Hi. Restoring a 87 16v I used to own in the early 90's and have traced and bought back. Pulled it apart. Looms out and all. . Rolling shell is in the body shop for a full windows-out respray. Engine is in workshop for minimum re-bore, new pistons, and exhaust valve guides, but otherwise looks good. Gearbox looks good enough to go back in as-is. When the painted shell comes back the wheels and hangers will come off and all will be shot blasted and powder coated. Off the interior will go to the trimmers. Umming and ahhing over suspension. maybe just gas uprated struts. Got some 15 inch BBS cross spokes. Now ive got to remember how it goes back together - yikes. Wish me luck.
Sounds really good. Do you have any photos of the work being done?
Has it had many owners since you sold it back in the 90's?
Hi Nige.
Keeping a photo record and will publish.
Just one owner all that time between me and , well, me, , although she had in her own and her daughter's name.
I tracked it down when I saw it driving locally and she was good enough to sell it to me when she gave up driving. She then pranged it while we a]were negotiating, so it was written off by insurers on economy grounds, but I bought it anyway to restore it as a project.
Just the budget slowing me down getting it back on the road. Hopefully end of September maybe, or definitely the Spring in full restored glory.
Eddie
It's a shame the insurance company wrote the car off, was it badly damaged or just cosmetic?
Has it been well looked after, with a decent service history?
Look forward to seeing the pictures, sounds like a lot of work gone into her.
Right, this is how it began:
I used to drive Golf GTis and once owned this 16v car. I drove many happy miles in it, from around 30k. An inheritance later prompted me to trade it in for a brand new VR6, which I then owned for 12 years. If I'm honest, the VR6, whilst being fast and smooth, felt soft and mushy in comparison, and I always preferred the feel and setup setup on the 16v. Children dictated my choice of car after 2003, - currently an S-max, (which is actually a fine car).
As the years went on I started looking for a hobby car. Seeing my old 16v still around in town a few times made me think of perhaps owning that car again. I started carrying a pre-typed note, and I even asked a few friends that remembered it to look out for the owner, and to let them know that I was Interested if it was ever for sale. One day a friend rang me to say that he had seen it parking and had a chat with the owner (we'll call her Joan) on my behalf. Joan had bought the car from my VW dealer for her daughter when I traded it in. Her daughter and her son-in law had driven it for a couple of years, then Joan had driven it ever since then. Joan loved the car, and didn't want to sell it yet. She said she had been made many offers to buy the car, but she recognised my name from all of the old service history documents she had for the car, and so left her contact details for me.
I rang Joanand had a long chat about the car. We compared notes on our respective times with the car, and liked each other immediately. She said she'd be sure to let me know if she was thinking of selling. She warned me that the car had an agreed valuation on It with her insurers, so she wasn't going to give it up for a song!! Not having a lot of money to spend, it seemed a bit of a remote chance to me.
One sunny Sunday morning in October, I again saw the car and took some photographs (feeling a bit if a stalker!). I saw that it has some of the classic golf rust and damaged areas, but not many or extensive decay. It looked a bit tired inside and out, with an aftermarket stainless exhaust that seemed slightly too big for it. But it seemed to be a structurally good and basically sound car. But it was out of my league if it was expensive, though.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vYAxEmc1SoQCUbY5A
https://photos.app.goo.gl/R4JusQoGRrxnaqmU7
On the following Tuesday I had a call from Joan in a very upset state. She said that on the Sunday she had finally decided that she was going to ring me this week and offer me the car for sale. She had driven it into town and parked (where I had seen the car and photo'd it). Then she had driven to a supermarket where her feet had slipped off the pedals and she had hit a steel bollard stoving in the front of the car and spilling all the coolant onto the road. Her insurers were coming to assess the car.
She seemed to be apologising to me for crashing what she clearly thought ought to be my car! I told her I was still interested in buying the car if the price suited the condition, which cheered her greatly.
The insurance assessor wrote the car off due to light structural damage to the passenger side front chassis rail, combined with the need for all of the front panels and bonnet to be replaced and painted. They offered Joan the agreed value. I had briefly looked at the car, and thought writing it off was a bit severe. I asked Joan to get a price to buy the car back from the.insurers, which she did. I paid what they asked via Joan and the car was mine.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EoFEBSWxaT5FB223A
Next weekend it started first go. I towed the car home and started to strip it down to see what was what, with my heart slightly in my mouth.
First Impressions
The point of impact had bent all of the front panels and grilles, damaging the radiator, fan, and shroud.
The passenger side chassis rail was bent up in the middle, and seemed to have sustained a fair bit of denting and paint damage before, perhaps from rough treatment when getting engine or gearbox out in the past.
The intrusion had touched on the front engine subframe, but the subframe looked intact and straight.
The bonnet was mangled but the rear anchors had held and the scuttle and screen were untouched.
The front outer wings were already a bit rusty and had been bent a bit, both historically and by this incident, but the inner wings seemed to have only been lightly distorted and were solid with no corrosion.
The front lights were all intact except both indicator lenses.
The gearshift felt very poor which made me worry the engine had moved, but there was heat damage to the plastic parts of the gear linkage behind the engine which I hoped was the true cause.
Otherwise:. The rear arches looked okay, but had been repaired a few times, so this was a likely problem area.
The sills, suspension and underside otherwise looked great. Very good for a 30 year-old car.
The rear slam panel had been repaired more than once.
Inside:. The drivers seat foam is disintegrating, especially the door side lateral foam. The seat tilt mechanism first work and the vinyl sides are torn where the tilt cables run.
The head lining is sagging at the back. Probably a sign of the sunroof seal failing.
The dash lights don't work.
The rear parcel shelf doesn't have speaker holes in it ( "uncommon" !), but the hinges are broken.
An aftermarket radio proved so hard to remove I had to bend the cage and cut some wires, so this will need replacing.
Some extra dials had been fitted to the central console. voltage, oil pressure, oil temperature.
At least two different aftermarket alarm/immobiliser systems had been fitted, neither of which were operational.
Within the engine compartment, the engine had a lot of oil on the cambelt end. It is hard to see if this is from spills when filling, but the extent of it looks like a cam cover gasket problem. Joan said it didn't use much oil, but then she drove very few miles.
The cam belt felt loose, and I couldn't find any record of a belt change.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pSeFMV4fPnEjzzS48
I was still toying with having the front fixed and then doing a on-road restoration as funds allowed.
Not wanting to risk any engine damage, I thought I'd change the cam belt. This means removing /replacing the water pump, but is easy with the front panels of the car removed. I started to do this, but one Allen key bolt into the water pump bracket that is inserted from the cambelt end of the engine just wouldn't budge and access was hard to do much about it.
Not wanting to strip the Allen fitting, I abandoned the job. The engine had to come out and an impact driver used on it.
This was the last small issue that made up my mind on a strip-down restoration - at least of the front end.
Out she comes and lets see what's really to do.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mygnMP5vB8K7xdJ59
I started to pull off and label all of the wiring and sone bulky /heavy ancillary engine parts., Labelling things as I went. Fuel injection, plenum chambers, washer bottles and the like. What it was clear enough, I removed the engine. This was very tight, and I could understand how damage could easily be caused to the rails by attempting such things with the front panels of the car still on.
Once the engine was out, time to finish the bonnet strip. I needed the chassis to roll, still, at it is being repaired and and painted a few miles away. So I had to leave rear engine subframe, steering rack, and driveshafts (you can't move the car without driveshafts in place or the wheel bearings get damaged).
Brake servos and pedal connections and wiring looms were made easier by a complete dash removal, Including steering wheel. This exposure might also make sorting and removing/replacing all the aftermarket wiring easier too. But it doesn't look too tidy with the dashboard out.
The looms were difficult to get out and were labelled extensively. I worry about my skills putting this back in, with all its clips and connections, but all in good time!
So now the engine bay is clear, time to think about cleaning the chassis up. Trouble is, it will clean so much better with all the plastic body trim and lights etc removed, as who knows what's lurking?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nAVMLiX4YRBrYB9T9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yiqujxxiq6Y2Z9rm8
Another half day taking off trim and handles.
Dang! Last job before cleaning! Removing a seized bolt in the rear spoiler. Rear window shattered. Special one with three holes for the spoiler. Ah well.
On to the wash pan. Jacked up one side. Wheels off. Seriously aggressive cleaning chemicals. Spray on. Wait, steam clean off. Repeat and repeat. Clumps of mud coming out of rear wheel arches. Not rusty at top (maybe low mileage and garaging meant it dried and stayed dry). But wheel arch rims have suffered a bit, especially bottom corners.
Wheels inside rims take some serious acid to clean too.
Result: couple of new problem areas, but normal wheel arch stuff. One area front of sill drivers side might need a small weld repair, or might clean up Bit if rear balance attention needed. But amazing underneath and sub frames. Really good condition for 30 years old.
Wheels back on to do the bodywork.
All amazing. Leaving the roof rail gutter and side rubber trims and the sticky stripes to the body shop. They look tricky.
Some wax still on the chassis has to wait until it is dry. But otherwise ready for the body shop.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nRFgnkJHvRqhunhm7
Here you can see the damage to the passenger chassis rail that made it an uneconomic repair for the insurance company, but easily fixed by a competent body specialist.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dL8Vc6VUeZFBaMmi8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/S4SQ5HDNbnPFQeK87
Found a few hidden bits needing attention.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qd9gkLaRmmPPhgYt7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hRQH6bQCsYSEPp777
So, off to the body shop. Genius Paul in charge. Chassis rail, wheel arches and bits and bobs then full exterior and under bonnet respray, if you please. See you in a few months.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fe7zTb1FdRQCuSSb6
And so to the engine. Whats that oil leak from?
Well, stripped it down without much misadventure, shearing only two top-hose connection studs in the head. Have to say, doesnt seem too worn to my lay eye, but at £125k miles, best to get a second opinion. Into the car then.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JjagNcNW1iHzJCr37
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a99XNbfcVxGTrCoVA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZQ2vzc3nYCfmwNJx7
Kelvin at SES in Bognor agrees, its very lightly worn for the miles. Borderline rebore or just new pistons. But the bores are a little a bit oval, so rebore it is. Skim the head, (block is flat and doesnt need it). Inlet valves and guides will come up nicely no change needed. Exhaust valves are fine, but guides are worn. So, good clean up, new exhaust valve guides and 3 angle cuts all round. Crank is 'good as gold' so just a polish. New Mahle forged Pistons and rings, and a new oil pump. See you in a few weeks!
So now, my car body has gone away, the engine has gone away, and i'm left to clean up all of the bits and bobs. Without losing the labels that say what it ids and where it goes...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/M2vzZhhXx1zFUHzS6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dC2onRK2G9z43Q1n9
So- looms are scrubbed,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SNgcJkXrd42jRxm68
door trims came up fabulous
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BsRFkMJ33ooRtk3PA
Wishing i'd taken the seats out of the body now, but they can wait. Mirrors and door handles are refurbed and remotes working. Engine ancillaries and injection bits all cleaned and ready to go back in.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zAgea2Zdxn8dpZqv5
Taking the chance to re-plate some of the nickel bits - like this gearbox bracket
https://photos.app.goo.gl/23HaqDeFc5WWbTh69
now looks like this - wow.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pDdc1wjvyAkHZi476
And to make the alloy bits stand out. This is Allochrome finishing. Double wow.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mFAArtrUU5HyDDa29
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6pgJ3NK2CUtvAtu39
I've decided to take a gamble on the gearbox and not strip it down completely, as the engine was so lightly worm. That may be a mistake, but I can only cope with so much of my car in single components at a time! Ive replaced the linkages and it'll have a new clutch.
When the body comes back i'm going to:
1) Pull the suspension off it, shot blast and powder coat and back on with poly bushes.
2) Standard - but gas filled - struts, I think.
3) These cross spoke BBS wheels I have picked up (to be refurbished, obvs) as they were a standard option in their day , are 15 inch and easier to get decent tyres for than the original Bottle top 14s. https://photos.app.goo.gl/pZpkcCYwuDn9Cpws7
4) Pull off the fuel pump and tank and underseal the entire shell while its bare.
5) Take out the seats and send them off to the trimmers.
6) Put in a new headlining.
7) Get an electrician to sort out the loom that ive by then put back in all wrong (i suspect)! correct the multiple mods that have been made over 30 years of alarms and stereos, then put in a decent immobiliser.
8) I have a OE 1990 power steering rack and a selection of pulleys to play with, so I may get the rack checked and see if I can add this period option.... views?
Then the rebuild begins. Please do watch this space....
Sounds really good. Do you have any photos of the work being done?
Has it had many owners since you sold it back in the 90's?
Hi, I have done a brief history and pictures to date in the thread now.
It's a shame the insurance company wrote the car off, was it badly damaged or just cosmetic?
Has it been well looked after, with a decent service history?
Some chassis rail damage, not too bad, but understandably complex for the insurance company to write it off.
Ive done some pictures of my findings and working to date.
Sounds really good. Do you have any photos of the work being done?
Has it had many owners since you sold it back in the 90's?
Ive done some history in the thread now. Hope it interests you.
Look forward to seeing the pictures, sounds like a lot of work gone into her.
I've done some more description and opctures of the work to date in the thread. Hope it is of interest.
Great write up, should be fantastic once it's finished. Looking forward to more updates.
Best colour as well 8)
Thanks,. I'm right with you on the colour. Nige!
Moien an häerzlech wëllkomm beim Club!
Looks very good and to get your old car back is very special. Would be great to have this on some club stands once all this covid stuff is out of the way.
Wow!
You're going to make Joan cry again when she sees it finished!!
Well, thanks to Kelvin at Sussex Engineering Supplies, the engine machining is done. Hoorah!
Check those fresh-honed bores out.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sT4ueNk1QQfDm7aM7
and those shiny valves and crank!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gFeyGD29tFTh82DV6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SMbSfYAin8jYLt9p6
I must say I haven't seen this much excitement in the back of my S-Max for a few years!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/H87DWugTTYLQMUUh8
Now, where did I put my note of where it all goes back together........
Looks like you got some good head in the back of that s max!
Two pistons looked brown and maybe ran a bit rich, but two looked like this.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ebdAt5tndKKNmztw8
May need a reconditioned fuel distribution unit. Lets see when the new injectors are on - not for a couple of months yet.
Meantime, cleaned up, these beauties'll cut in half to make nice desk ashtrays (how non-PC) for some of my more piston-headed mates, even though none of them smoke!.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2rdi6E2o7Cy6i1qP6
Same old 16v GTI pistons cleaned up!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QZJm1Jsq4bj7zi3B8
All your photo links from the past couple of posts seem to be broken
Hey, I’m looking for some advice....
I have my granny’s MK2 1989 vw golf. It’s only done 24k and is in really good condition... how do I price this when I sell it????
Hey, I’m looking for some advice....
I have my granny’s MK2 1989 vw golf. It’s only done 24k and is in really good condition... how do I price this when I sell it????
Probably the wrong thread to be asking this kind of question as it is likely to be missed so you are better off starting a new one in the General Chat section. You will likely get multiple answers but it would be helpful to add more specifics such as engine size, trim level, colour, number of doors etc as this will have an impact on the value.
All your photo links from the past couple of posts seem to be broken
Thanks. I'll check that when I get home.
All your photo links from the past couple of posts seem to be broken
Try these, sorry about that.
Engine block painted. Oil pump arrived.. Ready to start assembly. Just mulling over the big end bolts. Genuine not available. Old genuine or new third party bolts....
https://photos.app.goo.gl/n6sTEwBmRwYqr1Uv6
A prize for anyone that can tell me what is wrong in this photo.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xUTcv54KxtnaBsew8
Fantastic work on the pistons! Great Transformation.
I replied to your other thread, but I'd go for ARP bolts, just for piece of mind.
BTW, stared at that photo of the head for longer than I should have and can't find the problem!
Thanks Whats ARP?
Well, the engine shop took out the exhaust manifold studs, presumably to help when they did their skim and valve seat stuff and a few helicoils. I was whiling away a few minutes happily sticking them all back in. When I'd finished I noticed i'd put them back on the wrong (inlet) side - and that takes bolts! And I've got some lovely new stainless ones for that. 20 more mins to take them out and put them in the right side!
Sorry, no prize!
Like I say, learning as I go along!
Oh Yeah! I completely missed that!!
ARP are the industry standard for upgraded engine bolts.
Their head bolts are very popular as you can re-use them.
https://arp-bolts.com/
American, but plenty of UK stockists.
Think I got mine off ebay.
Thank you. I see them. £147 a set.
I've got the Febi Bilsteins now. Aside from not being being re-usable, now I have them is there any real contraindication to using them, do you think?
Eddie
They are much stronger than standard, so if you were going or big power or particularly high revving, you;d certainly want a set.
I put them in the VR as we were charging it.
But Febi ones should be more than adequate for a normal rebuild.
Fair warning: If you get over-excited by VW Golf engines being worked on in machine shops, look away now.
Smallest overbore, just really to make the cylinders perfectly round again. https://photos.app.goo.gl/27FH2vKdCy7n354k9
Honing the new bores. https://photos.app.goo.gl/v52n383mZyDP4DXM9
Cutting the valves and seats. https://photos.app.goo.gl/RS61ZnyiNs7pYqQo9
Planing the head. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mg7T5U4cj8VBT8Ns7
Time to reassemble the head. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cRhjzfD3xK1Ff2NP7
Head ready for another 125k miles! Or maybe just to look at! https://photos.app.goo.gl/LAYMZteKPgocahsA6
I warned you!
Work done by Sussex Engineering Supplies in Bognor. Lovely guys. Kelvin the mechanical magician.
Gosh those big end bolts were hard to find. Cancelled orders x 3! Finally secured them from GoSpares - I hope, fingers crossed - they say they are in transit - woohoo! Thanks so much for the tip on this site.
Now, does anyone know where I can get some door bins with speaker pods in them without paying the Earth...??
Hmm. Bit of a set back today on the big-end bolt front. I had asked the engineering shop if I should bring them in or have a go, and they said have a go. The bolts are a very tight fit and I had to wind them in using a nut with increasing numbers of washers, with brass ones at the bottom end to stop them damaging the con-rod.
It looks like they've come out of the con-rod at a slight angle, as now I cant get the cap on. Also, by eye it looks like the flat shell case may be distorted near the bolt exit, so I think I may have wrecked the con rod. Ah well, back to the engineers shop Monday for advice! Left the other three pistons well-alone!
On the plus side, the crankshaft went into the main bearings a treat, at least. Spins nicely free after torquing them up - and i didn't forget to put in the piston oil sprays first too!
Onwards and upwards
Got the new con rods and Pistons in and torqued up today, and put a few bits on the front of the engine.
Bottom end before Oil pump. https://photos.app.goo.gl/UCMu19FtJg8uJWEe7
Lovely new pistons https://photos.app.goo.gl/X3275zFkk6oCFY3x7. Took me a while to master the wind-up Snap-On spring compressor, then easy peasy.
Sump on - Oh, yes, bolts are all stainless. The wife insisted - at least I think that's what she said... https://photos.app.goo.gl/JqnnexmTKx3KAhbx5
I don't know why I painted the breather red - just got in the queue when I was painting other stuff!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/13yuS2j16wLN4oAt8
I'm having problems finding the right replacement crank end bolt. Thats another thread!
Head next....
Found some lovely genuiine roof bars still in the box on eBay too, just like when I used to take the windsurfer down to the beach. Had to buy 'em,.... Thinking ahead maybe....
Had a day to do some more Golf today, weather, permissions, etc. all in place. Wohoo!!.
Drove down to the workshop to put the cylinder head on and get the cams and timing sorted, but you can only achieve so much when the timing chain turns out to be the wrong one! Got the head on and did some frittering about with sensors and swapping in stainless bolts and nuts etc., where I can, then came home and ordered a new timing chain. Hopefully finish off the cam end and assemble the clutch end next time.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/C42aseExjoaxR4uu7
Looking good that and look forward to seeing the results post body shop. I'm just waiting to move house and will be following a similar journey to you - strip down and send the shell off to the bodyshop.
Your alloys will look nice and were an optional extra back in the day. I have teardrops on mine but will be getting a set of period BBS's too.
Thanks. I like the bottletops, and have five (plus 4 centres), but its hard to get decent 14 inch tyres. Gone are the days of 14 inch P60's! Ive got a couple of sets of alternative BBS wheels as options, but I'm thinking 15 inch RAs with Continental or Michelin tyres at the moment as the 'sweet spot' to look a little better, stay period, and to get power down with decent grip and feel.
I'm having problems finding the right replacement crank end bolt. Thats another thread!
Wow. Found the right crank end bolt on a Dutch site in the end. I dont speak Dutch so asked a Dutch cousin living in Germany to buy it. He ordered it and sent it to me. Woohoo! Roll on the weekend. Hope ive got the proper timing chain too.
I have two other crank bolts (one 12 point and one a bit longer) for a good home of you contact me! see photo
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yH6CWZC9nyZBb3Es5
Im getting to the point of needing to think about exhausts. Its got a Milltek big bore stainless noisy manifold and exhaust, and I'd frankly rather have the quieter original. I guess I have to buy a new manifold. Are quiet systems around or do I need to have one made?
I'd go with Trackslag all day long.
I've been playing with mk2s for over 20 years now and they are easily the best designed and manufactured systems you can fit.
They do a comfort system, which is notably quieter than the standard range.
I have both and compared them at the track, (using their test equipment) finding the comfort system to be just over 12db quieter than their normal one.
If you find them on Facebook, there are videos people have posted up to give you ideas.
I'd go with Trackslag all day long.
I've been playing with mk2s for over 20 years now and they are easily the best designed and manufactured systems you can fit.
They do a comfort system, which is notably quieter than the standard range.
I have both and compared them at the track, (using their test equipment) finding the comfort system to be just over 12db quieter than their normal one.
If you find them on Facebook, there are videos people have posted up to give you ideas.
Fantastic. Thanks Monkey. Eddie
Ive had a look and they do a comfort 2.25 inch system, which looks like it will suit my needs to look pretty much original. Am I right in thinking I just need to source a OEM manifold to fit it? Thanks in advance.
What manifold have you got? If you've got something like a four branch and don't want to loose the power gains, you can adapt the exit of the four branch to suit the new exhaust.
Most manifold de-coupliers are standard parts., so you can buy the accompanying part and get it welded to the correct size pipe for your exhaust.
Finaished the engine timing belt end and clutch end and got the gearbox on today - major step forward.
Im hoping this is how you use the cambelt tensioning tools! https://photos.app.goo.gl/zcgtpSpaho2oHGA37
Covers on and looks the biz https://photos.app.goo.gl/iwB3JcZinBAUaJAm8
Alochromed Camshaft cover looks good enough to hang on the wall. https://photos.app.goo.gl/eJU92imRoLkuoU3VA
Zany clutch goes on backwards, so had to eyeball the alignment. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7cEVnuce6knMkgDh6
Got it right, as box went on first go. https://photos.app.goo.gl/sjvALRS1rE1hXBqK6
Will do the release bearing too, and have ordered a new green disc cover, but i'll take the clutch arm off and clean it off first. https://photos.app.goo.gl/oVACNUUFZNsjxYaY7
Can any one help me remember what covers this small gap at the back by the passenger side of the diff output shaft? None of my bits in boxes and buckets seem to look like they fit. Gulp... https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zg3Gws8mDTL5p2LQ9
And during another part of the rebuild Ive also got to find out where these go, as they are unlabelled - anyone offer a clue please?! https://photos.app.goo.gl/kqVPLLBnUWB9EARu9
All in all,a good day, though. Have a great weekend.
They look like the nuts and bolts holding the rear bumper bar to the bumper mounting brackets...
Fab. Spot on. I remember now. Thanks. E
What manifold have you got? If you've got something like a four branch and don't want to loose the power gains, you can adapt the exit of the four branch to suit the new exhaust.
Most manifold de-coupliers are standard parts., so you can buy the accompanying part and get it welded to the correct size pipe for your exhaust.
Thanks Monkey. So maybe i tell them the manifold i have and they provide me with the rest if the system? E
Hi I have just started on this jorney with my 91 16V, very intresting reading, thanks for posting it all.(https://i.postimg.cc/3N5nDHPq/IMG_1104.jpg)
Yeah Phil, these threads are great for inspiration. :)
Eddie, can you get some photos of your existing manifold and exhaust, then we can see what needs to be done.
Thanks Monkey.
The four branch in the car had very little space at the back of the engine (I had to move the engine forward to get it off the head). It also seemed to develop a lot of heat, even melting the gearshift connections, but then the previous ;ady owner only drove it around town so this may have been a heat factor. Anyway, I like originality, and I'm selling it to someone that wants the power and noise!.
I think I've secured a factory manifold now, and am hoping that will be the best starter for ten. So I need a twin tube to mount to that, do I not?
Thanks so much for your help. Eddie
But this was the old manifold and exhaust i took off.
Current system photos
Manifold https://photos.app.goo.gl/7uVyfybJW22NpqDq5
Full system https://photos.app.goo.gl/KgTy2Y5FWmaqj7T37
Rear box https://photos.app.goo.gl/rHXZUhjV7AHnG6iU9
Middle section https://photos.app.goo.gl/R4UA5Ssi57SHT6fE6
The manifold is 4 x 1 1/2 inches down to a 2" exit pipe. So there's little room around it. If the Trackslag system could fit a twin downpipe to a stock VW twin pipe manifold then I'd be happier for space and heat shielding etc.
The reason why it melted everything is it wasn't heat wrapped.
If you put some on, that would keep temps down a lot better.
But not to worry if it's sold.
You'll need the manifold and the downpipe, that should leave you with a pipe you can fit a sleeve to, in order to mate the Trackslag system up.
Thanks Monkey, but doesnt the standard 16v downpipe have a 2 into 1 silencer on it? like this?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wZb8df7v6vjufSwd9
Or is there another downpipe I can get hold of?
That's the bit you're after.
There may be an alternative, but when people look to upgrade the exhaust, they usually just go straight for a four branch.
Okay, I may need to get one, or get one made. Shouldn't be hard. Ive asked Trackslag what they think too. Im so grateful for your help once again. Eddie
(https://i.postimg.cc/mZzPP4rj/5-EE12723-EE21-436-C-B2-A2-37-EA77-E0450-F.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Rh6J95WP/61589725593-82-F42-CE2-9-AE1-4-FCF-95-ED-0-A03-D50-DB125.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/s25Bgd4x/IMG_1383(1).jpg)
Kerrikey! I think you've got some welding to do there.
If youre going to do a thread story on it, I think I started mine in the wrong place, or should have changed a whilke back. . I'm going to ask advice on how to switch it to Members Cars. I may have to do quite a few cuts and an enormous paste! Wait for a quiet evening in - I hear weve got some coming!
Eddie
PS How did you paste the live pictures? I'd like to do that instead of posting links to Google pics.
Gosh Phil that is some welding to do. But all achieveable and even more so if you can do it yourself.
Eddie instead of using google photos (i use that for my normal photos but it doesn't allow you to embed pics on forums) i use this https://pfnsht.imgbb.com/albums for forums.
You load photos on there and then it creates a link you can copy and paste like the below (pick BBCode Full or Medium)
[ url=https://ibb.co/ZSXcWcT](https://i.ibb.co/3vdSBSh/20200704-185010.jpg)[/url ]
I've added spaces so hopefully it doesn't show a picture.
edit - oh well it has added a picture I think you get me!
(https://i.postimg.cc/K8wnJWsG/post-image.jpg)
I use postimage, same as...
Seats are coming up okay (before and after).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4zvju2BnCMb5qx4Y9
Anyone know if the grey squab-side bolster material and foam is still available?
That's the bit you're after.
There may be an alternative, but when people look to upgrade the exhaust, they usually just go straight for a four branch.
Going back to exhausts if I may, does anyone have any experience of the SSP manifold sold by Heritage? it looks like it comes with the right heat shields, etc.. I'm trying to do original where I can but the OEM exhaust as a whole is difficult and very expensive. I'm not looking for out and out power and or noise, and would potentially marry this manifold to a Trackslag comfort system. What does anyone think of the value, noise, fit of this as a proposal, please?