret carpet
Fit door membranes
Waterproof back of door cards with PVA mix
Straighten back box
There is an airleak somewhere on the inlet manifold - I think - can hear it suck when you rev in the engine bay in that area. Might be why the idle is a bit high.
Fit ARB (it was missing)
Coolant leak on pipe to heater matrix
Gasket or whatever is needed for rocker cover as leaking - same on my mk3 actually as well.
Get a proper front number plate
Get it to Stealth for a rolling road tune up and once over.
Bodywise - pretty good. Will eventually need some wings (cut by prior owner for big wheels), scuttle work and the rear arches were rolled so will get them put back to stock and avoid painting the quarters I hope.
I just want to perfect it a little further and give the underside a good going over and protect it where any underseal may have flacked away etc.
Careful, you are about to disappear down a mK2 rabbit hole. Started this job about 6 months ago. Every stud, jacking points, every stone strike, then there are the arches needs cleaning back to bare metal, rust converting, painting and sealing.
The resulting job will preserve the car for many more years though.
Yep I have ended up down that path! I've been fannying about with it tidying the car but got to point of sod this let's just do the job I wanted to do in the first place.
(https://i.ibb.co/4TpJGZm/20220423-180101.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KqWmkj0)
Parts off for blasting and coating. Some are mk3 as have gone to town a bit on that too
(https://i.ibb.co/MNtM37R/20220424-171742.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s3NyMqF)
Note no subframe in the pics - the mk2 has an ABF block under the KR K jet. The engine sits too high on the throttle body so after lots of looking around I've concluded I need a mk3 subframe in there as it does sit lower that side and you are also able to cut, say, 20mm out of the bush that too if still struggling. That frame en route to join the above.
The plan is to take the engine out, paint engine pay, tidy wires etc and do it right.
First though it will have swap places with the red mk3 (in garage).
I have also ordered 2 x panels for that carport to enclose into a garage so need to hurry up and get it on 4 wheels temporarily to move it out way, concrete the floor etc. Fun Fun.
Very happy with how these components turned out - thanks to Bury Farm Parts in Bedfordshire.
They looked terrible when i dropped them off. He even found the OEM stickers for each as well.
(https://i.ibb.co/DpKgPhp/Car-parts.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4dNgwzd)
Some pics of before
(https://i.ibb.co/WtDkRYV/alt.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m8v9PMN)
(https://i.ibb.co/9G1TXqh/alt2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DLvCX7Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/MVmZn8s/Starter.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zRzQs8r)
After - detail on the alternator
(https://i.ibb.co/cTfcBHx/alt-finished.jpg) (https://ibb.co/w6GNkXY)
They do look good could be new.
They look amazing.
If you don't mind, how much did he charge/how long did it take to get them back?
It was £300 and he would have done it in a week but had issues with the casing of the PAS pump requiring a replacement.
Edit to add he sources electronic parts from all over Europe and always tries to find OEM parts or decent branded like Bosch. Has a proper test bench as well.
Thanks, that's hugely tempting!
Just wanted to update what's happening - I've put the mk2 on the back burner for now. It is booked in with Dan Tinkler / DST Rustworx summer 2023 (paid deposit / waiting list) as I've decided I want this car done top notch. It will be having some work on the rear valance, rear arches, he will make good my front arches with pattern parts, front inner arches have a couple of areas.
The car will be going to him as a stripped (including engine) shell. I will get what needs to be painted and the engine bay painted once the work is done.
I've also been working on the mk3 16v and have bitten off more than I can chew with two cars on the go so putting the mk2 on the back burner focuses my mind on getting that one done and potentially sold as 3 old cars is a bit too much for me to keep on top of and actually use. I have bought all the mechanical parts for both cars - exhausts, bolts, bushes, fuel lines etc etc.
(https://i.ibb.co/zRXHcRd/20220812-183902.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Xs7kBsH)