With the 205 nearing completion (well as complete as any old car can be), I thought I'd resurrect the MK2 thread so as to be able to recommence it when I move over to it next...
Sunday afternoon, summer's over and it's drizzling outside...
Going to start a general thread on my 1992 8v that's currently sitting neglected in the garage, and has been since 2010'ish.
Every 18 months or so I get the energy to do something, but it's usually nothing major and she's still more or less as I got her all those years ago.
Too ashamed at her current state to let you see any photo's just yet. I'm probably going to regret this but publicly humiliating myself on a forum might be what it'll take to get me to remove the finger.
Hasn't stopped my wishful thinking though, that some day she'll move and I still buy bits every so often as I find them.
Anyhow these arrived on Friday, hence my latest renewed interest... hope it lasts!
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/SternB.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/sternA.jpg)
Had to start somewhere so for no other reason that it was sitting at the front of the parts pile I'd a go at re-texturing and painting the rear bumper cover.
Early on I decided I was going to try and do as much work as possible myself, partly because I'm tight but also to try and pick up some experience on the way.
The cover wasn't in bad shape to start with which was a big help, just some parking scratches.
The main issue was the unpainted black upper part had gone grey and no amount of dressing on it worked.
I used Halfords 'Truck bed liner paint' and even I do say so myself, it created a perfect match and came up a treat.
Difficult to get a decent picture, you'll have to take my word that side by side with the front cover it's virtually indistinguishable in the flesh.
The un-preped front cover is on the right in one of the images below
The white lower part also came up well, some more polishing and I'll be happy.
Rubbed down, primer and painted the cross-member/irons even though they'll (hopefully) never be seen again.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/RBumper2.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/RBumper1.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/RBumper5.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/RBumper4.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/RBumper3.jpg)
Saying as the back bumper's ready I was concentrating on tidying up the boot area before putting it back on.
You might remember eddypeck found a guy in Germany doing replacement boot stickers and that I got some sent over -
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/DIN+Sticker+Boot.jpg)
http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=47591 (http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=47591)
There's another smaller 'paint inspection' sticker on the same panel.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Insp+Lack+Original.jpg)
Had a go at replicating it myself since the original is in bad shape.
Seemed a waste of a whole sheet of adhesive paper just for a single sticker so printed off a few spares.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Insp+lack+Sheet.jpg)
Looks like whoever applied the original initialed it in pen, not exact but close enough!
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Insp+Lack+Pen.jpg)
Zender fetish strikes again... Like a lot of their more mundane bits, probably made by someone else and packaged for them, but when you're smitten that's not the point!
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Bolts.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/lock+nuts.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/lock+nuts1.jpg)
Not much in the bigger scheme of things but sorted out some cosmetic rust around the lip of the fuel tank inspection hole and replaced some of the foam bits around the boot area that had turned to dust over the years.
Just used the type that you'd find in the packing for electronics and the like, cut to shape and fixed with double sided tape.
The bit on the connector that leads to the sender on my car was wrapped around it, so I did the same. I've seen images of others that have the square pad laid flat over it, stuck to the boot floor. Guessing it depended on who originally put it on?
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Foam.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Foam2.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Foam1.jpg)
Although my car was registered in January 1992 the boot stickers seem to indicate it was manufactured in late August 1991.
When I was sorting out the space saver and jack kit I noticed the steel rim is stamped 11/88, which seems quite a long time to be stock piling parts before use
I've no reason to doubt the wheel isn't original to the car, it's unused and there's a 'mirror image' impression of the tyre face on the underlying boot floor and sound deadening. The rest of the car is standard and has nothing missing.
I though I might have been able to date the tyre in case it was made closer to 1991 but none of the numbers on it tally with the DOT format that would allow it. Apparently it's a three digit number for a pre-2000 tyre that gives the month and year of manufacture.
It's presumably a MK2 part as it's got the 191 number.
Having said that it's 14", not 15" and even with the tyre height added is significantly lower in diameter when stood against the standard rim.
I'm guessing it's likely universal items would span different models and versions so the jack having a 155 part number, (MK1 Cabriolet?) and the brace a 171 MK1 number isn't a reliable indicator.
The plastic housing has a 191 number which the jack and other bits all fit perfectly plus there's a schematic of it molded inside that seems to match the style.
So the question is - Are the spare wheel and jack kit likely to be those that came with the car?
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/saver3.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/saver.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/saver2.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/saver7.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/saver8.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/saver6.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/jack4.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/jack5.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/jack3.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/jack6.jpg)
The user manual's a 1991 print so should be accurate.
There's three relevant images and they're a mix of your type of jack/holder and the type I have, so looks like it's for the car OK.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/manual+jack.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/manual+jack2.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/manual+jack1.jpg)
The manual also lists the various bits in the kit so I'm happy everything is there but it would still be interesting to know if other models/markets had tools that went into these empty slots...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/jack1.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/jack2.jpg)
Did you notice your image shows the square foam pad that protects the connector to the sender, stuck flat to the floor... maybe it was done differently on later models?
Getting to the point were I can start to put bits back on the rear end, so tried giving the tail lights a polish.
They weren't that bad to start with, more dull than scratched,
They came up pretty well I thought, big improvement for not much effort.
Before...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Tail+before.jpg)
After...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Tail+after.jpg)
Things are starting to get anal now...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/bootstrut4.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/bootstrut3.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/strut.jpg)
My good intentions came to nought yet again, and I've done exactly nothing to the car since the end of last year.
As said before the occasional new find prompts renewed interest... Got these in Poland, already had the gauge holder.
In reality the angled apertures make no discernible visible difference when the gauges are fitted.
Last piccie is from a 1988 dealers catalogue.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/zgauge4.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/zgauge3.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/zgauge1.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/zgauge5.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/zgauge6.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/zgauge9.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/zgauge8.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/zgauge.jpg)
Turning into a steering wheel wh***!
Picked this Nardi / Personal up less its badge, but with a genuine 81/85 Audi 80 hub which just so happens to also fit most small spline VW's.
Found an original Audi badge of eBay.de plus as luck would have it the VW GTI version, they're the exact same wheel otherwise.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/golf_zubehoer_m10.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/nardigti.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/audi+prospekt.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/nardiaud.jpg)
Was in the loft last night looking for something I thought might do the Pug and found this way at the back.
I'd noticed the box before, but thought it was empty and for a 'normal' deflector I've in the garage for the MK2... turns out it wasn't!
I must have bought this a very, very long time ago, possibly from a guy in Poland. He'd one of those one page websites you sometimes still find that look like they were done in the 80's for an arcade game.
It was like going back in time and finding a car factors that'd been closed for decades, but still stocked up. The NOS stuff he had was unbelievable.
Just had a Google and it's possible 'Airpress' have since morphed into the current day 'Climair'.
Judging from the sticker on the box and the cars the deflector was intended for I'd say this was possibly a mid to late 80's item. The idea behind the flaps seems sound enough, be interesting to see if they work in practice.
Definitely going onto the MK2.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/4-26e8eb73.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/5-e57b9561.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/6-726c8ddf.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/1-896ec434.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/2-f454974d.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/3-766b82b9.jpg)
GTI-Engineering Dash Gauge... Originally a post of it's own, including it here before it's lost on the old forum -
GTI-Engineering offered a single dash mounted gauge to compliment some of their conversions.
Below is an image from the 1990 catalogue and another filched from the inter-web of it in someones car -
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m10.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m12.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m13.jpg)
Had toyed with the idea of doing it for my own, even got some of the bits, but it involves a certain amount of cutting to the dash clock surround and I now want to keep things original.
Might buy a spare surround and finish it, you never know!
The hand brake light warning lamp's from a US spec Golf/Jetta, hence the 'BRAKE' script in addition to the symbol. Must be a version out there with the symbol only (if it's in the pics), be interesting to know.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m2.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m1.jpg)
The new gauge surround is a VDO item but intended for their marine clocks. Some come in 52mm just like the automotive ones.
Main difference is the aperture is smaller than 52mm because it's meant to be fitted over the bezel of the marine gauge, not have the gauge slide into it, presumable to help keep it waterproof, like so...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m9.jpg)
I'm guessing it's closer to 51mm so easily enlarged with a Dremmel or similar to get this...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m16.jpg)
As you only need the handbrake symbol to illuminate I took apart the whole thing and these two connections run it, the rest are redundant.
I snipped off the remainder to allow the plug to fully insert into the US housing.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m3.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m11.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m14.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m15.jpg)
They're the correct spacing and size to allow your existing plug to connect, so no cutting wires is needed.
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m4.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m6.jpg)
The dash surround will be easy to modify as the area the gauge will fit into is mainly thin air anyway.
The left hand side of the hand brake light panel will need cut down to allow the gauge room, again shouldn't be too difficult.
The new surround could be fixed with screws from behind, the enlarged aperture turned out to be a snug fit and will hold the gauge without any help, but you could also use the normal 'U' bracket if it's loose. I've just mocked it up here to give you an idea...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/m8.jpg)
Clock surround arrived today and seems to be in excellent shape, with the added bonus of having the red symbol panel.
I tried to take images as I went along, but not having two pairs of hands it meant some of the stages didn't get pictured, however I'm sure you'll get the idea from what is there.
I used a combination of a very fine toothed modellers saw, a Dremel with the cutting disc attachment and various small files plus some fine sand paper, so nothing unusual is needed.
The red panel face comes away from the white body when you remove the 8 x fixing points on the rear. They're just the ends of the pegs from the red part, melted flat into recesses in the white body. Being brittle plastic they'll snap off easily but still leave enough of the peg to later re-position the red face correctly.
Made working on the two bits so much easier when apart.
As before, it's not difficult but very, very easy to break something you didn't want to.
There's probably variations on how to do this but this way seems to preserve the rigidity of the clock surround and symbol panel.
The last remaining tang on the panel body is enough to hold things tight but I'll likely add a blob of adhesive to the other end where it slips into the clock surround.
Next stage will be fixing the VDO gauge surround, it's just mocked up at the moment... leaning towards small screws from the rear, but we'll have to wait and see, Saturday night's Bacardi night and a steady hand's needed!
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c4.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c5.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c1.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c2.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c3.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c7.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c6.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c8.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c10.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c12.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c11.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c13.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c14.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c15.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/c16.jpg)
I thought VDO probably know best and went for their solution of a 'U' bracket. It had to be a bit wider than theirs to reach but there's a very convenient groove down each side where the now missing blanking plugs once fitted...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/vdo.jpg)
If it's a straight forward job, I'll fit the whole thing into the car to see what it looks like cleaned up and the holes filled in. Still not sure I want to make it a permanent fixture though, but it might grow on me.
Needed to put the dash back together after trying to get to the bottom of the speaker problem, so an ideal opportunity to change over the clock surround at the same time.
I went with the cut down standard symbol panel, the US one would need the circuit board bit trimming back and I'd probably mess up the electrics to the bulb in the process. Would be easy to put a new bulb/holder in the US housing and do away with the board altogether, but as I'd already done the other, I just stayed with it.
The void behind where the gauge now sits is more than big enough to accommodate it, absolutely no issues with it fouling on anything.
Used the analogue clock for no other reason than it was in the spares box, but I actually like it. Not wired up yet, but be nice to see it illuminated with the rest of the dash.
I'm more keen on it now that it's in, might just wire it up and keep it. Easy to reverse if I change my mind or want to replace the clock for say an oil pressure gauge or go back to the standard surround..
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/2-c75a2d11.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/3-553b5b85.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/1-9b493b58.jpg)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/5-13b61ad0.jpg)
For the pedants it was actually correctly done from the reference material, just as GTi-Engineering would have...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/desktop/%21.jpg)
Is this what it's like to be old (Damien.wrl)? Déjà vu!
You sir are officially sadder than me... proud of your efforts ... you have taken up the batten
Oh FYI the first empty slot shown on the tool kit holder I use for the Allen type key for the teardrop centre cap lock bolt ...
The 205's not quite done yet, but now that it's driving again the last few things just don't seem to be as important anymore and can wait a while longer.
Moved the MK2 into the light and it's clear it's going to be much more work to get running again, shes been sat for far too long.
Going to break myself in gently and give it a clean up first, just to see what's, what.
The interiors probably the bit that'll take the least effort, but still need to check there's no hidden surprises.
Been poking around the boot and rear quarters, though thankfully nothing to worry about yet -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/boot3-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/boot2-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/boot1-960w.jpg)
Even after a few minutes it's obvious the MK2's in a different league to the 205... far superior build quality, materials and attention to detail / design.
As much as I like the wee Pug, first choice will definitely be the Golf.
Car's registered January 1992... starting to find manufacturing dates on different bits that tie in with that.
On the Pug there was quite a few trim bits from much older and younger vehicles, not surprising really as they're so brittle.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/seatbelttag-960w.jpg)
Nice work as usual, looks a very clean shell.
How is the bed liner holding up on the plastic?
I'd forgotten you had a mk2 too!!
Me too... if it were a dog, I'd be doing time by now.
The bumper's spot on, just the same. Having said that it's done nothing since I made the original post that would test it out, other than to say it isn't showing any signs of coming off or similar.
Someone has been busy! Those Zenders will get it off great.
Poor old Golf went back to being ignored for a few weeks, however just got around to putting the drivers door electric window gubbins back in
Some of you'll remember from the old site that it'd stopped working and the fix was to take the motor apart to free up the sticky bushes (cue Damien.wrl).
All that's lost now, but if I find the old images may possibly repost it as a 'how to'.
The upshot was that I'd done it so long ago I couldn't remember what went where and had to take apart the passenger side door to see from that.
The drivers motor still works after the fix by the way, so obviously effective.
Gave the passenger side a clean up saying as it was now accessible, having said that it was just dust really... great testiment to VW's rust prevention, even if the original wax is now a bit crusty after 30 odd years. New layer of Waxoyl... didn't even take the old stuff off as it was still doing its job.
Found some hand written marks (in crayon or wax pencil I think), presumably done at the factory for whatever reason... Amazing to think that whoever did it may not even be around anymore!
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/original+wax-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/waxoyl-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/E1-960w.jpg)
You might remember eddypeck found a guy in Germany doing replacement boot stickers and that I got some sent over -
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/DIN+Sticker+Boot.jpg)
http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=47591 (http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=47591)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Insp+Lack+Pen.jpg)
Can I still get hold of one of these?
Just had a quick look and yes he's still selling and from recollection the price is the same too -
https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/vw-golf-2-datenaufkleber-neu-/614094109-223-3059 (https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/vw-golf-2-datenaufkleber-neu-/614094109-223-3059)
That's a German equivalent of our Gumtree. I don't speak German and using Google translate found it easy to sign up to it. You could message him via the site.... his English is excellent and I don't see you having a problem communicatiing.
I'll message you his direct email address, the one he was using in 2017 at any rate.
At that time he needed an image of your existing one to work from, to get all the codes etc., but maybe he's able to do his own now if you haven't got one.
You might remember eddypeck found a guy in Germany doing replacement boot stickers and that I got some sent over -
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/DIN+Sticker+Boot.jpg)
http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=47591 (http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=47591)
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/Insp+Lack+Pen.jpg)
Can I still get hold of one of these?
There’s a guy in the UK on Facebook making these. Search on there :)
Thank you.
Just read from the start to catch up, some attention to detail you have 8)
Interior / dash looks cracking
Cheers... the urge to do something with her is definitely growing, though when you see some of the work being done on other threads it's all been a little piddley by comparison so far.
I'd love to have that sort of nowse to tackle the mechanical side of things, probably why I fixate on the things I can do.
Still sort of new fangled with the 205 too, which is distracting me big time.
Must've done nearly 600 miles in her this month alone, just going nowhere in particular.
It's been a good few years since I actually went out for a drive, just for the pleasure of it - going to have to speak to the insurance people about upping the mileage allowance.
OK... the threads gotten all very disjointed and a bit odd to read in places - when it was transfered over from the old forum I couldn't include the replies and comments others made, plus some of the image links were broken and chunks have been left out as a result.
I've found what I think are most of the images from the front fog light fix - the one using the metal bodies from MK3 fogs to replace the often singed / melted plastic bodies found on quite a few MK2 ones.
There was originally quite a bit of a written explaination (which if I'm honest, I just don't have the will to try and repeat at the moment) so I can't guarantee anything is in the correct order below, or that I'm properly remembering what's going on in the images... so don't take what you see as entirely correct or complete and check before you commit to dismantling anything valuable!
Feel free to jump in if you see any glaring mistakes!
1. MK3 Hella metal bodied front fog light - less its bumper mounting bracket and clip on/off glass lens / bonded on plastic holder, none of which are pictured or you'll need.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-83a7a999-960w.jpg)
2. Remove the black plastic housing by picking out the original (white) sealant. In the images below you can see the tangs (highlighted in the second image) are poking out straight. They are in reality bent over and encased in the sealant... the images were taken after straightening them to allow removal of the grey metal housing. You'll have to remember to bend them back over when refitting later on.
They're also orientated with one tang being larger than the other to ensure they only fit the correct slot and way about
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-26e144ae-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/8-bc797cd6-960w.jpg)
I may have remembered this bit wrongly... I think the grey casing with optical lense is more or less the same on MK2 and 3's and therefore interchangable. If not just use the MK2 one instead.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/9-fc787bc4-960w.jpg)
3. You'll obviously need bits from your MK2 lights... one is the white piece below, that replaces the black vesrion from the MK3. It's removed in the same way as the MK3 one, by picking out the sealant / tangs etc.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-2646ad5c-960w.jpg)
4. Shiney metal bodied MK3 reflector in various states of cleanliness before painting. Not essential I suppose, but easy to do while like this and should help prevent corrosion-
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/10-22ce8f00-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/11-4aab2130-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/12-3f74c866-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/13-7d85b3b8-960w.jpg)
5. MK3 reflector in MK2 (white) plastic holder and memory permitting your choice of MK2 or MK3 grey metal casing / optical lens.
There's a 'cup' on that casing... just in case your tangs allow fitting either way round make sure it goes to the bottom - Note the tangs in this image have yet to be bent back over before resealing.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/14-f7e99205-960w.jpg)
And bent over...
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/15-94369dbb-960w.jpg)
Thermal sealant, the temperature of the lens is intense, hence the plastic versions melting.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/16-97b88529-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/17-960w.jpg)
6. Finito... Hella MK3 metal reflector with Hella MK2 bits back on -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/20-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/18-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/19-960w.jpg)
I'm glad you've re-posted this bit. I remember seeing it the first time round but didn't take much notice as I didn't have a big bumper model then. To my knowledge my fog lights are OK but not really investigated. Its good to know this is here.
And again! This is the electric window motor fix, insofar as it related to the problem I had anyway.
Same rules apply... don't assume my memory's correct, or the images are exactly in their proper order - it was all quite a while ago.
Did all the usual / obvious things first by changing fuses, switches etc. etc but as you may remember it was ultimately tracked down to the 2 x bushes (more accurately the grease around them) in the motor having got sticky through time / inactivity and holding them away from the copper coil so as to not be making a connection..
Just needed freeing up, cleaning and lubricated again... all very straight forward in itself.
The awkward bit was getting to that point as there's definitely a knack to taking it all apart. Once you've twigged it, it's easy but up until then you'll probably find bits falling out, uncoiling or flying off all over the place.
I'll let the images do the talking this time, I don't have the energy to re-write it all up again. They're pretty self explainatory and should take you though the dismantling back to reassembly, but if there's anything needs going into in more detail, just ask.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_163159-c1bd5e40-960w.jpg)
(Cable ties will help it from unravelling)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_163010-dd24575b-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162859-b4e59ced-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162818-42d6ddc6-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162753-70618496-960w.jpg)
(Paper gaskets shot here, ultimately I found liquid stuff did the job at reassembly)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162717-bad9c49f-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162859-b4e59ced-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162544-490cce19-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162151-a6b78100-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162208-5f22da70-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162224-74a67c4b-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162308-3e6bbd20-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162137-2161c201-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162123-d7f2505b-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162016-b2f331d5-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_162044-734f7e80-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_20170912_163010-dd24575b-960w.jpg)
Great write ups will be good use to some , personally I didn’t know that Mk2s had fog lights or electric windows... you will be telling me they have PAS next
Don’t suppose you would like to post the info and anything else into the knowledge library?
Yup... I'll tidy it up a bit and stick them across there sometime soon.
I'd also the drivers window glass out at that time and I clearly remember what a faff that was - though think I've got it sussed now, if only through trial and error, so will try to add that as well.
Soooooo... Finally finished moving everything around in the garage so as to make as much room as possible to get at the MK2 in the coming months, it's still tight, but better than it was.
Ordered some propane for the space heater in anticipation of the weather getting colder soon - after being absolutely frozen doing the 205 last winter I've no intention of there being a repeat - It's a Mickey Mouse eBay one from years ago, but does the job.
Ashamed to say I have this car around 10 odd years now and will fully admit early on I made the mistake that probably a lot of people do and began to take things off it.
The really sad part is that it was running well, had tax and a MOT, but instead of doing it in stages I thought I knew best and inevitably one thing lead to another - very quickly it was a non runner and living mainly in boxes.
The engine bay's a mess... can't face doing anything with it at this stage so will be concentrating on the interior until I get into more of a rhythm. It's also the area that's the most dismantled... the upside of which is I can clearly see the bulkhead, warts and all - glad to say no rot.
Said previously that the interior was always in good shape and seems to be complete, really only doing exploratory work just to make sure there's no hidden surprises.
So far, if I had to guess, I'd say I'm the first person to see everything again since she left the factory... nothing looks disturbed. Infact I'm probably going to stop at this level, it's likely I'd do more harm than good going further. The bitumen backed felt is getting a little fragile and I don't think it would take being removed very well, specially just to put it all back on straight away. You can see in some of the images that bits of the felt are sticking to it having been pressed into each other for so long. In anycase I can see well enough beneath it just by lifting parts up insitu.
Fair warning, I'm going to use this thread to keep a bit of a record... The pics from today are a bit on the dull side (and I didn't realise at the time, pretty poor quality also, but too late now), so get used to it!
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-047d5b98-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/5-4a7731e8-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-dd8f07fd-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-6bd17800-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/6-bf054a4a-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/8-c81f5138-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-1e37401a-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-35dc4b0d-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/9-0518b2f3-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/10-c0ddaa90-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/11-607bb6f0-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/12-4009e293-960w.jpg)
Few pages back there's some references to the additional gauge I put into the dash surround.
I'm getting to the point I'll be buttoning things up in that area and would prefer not too have to take stuff apart again if possible when a bit of forward planning could prevent it.
Because of that I'll have to make a decision on what gauge to fit, so as to wire it up now and leave things prepared for final connection at a future date.
Have got very rusty on MK2 info. having been away from actually using or working on one for so long, plus the 205 being french does everything differently and I'll have to adjust my mindset away from Peugeots oddball approach to doing some things.
I'll obviously be looking into jobs in better detail as they arise, but before then and just for the sake of it wanted to stick up a post now.
The Pug has old school gauges for oil temperature, another for oil pressure plus one for the expected water temperature.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-16ce2e4a-960w.jpg)
Modern cars make you lazy when keeping an eye on your engine and I'd forgotten how those gauges aren't only useful but just add to the pleasure of driving an old car.
Think I'm right in saying the MK2 MFA has an oil temperature reading, but presumably you'd have to go in at every start up and find it plus the other readings would be denied you by keeping it on that one...
I'm leaning towards either oil temp. or pressure then... at the moment temperatures winning.
Is one easier to set up over the other... extra sensors for example / can work along side or use the existing MFA sensor / wiring?
On a side note thinking of putting either an amp or volt gauge in the 205 (it's got all the others main ones already) and battery condition / in and output is more of a biggy on them than MK2's what with the way Peugeot wired things up, so it'll not just be for looks.
Again it'll have to be one or the other, not both so need to decide.
From what I've read so far it looks like ammeters are more for really old cars, pre-alternator types and voltmeters would be better suited for a 205?
Anyone have either of them fitted and can share their experiences?
I'm in a similar position with mine, I have a set of gauges, Amps, Volts, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure along with an SWG centre console (A copy of the Votex job for a fraction of the price) ready to take them. I never got round to fitting them int eh last car but I'm determined to put them in this time. And I currently have the dash out (for the 2nd time in under a year) so it's now or never as I hope I don't have to pull the dash a 3rd time.
Volts is the easiest, you can just feed off an ignition live, could do perm live direct off the battery for a true battery reading, but that's not ideal so I'd say stick with ignition live.
Now, just a thought, but that power outlet you've put in the 205, on eBay they do little digital volt meters, either independent or as part of a usb charger. like so:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ISgAAOSwuwVfY0Ga/s-l1600.jpg)
You could always replace what you've fitted or I think you have space to put one at the side. Not very OE I know but would be desecrate enough but still helpful.
Amps is a little trickier, as for it to be effective, as far as I understand it, you want to monitor the amps used at cranking so you have to interrupt the starter motor, which means bringing heavy gauge cable into the car from the battery and back to the starter via the gauge. I think you're right, it's not really anything you see in more modern cars.
Volts, Oil temp and Oil pressure tends to be the standard set people go for in a Mk1 or 2.
There is a temp sensor that feed the MFA, and yes you have to cycle through to it on the MFA and obviously while you're looking at it you don't have the clock or other setting. I belive you can use this sensor and take feed to a temp gauge, this will disable the MFA one. If you want both you have to run a T-adapter and fit a separate sender. You can't just split the feed as it won't reed accurately or so I'm told.
There is also a pressure sender fitted but it only triggers the warning buzzer you get if the oil pressure drops. For a pressure gauge, you need to get a 2 pole sender. You fit this in place of the current pressure warning sensor and one pole feeds the original buzzer the second pole feeds the gauge.
This is the information as far as I understand it so far, not speaking from experience as I haven't got that far with my set up.
Wasn't going to put gauges in the center console, slots were taken up already with the window switches and a C-Box.
Might ditch the holder now though, probably not have anything to put in it anyway and already have some VDO's that'll cost me nothing.
The bluetooth adapter I mentioned before, that I got to steam to the Pugs stereo works a treat (highly recommended) and makes having cassettes redundant, likely be gettting another for the MK2.
Combined with the single top gauge I can now cover everything so problem mostly solved.
Picked up yet another cheapy, VDO (single pod this time) and gauge so it's destined for the 205... think it'll be the Voltmeter for that - the ammeter sounds like a real pain to wire up correctly and I really don't want to be distubing fragile Peugeot wiring now that it's all working properly.
The additional clock I put into the dash surround detailed in an earlier post uses the VDO Marine gauge surround, as GTIEngineering seem to have also done originally.
They're not that easy to find these days, probably a discontinued line by now.
Occasionally you'll see them on non-UK sites, not overly expensive but postage is usually prohibitive.
This sellers in the UK... cheap, look to be old stock and limited supply if you're after one to do it yourself.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-Gauge-surround-for-52mm-gauge/402532919108 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-Gauge-surround-for-52mm-gauge/402532919108)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vx0AAOSwyARforEh/s-l1600.jpg)
I just thought then used the Scirocco gauge surround.
(https://cdn.shortpixel.ai/client/q_glossy,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.dsf.my/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/VW-Scirocco-Mk2-cabin-dashboard-1536x1486.jpg?v=1585105832)
I have a couple of those in my stash as I was planning on doing the same mod originally. I was going to put Oil pressure up there and Amps, Volts and Oil Temp in the console. But since I've decided Amps in pointless I'll probably just put the 3 below and not mess with the instrument cluster yet.
I have considered a vacuum gauge, so maybe if I get one of those I'll still go with the up to gauge too.
The more I look into ammeters the more they seem like a whole world of hassle for not very much gain, plus the type of info. they provide isn't as relevant to modern (read that as cars with alternators as opposed to dynamos) vehicles... shame as I've got one in the style I like.
Unless you've a gauge fetish and want them all I think you're right - oil pressure / temp. and a voltmeter are good everyday additions and genuinely useful.
Not many cars don't have water temp. already, but if not I'd substitute that for the voltmeter.
Non essentials - maybe an analogue clock or outside temp. gauge... VDO also do a few 52mm rev. counters, must look impressive whizzing around being so small.
When I was first looking at the single extra gauge I'd got the Scirocco surroundto try and I think size wise it'd work fine but isn't so deep as the marine one. There's also a groove around the outside edge too I think? The marine bezel is just smooth.
I was working on inter-web images and small piccies in catalogues so always the chance they used either at different times / applications that I didn't find... plus my peepers aren't the best.
I am old fashioned boatie, , I would stick a weather vane ,inclinometer, log and a barometer in
Rum level...
I did pick up a horizon line gauge from a 4x4 for a laugh, but it was cracked and the fluid leaked out so wouldn't roll.
Re-hashed the middle console and now doing away with the C-Box, that'll only leave the window switch panel and the 3 x VDO's.
Along with the new single, upper gauge should cover all the bases... just have to decide what goes where.
As the oil temp. is probably the one I'd be looking at most, at the moment it's for the lone upper mount as pictured below.
Beauty of the whole set up is it can be changed around later if needs be.
Said elsewhere I've a box of gauges, built up over the years so fortunately spoilt for choice as far as styles go.
Going to go for a mix... I've got enough of the ones with the profiled bezels (Night Dials) to do all four, but the jury's out on how that version looks in the upper slot - much prefer the plain bezel one instead (MobilCockpit).
Up side is they're both white needles with back lighting as opposed the more usual orange with ambient side lighting that you see on older styles such as the Cockpit International ones.
They're both from around the late 1980's, early 90's and discontinued but you see them for sale quite regularly.
Prefer the plainer graphics of the MobilCockpit too when up near the standard clocks, better match.
There's green silicon bulb caps available that'll help them to compliment the original gauges.
When the single holding bracket was originally made up it was done using a random clock as a template, it was only later I realised the fixing points where different to the gauge I finally settled on - had to re think things a little, but it came out OK with a some tinkering.
VDO state postive wiring should be at least 16 gauge and earth 14 gauge, seems excessive but I think it's more to do with getting accurate readings when the gauge is a distance from the battery rather than anything else. Means they're bulkier than you'd want or expect, hence the small scalloped cut out to prevent rubbing.
Have since found a few more images of a GTiE car with the single gauge in, think it's currently owned by Paul Cowland of TV / Magazine fame?
Shows the Marine Gauge surround a lot more clearly. Got to say you'd think it was made for the VW dash surround, lines up exactly with the existing switches / blanks (including depth) and the join lines of the handbrake 'on' light holder, you couldn't have measured it more accurately if you'd tried!
Would love to see behind a period installed one, just to understand how they did it. It's not complex, but there's a lot of fiddly, time consuming work... can't have been cheap to do commercially.
(That's an earlier MK2 and they look like Cockpit internationals)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/gtie-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/gtie1-960w.jpg)
MobilCockpit style -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/12-5367fa1b-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/11-95a1b93a-960w.jpg)
Night Dial style -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/9-faf46fde-960w.jpg)
This is the Night Dial Voltmeter I put in the 205 - gives you an idea of how the back lighting looks even if it's got an orange cap on the bulb in that piccy.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-d77ca4be-960w.jpg)
MobilCockpit - Night Dial.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/17-955a8704-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-f836a421-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-c58427ab-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-31ad7fa7-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-b92bdcf0-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-6f95fb46-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/5-3d1642be-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/9-505b5ca1-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-8052fbcf-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/8-9b0c97b3-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/6-36c68ed2-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/10-9d2f7bcf-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/11-85f9889b-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/13-e046b0fc-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/12-26105b09-960w.jpg)
The DIN panel for the 3 x VDO's is a Zender one, bit different in that it's ever so slightly angled to allow a better view from the drivers seat. Doesn't look much, and it isn't but does make a difference.
The Votex gauge holder won't allow the larger bezels of either the Night Dial or MobilCockpit styles to fit, you seem to be limited to standard Cockpit Internationals or similar.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/15-8b8c6f95-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/14-a6871d3e-960w.jpg)
You are right the large single gauge pod is a GTi e option
I’ll dig out the options brochure I’ve got for mine
Xmas has come early for me... green bulb caps arrived today.
Quick mock up to see all's well before commiting to screwing everything back together again -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/green-960w.jpg)
Notable increase in GTIEngineering'ness on the forum recently.
Anyone who knows me will also know I've a Zender fetish and by default that also means an interest in GTiE, what with their heavy involvement in the brand during the 1980's and 1990's.
Also explains the origins of me re-creating the single gauge holder.
Helped having a stack of GTiE's brochures and sales stuff, but things have moved on since then with most of it gone to new homes by now.
Anyhow, because of that and a while ago I used the reference material to also re-create some tax disc holders and rear window stickers.
The disc holder was a close copy of an original, but the dealer sticker was pure fiction, even though it was based on genuine catalogue graphics / info.
They were professionally done on the proper 'cling' materials, so reusable but also proved quite expensive because of the small numbers involved.
There were about 10-15 of each and I kept back two sets for myself, with the intention of selling on the others to cover costs.
The spares are all long gone and if I had been doing it to make a profit, it wasn't really worth while if I'm honest... so before you ask, no there's no likelihood of a repeat I'm afraid.
The keyring was a much later thing. Got the kids a bag of 100 blank pieces off eBay for small change so they could make their own designs and stole a few when they weren't looking.
No effort was put into them, so not great graphics but something someone else could take further maybe.
These are the images I filed away from the sales, the first two are of what I believe to be genuine items that I filched from the inter-web, (hence small size).
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/index-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/IMG_0426.jpg%7Ec200-960w.jpg)
The sales photos -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/BOTH-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/disc+face-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/gti+face-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/DEALER+FRONT-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/DEALER+REVERSE-960w.jpg)
Fold over, printable key ring logo if you want to adjust / adapt it to make your own -
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/keyhatch-960w.jpg)
Absolutely baltic here for the last while, maybe manage 30 minutes in the garage before I get an ice cream headache and have to go in.
Not complaining, there's a lot more going on in the world than my tinkering with a car - trouble is it means even the smallest thing needed can be a two week wait by post so progress is slow on that level too.
When the missing stuff does appear should be able to stitch the interior back together again and have been getting things ready (indoors) in anticipation.
After deciding to tweak the gauge set up it meant moving the window switch panel down one on the center console - and it didn't like it.
Just a really poor fit, 1980's / 90's molding technology I suppose, but it meant it was just a little too wide for the opening and bowed out quite significantly.
Some trimming helped but didn't want to start any major surgery.
Polo 6n (and possibly the equivalent aged Seat Ibiza?) button blanks fit the VW panel perfectly, in place of the standard flush fitting MK2 ones. Look better to my eye and meant I didn't have to tamper with the originals either.
M6 bolt (10mm spanner) fits exactly into the rear slot of the blank preventing it turning when tightened.
Filled the same area with a bath of Araldite which prevents it pulling out.
Couple of aluminium strips pulling against the rear lip of the aperture and the panel gets drawn inwards, getting rid of the bow - makes for a nice quality feel too when operating the switches.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/console-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/console2-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/console1-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/console3-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/console4-960w.jpg)
Great little touch with the Polo switches. I'm glad you mentioned that, as I need some too.
Finished article looks great!
Maybe already something people do or know about but incase not...
Noticed that some early styles of Land Rover Discovery (and maybe others) window switches seem to be identical to MK2's.
Part number of the ones I've seen is AMR2496 - these have the square indentations on the face identical to the Golf but be aware there are others that have triangular indentations instead.
There's also a matching style of sunroof switch, part number AMR2471 - seems to just be a window switch other than the graphic is a square window and not the sloping one on the standard item.
If they are interchangable it's probably of little use anyway - MK2 switches seem to be plentiful / cheap enough so as not to have to find alternatives?
Just be interesting to know... but only if someone's in a position to try a swap over without going to any expense or trouble.
Not the most flattering angle and only partly finished.
Lesson learned on the Peugeot and decided early on that I was going to keep any interfering with the cars original wiring to the absolute minimum.
Plan is to effectively have a separate mini loom for all the new gauges (and a few other add ons) that's self contained and running directly from the battery itself.
Put a similar ancilliary fusebox into the Pug, this is just the next step up.
The RIPCA fuse box has 2 x positive bars ( 6 unconnected terminals each) and a single negative (12 x terminals) - the hope is I'll have 6 constant lives on one side and 6 ignition lives on the other, to cover all eventualities and future proof the car for any later add ons.
The Votex console moves the ash tray position and it now lives in what would be the cubby of a standard console. Means you have to make access in through the back to get to the ciggy lighter connection.
Still had to do this but will be extending the connections out as circled in one image.
Thinking is I can convert the lighter socket to its own permanent live so the bluetooth cassette player adapter can charge even the car's not on. Also frees up an ignition live / lights on live so I can feed the VDO illumination.
That ex-ciggy lighter ignition live will now switch a relay for one of the two new positive feeds (making it ignition live) from the battery, isolating it all from the cars own wiring - clear as mud!
The only real downside to all this is if a fuse blows it'll mean slipping the center console off to access the new fuse box, but that's just a few screws and the whole thing moves as one. I'll build in excess loom length so it can travel backwards without stressing any connections or wiring.
Probably put a fuse at the battery end of the 2 x positives as a belt and braces measure.
More to come, there's all the wiring for the single upper gauge plus the various engine bay sensor wires to add in yet.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/ripca-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/ripca1-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/ripca2-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/Votex+Rear1-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/Votex+Rear-960w.jpg)
as standard the cig lighter socket should be perm live. I was thinking changing mine, or adding second outlet on ignition live so when I have a dashcam plugged in I can leave it in all the time, it will just go to sleep when the power is cut (ignition off) and wake up when I start the car.
Great idea with the additional fusebox. I did a similar thing in my caravan, as I didn't want to interfere with the wiring, due to not really understanding the charging system mainly. I was able to run a 12v car stereo off this and put in some phone charging sockets. I thought I did a really neat job, used the caravan once after that before selling it - doh!
You're right, that's what I was expecting. Even read somewhere recently that up to and including some MK IV's had permanent live lighter wiring so it was a surprise.
There's a really obscure alarm / immobiliser in the car, looks to possibly even be from new. It appears to utilise a part of the original loom the ciggy lighter is part of.
Only guessing, as I can find no other explaination, but perhaps its installation has intentionally or otherwise changed things.
Don't want to turn the car over, it's been sat far too long to risk it without recommissioning first, so limited to ignition on only at the moment.
The alarm / immobiliser worked perfectly before all this and the person fitting it has done a top notch, professional job, it's just that there's only one electronic key and no way to get another - if it's lost or dies I'm stuck.
Ideally I'd remove it all for that reason alone but going to leave as is at the moment.
Plus side of giving the lighter it's own new supply is that it also adds it's own dedicated fuse. Useful if it'll be running chargers / other add-ons that might be beyond the original wiring.
Ever wish you hadn't started something... and since when did wire get to be so expensive?
Afternoon disappeared getting it done to the point it can probably be put back into the car (after a bench test away from the car first - just incase!)
Proof you shouldn't keep at something when you're tired - thought I was done, temporarily plugged it all in and zilch, messed about for 10 minutes, totally non-plussed as to what was wrong before I realised I hadn't put any fuses in, muppet.
Touch wood all seems to be OK... not pretty but have yet to tape up the various branches of the loom which'll help a little.
Won't ever be a thing of beauty but should be safe and work reliably - if you exclude the connections at the battery terminals the only points of contact with the cars original wiring are a switched live (from the existing fuse box - a vacant slot) to activate the relay plus the ciggy lighter terminal that feeds the lights on illumination all self contained otherwise.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/mess-960w.jpg)
This is marvellous bud!
Great attention to detail. Loving how clean your floors are. I had thought white ones (paint thinner?) always looked rougher under the carpets. My white corrado is a prime case - i've had to touch up lots of of exposed bits under the carpets.
Love that Gamma radio. I have just bought a Gamma 4 for my rado.
Cheers... I've the carpets and underlay up at the moment and noticed VW seem to have applied quite a thick bitumen type material in the foot wells before over painting it.
The final body coloued coat is a slightly more creamy shade in those areas than the rest of the floor pan, seems to be because of the bitumen beneath causing a slight reaction all these years later.
The 205 was apparently full body galvanized by the time mine was made and in fairness it's stood up to the test of time but the MK2's definitely leagues ahead as far as quality of materials and design go.
Picked up the Gamma donkeys years ago when they were still cheap, wouldn't be able to afford one now. The surrounds on their own now seem to fetch more than I paid for the whole lot posted from Germany!
Stuff's taking an eternity to arrive at the moment, piddley things are holding up moving on with the bigger jobs.
I've still my old Kenwood that I'd in a few cars reaching back to around the early 1990's.
It was a pretty good set up for it's time and would even run an optional CD multichanger which was a bit of big deal back then (but pretty pointless as I couldn't afford one.)
It's definitely a superior set up to the Gamma 3, which if I'm honest I'll only be putting in because it's OE and visually suits the dash.
The Kenwood has one of those after market cable adapters that allows it to plug straight into the existing VW wiring, so changing them about is an easy job if the notion takes me.
I foolishly thought I'd maybe be able to get a multichanger now that they're old tech. but they're surprisingly serious money and things like cables or CD cartridges can be equally pricey or hard to find.
Don't have many CD's anyway and nowadays even old ones (sorry, pre-loved) of those are fetching strong money too... worlds gone mad!
Saw this thing though - looks to be the same idea as the cassette adapter in the 205 and just as cheap, but it's hardwired in so no problems having to keep it charged.
eBay 13 PIN Adapter (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Bluetooth-Module-Audio-Aux-Cable-Adapter-Fit-For-Kenwood-13-Pin-CD-Stereo/224135132860?hash=item342f7eb6bc:g:qYUAAOSwcp5fR3N5)
I think some other brands (like Alpine?) ran the same number / pattern of pins for their inputs, it wasn't unique to Kenwood.
As a side note - If you have an older set and the display is orange some can be changed back and forward to green if you go into a sub menu.
I recall some Blaupunkts I had could do it and this Kenwood does too - in its case it's through the source button (src)... something to check on your own perhaps.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/13pin-960w.JPG)
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If you still want to keep a bit of Bluetooth for your mk2 with the Gamma, you can always install a Parrot hands free kit.
It can all be hidden behind the dash and as it interrupts the ISO connectors, it doesn't matter what head unit you have fitted.
I used it in mine and don't actually have a head unit at all, just connect my phone to the parrot and use that.
Definitely worth looking into - and there's me thinking I'd have a few spare slots in the new fuse-box to use in the future, all accounted for already!
Things are getting a bit out of sync. waiting on the small stuff to turn up so moving on to adding insulation / sound deadening while I'm in limbo.
I'd some of the heavy duty jute insulation and a few bitumen pads left over from doing the 205, mainly off cuts and odd shaped left overs so limited as to what was possible.
The Peugeot's never going to be quiet but it's not that far off modern standards and the doors now close with a thunk, almost Mercedes like!
In fairness the Golf's not too bad to start with, way better than the 205 was specially the underfloor insulation and there's already quite a few bitumen pads on the inside of the larger panels.
The only obvious scrimping I could see was under the rear seat and the rear 3/4 cavities.
After a clean up, the existing waxing is still in great shape but you can never have too much so put some extra Waxoyl in the join between the wheel tub / body panel and sill, just for good luck.
Added some new bitumen pads too but it's such a big void I thought I'd try and seal it off even more.
Didn't want to permanently glue anything... no plans to be in here again, but you never know. Also didn't want it to be capable of soaking up and holding moisture if there was ever a leak. Suspending it away from the outer panel and sill area, it's held and pulled in against the inner panel by straps attached to that black spar for the interior trim.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-6ba2bb90-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-b273b808-960w.jpg)
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(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-23a39caf-960w.jpg)
I find those jobs really satisfying, done mine when it came back from it's resto, before the rebuild.
Found myself going from panel to panel knocking on them, just to see if I could hear a difference!!
Saying as I'd virtually done it anyway went the whole way and stripped out the bulk of the interior just to satisfy myself there weren't any surprises.
Three decades of fluff and grit removed, but nothing more than that thankfully.
Waxoyled every nook and cranny plus cut the two types of insulation to shape... the light grey fleece like one is much, much thinner than the bitumen coated jute stuff but in combination with VW's own should do the trick.
Hopefully that's the ground work done that'll allow me to finally get the dash and new gauges plumbed in.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/26-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/24-960w.jpg)
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(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/10-960w.jpg)
This is incredible.
Great job bud! Makes me want to do mine like this.. but also I don't want to find any issues haha
That looks nice and clean. I hope you dont find you have a leak to mess it up.
Those grey plastic soundproofing mats seem to be filled with sand. I took mine out and temporarily put them in the garage. I was puzzled where the sand was coming from. One of the "cells" was leaking.
Had the same thing... looks like salt?
I wonder is it silica, the stuff that absorbs moisture, though if it is, I'm not sure how it'd work from inside the sealed plastic pockets.
Even it's just plain old sand it's likely a very good sound insulator, definitely attention to detail by VW.
Outstanding 1x VDO sender (oil temp.) which is holding me up, don't want to fit everything to discover later there's an issue.
In the mean time I've nigh on everything else sitting done so the final push to get the new loom and gauges in will be straightforward.
If it's at all possible I don't want to be cutting or drilling things that can't be replaced and found the following solution to getting things through from the cabin to the engine bay - might be useful to others as it's a simple job.
Can't vouch for non-RHD cars but on my UK car there's various plastic grommets on the bulkhead infront of the passenger side area, presumably where LHD cars have their brake bits fitted.
The largest is about 7.5 cm across so settled on it as the best access point... my new loom is probably too wide for some of the others.
Easy enough to take off and on plus it creates access very close to the center console area where the new loom is situated.
The bulkhead side looks like an area that may attract water meaning just cutting a hole in the VW grommet likely wouldn't do it.
Found this generic grommet on-line and while the dimensions didn't match the VW one thought it could be adapted.
As it turns out it's an easy job, water tight and fits exactly.
The VW item, pops out from the bulkhead side.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-d98e4541-1152w.jpg)
Generic grommet... that center 'pipe' pushs in or out from either side depending on what's intended.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-10360dfa-1152w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-9c36acfd-1004w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-76365d6a-1078w.jpg)
There's a 5mm groove around the new grommets circumference, if you leave a similar amount when trimming the VW item it'll create the seal needed.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-54d15fc3-1152w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/5-4bdcae1a-1106w.jpg)
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/6-d3b54f95-1064w.jpg)
Because the new grommet is wider on one face than the other the smaller side has to be pushed in from the rear but then fits the recess of the VW grommet perfectly.
Engine bay view.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/8-2bae8634-1083w.jpg)
Hidden side.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/9-ac424b59-1012w.jpg)
Where to get that particular grommet -
https://www.stmotorsport.net/product-page/bulk-head-panel-wiring-harness-grommet-rubber-seal (https://www.stmotorsport.net/product-page/bulk-head-panel-wiring-harness-grommet-rubber-seal)
That's really handy, I'm always using that hole for the ECU wiring when I do conversions and it's a right pain when I'm trying to keep everything water tight.
These seem to fetch a shocking price second-hand, are they really that hard to come by... an ideal one to be 3D printed maybe?
@Monkey If you're using these alot would you be able to print a circular flange of your own design that'd press into the larger bulkhead hole and accept the aftermarket rubber grommet?
That's a really good idea.
However, my hugely modifying car days are over, I've got my blue one and just got a red one that will be a straight up restoration.
Forging ahead with getting the interior back in... probably have to come out again when the inevitable teething problems arise but just too many big items like seats and carpets cluttering up work space, plus risking being damaged lying about.
Times like this I'm glad I've no hair to pull out - 4 x weeks now, waiting on VDO senders from Germany, held up at customs.
Not a very flattering picture, but for the sake of keeping the thread going - progress so far.
(https://lirp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-9f92239f-960w.jpg)
Very impressive sight, you'd almost want to take your shoes off before getting in!
Bit of sunshine here today so got more done than usual.
If it keeps up, hopeful the interior will be completely back in soon... at least I'll be able to sit in it and make vroom, vroom noises.
For different reasons it's been quite a while since I've signed into the forum (don't do Facebook etc.)... must be early April I think.
Despite everything still managed to get some work done on the car and will try to update the thread when able.
Feels like I've finally reached a bit of a turning point... car's literally been stripped of all its mechanicals / suspension etc,
Upside is that means the next stage is getting it sorted, back on and the beginning of a move in the right direction.
Bizarrely, as a few of the earlier posts show the interior is done and all in place.
Wasn't the plan to do things that way about but found a few exterior issues that needed sorting, then one thing lead to another and here I am.
Big learning process for me - two years ago I was congratulating myself on doing the coolant / oil and plugs on the 205... last night I took the engine out of the MK2.
Hopefully I'll be able to get the thread bump started again - I'm sure you're more interesting to see progress than dismantling.
As mentioned elsewhere, should be getting help from a local mechanic with things that are still way beyond my capabilities like welding / a clutch change etc. but so far been all my own work.
Because I'm doing it alone, taking photo's at different stages isn't always practicable, may be more the final shots when somethings done that you see.
I've had the car 12 odd years now and it's a keeper. Any work being done is for my benefit so I want to do it as well as I possibly can.
Unfortunately I don't have a bottomless pit of money and with each new job that usually means replacing something plus even the tools to do it, so can soak up your time sourcing things for the best price.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/Engine+Out-1920w.jpg)
You've had a little bit of the good, now a little bit of the bad!
One of the things that got me digging deeper was this hole in the driverside of the engine subframe, adjacent to the control arm mount / pivot point.
It's so uniform and round I initially thought it was meant to be there, but some poking showed definitely not.
Biggest concern was that it had rotted from the inside out and was likely much worse than it appeared. Decided the only proper thing to do was get it all out completely and as you can see it's not pretty.
With the whole assembly being quite corroded it was probably a false economy to try repairs, plus the effort and expense of cleaning / treating / painting would've added up so bit the bullet and got a new one... not overly expensive for what it is, but still dear enough and money I hadn't budgeted for.
Managed to get one for sub £100 delivered from Germany... you can pay twice that or more (for the same brand too) bought in the UK, so keep telling myself to look on the bright side.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/subframe+hole-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/subframe-1920w.jpg)
Unfortunately all of the running gear has quite extensive surface rust, but it's at it's worst around the front offside components.
I'm beginning to think the car has stood somewhere that allowed moisture to rise up from underneath as the bodyshell is 99% rust free.
When you see the subframe and rear beam for example, sitting to one side, you'd think they were off another car altogether.
Early on I'd decided if possible to change out everything that it was practicible to do... I like a car to be original but when it comes to mechanical parts safety takes over.
Probably could've revived some of the bits, but definiely not others -
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/front+carriers-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/rear+susp.-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/drive+shafts-1920w.jpg)
This side is seized up, it's only one of two bolts on the whole car that I haven't been able to get undone (yet).
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/rear+beam+bush-1920w.jpg)
Strange you should mentioned the difference in the NS/OS conditions, I've found exactly the same on my restoration.
Had to do a load of repair work to the offside of the car, but the near side is nigh on spotless!
When I was taking the rear shocks / springs out there was an ominous crunching noise as the nearside one came away - my heart sank, expecting to see the strut tower top had come off with it.
Fortunately it was only the spring disc - bizarre that it should have deteriorated to such an extent and not have had any impact on the body shell... it's still like new, any marks you see rubbed off.
Wasn't immediately obvious - I'd recommend checking before it becomes a real problem,
All the bits are readily available from the usual suspects like Febi and Meyle for relatively small money.
Taking the rear assembies out is very straight forward and no special tools required, the springs aren't even under tension.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/Cap-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/sus+top-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/sus+below-1920w.jpg)
If you needed to know who the OE shock supplier was (or one of them at any rate), it was Sachs -
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/sachs-1920w.jpg)
Noticed the rear springs have a single green paint mark - which I can't find listed, however the front ones have a single orange mark and correct to PB GTI's according to '7Zap'.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/shock+F-1920w.jpg)
Fronts - https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/golf/go/1991-110/4/411-102000/ (https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/golf/go/1991-110/4/411-102000/)
Rears - https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/golf/go/1991-110/5/511-106010/#13 (https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/golf/go/1991-110/5/511-106010/#13)
Those spring platforms are a pretty common issue, especially nowadays, I encountered my first one in 2000 when the car was only 9 years old!
I'd say it's probably the location, those caps get absolutely hammered with water/salt/mud, but pretty rarely get rinsed off during a normal car wash.
It would also explain why VW moved to separated shocks and springs for the mk4 platform.
I wouldn't say I'm a mug when it comes to looking a car over. When I went to see this one I'd a good root around and had a fair idea what it's problem were, but if you're a MK2 novice it's highlighting things like this that are useful to future buyers and worth sharing.
I'm only playing at being a mechanic... there's no time pressures or someone else to please nor am I relying on making a living from it, so in that context it's probably easy to say, but I'm really getting into learning / doing more and more.
It's also adding something extra to owning the car... when you're taking it right back to it's individual parts, fixing or replacing and putting it back together you start to get more of an attachment to it.
Regret not getting into this side of things sooner, yes it's daunting at first, but if you've even a small understanding of mechanical things it's doable and very rewarding.
Don't get me wrong, I'm hugely impressed at the effort and attention to detail you go into with your cars.
Just looking to give you a bit of background information on what you've found.
I too am just an amateur, playing at being a mechanic on weekends, I just forgot to move away from the mk2 golf!
I only got into mechanics as I couldn't afford to service my car when I was in college, so I bought a haynes manual and had a go at it.
In fact, it's this thread (among a couple others) that inspired me to do the stock restoration on the red one.
Back to the spring top issue, it's a very easy one to miss, it's very much buried in the depths of the car.
Thinking about it, it's probably an issue that has been very much forgotten nowadays, due to every man and their dog running coilovers. Their spring caps are almost always aluminium and not suffering anywhere near as much.
S**t, I must've worded that badly and you've thought I was taking offence?
Definitely not the case - all advice gratefully received, really sorry if it came across differently.
Looking back on buying the MK2 I was so, so lucky the guy selling it was 100%, it could've ended very differently.
Knowing the cars a little better now it's easy to forget that all the common (and not so common) weaknesses might not be immediately obvious to someone new to MK2's.
Plus side is MK2's seem to be getting like MGB's - you can virtually build a new one from remanufactured parts, just need someone to start 'Heritage' body shells!
No worries, one of the reasons I like forums so much is the information stays out there.
On Facebook, you get instant gratification, but nothing stays on.
The amount of posts people have started about E10 fuel is ridiculous!
I'd love to build a 'new' mk2. Imagine rocking up to a show with a small bumper 21 plate with 50 miles on the clock!
So... bit of a bottleneck at the moment. Mechanic dude who's calling to do some welding and other bits'n'bobs is on holiday and it'll be a few weeks before he's back.
Having to amuse myself on isolated, piecemeal jobs rather than squander my own time waiting so working in and around the rear beam at the moment.
It was actually a relatively straight forward job getting it out, luckily no rusted in bolts etc. but with a jack and forward planning a one person job.
Like most of the other suspension parts it didn't look too bad insitu but out of the shadows it was a different story.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/rear+beam+bush-97c938b9-1920w.jpg)
If like me this was the first time you truly examined your beam, this is what those bushes should look like -
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/Beam+Bushes-1920w.jpg)
So far only 2 x bolts have defeated me and these are the ones you see here, holding the bushes / beam arm to the brackets.
Fortunately they're accessible to an angle grinder and splitting the nut lengthways and knocking the two halves off let the big hammer do its work. Replacements are easily got, Febi for example do them for small money... some other bolts I'd be less inclined to sacrifice as they can either be difficult to find and expensive if you do.
If you've read the post I did elsewhere about the rust remover, these if proof were needed is that the stuff mentioned works.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/beam+bracket-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/beam+bracket+2-1920w.jpg)
Want to press out the old bushes before re-doing the beam itself, but unfortunately don't have the tools needed.
Looking at different pullers etc. at the moment but I'm no expert and don't want to invest in something that's not suitable
Might pay a little more for the right thing as it'll likely get some use on other MK2 jobs, plus the MK1 when the time comes and 205.
Someone else's done this particular job?
You can get the bushes out using normal tools.
I did this on Tims youtube video...
https://youtu.be/Dg-KbVQO-GM?t=487
For the rear beam bush removal, just drill all the rubber out the centre, may snap the odd drill bit so have a few, once drilled all the way through on both sides and all the way around the centre will fall out.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZzYCSKJ/DSC-0205.jpg)
Then all that is left is the outer metal bush frame.
(https://i.ibb.co/G7j87kS/DSC-0206.jpg)
I used a electric recip saw with a metal blade to carefully cut through this making sure not to cut into the beam. A hacksaw would work too just more effort! Once cut all the way through it will release the tension enough to just tap it out.
(https://i.ibb.co/JzQyHQp/DSC-0210.jpg)
I did this with the beam just lowered slightly under the car, so will be even easier off the car. I replaced with powerflex items so no pressing in required. But you could definitely get the old ones out without a press and the clean/paint beam etc before getting someone to press in the new bushes. Hope this helps.
Jordan
Well, armed with all the above I'd a stab at taking them off earlier this afternoon... and they're gone!
Took a while, think mine must've been on since new and put up quite a fight, even had to get a metal chisel and lump hammer out in the end.
Didn't get as far as watching new ones being refitted, save that for bedtime. Fair play tackling that job while they were on the car, it was tough enough going even being able to manoeuver the beam around to get at the bushes.
Looked too at the Powerflex ones, didn't realise they just slotted in - that alone might've tempted me (they're a bit expensive!), but I'd already splashed out on some regular ones.
Thanks again all - one more job closer to being done.
Beam (less bushes), de-rusted / treated and painted... just need to find somewhere in the house, out of the way and safe to keep it!
Managed to find some one who'd post phosphoric acid to N.Ireland, plus it was the 85% stuff.
Quite a few are 35% or 45% (and likely some are even more dilute), worth double checking if you're getting some.
Worked out at £1 less for a litre of it than the cost of 2 x 500 ml of the Rust HG.
Can't find out for sure what percentage strength the pre-prepared HG one is but judging by the improved effect the 85% stuff had when painted neat onto the beam I'd say it's quite a bit less.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/beam-1920w.jpg)
New rear engine mount bracket has arrived -
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/frame+and+mount-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/new+mount-1920w.jpg)
Great work, you don't hang around!
It helped that I'd it already 90% stripped back before deciding to do the bushes, God bless whoever invented the flappy disc... have to keep going though, if I stopped now I'd probably never start again.
Sort of only had to half do the 205, as it was an old restoration and the vast majority of the work was stripping / checking and replacing... this has brought it home just the volume of work needed when you're starting from scratch.
It's the wee jobs that're so time consuming... getting even the most basic of parts can take weeks,so I'm juggling umpteen jobs in the air at one time rather than sitting on my hands.
Going to stick up some images of the smaller jobs I've already done... for the sake of completeness and to keep the thread going - the bigger jobs are on the cards now but they aren't all that interesting to see until they're done.
Like I said elsewhere, it's awkward taking pics as you work so being on my own it'll mainly be the finished article you'll see.
Didn't intend to post them, they were taken on the advice of an insurance assessor to help with the valuation if / when the car's done.
Randomly -
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/ecm1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/ecm-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/amp-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-52736eae-1920w.jpg)
Got a complete refurb. kit from Germany... it's not all pictured, but still worked out quite a bit cheaper than just buying the bits I needed individually.
As it turned out they were a collection of mainly Febi items plus a few other well known names.
Some pieces won't be needed, such as the ball at the base of the gear stick... mines still like new and you need to push out a roller pin to replace it which could end up being a needless faff / cause problems where none exist.
If you're considering replacing the orange bush that's behind the riveted on metal plate - I tried pushing it in but it was just too tight and risked tearing, easiest solution I found was to drill them out and redo.
I'd recommend you looking into this job, there was quite a bit of slack taken away with the new parts, plus some of the originals had noticibly hardened with time.
Don't know why I'd it in my head that the weighted shift rod would be smaller, quite a surprise to see how big and heavy it is in the flesh.
There'd been a build up of grease on the floor of the gear lever 'box' that'd attracted fluff, dust and dirt... don't think it was affecting anything but replacing the old for fresh stuff might help things further.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/Shift+Bushes-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/Shift+Box-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/Shift+Box1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/gear-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/weight1-1920w.jpg)
This was one job I did quite early on, partly because I'd read so many horror stories about it and wanted to see how things stood but also the petrol tank came out at the beginning too, (to see what was lurking beneath) and it made sense to remove the ancilliaries with it.
A week of penetrating oil every day thankfully meant no broken floor fixings, but heart in mouth stuff... everything's so fragile and seems virtually impossible to replace nowadays. Why did they make it so light weight and then put it somewhere it was guaranteed to rot out?
The metal frame seems to have taken the worst of it over the years, ironically if it'd been plastic like all the other stuff it might've faired better. Came up OK to stripping / treating, but never going to look like new then who's going to see it again I suppose.
One thing you can still get are those rubber mounting pieces, think these one's were Meyle.
The green ring seal for the pump seemed a bit hard, they're some odd size according to 7Zap and also need to be a certain material to withstand fuel. In light of E10, that's probably even more important than ever.
Can't remember the specifics now, have the details somewhere, but found a guy on eBay who had generic ones of the correct material but they were something minuscule like 0.1 mm out from VW's spec. - seem to fit OK, but time will tell. Kept the original just incase.
Soooo tempting fate, but post clean-up it all seems to run OK on the bench, doubtless that'll change when back on the car.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/fuel+pump+5-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/fuel+pump+6-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/fuel+pump+4-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/fuel+pump-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/fuel+pump+3-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/fuel+pump+2-1920w.jpg)
Good work, both are on my to do list and you've reminded me I need to pull my fuel pump off before the shell goes to paint!
I am interested to know parts like your ecu is that restored or as removed.
scs
That's it after a clean up - the ECU itself I can't do much with other than that, but the likes of the frame / bracket and amplifier I can take off and refinish if needs be.
Not sure about MK2's, but I'm guessing it's the same principle for any similar set up where the amp. is on a heat sink.
On 205's it's essential you clean off and replace the thermal paste if you part them, otherwise it can create problems down the line.
Things like the fuel pump I can take apart that wee bit more... not always possible, but I do try to replace any seals / nuts'n'bolts etc. on top of cleaning what I can.
The original rubber blocks were completely shot, just split into pieces and the metal parts crumbled to nothing - don't cost too much so well worth doing on their own even you don't go any further.
Talking about the O ring for the fuel pump made me go back and look at it again.
7Zap gives the original as N 90312402 for my '91 8v PB and a spec. of 42 x 5.3 mm, no mention of anything else about it unfortunately.
Apparently green is a generally used / recognised colour for a material called 'Viton', though that's not a hard and fast rule so only use it as a guide.
I did try to find some genuine ones at the time though they were either no longer available or that Greek seller on eBay had some, but postage was astronomical.
I found a German place that supplied 42 x 5.3 rings however they turned out to be 'Nitrile' (also known as NBR) which has different properties and depending on what you read may or may not be reliable in fuel enviroments.
I still can't properly get my head around all the differences and suitabilities of the various materials.
Then there's something called 'Shore', which I think is basically how flexible they are, adding to the confusion. If it's too hard, won't seal properly, too soft and they tear.
Upshot was I could find rings of the correct measurement, but not material and rings of the right material but ever so slightly smaller (0.3 mm) diameter.
'Viton' is apparently ethanol resistant - though E10 wasn't a consideration back in 1991 I'm guessing VW intentionally specced it and the fact it still exceeds standards is a happy coincidence.
Like I said above, my original ring seemed quite hard (steady!) but now that I've gotten new ones of the same material, they're as equally so.
The new ones are 42 x 5.0 and 'Viton' - they fit with no effort and seem to seal perfectly, but I've yet to run fuel through it on the car... I can fall back on the original if needs be.
If your original is shot and you're stuck for a replacement might be worth trying out these replacements and letting us know how you get on - would be a good source for others if they work fine.
Price was for four, he may sell them individually also -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324071776172 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324071776172)
(https://volkswagen.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/images//Bilder/092/092068100.png)
Edd China would be proud!
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/cam+cover-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/sump-1920w.jpg)
This was pretty much how it came out of the tank other than to give it a wipe over and run it on the bench - spun like a sewing machine.
I was expecting to be looking for a new one, even the seals all seem spot on too, though if I've time and remember / they're available, will maybe look into replacing them as a precaution.
Might have been because the tank was completely dry of fuel, not so much as a drop, having sat for a decade?
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/intank+pump2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/intank+pump3-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/intank+pump-1920w.jpg)
These may be in another post, if not probably lost to the the old forum.
Metal MK3 reflector body solution to the problem of scorched plastic MK2 ones...
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/hellafog2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/hellafog-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/hellafog1-1920w.jpg)
That pesky green 'O' ring I mentioned in the 'not so obvious service items' post.
Well worth looking at and sorting at your leisure if needs be... sods law says you'll only find out it's stuck when it's too late and you're wanting to adjust the dizzy.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/dizzy-1920w.jpg)
Thought I'd followed the schematic and accounted for everything, but missed this one - No. 6 - Part 321 512 109
(https://volkswagen.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/images//Bilder/014/014106100.png)
Described as an underlay, looks like the bottom of the spring rests on it to protect the lower spring disc (No. 5).
Googling suggests it's not readily available, though for the first time in a long time ECS actually seem to stock something I'm after -
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/packing/321512109/ (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/packing/321512109/)
(https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/94813_x800.webp)
For what it is, a piece of pressed tin, it's quite expensive to have a pair sent from the US... working out at about £25.00 delivered (and also assuming HMRC don't get involved, then you can probably double that with admin. costs).
Found this very similar item, does the same job in much later VW's - part # is very similar.
https://www.reformauto.ru/brand/vag/volkswagen-audi-gruppe/vag-1j0512109/ (https://www.reformauto.ru/brand/vag/volkswagen-audi-gruppe/vag-1j0512109/)
(https://www.reformauto.ru/wa-data/public/shop/products/37/09/2100937/images/122421/122421.600.jpg)
Unfortunately can't find specs. for either one on-line to see if they would interchange and save me spending 10 times what I might need to.
Anyone know of a cheaper source of the original 321 512 109 or if the later 1J0 512 109 and it are one in the same?
If I compare what I believe part 5 is on my Koni adjustable rears then that part is made out of plastic. The Konis have multiple grooves on the strut to allow for use with different length springs ie the spring plate rests on a circlip that fits in the groove but isn't in this diagram.
£25 seems a little excessive for the part but that might be down to low demand leading to limited supply. Surely there is a more cost effective option that doesn't compromise safety?
About the fuel pump, I'd say it's possibly not the original item.
Judging by the year of your car, I would have thought it would have had West Germany stamped on it when new.
This one could be an oe replacement?
I reckon my car was build around August '91 and was re-unification in 1990?
I was also guessing the 27/91 maybe denoted the week/year of manufacture (July '91) which would tie in, but could be wrong there... plus goodness knows what's happened in it's life before I got involved, so could very well have been replaced.
Never thought of MK2's in that context before, it's an interesting thought.
Could open up a whole new can of worms like the Type 19 debate and start a fresh one about what constitutes a pre / post re-unification car!
If I compare what I believe part 5 is on my Koni adjustable rears then that part is made out of plastic. The Konis have multiple grooves on the strut to allow for use with different length springs ie the spring plate rests on a circlip that fits in the groove but isn't in this diagram.
£25 seems a little excessive for the part but that might be down to low demand leading to limited supply. Surely there is a more cost effective option that doesn't compromise safety?
In fairness to ECS the postage (which in itself isn't all that bad considering it's crossing the Atlantic) makes up a third of the cost, the bit's themselves are about £8.00 each, but when you can get the later part for around £4.00 each at a dealer they definitely do work out expensive by comparison.
It's an odd one... I've since got rid of the old shocks and can't check if there was one on them, don't recall seeing anything similar and I even took them apart out of curiosity, but they may well have rotted away.
The new shocks came with a new base plate, plastic cap and 3 x nuts plus a spacer which I assume is what they reckon you need to change with the shock itself. In that case surely they would've included No. 6 also if important?
It may well partly act to protect the spring / base from pressing against one another but might it also allow for any rotation between the two when things are under load? I'd imagine that'd be more important, being a sacrifical barrier preventing them grinding into one another, just guessing?
You can buy everything else you see in the schematic using the 7Zap quoted part numbers on Autodoc and the like with the exception of No. 6 which must be significant - is it an item that's since been decided unnecessary and not on later part databases?
That seems to have happened with Part 4. which is now shown as a M10 self locking nut on the schematic when it was originally that clip (the first 'test your knowledge' item) and captive standard hex nut from the factory.
I reckon my car was build around August '91 and was re-unification in 1990?
I was also guessing the 27/91 maybe denoted the week/year of manufacture (July '91) which would tie in, but could be wrong there... plus goodness knows what's happened in it's life before I got involved, so could very well have been replaced.
I don't know why, but for some reason I thought you had a small bumper car!
That's how I usually tell what parts came from pre and post 90 spec cars.
So yeah, almost certainly the original pump, good to see it's still working well.
The pre/post unification debate would be a good grenade to thrown into Facebook on a Friday night and watch the carnage...
Trial fitted all the rear shock bits and there doesn't look to be very much scope for Part 6 to fit... even if it's quite thin, the spring base and Part 5 are already a snug fit.
If it is needed and is as light a piece of metal as its images suggests, I'm not convinced it's up to acting simply as a barrier between the two.
I'm leaning instead towards thinking it rotates with the spring and prevents it digging into the base. The spring end is just a cut off and sharp edged. If it is necessary that there be some rotational movement in use and it can't get it becuase it's dug in, could end up putting it under undue stress.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/shock2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/shock1-1920w.jpg)
Waiting for someone to come to me so as little bits of welding can be sorted, probably be a few more weeks 'till that happens so was amusing myself on other random jobs.
Gearbox is split from the engine - same welder / mechanic should be changing the clutch in time.
You should all know what an the clutch release bearing looks like by now, here's the old one along with the original lever rod, thought you'd like to see the wear from 75K of gear changes.
Not too pronounced I think,. The rod doesn't seem worn at all, at either end though I don't have a new one to compare it to and am relying on inter-web images.
The arm (not pictured) isn't worn at all, presumably the release bearing takes the brunt of it.
I see Tierod and others do semi-complete kits with all the above and a few bits more, inc. the green lid if you need everything
My lid was the original VW embossed one, broke my heart to prise it off - replacements seem to be just plain, unless you know differently?
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/bearing1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/bearing2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/bearing3-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/bearing4-1920w.jpg)
Picked this master cylinder up on eBay a few months ago.
I wasn't particularly looking for one and I think my original will be perfectly good when cleaned up and I believe service kits are available if needed.
It'd been up for quite a while with no takers, mainly I think because it's got 4 x ports (if that's the right term?) and not the regular 2 on the standard item.
I checked out the part numbers etc. etc. and while it's a bit hazy now they did show it would fit providing those 2 x surplus ports were plugged off.
Turns out these can be easily bought so I took a punt on it with a cheeky offer.
Haven't looked into brakes in too much detail so far but from what I've read did I understand correctly that you can redo the existing 2 x port brake pipe lay out to make use of the 4 x ports?
Does that in effect give each corner a dedicated brake line as opposed to them being shared in the origial lay out.
Presumably the 4 x ports are there for some applications (heavier vehicles such as diesels?)
Obviously extra work / expense involved but ignoring that, on a practical level what impact would dedicated individual ports have on brake performance?
Would it merely share the load more evenly or might it even be too effective and upset other aspects of the existing system?
Like I say, other than the additional ports it's the same dimensions / specs. as the stardard item and that's the original resevoir you see fitted - does so perfectly as does the cylinder itself to the servo.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/MC-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/MC1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/brakeresv2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/brakeresv-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/brakeresv1-1920w.jpg)
Not quite sure what you are saying about 2 extra ports? It has 4 outlets yes?? Well a GTI uses 4 on a split system, looking form the front of the car front right port is FR brake, rear right port is RR brake, front left port is RL brake and rear left port is FL brake, it's spilt front and rear so if one fails you still have diagonal braking as I understand it.
Sorry Bill... outlets was the word I should have used and not ports.
Should also really have posted this up after I'd done a bit more background reading, but it's done now.
This is the original with it's 2 x outlets -
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/MC+old-1920w.jpg)
My old brake pipes are in a muddle having been moved about countless times since taking them off the car and I'm struggling to visualise what goes where from them.
It's not a problem as they were marked / tagged, but I don't fancy spending an hour trying to fathom it all out just to answer a hypothetical question.
For the sake of talking, assume then that the master cylinders are identical save for those 2 x additional outlets on the new one.
Can't find them at the moment but I've some purpose made blanking screws that I was going to use to seal off the extra outlets and connect the existing brake pipe layout to - straight forward to do (hopefully !)
If I've understood correctly the 2 outlet set up means the first outlet is supplying one half of the diagonal system (F/R + R/L) and the second outlet the remaining F/L + R/R ?
Would having 4 x outlets mean you could feed each F + R brake individually, assuming the pipe work lay out was changed to match ?
If that's possible, what benefits would it have ?
I was also wondering maybe the 4 x outlets simply accomodate the master cylinder being sited on the other side for LHD... just a thought.
Should maybe say my car does NOT have ABS... do they have 4 x outlets?
ABS one is completely different, it's interesting because checking 7zap the cylinder shown for a CE2 car i.e big bumper is a 4 port one?
Only way you would supply each corner individually is if you had 4 seals in inside and the ports would run inline, the 4 port one will be the same as the 2 port one, the only difference is the 2 port one uses those 3 way splitters you see on the bulkhead I believe to split front/rear on the same plunger.
If you are renewing all the pipes the 4 port one would be handy as it would tidy it up as you will just have one line to each corner with no splitters.
When I was double checking the part numbers before I bought it I came upon an article about 4x outlet MC's on a MK2... b***gered if I can find it again, and didn't really read it properly at the time so can only half remember what it said.
It'd be painless and easy to just fit it as a 2 x outlet, but since I have it and will be re-doing all the pipes anyhow might be worth looking further into a 4 outlet system.
Things like how that'll impact on the rear compensator and other unforeseen issues may decide it for me - don't want to create any needless expense.
If doable, would a 4 outlet system have any significant advantages over a 2 outlet, bearing in mind everything else will be stock and the car's going to lead a gentle life?
When I was double checking the part numbers before I bought it I came upon an article about 4x outlet MC's on a MK2... b***gered if I can find it again, and didn't really read it properly at the time so can only half remember what it said.
It'd be painless and easy to just fit it as a 2 x outlet, but since I have it and will be re-doing all the pipes anyhow might be worth looking further into a 4 outlet system.
Things like how that'll impact on the rear compensator and other unforeseen issues may decide it for me - don't want to create any needless expense.
If doable, would a 4 outlet system have any significant advantages over a 2 outlet, bearing in mind everything else will be stock and the car's going to lead a gentle life?
Won't be an issue with the compensator as both rear pipes will still be going to it individually.
Advantages are I would imagine it being a lot tidier on the bulkhead as really the only pipe you should see is the one going to the n/s front, the rest will be hidden, chance of less leaks as not using splitters, possibly better pressure as direct piping.
It's just the same set up really just doing away with the splitters, possibly uses less piping too.
Think I'll look into it a bit more, if even only out of interest.
Sounds like it may be just complicating things for no real advantage, plus the original MC will be redundant to me, even as a spare if I commit to different pipework... pros and cons.
Thought you might be interested in seeing an actual pic. of my car.
Before you get too excited it's a scan from a print-off of the 2010 local forum advert I bought it from - make sense!
Different registration on it now, was originally J303 OVU (get in touch if you've any history with that car before then)...
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/OVU-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/OVU1-1920w.jpg)
Think I'll look into it a bit more, if even only out of interest.
Sounds like it may be just complicating things for no real advantage, plus the original MC will be redundant to me, even as a spare if I commit to different pipework... pros and cons.
I did a bit of research and it appears that most MC's supplied now are 4 port and you do indeed blank off one front and rear but I would personally use all 4 as the splitters on the bulkhead look awful, I also saw that you can use a Cupra R MC 24mm one but you have to file about 3mm off the nub in the servo.
Gearbox cleaned up... temptation was to just keep going and take it a stage further but sense prevailed.
No leaks or issues before the car came off the road and it would just risk creating problems where none previously existed.
Sensible (and easily done at this stage) things such as the clutch / release bearing / reverse switch etc. will be the exceptions.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-a9edc4d4-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-42029657-1920w.jpg)
Monkey's is bigger than mine, having some engine stand anxiety issues this AM!
Superficial clean up and things don't look too bad to my inexperienced eye... visiting mechanic can't find anything glaringly wrong either but in time the plan is to take things apart more to check properly... fingers crossed.
Head went to a local machine shop to be checked over and things like valve guides etc replaced
According to them everything was spot on and nothing over and above a general refurb. required.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-277ee731-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/block-1920w.jpg)
That's a new one engine stand envy.
scs
Hahaha! Engine stand envy!!
If it makes you feel better, I've got major workshop envy, your floor looks like you could eat off it!
I'm over compensating - reality is it's the only clean corner, where the MK2 sat for a decade while all around it things got more and more minging.
Welder came yesterday for an hour or two and we made a start on some of the patches.
Going to take a few sessions as the works quite intricate and time consuming as a result.
Early days then, but so far seems to be going in our direction - photos hopefully soon!
In the mean time, and as I've the interior mostly out again I took the opportunity to remove the brake servo so as to allow me to check behind it and give it a bit of a refresh.
I'm 100% confident it has never been off before, it was still held on by those crush nuts VW seem to have used from the factory for safety critical items plus you can just tell!
Bit of a mystery then that it was a direct fit to the bulkhead other than a very light circular seal... no rubber grommet or intermediate metal plate as pictured at 10 and 2A in the schematic.
(https://volkswagen.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/images//Bilder/070/070114100.png)
Piccy of actual items from an eBay seller.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/CfsAAOSwvWtgJkxW/s-l1600.jpg)
Anyone else found them absent, maybe a late model thing and redundant by the end of production?
The bulkhead apperture is the shape to accept the seal, but I suppose even they changed specs. no need for the expense of changing the metalwork also.
There's absolutely no corrosion / leaking etc. so presumably having it makes no difference.
That's odd, I'm sure I had them on my ones.
This is all mine has... it's made of that type of foam used for pipe lagging and really light.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/servo+seal-1920w.jpg)
Fits about the base in a groove.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/servo+seal+2-1920w.jpg)
Right size to seal things and presumably works.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/servo+app-1920w.jpg)
Just went ahead and bought the plate / seal from that eBay seller... for the sake of £12 it'll doubly make sure things stay water tight, plus it'd be a nightmare of a job to do if needed after everything's all back together.
No connection to them... but even though the bits were listed as used they were probably in better nick than new having been powder coated.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/serv-1920w.jpg)
Bit of lull recently... some delays due to relying on the welding being done and a few mechanical bits that were either beyond my current capabilities or I didn't have the tools to do myself - things like the bushes for the front engine support plus the main ones in the rear beam.
But all done now and can forge ahead with beginning to put things back on as opposed to taking them off!
Didn't waste too much time and managed to get quite a few unrelated jobs done that are sitting ready and waiting.
One was finishing the re-texturing of the exterior black plastic, you might remember I did the rear bumper eons ago and it's stood the test of time.
When I was doing the rear offside side strip found this handwritten note on the inside, a few random numbers but to my eye that's a date - 26.6.91
Would tie in with the date marks on other bits that I know are original, plus the cars VIN corresponds to a final build date of 30/8/91.
(My avatar is a copy of the paint inspection sticker - it's showing as being done on the 23/8/91)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/writing1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/writing2-1920w.jpg)
From a week or two ago - Engine bay cleaned up and wiring loom has since been recovered in cloth tape after this photo.
That leads me on to a (hopefully) small problem.
While in the bin bag quite a few of the labels that I was relying on to identify what goes where have become unreadible.
I suspect the sharpie pen ink has reacted to solvent fumes in the air captured by the bag and become blurred.
A lot of them I recognise but you may still be getting a few unintended posts testing your knowledge!
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/bay2-1920w.jpg)
Getting ahead of myself - something that was done while waiting for the welding to finish.
The metal plates the headlights attach to I put through the rust bath of phosphoric acid.
There wasn't actually any rust on them, but I've found if you let certain types of metal soak for 5 - 10 mins they take on that grey plated appearance. Don't leave them in too long though, if they're previously galvanised it'll start to strip that off. Get it right and it tidies up the looks and more importantly acts as future rust prevention
If you're looking new fixing screws for the light frame (8 needed - not fitted in these pics) to the slam panel they're part # N01-388-73, but instead of paying VW prices you can get 20 identical ones here eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371141212853?var=640541843491) for the a little over £4 posted (No. 12 - 5.5x16mm)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/grille-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/grille1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/grille3-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/grille2-1920w.jpg)
You are nuts but it will be amazing when it’s done
You have an amazing attention for detail. Your car is as good as new.
scs
Oh and I still have a mark where I took off the headlight adjustment sticker , it wasn’t supposed to be on my 88 after I had spent ages sourcing one
Thanks but I've had it in bits for over ten years now and should be embarrassed!
The larger of the front engine cross member pieces was in OK nick, needed treated and re-done but structurally fine.
The lighter piece was reasonablly OK too, but had what looked like quite heavy surface rust on the under side.
Heritage had Klokkerholm copies for just over £30 (since gone up to £50) so seemed like a cost effective option when you factor in the time and cost of materials if preping / treating / painting the original.
Unfortunately their delivery times stretched from weeks to months and it now looks like they're semi-unavailable almost everywhere.
I see VW are doing 'originals' now (big money, in the hundreds), wonder have they withdrawn permission for repos?
Forced me to re-look at it and once again the phosphoric acid came to the rescue - it never ceases to amaze me just what a transformation this stuff can achieve.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/xmember1-1920w.jpg)
Should have taken a 'before' pic. to convince you - here's the slam panel instead, only took images in advance of it to remind me what went where / sticker locations etc. It wasn't anywhere near as bad as the cross member so transformation isn't as dramatic, the latch came up particularly well, though in fairness it was taken off to get some extra TLC.
(Sticker locations has the potential to be another MK2 nerd subject - I'm a very late 1991 car and the placement does differ from images of other younger cars - wonder was it an intentional thing, age or spec. related, maybe even where it was manufactured?)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/slam+before-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/slam+under-1920w.jpg)
Just a reminder of how bolts respond to a session in it, not only strips any corrossion but plates them in a grey rust inhibitor.
These are the PAS rack set, replacing them wouldn't be easy / cheap so well worth taking the effort to resurrect them...
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/pas+bolts-1920w.jpg)
Looks like we're all sorting out gear linkages out together!
Foam on mine was shot - crushed, greasey and sticky, maybe yours is too?
Googled the part number and VW replacements seem to be supplied as a strip now, not the originals gasket type make up... 7Zap gives the dimensions as 15 x 10 mm.
Generic stuff on eBay to the same measurements, shape it yourself by cutting in a few 'V's' and save some money.
The adhesive on this particular stuff is very strong, don't see it easily coming adrift.
eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255036718392)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/foam-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/foam2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/foam1-1920w.jpg)
Can't wait to see this thing in the metal when it's done!
Change in the weather has unfortunately also meant a change in momentum, so not much new done.
Have been half heartedly test fitting some of the assemblies to double check all's well and nothing's missing.
Engine subframe, touch wood, is OK so far but I can't find the cross member to chassis leg bolts anywhere.
If push comes to shove, I can get replacements but be sods law the originals turn up after spending £25+ I don't want to on four new ones.
Shouldn't be a surprise at the difference the new cross member rubber bushes made... was even a bit of an effort bolting the upper and lower parts together now that they're no longer worn out / compressed.
The front engine mount was changed too, the existing one I suspect wasn't the VW original as it appeared to be in OK nick, but since everything else was getting refreshed and they don't cost alot would've been pointless not to.
I'm going to waxoyl the inside cavity of the lower part and the underside of the upper part when the time comes, judging from the previous surface rust those seem to be the most vulnerable areas.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/xmemberB-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/xmemberA-1920w.jpg)
Tripping over things and losing track of what's, what and where it is so decided to start putting things back on.
Doubtless they'll all be off again in no time and maybe even more than once but it's good practice and I'll get to know MK2's inside, out.
Took a stack of piccies this afternoon when I was having a breather, but the half of them didn't come out very well.
Not that riveting to look at, but remember they were taken for proof of work when the car's eventually valued for insurance.
(Nothings tightened up as a result, some bolts for example may not even the right way around - just set in place so as to be accounted for.)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a6-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a11-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a13-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a12-1920w.jpg)
My god this is going to be epic, hoping you will be taking a dander up to Derry when it's done ;-)
Way things are going we'll all be at least a year older by then Bill!
Well I ain't getting any younger lol.
You might want to check the reviews of Waxoyl type products. I have an old Practical Classics mag and the traditional Waxoyl didn't fair well for longevity Bilt Hambler and Rustbuster products did.
You don't want the dreaded tinworm returning too soon.
It's more a belt and braces thing, me being over the top and putting protection on top of protection.
I think with cars like the MK2 the secret's maintaining the protection with regular inspections / re-treatment as required, not like modern cars that seem to be able to go for years without anyone lifting a finger to them.
The 205 seems to have had it's underside done (and re-done) from early on in it's life, explains why it's like new beneath.
After doing the entire underside of the MK2 I've added a waxoyl coat on top again of the rear section, particularly the bit that's hidden by the petrol tank. OTT but when everythings off, now's the time to do it.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a3-1920w.jpg)
Front wing inners got a coat too, arch liners just seem to be an approximate fit and plenty of daylight's visible if you stick your head up in there.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a15-1920w.jpg)
Put the rear beam back on yesterday / today... that was a job and a half when you're on your own.
Son made me up a gauge to get the exact angle for the bracklets before tightening them to the beam... cannibalised the spirit level from an old set square.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/12degs-1920w.jpg)
Working through the parts pile rightly and rear shocks begun.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/sus1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/sus3-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/sus4-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/sus2-1920w.jpg)
You might have read earlier that my engine sub-frame was showing rot, from the inside out.
New one's been filled with waxoyl and most appertures on the upper facing side now have grommets.
Hopefully stop water ingress but there's still drainage beneath if it should.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a7-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a18-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a17-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/a19-1920w.jpg)
Doing the front / rear brakes at the moment while waiting for pipe / unions and other bits to arrive.
All just loosely assembled for checking but already found I'm short the odd thing such as thrust washers for the rear stub axles... why wouldn't you include them in a kit (a good FAG on at that) which has everything else, seems odd.
Also found the new dust shields are a very loose fit and spun around freely when used in conjunction with Meyle stub axles, maybe better with other brands but you'd imagine they'd all be to the same tolerences so maybe not?
Easy fix - 4 x small cuts and folded in one side of each to make a spiral effect that semi-locks in place.
My originals were completely shot, presumably they take the brunt of the road dirt and spray. Although they're already plated (and I've cut into it also) gave them some extra protection with a zinc primer coat.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-6b9c9482-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/5-701f10ef-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/6-34adc310-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-f5cab259-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-356e8c6b-1920w.jpg)
If you never ever see a photo uploaded by me again it's becuase the quality of this build is creating serious shame! Bearing in mind I'm at a similar stage with mine having just fitted new wishbones with bushes and drop links etc, all be it to my grotty shell and rusty subframe. All my proud achievements now mean nothing, I am not worthy.
That said, once it's done I'm sure I'll be more willing to drive in all weathers, do a tip run, take the dogs out in the back, buottom out over a speed bump or just generally use and abuse it more than you. I love this attention to detail but how will you possibly come to terms with driving it through a muddy puddle once done?
Hats off to you, this is setting the bar really high!
Don't know what to say, feel really bad now - didn't enter my head it might have that effect!
Just enjoy getting into something, probably over indulge but luckily I'm time rich and can get away with it.
Your thread(s) and blog are a gold mine and apart from anything else I just enjoy reading them. I've referred to them countless times and I bet untold others do to, as will new members in the future - I hope you're just joking?
If you could see the state of the 205 today you'd know I'm not worried about using it, fully intend to do the same with the MK2 - all this work's for me and not the next guy.
Don't worry (there's some truth behind the comment, I am shamed but) I am totally blown away by this, better than factory approach. I will contine to post up my grotty pics (<-- oh, that sounds wrong. Not those kind of grotty pics).
My thread has some updates incoming, I did grab a couple hours on the weekend. Just haven't uploaded the pics yet.
Putting stuff back on to the underside and discovered the fuel feed (black one) has what looks to be a 1 - 2 cm burn on it's outer surface midway along it's length.
It coincides with the slight kink where it follows the line if the fastenings, and is approx. below the drivers seat.
It's bizarre, not sure if it's recent or not. First thoughts it was the welder, but the line wasn't on the car at that time which is why I leaning towards it being old damage.
Anyhow tried to find a replacement, just wouldn't be happy with it now and sure enough VW Classic Parts have them for a not too unreasonable €37 (but add a less reasonable €12 postage to that)
Heritage don't list it but when I rang they confirmed they can more or less get you anything you find on the main German site, so it pays to ask.
Upshot was they quoted just under £42 posted, though unfortunately there's a minimum 5 week wait.
..yes you need to have a "long-term" shopping list when buying from VW Classic otherwise the postage is expensive.
By the time I'd got the flaring tool, pipe, unions etc. likely would've been cheaper taking it somewhere to have them do it, but have to say it's a very satisfying job.
Plan is to do the 205 and MK1 in time which should make it more economic.
Had the bonus of the original VW pipes to use as a template otherwise I doubt it'd have gone so easily.
You don't get much in a roll! Had to order a second so as to finish the rears.
As said earlier, I've definitely settled on the original MC with the 2 x outlets, not the 4 of the new one - that would've been even more pipe, though wasn't the reason.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/pipes3-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/pipes2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/pipes-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/pipes1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/18-3bcf6abf-1920w.jpg)
Meant to add this - Found it on ClubGti, and all credit goes to the original poster.
Explains the layout in simple terms that I can see and understand, might be useful to someone else too.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/pipe+diagram-1920w.jpg)
Don't know what to say, feel really bad now - didn't enter my head it might have that effect!
Just enjoy getting into something, probably over indulge but luckily I'm time rich and can get away with it.
Your thread(s) and blog are a gold mine and apart from anything else I just enjoy reading them. I've referred to them countless times and I bet untold others do to, as will new members in the future - I hope you're just joking?
If you could see the state of the 205 today you'd know I'm not worried about using it, fully intend to do the same with the MK2 - all this work's for me and not the next guy.
Been saying for ages , makes your average mortal feel inadequate , thoughts of “I could eat off that “
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/manual+jack1.jpg)
The manual also lists the various bits in the kit so I'm happy everything is there but it would still be interesting to know if other models/markets had tools that went into these empty slots...
(https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/tablet/jack1.jpg)
I thought I'd take a look because I was sure I have tools in those slots. Turns out my my jack holder doesn't even have those slots, G reg 1989. I believe that jack holder in your car is the same as we had in a 1992 Mk3. Mk3 parts lists or manuals may specify what goes on there, from memory a towing eye in the big one? Perhaps a smaller spanner in the small one?
It's very possible it's a MK3 one, unfortunately I don't have it handy to see if there's any manufacturing date on it.
Being a very late 1991 car and from the very end of production I've found a few 'cross-over' bits in common with the MK3 not seen on earlier MK2's.
Today we were mostly putting the fuel tank in...
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/tank-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/tank2-1920w.jpg)
... and taking the subframe back out to finish the PAS.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/pas1-1920w.jpg)
I think my '91 jack holder just has the one spanner slot. I need to check.
Handy to have the ever useful 10/13mm spanner to hand. Although my boot is also full of tat too so itisn't that easy to get to the spare.
I'm ashamed to say I was one of those people who plundered the tool kit before trading a car in, because I've had so many VW's over the years I've a stack of those wee spanners.
Currently on eBay... Not me or anyone I know.
Have to assume they bought a set from me when current, name doesn't ring any bells though.
Don't look to have been applied (though they can be used over and over)... he should really be highlighting that they're repros.
Ebay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124930189036)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/QGYAAOSwpnBhWEgt/s-l1600.jpg)
The thermal cover for the steering boot arrived today... don't know whether to put it on the car or keep it in my sock drawer.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/cod-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/cod1-1920w.jpg)
You got a link for that?
Guy called Chris on eBay... Monkey thinks he may know him, makings of a group buy?
Ebay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333494841555)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/tank-1920w.jpg)
Those pipes on the tank, blue and black flexibles, are they original? The crimps had totally disintegrated on my pipes so my pipes are now black replacements with a clip at each end. Certain parts on your car appear to have lasted very well.
Although my car was registered in January 1992 the boot stickers seem to indicate it was manufactured in late August 1991.
When I was sorting out the space saver and jack kit I noticed the steel rim is stamped 11/88, which seems quite a long time to be stock piling parts before use
I've no reason to doubt the wheel isn't original to the car, it's unused and there's a 'mirror image' impression of the tyre face on the underlying boot floor and sound deadening. The rest of the car is standard and has nothing missing.
I though I might have been able to date the tyre in case it was made closer to 1991 but none of the numbers on it tally with the DOT format that would allow it. Apparently it's a three digit number for a pre-2000 tyre that gives the month and year of manufacture.
It's presumably a MK2 part as it's got the 191 number.
Sorting my spare and tools at the minute and recalled this comment so checked my dates:
Car first registered September 1989
Spare wheel manufactured July 1989
Tyre manufactured first week of June 1989
From what I can make out from your pictures your tyre was manufactured second week of November 1988. Pure speculation; there could have been a problem with the original so the dealer swapped a good one from a used car?
It's MK2, tyre size T 105 / 70 R 14, the same as mine.
They're the originals and with the exception of one they were all in really good shape.
At the risk of harping on about it, the phosphoric acid (you can paint it on neat for awkward / big jobs that a bath doesn't suit) brought them up like new.
If you wire wheel the metal first to get rid of the main corrosion it responds even better. Post clean a treat and paint should hopefully mean they'll last another 30 years.
It's a bit vague now, so may not be remembering correctly... the space saver tyre (as opposed to the rim which is stamped) does have a code on it, but it's a format that predates the current system and I wasn't able to find a way of deciphering it at the time, good to know it's also 1988, make sense.
My car has very little history other than the original service book and even that doesn't go beyond the first year or so.
It appears to have been a company car from new and leased, then presumably disposed of at the end of whatever term they had it for.
After that there's nothing until a few years before I got it in 2010'sh, the previous owner kept some hand written records and service receipts.
I always intended to apply to the DVLA to get it's previous owner history, but faffed about so long that they've now withdrawn the service.
Mentioned a few posts back that my nylon fuel feed (black one) beneath the car has somehow been scorched.
I've maybe been a little ahead of myself and ordered a new one, unwanted expense but it's too important a thing to take a chance on.
Anyhow, since been Googling and it's possible you can maybe splice in a new section, there's connectors out there for the purpose.
Have I understood that correctly and if so has anyone done it?
Another option was to replace it with generic fuel line but even taking away all the aggro that'd involve it'd likely cost a similar amount anyhow.
Thermostats being discussed elsewhere, got me looking at my own and discovered the original VW one (on the right in the image) was made by BTT (Behr Thermot-tronik Gmbh) who are now owned by Mahle - spooky then that I'd previously, unwittingly ordered a new Mahle... Not much has changed in 30 years.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/thermos-1920w.jpg)
When I said doing the brake lines was a pleasure, I take it back... running those to the rear, and in particular the shorties from the beam to calipers was two days work and much eff'ing and blinding. The fronts were the original VW pipes, but from engine bay to rear had been replaced at some point so not great templates to work from, had to just do it from scratch instead
Hopefully now done and upside is it's allowed me to finally get the rear brakes fitted properly.
Plan is to get him/her back on it's own four feet so as to get the interior back in.
Those are the plastic bungs at the end, last two images - still think someones missing a trick not 3D'ing them ;)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-f7844c17-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/8-28fe75ed-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-91b3de72-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/6-4ab0c7be-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/5-bb9de25d-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/bungs-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-0fb12a43-1920w.jpg)
Watching our build thread always inspires me to try and make my own a little bit better.
It also inspires me never to go up against you in a show and shine!!
Remember, it is an uncommon and scarcer talent to have the ability to recognise ability. Anon.
To echo what Monkey said, once again I'm totally blown away by seeing these photos.
I can promise you, you'll never see me at a show'n'shine.
Thank you for the comments, even though I feel awkward seeing them.
I don't post about my car elsewhere and it's this forum alone that's brought me to where I am with it.
Said before that since joining I've grown from peaking out at checking the oil to having just taken the engine apart and it's all because of you lot with your posts, advice and support.
So if you're a newbie, like I was not that long ago, don't be daunted by getting stuck in. It's all very, very doable and you'll not be stuck for help on here.
I can promise you, you'll never see me at a show'n'shine.
Thank you for the comments, even though I feel awkward seeing them.
I don't post about my car elsewhere and it's this forum alone that's brought me to where I am with it.
Said before that since joining I've grown from peaking out at checking the oil to having just taken the engine apart and it's all because of you lot with your posts, advice and support.
So if you're a newbie, like I was not that long ago, don't be daunted by getting stuck in. It's all very, very doable and you'll not be stuck for help on here.
So glad to hear that, I stopped going to shows because the 'scene' was getting silly, I much prefer to see resto's than BBS shod dumped cars, car is looking epic though, credit to you, something I should have done with mine but life got in the way!!
Rear and middle sections of the exhaust turned up today.
Felt like I was really pushing my luck using Autodoc yet again, up to now they've been more or less faultless over 7 or 8 orders (save for a serious long wait for the first few, but I was in no hurry) so I was due a hic-cup.
Glad to say though that all arrived as ordered and in perfect nick. Used them because I couldn't get Bosal anywhere in the UK, shame they didn't have the front section as well, but watch this space!
Waited until they'd 40% off and pounced. You may already know it but in the app., if you go to 'My Autodoc' there's a 'My Coupons' tab, (don't think it's on the regular website) and you'll have a few 1% coupons that you can copy to the final bill and get even more money off on top of everything else.
Anyhow, upshot was it's beginnings of the makings of a good OE system (even it's not stainless) for an affordable price... and better still, it's the look I want!
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/xhaust1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/xhaust-1920w.jpg)
Do like a standard exhaust with the slash cut!
Took a day off from the bigger stuff and just to motivate / remind myself I'm going in the right direction got a bit ahead of myself and put on one of the plastic arches.
Since the holes in the arch metalwork that accomodate the fastenings for these seem to be the cause of corrosion tried to work out someway of keeping it at bay.
Have a bag of these plastic pegs and their blacked metal screws, think they're generic VW fasteners and still found on a lot of current models.
Already had to drill a couple of holes anyhow, because of the welding, so went the whole way and enlarged them all to be slightly bigger than the screws.
Heat shrinked the screw stems so in theory there's now no metal on metal contact, plus the tip end bunches up as you tighten and fills any gap... should also be easily removed again, unlike the original rivets.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/plas+screw3-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/plas+screw-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/plas+screw1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-1be3074f-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/5-c309f9be-1920w.jpg)
Funnily enough I’ve just done the same in mine. Sill covers and arches fitted. I used plastic plug and screws. I’ll update my thread soon. I enlarged all my holes before I painted too.
Nice idea, my arches are going back on next week...hopefully!
Finally back down on its own feet and can move onto jobs that involve getting into the car.
Probably be going up in the air again at some point though... few loose ends such as the new fuel feed pipe along with the accumulator / pump to button down and front piece of the exhaust to be fitted.
Had bought a larger trolley jack a quite a while back and to make use of it's full reach went for the extended legs of 6-tonne stands over standard 2 tonne ones. Found a site selling them for £6.00 each with free P+P if you went over £30. When they turned up had to help the driver get the boxes off the van they were so heavy. Turns out they were Amazon returns, never used.
I've no idea now how I got the car up so high in the first place, must be 6 months ago it was done. Bringing it back down involved an awful lot of puckering.
Last shots from under the car hopefully -
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/10-5458d804-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/9-7c403f59-1920w.jpg)
Are the rear exhaust heat shields original? If not where did you buy them please?
Your undercarriage looks amazing ... :o
Have you doubled up on head shield clips too?
Here is a tip for the heat shield clips; especially when the shields are as good as they are on this car. Get some helicopter tape and cut it to the size of the clips with a reasonable sized hole in the middle. Stick it to the back of the clip. Same again for the aluminium block that contacts the floor pan. Fit it all, no steel to aluminium contact, no galvanic corrosion. Heat shields last for ever.
Took a week or so away from the car, spending too much time on it lately... supposed to be a hobby, not a chore!
Yes, doubled up on the clips - have a surplus and was crawling around beneath, doing a final check before lowering it and spur of the moment thing.
The heat shields are the originals, all but one being aluminium meant they were in great nick, just a tidy up and back on.
Been dodging the bullet of the heater matrix for a while now.
Mainly been put off by the horror stories you read about what's involved, but equally common sense was nagging at me saying now is the time to do it plus being the original (not even with a by-pass valve) I was just storing up trouble.
Ordered foam etc. over a week ago and it's just turned up today, so wish me well!
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-4cdac05c-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-7a85204c-1920w.jpg)
You will be fine with the heater box. Get a hairdryer to the plastic clips to warm them up, stops them cracking.
Had it all apart already in anticipation and it wasn't too bad a job, even the original Valeo matrix was in good shape.
It was the foam that'd given up the go... have totally removed every piece that hadn't already crumbled onto the floor from behind the dash to be replaced with new.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h9-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h10-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h12-1920w.jpg)
Generic 2mm closed cell, self adhesive foam. Previously bought a large sheet when doing the 205 and it was so invaluable used it all up, so ordered some more for the MK2.
New matrix came with it's own and the bulkhead / scuttle intake gasket's have yet to arrive.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h7-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h1-1920w.jpg)
Initially did the extra piece half way across as per the original but can't think why VW did it like that, wound up extending it the whole way.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h8-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h6-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h4-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h3-1920w.jpg)
That's it for today -
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h16-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h13-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/h15-1920w.jpg)
... and washed my socks as well.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/socks-1920w.jpg)
Don't forget to inspect the dash....
Ensure the leading edge which goes under the windscreen doesn't have any gaps otherwise demisting won't be great.
Give it a good shake and hoover inside to rid it of all the bits of foam.
Make sure the aperture which lines-up with the heater box is rigid. If neccessary reinforce with modelling plastic card on the longer sides.
Dilute some PVA and coat the 'cardboard' aperture to revive rigidity.
Good advice and thankfully the dash seems 100%, but still felt bad taking it off as I know they're quite flimsy.
Having said that if you ever see inside the dash of a 205 the MK2's looks like it was made in a ship yard by comparison.
....so that is where I went wrong with mine....
I tried to fit them without cutting a slit in them hoping there would be enough give in the foam I bought :))
Obviously VW glued the 2 halves together either side of the one-piece foam. I gues a dribble of glue would stop them getting displaced.
It's the adhesive foam sheet without the backing taken off, save for about 1/2 a cm either side of the cut.
Loose fitting the monkey puzzle tree that is the heater pipes before getting ready to put the dash back on.
For the benfit of Dene and others thinking of removing theirs that's the 2 x holes / nuts that hold the dash from the engine bay side, way up under the scuttle... hopefully save you some head scratching.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/dash-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/top+nuts-1920w.jpg)
Looking good.
White socks....so 1980's ;D
And the dash sound proofing's parted down the middle, though the water jackets aren't double breasted.
Again... my memory for the useless has kicked in and I recall watching / reading something about cheap v's expensive cars.
They took a Citroen AX along with a then current Lexus apart and one of the 'highlights' was that Citroen painted their seat frames while Lexus left them bare metal. Thinking was even they start to show rust, who'll see it.
Seeing the metal work behind the MK2 dash must've triggered some of the synapses I have left.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/dash1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/dash2-1920w.jpg)
Push is on to get more and more back on... weathers already on the turn and want to get the car as near complete (less engine) as possible before it gets too much colder.
Dash was a learning curve, though having done it once (hopefully never to have to do it again) it would be much easier for a second time knowing what I do now.
Re-foamed the looms... while the original stuff was a crumbly, sticky mess it was also there for a reason and might help with keeping the rattles down.
Whoever may be having to do it all over again in another 30+ years might not agree though!
There's probably a few tips to pass on if like me it's your first removal and refit - main one I'd say, because it ate up more time than proportionate for their small size was the fitting screws and sorting out what went where.
VW in their wisdon seem to have used a whole collection of similar looking, but slightly different screws. Some'll fit in the wrong place, others won't, but get one wrong and that means another one elsewhere'll be wrong too.
Do that and by the time you get to the end of the job you'll have some fittings that you'll struggle with and being brittle plastic / weak compressed card there's the risk of damaging something needlessly - a pain, but mark your fittings as you remove them, so much easier than having to sift through them later!
Wrongly assumed the spare dash bulbs I already have would fit the MK2, not so but for the sake of waiting a day or two until the correct ones arrive, fitting the binnacle is on hold.
The routeing for my own sub-loom (the VDO's etc.) was also tided up now that access was available and it went back in a treat.
My patented bulkhead grommet is available at all good motorfactors.
Another tip which has occurred to me while writing are the air vents either side / closest to the doors. Didn't take a photo, would've explained it straight away, but imagine the plastic tubes that feed them.
They have 3 x prongs with little fold overs at their ends, the idea is that they extend out into the apperture and as the vent is slid in they're captured between it and the dash itself. Should hold them in place and avoid the pipework parting company from the vent piece and flapping about, blowing air around inside the dash.
The center twin vent simply pushes into the corresponding pipework, it's further inside, no prongs etc.
Seats have been gathering dust waiting to go in (and getting in everyones way), hopefully when the dash is finished that'll happen, ditto the door cards and thenl be the interior almost 100% done - famous last words.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/dash3-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/dash4-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/grommet1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/grommet-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/drivers1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/passengers-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/doorcard1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/doorcard-1920w.jpg)
VW's original double sided tape for the door membranes had dried up, making it very easy to take them off without damage.
New stuff may make that more difficult to do again but unavoidable, hence the precaution of a template for future use if needed.
The additional 'Waxoyl' that was sprayed in and around the door cavity a while back has now turned semi solid, not pretty but you can never have too much protection.
More evidence of production dates - 8th July (or 7th August if you're being Continental?) 1991.
Door locks / handles were very dry and clunky from a decade of being in a box with no use - satisfying 30 minute job to fix and along with the new pins now closes like a Merc. plus resurrected the 'Armor' plates.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/door-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/membrane-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/july+91-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/template-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/handle-1920w.jpg)
VW used glue originally I tried fitting an original one years ago it was a nightmare. Ended up taking it to VW to fit. Double sided tape is much easier.
scs
Definitely tape, things must've moved on by end of production.
Milky/clear rubble bags make a great replacement for door membranes. They are thicker polythene and if you cut down one side and along the bottom fold-out they are plenty big enough.
You can either fit them baggy or re-use the 'pockets' from the originals.
This is one of the impressive restorations I referred to elsewhere. Feels like the car is being re-manufactured. Really impressive work.
With it being sooooo long ago I've had to pinch myself to believe the car's at the stage it is (if you ignore the small issue of a lack of engine).
Even went into the loft last night to hunt down bits I'd bought a decade and more ago for it.
Something I've had even longer is this, bought new from Isaac Agnews VW parts store in Mallusk, Co. Antrim when it was still just a single tiny box office down the side of the old showroom.
It's been with me and on a few MK2's (plus a monza blue Jetta 16v) right through from the start of the 1990's... like meeting an old friend again.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/imola-1920w.jpg)
Took a while but finally tracked down a German outfit that'd post the front part of the Bosal system to the UK...
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/bosal-1920w.jpg)
Getting weary... interior is all in (I think!) so going to call it a day for while then assess the engine side of things.
Fading light stopped play again and didn't help the image quality either.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-41976abd-1920w.jpg)
I'm not usually a fan of non oem steering wheels in a mk2, but that really looks at home there.
Don't think I've ever owned a MK2 that I didn't change the wheel on, the original for this car is worn smooth in places and has developed an ever so slightly tacky feel around the rim... just not nice to use
This age of Italvolanti has a really satisfying chunky rim, even it was as ugly as sin it'd be going on for that reason alone, but regardless I personally think it's perfect and have never seen something I'd swap it for.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-049f2b57-1920w.jpg)
I recently dispensed with original ‘plastic’ steering wheel, as I found it aesthetically displeasing. They should have carried through with a leather trim mk1 or similar design. I have of course retained it as insurance against future sale.
.
I eventually opted for a Momo ‘Tuner’, black leather with red stitching, which in my opinion has all the period hallmarks of a ‘GTi’. Importantly for me the diameter shaved off 25mm against original wheel (375mm?) which makes my aged entry into cabin more dignified. Overall, with thinner rim and firmer material it feels like the steering has become more direct if you know what I mean?
Not a cheap upgrade, particularly when you are obliged to purchase correct steering boss and horn button to complete exercise. Also the alleged ‘30 minute’ fitment, promoted by on line VW contributors, I found somewhat optimistic.
It’s a subjective thing.
One of the loft finds... do remember buying this a very long time ago for pennies on eBay for no other reason than it was the same one as in the catalogue.
It's just the handset part, the main gubbins would've been hidden out of sight some where.
No holes etc., made up an aluminium paddle (protected with more of the indispensable adhesive foam!) held between a gap in the center consoles side and to which the phones own holder now attaches, all easily removed.
Apologies for the dodgy image's, just can't seem to get a decent piccie these days because of the low autum sun... life's hard.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/telecom-24808420-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/acc+cat-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/acc+cat2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/acc+cat1-1920w.jpg)
That is both a little bit sad but also massively amazing at the same time! Great work.
Don't suppose you can get power to it so it lights up?
Oh ye of little faith!
Of course it lights up, but you'll probably not believe me until I put up a piccy and that's a way off what with there being no ancilliaries / engine etc.
Ha! Proper yuppie spec! :D
Ha! Proper yuppie spec! :D
Red braces and a pair of Church's brogues required. I have to say though I actually quite like it.
and the 80s white socks.....
The ones that cover the heater ducting that is..
How did you get then sooo white but I realise you can't see them.
As for the phone. Your passenger could have some fun with that in a traffic jam.....brings to mind a sketch from the 80's where someone was taking the mick driving with the old house style handset to their ear miming "I'm on the phone"
Socks went in the wash with the normal laundry, weren't too dirty to start with other than dust.
Bellino fuel can intended to fit within the spare wheel itself.
The vast majority of these seem to have been made for Mercedes, then BMW and occassionally you'll see the odd Volvo / other obsure one and most will have the corresponding makers emblem pressed into the metal.
VW seem to have done it on the cheap and added their logo in sticker form to a plain can.
Unfortunately for me, being a later car with the space saver the can's too tall to fit under the flat boot mat, if you'd a full size spare and humped mat it'd be perfect.
They come in different capacities (I think 7 and 9 litres) and the larger version is for greater diameter wheels... 7 litre fits a 15" wheel exactly.
The cans separate threaded rod / washer screws down onto the existing floor mounted upright to secure it.
Also leaves you with the issue of what to do with the jack etc.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/saver5-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/saver4-960w.jpg)
Had one of those in my first Mk2 16V in 89/90, worked as well, not that I ever had a contact with it, car had the add on amp set up as well, was pretty well specced. The phone I'm replying to lol.
Not a great day here... limited to some of the smaller jobs, so will have a stab at putting the wipers back in.
With the scuttle area being more or less empty up to now it made removing the dash and replacing the various clutch / speedo and throttle cables that bit easier.
The scuttle cover was quite faded, down to grey in places.
I'd bought this stuff in error a while ago, thinking it was their regular vinyl and rubber care one (nice smell and cleans trim up well without making it look shiney) - Plastic conditioner...
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31s-YzsPqbL._AC_.jpg)
Got to say it's miraculous, doesn't just dress the plastic, seems to revive / feed it... worth considering.
Price has doubled since I got a bottle, maybe it was new to the market back then, but 1 x litre should do you a long time.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/wipers-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/wipers1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/tray-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/tray1-1920w.jpg)
I have been applying Autoglym ‘Vinyl & Rubber care’ (£7.00 @ 500 ml) which sounds similar to above. As a detail nerd I treated every bit of trim, external and internal, to lashings of same and impressed with results. The finish or ‘feed’ seems to last about 8 weeks worth of driving before finish fades and needs top up. That said, my trim, bumpers, rubber seals were in good order when I got car and therefore cannot comment on this product’s effectiveness when applied to ‘grey’ bits.
I've been using Gtechniq C4 on my plastic trim and components. I can't claim it looks better than the Autoglym products mentioned above and it is a lot more expensive. However the manufacturer claims up to two years durability.
Been an Autoglym person for years now, no other reason than one of their reps. used to visit the fleet staff at the place I worked and sold we regular plebs commercial sized bottles at trade price from his van.
Wipers etc. in... bit of a faff getting all those odd shaped grommets / shims in the right way round and correct order.
Radiator and surrounding gubbins close to done too but just can't get a good piccie this last while, usually doing it at the end of a days work probably doesn't help...
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/rad-1920w.jpg)
From large to small - One of my bonnet seals looks like it's been nibbled at... the other one's fine, but unfortunately replacements don't seem to be readily available.
Even they were they would probably be an extortionate amount for what's basically a bit of foam and while I'm grateful you can still get lots of these fiddly little parts, I really begrudge paying some of the prices being asked when you can get the same thing (or better) elsewhere for a fraction of the cost.
Would like to know the correct term for this type of dense foam, can likely be bought easily enough if you know what you're after.
I've a habit of keeping waste foam like this and the stuff here came from the son's old Xbox packaging. Higher end electrical goods seem to be a rich source for useful packaging.
It can be cut with a sharp blade, but leaves 'saw' marks no matter how careful you are. I've found 800 emery paper will smooth those out and round any corners you need to do.
The original is slightly more profiled, but I suspect when the replacement is in situ for a while it'll take on a similar shape as it gets compressed over time.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/bonnet+foam-1920w.jpg)
I guess you painted the radiator fan motor? Good call, it's one of the few bits in my engine bay that wouldn't scrub up.
Was originally black (and to the car), but yes it has been re-painted.
Possibly because it's part number refers to a MK3 motor... appears to be yet another cross over, end of production item not found on earlier cars.
Car's quite tight into the corner of the garage, had to press up against the boiler to even get this angle.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/rear1-1920w.jpg)
Unfortunately the front's not just so far on...
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/front-1920w.jpg)
looking incredible
Made the decision to get as much back onto the car as possible, partly because I'm tired of tip toeing around stuff and need the garage space back. Until you see it, no one would believe you just how far out a car can spread when it's in bits.
Also the increasingly cold days we're having has reminded me just how punishing it was doing the 205 over the winter months, no intention of ever doing that again.
I realise most of it will have to come off again, but nothings being tightened down and it has the advantage of testing everything fits / nothings missing etc.
The bonnet and drivers door are away for paint... the bonnet because it'd had a mediocre blow over at some point and the door because of a slight swelling along the bottom seal. As it turned out that was so minor it could very easily have been sorted while on the car, but we weren't to know.
Overall the car's paint is in good nick, save for one noticible parking ding and some rubbing in places such as where the boot light plinth meets the tail gate.
In an ideal world I'd have liked to have sorted it now, but the cars obviously immobile and it's been touched in, so can wait until after an MOT and able to go to someone under its own steam.
All being well, front bumper and grille probably tomorrow.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/slam7-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/slam5-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/slam1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/slam2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/slam4-1920w.jpg)
That looks absolutely fantastic!
Made the decision to get as much back onto the car as possible, partly because I'm tired of tip toeing around stuff and need the garage space back. Until you see it, no one would believe you just how far out a car can spread when it's in bits.
I know just what you mean!! :o
Front bumper has fought me all day so not yet on the car unfortunately.
The front lower spoiler halves were a particular pain. I've their tabs fitting correctly in all the various corresponding slots and they're a perfect fit because of it but even so there's a noticible gap where they meet along the center line of the car.
I don't recall it being so pronounced, but then the last I saw them on the car would've been over 10 years ago.
Had a Google and you see images of cars with similar gaps and some with much lesser ones.
This just happens to be a particularly clear one of someone elses car, but it's exactly as mine is...
(https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/magazine/app/uploads/2019/10/DSC02642-2000x1125.jpg)
When the bumpers back on and the support's in place I still don't see there being any improvement, as I say other than this it's a very good fit with no slack to be taken up.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/support-1920w.jpg)
This car exactly same as mine but without 16v moniker. Also sourced by UKD in Chipping Sodbury!
Just been on my knees to measure my lower ‘lip’ and can report the expansion gap on spoiler is 2mm at top and 4mm at bottom.
Hope this helps?
N.B. Mine now for sale.
Car looks fantastic with so much attention to detail.
Looks Minty Fresh!!!!
Have to say your attention is remarkable.
scs
Very impressive work, did I read somewhere that this car was red when you bought it?
Cheers all!
Worked on yesterday afternoon to almost midnight and paying the price now... nose is running like a tap.
Did you notice the deliberate mistake? The front support is on upside down and I also initially managed to attach the bumper irons the wrong way about. Much head scratching involved until the penny dropped. Tired and cold, working alone, upside down on a concrete floor's my excuse!
Thanks for measuring the gap, I say gap but it's like you say more a sliding expansion joint. Afraid mines still about twice what yours is even with everything on correctly, but seeing images of others with the same gap has contented me it's likely normal - memory is playing tricks.
Think that's one of the reasons this final stage is taking so long, 95% of the car I've dismantled over the last 18 months and remember most of it, the front end was taken off a decade ago.
Your mind wanders working alone and it got me thinking that I've never named this car, maybe because it's always been incomplete from shortly after I got it, but now that it's making a come back thought I'd better decide on something.
So, as the sharp eyed will probably realise why, it's Isaac from now on.
Photo's taken for the insurance file, dust and all.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/last4-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/last2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/last3-1920w.jpg)
Forgot to say... No, never red, always white.
Notice my new wheel chocks, (not quite done yet, going to put a rope handle / loop on them)? - welding's starting to pay dividends!
I’ll stop looking for red bits and enjoy the build. Keep the reports coming 👍
I bought mine from Trust motors, Trusty would have been a good name.
Gorgeous GTi
Loft diving...
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/exting1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/e8-187b86e4-960w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/1af6dd8a/dms3rep/multi/opt/e10-c2a0be7c-960w.jpg)
Crikey! You got all the goodies
That looks absolutely amazing!
Recently with my going through the things I've planked away from decades ago and thinking too of the other things I've had and moved on got me thinking something similar.
Apart from there naturally being less of it around as time goes by, I picked most of it up when it just wasn't sought after or trendy plus easily obtained from places all over Europe (and further afield).
You just couldn't do it today... between astronomical asking prices for certain things to no longer having access to previous markets it's either too expensive or not possible.
It's a shame, denies new owners access to one of the sides of MK2 / Older car ownership.
Know exactly what you mean, I've just bought the fitting kit for the sill covers, had to get it from two seperate places and cost me nearly £100!
I don't just up-cycling foam you know... kudos if you can say what this textured board was originally part of?
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/corby-1920w.jpg)
Not sure it'll work when the car's in use... hopefully waterproofed it with a few coats of lacquer, but only time will tell.
Needs something there, just doesn't look right without.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/corby1-1920w.jpg)
Been away from the MK2 for quite a while now, surprised myself seeing the date of the last post (it was the back of a 'Corby Trouser Press' by the way) and that it was just so long ago.
Principle reason was the delay (almost three months at time of writing) in getting the bonnet / door returned... tempting fate here as they're still not completely done, though what's prompted the renewed interest was the guy getting in touch today to say they may be with me on Xmas eve... now that would be a proper present, instead of some car wash and new socks.
Anyhow, upside is it allowed me to focus on the MK1 and while that's no further on in real terms either, I'm slowly starting to get my head back around locating and organising the catalogue of parts that were stored away for the project.
Fingers crossed, the plan is to complete the MK2's engine in readiness to refit in the spring, the exterior / interior having already been done so as not to divide my attention.
Just re-registered after closing down my previous account because of spammers and worse.
From now on you'll unfortunately not be able to contact me other than on the forum, don't want a repeat thank you very much.
To probably add to the confusion I've been able to re-use my previous forum name, but other than that it's totally separate from the original (now defunct) account.
Glad to see you back mate.
Cheers - Bill was in touch, plus the spamming has stopped so thought I'd tempt fate and sign up again.
Nothing much to report on the MK2 front however, other than the bonnet / door are back from paint. Door's on and built back up, bonnet'll stay off 'til the engines done.
The block went away when those came back, though that's due to be home anytime now (hopefully).
welcome back lets hope you stay spam free
scs
Glad you are back Martin
For want of something to post up, riveting stuff!
Door has since been built back up, in itself a straight forward job but took two days of fiddling about.
Bonnet's in a spare room, out of harms way... Not long off the phone to the engine shop and will be collecting the block Wednesday AM. so it might be making a reappearance sometime soon when that's in and running (who am I kidding!)
Booked the car in for an MOT early June. You shouldn't be able to book them so far in advance, but for some reason they've allowed it.
Suits me fine, likely take at least that long to sort the 'inevitable' issues out.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/9a903fa2/dms3rep/multi/opt/door-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/9a903fa2/dms3rep/multi/opt/bonnet-1920w.jpg)
Block's back... part of the work was new pistons, over sized by +0.5mm.
Below is one of the originals that he gave away with me and it was only after a clean back home that the marks you see became so obvious to me. Upshot was I hadn't thought at the time to ask him what in his professional opinion had caused them.
There's identical damage on the opposite side you can't see in the photo.
Seems to be a theme with the outfits I use, excellent work, but they're nigh on impossible to get on the phone.
Impatience has got the better of me and thought I'd stick up an image for opinions.
When I do get to talk to him I'll let you know.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/piston1-1920w.jpg)
Looks like your engine had bore scoring. I didn't think VW engines suffered from that.
Were there any marks on the bores before machining?
Edit, just now googled piston bore scoring. There are images of pistons damaged just like yours. Google Porsche bore scoring and there are images of badly damaged bores.
Finally caught up with the machine shop, plus had shown them to the local mechanic I use.
Both say it's just regular wear that's nothing more than to be expected and not indicative of a problem with the engine.
The image does make the marks look more dramatic than they really are, if you were to feel the piston without looking you'd struggle to notice anything.
I was wondering if photography was highlighting the issue.
I'd imagine you could work with engines for a life time and still keep learning, I'm just scratching the surface trying to get enough knowledge to tackle the Mickey Mouse jobs.
No surprise I suppose I wasn't expecting to see the marks and read too much into them.
Car's an indicated 75K on it and while you can never be 100% sure with something you haven't owned from new, other things about it make me confident it's true.
Still, it's a bit of an eye opener to the novice of what's going on inside an engine.
Son passed his test just over a month ago... been occupied sorting him out with a car (read that as also getting it 100% reliable / serviced / safe), plus the 205 has just been given a thorough going over for it's MOT next week.
MK2 has now finally come back to the fore... it's MOT is less than 7 weeks away - really going to have to get the finger out if it's going to make it in time. Not convinced it will, just too much needs doing and most of it's things way beyond my skill set / will likely need farming out and involve all the obligatory delays that seems to entail these days.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/engine1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/engine+vin-1920w.jpg)
Always a little unnerving when you have a MOT deadline and have the bare block in front of you!
Though, it does look bloody lovely.
If you haven't already, I recommend sending a tap through some of those threaded holes, just to make re-assembly easier.
If one was needed, got a bit of a prompt today to try and make this work out. If I miss the deadline it could cause all sorts of issues getting a retest anytime soon.
Daughters car (Citigo) is due its MOT 27 July.
The earliest you can book here in N. Ireland is 3 x months in advance of that date, with the earliest test date itself being no more than 1 x month from the expiry of the previous certificate.
Went online to do it today and the earliest available test anywhere in N. Ireland (not just the centers nearest to me) was 27 September!
That's 2 x months after expiry and 5 x months from today!
The last actual test her car did was in Feb. 2020... must've been one of the few done before covid restrictions halted them.
It's had several official temporary extensions from expiry in Feb 2021... so by the time it's next physically seen by a tester again 31 months will have passed!
I look after her car, it's probably over serviced and things checked / changed more often than needed... but it's scary to think there's probably owners out there in a similar position who don't lift a finger to their car until it breaks / fails an MOT.
Spent yesterday trying to find stuff and phase 1 is double checking I've got every nut / bolt / washer before assembly in ernest... it's all just loosely fitted in place.
Phase 2 will be getting the courage up to commit to buttoning it up.
Doesn't look like a day's non-stop work, brings it home to you the amount of work still needed!
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/engine2-1920w.jpg)
Just on a side note... seeing the engine number, I realised I've never cross referenced it to the registration book. Glad to say it matches, but something to consider doing if you haven't already / don't assume anything.
Been a long day and tired so likely not seeing the obvious / made some school-boy error.
First piccie is the PAS pump at it's most fully open resting position.
The second is with the belt on and as you can see it's pulley is touching that of the water pump.
Belt is brand new, but even allowing for it being 'tight' I don't see it being this close is any where near correct.
With the belt on the PAS pump is resting at its fully closed position, I also had to take both pulleys off inorder to fit the thing otherwise it would've been impossible.
The eagle eyed will notice the PAS adjustment screw isn't fitted... it makes no odds as there's not further travel available from it when the belt's on - even it could be tightened, it would be bringing the pulleys closer still.
The belt's correct according to 7Zap at 730mm - BOSCH 026 145 271, which is listed as equivalent to VW 026 145 271.
Other brands are also listed as 730mm for PB's (there's mention of 735mm belts but they're toothed)
The water pump (Mahle) and PAS pump (Meyle) are new, but I've double checked and are correct for the car, they both fitted straight on with no issues... the tightness of the belt seems to be the cause, a longer belt would solve it but as far as I can see It's the correct one - unless you know otherwise!
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/belts-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/belts1-1920w.jpg)
Should've said all the pulleys are the original VW's / dimensions etc., just the pumps were changed...
More mistakes... Bosch belt is 1 987 947 790, told you I was tired.
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I'm pretty sure there should be an inner cam belt cover that goes between the cam belt and the alternator.
Just loose fitting everything / checking nothings missing. Covers accounted for and safe to one side for final build up.
Any thoughts on belt issue, found an old post on ClubGTI were some one had a similar problem, but no real answer given.
Some of you may have seen me posting this elsewhere and the replies... long story, short despite being the recommended length of 730mm the general consensus is 732mm is also available (as is 735mm) for the PB and used without issue.
So, after spending the morning juggling every possible combo., it's clear the belts (lack of) length is what's causing the problem, next size up it is then!
I had a real issue getting the correct PAS belts for my old 8v Kjet. So many different options are listed depending on the spec of the particular vehicle. I swapped out a few wrongly purchased belts before I gave up looking at the spec list and just measured the belt I'd take off and bought the same again - it was not any of the sizes listed for any specification but it worked, so no idea what was going on. Someone suggested that maybe the PAS had been fitted later and wasn't factory spec but I doubt that.
Hang on..... you've got the Water pump and PAS sharing a belt and the Alternator on its own!!!!
I have to admit I haven't inspected my PB that closely but remember on my k-jet EV the alternator and water pump shared a belt, the PAS was on its own.
I know this because my Alternator belt snapped and I thought, that's OK I can get home without the battery charging it'll be OK.... and 5 mins later I noticed the car was getting very very hot :o
I assumed they were all the same set-up - that said, it would make sense that the car is designed so it doesn't overheat if the alt belt goes so maybe they changed it on later ones. But if the water pump and alt shared the same line, they'd be able to overlap the PAS pulley.
I woke at around 4am this morning thinking something similar... that maybe the belts are in the wrong place?
Scared the wits out of the dog going out to the garage to check, or else I'd never have gone back to sleep.
The PAS / water pump and the smaller outer crankshaft pulleys all line up together, the alt. and rearmost larger crank pulley are by themselves.
It's entirely down to the PAS belt being way too tight a fit... because of how the bracket works the tension is pulling the PAS pump up towards the water pump, but also more worryingly taking it away from the vertical too, meaning they're not only touching but not perfectly aligned either.
Not an ideal pic. to show the correct alignment, infact makes them look way off, but this is it set up perfectly, obviously less the belt.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/engine4-1920w.jpg)
Re the PAS belt I found it difficult to fit the PAS belt so that there was enough length to get over the pulleys and still sufficient adjustment to stop the belt squealing. I found I had to loosen the PAS pump so that the pulley was offset and iserted in the water pump pulley. Otherwise when I tightened the belt up it was still too loose.
Edit..I'm not sure I've ever changed the belt until I did the aircon install. With hindsight the belt was quite thin so sat low in the pulley groove so that probably didn't help!
The MK2 PAS belt adjuster isn't great. The MK3 PAS adjuster is like the MK2 alternator adjuster and much better.
I found pics on this site, via a Google image search which shows the set-up I was explaining.
http://www.vwgolf-mk2.com/evbeltreplacement040403.html
The PAS is clearly on its own and the water pump runs with the alternator belt. I would go and check my car, but I've had to park it down the street as I'm expecting a delivery of patio slabs so had to clear the driveway... and I can't be bothered. :))
Although I think aircon is part of that configuration.
Edit: found another one...
(https://www.clubgti.com/forums/data/attachments/17/17916-1b992b8332f00ba29bdd670d28204dcc.jpg)
Good wee site that, comes up quite often when searching things... suspect it's because he's already gone through what I'm having to go though now and we're getting our heads around the same issues.
It's interesting too that he mentions in a final update moving up from a 630 PAS belt to a 635 and that things fitted much better.
Don't see a 635 mentioned on 7Zap (maybe a Japanesse spec. thing?), but in addition to the PB's 730 there's a 633 and a 650 plus a 740 for certain engine codes... easy to see how things might get confused.
Like you say I think his car has aircon which seems to change things further.
It was mentioned elsewhere about different pulley sizes, though I've since checked and mine are PB with PAS correct (and appear original) to the car so didn't take that any further... but again did seem to may be variations for different enginecodes.
Re the PAS belt I found it difficult to fit the PAS belt so that there was enough length to get over the pulleys and still sufficient adjustment to stop the belt squealing. I found I had to loosen the PAS pump so that the pulley was offset and iserted in the water pump pulley. Otherwise when I tightened the belt up it was still too loose.
Edit..I'm not sure I've ever changed the belt until I did the aircon install. With hindsight the belt was quite thin so sat low in the pulley groove so that probably didn't help!
The MK2 PAS belt adjuster isn't great. The MK3 PAS adjuster is like the MK2 alternator adjuster and much better.
Yes, it needed the water and PAS pulleys both off and then prised onto the pump shafts while under the belt to get it to work, two pairs of hands would've helped.
Longer belt should be the solution... I'd imagine it's a tricky enough job in situ on the car when everything fits, be impossible as it stands.
Built up the engine as much as possible... by which I mean temporarily hung things where they're (hopefully!) meant to be and account for every last nut and bolt.
Ignore things like the wrong exhaust fastenings - they're just holding it together, pending the correct one time use copper nuts going on.
Wouldn't say panic has set in, but definitely a sense of urgency... just so much to do and not long to do it.
Next job's trying to identify and match what's in the photos to what's on the car and re-label it all so there's no ambiguity as to what goes where.
You'll maybe remember I mentioned the notes on the original labels had faded so as to be unreadable.
Quite a bit I still remember, some I can work out from trawling the inter-web, but you can expect to be getting some questions.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/built1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/built2-1920w.jpg)
Are you sure thats not a new engine you have bought
Are you sure thats not a new engine you have bought
I don't think there'll be a difference between that and brand new!
Love the amount of care you have put into this. Have you kept track of man hours?
I've ordered one of those steering boot protectors too. My old boot fell apart when I touched it!
I woke at around 4am this morning thinking something similar... that maybe the belts are in the wrong place?
Scared the wits out of the dog going out to the garage to check, or else I'd never have gone back to sleep.
The PAS / water pump and the smaller outer crankshaft pulleys all line up together, the alt. and rearmost larger crank pulley are by themselves.
It's entirely down to the PAS belt being way too tight a fit... because of how the bracket works the tension is pulling the PAS pump up towards the water pump, but also more worryingly taking it away from the vertical too, meaning they're not only touching but not perfectly aligned either.
Not an ideal pic. to show the correct alignment, infact makes them look way off, but this is it set up perfectly, obviously less the belt.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/engine4-1920w.jpg)
What size belt have you got fitted here?
I find myself in the exact same situation as you now!
OK... incredibly it's been in excess of 6 months since I last signed in!
Reason? The spamming started up again soon after my last re-joining, plus the amount of days you'd sign in to see porn links and other dodgy posts was ridiculous.
Shame really that nobody was prepared to take the problems on board.
So this is a one off visit, primarily to close the account in case not doing so leaves things open in the future for any repeats.
Also going to take the opportunity to finalise Isaacs thread insofar as he's now all done, MOT'd and living a life again, but doubtless like any old car the story's always far from over.
Few piccies from today, before he gets a well deserved wash and tidy up in readiness of going into hibernation 'tll next year.
Didn't get to use him as much as hoped because of a few issues delaying things longer than planned over the better weather but even so still managed to rack up 500 odd enjoyable miles... so roll on 2023 and good luck / best of wishes everyone with your own projects.
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/1-8ed489cf-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/2-729f29e2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/3-36990494-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/4-b2bf7171-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/6-f06a32c9-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/5-cb16a9fd-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/7-7875d543-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/9-aed8a4e1-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/10-5dcbf9ee-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/8-e0641662-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/11-b072d4b6-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/13-fe3c9045-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/15-f599ad0b-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/12-407e7723-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/14-d43f74d2-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/16-084fef03-1920w.jpg)
(https://lirp.cdn-website.com/521a0932/dms3rep/multi/opt/17-40b27f24-1920w.jpg)
Shame you are stepping away, always nice to see your beaut , spam is a problem but shouldn’t beat you .. it’s still far better than face ache
That is stunning!