VW Golf Mk2 Owners Club

General => Members' Cars => Topic started by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 03:40:39 PM

Title: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 03:40:39 PM
Right so bear with as the first few posts are copy and pasted from the old forum, starting from when I first took the golf off of the road as prior to that, all I had done was taken a standard 8V GTI, blew the engine up, dropped a 16v engine in, spun the bottom end bearings, replaced the engine for one with a trashed head, bolted a new head on and it never started again.. so I decided to rip it apart

Some posts may be out of context but the timeline will still fit... this starts in January 2014

I started this project when I was about 18 so some of the “earlier” methods and approaches were a bit terrible, but it’s all been a learning curve, I have no background in mechanics or engineering as I worked in a leisure centre for many years and now work front line for the ambulance Service, everything you see here is self taught, I have failed, learnt, failed and learnt some more so if you have any doubt in your skills or tools.. when I started this build I had a 24 piece socket set, 4 screw drivers, a hammer, a dodgy Halfords jack and some odd sized Allen keys.. and a few years down the line I’m aiming for a 600+ VR6T converted to 4WD
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 03:50:35 PM
I found myself a garage and started stripping it down, dash and looms removed, labeling as I was going, there's nothing on it now apart from the running gear and steering rack, on taking it apart I realised it had rusted out quite badly, I started to think about selling it for a new shell but after some quick texts, my mates dad is welding it up

The suspension turret on the drivers side front is being seam welded along a hairline rupture in the paint, just to be safe, the bulkhead is being cut and a plate welded in, passenger sills, front, rear, inner and outer are being rewelded, along with a new rear passenger arch, the drivers side rear putter sill has a hole through it, the rear valance and boot panel are rotted through, with very bad previous repair.. Literally a bit of filler and spray..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/EC7EDDC8-B9D4-4763-8303-C10CC2358D72_zpsxgd2yd0z.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DD92D755-FE54-4394-A5E9-78034043DEA4_zpsyjibyvha.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/EF535009-6453-4BE7-9834-16F295E03527_zpsj47fplx7.jpg)

As soon as i can find someone to trailer it to his work it'll be going in for the welding..
But anywho.. The new heart of the car, 2.8 VR6 OBD1..

I bought this off of a bloke in Wales, turned up for him to say it's a bare block.. Aswell as saying he hadn't taken out the Ecu or loom, subframe or running gear, Wasn't happy.

So after examining it we took it back home, then realised how much we actually needed, it was on the cards to be sold for a donor, but after a cheeky look on eBay, I found a full CE2 loom for sale, uncut.. Purchased.

Then a phone call to my friend to say someone at his work has a OBD1 VR breaking! Bargain, all of the parts I was missing were all being collected!

All of the below apart from the manifold were needed..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/425B09BB-8024-4838-9948-EE13AC44B4EB_zpsbdburbja.png)

Nowhere on eBay or forums had them, lucky me!

It's not in the best state either, still needing the running gear and the gearbox, it's racking up to be a lot!

New ally pulleys, cams, stage 2 clutch and a budget rebuild is on the cards

I luckily picked up a hydro pedal box from volksmania, along with the master cylinder and reservoir, already cut and welded..


All for £60!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 04:12:02 PM
I sold the old VR engine after thinking the guy who sold it to me was a bit dodgey, told the seller but he didn't mind cause he was rebuilding it! And the fact that there was way too many parts required and would of cost me a bomb.. So I got this!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F2429C48-7115-4617-BB15-75543A85CC21_zpsk1wx6x47.jpg)

80k automatic engine, will be converting it to manual though, it has everything bar the loom, picked it up for £160!

I have some shiney bits too go on too, and some vibratechnics to keep it solid

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D4C136CF-E554-41DC-9C83-92EC3C9DB22D_zpsywop2lwz.jpg)

I also met a guy on the Facebook page selling parts, he's only over Rhondda so it's not to far for me, he's really fair with his prices and has a lot of stuff I needed! Two trips up and back over two months got me:

Eibach ARB's
Mint dash
Electric windows
Electric mirrors
Central locking
Whole VR6 running gear
Powerflex steering rack bushes
Single wiper conversion
And little other bits...

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/6939FE71-EFD8-4D8A-B6C1-983D81E6A838_zpsj4ftp5lv.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/42D9F1B1-5B16-40AF-8380-A5BE2870498B_zps752ddadw.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D309B079-C388-463E-8C3F-603C4EBCFBF7_zpsx6y8ihe3.jpg)

It didn't break the bank either!

I ordered some Powerflex bushes to complete it all, they turned up along with about a million other packages, mostly bolts, tools and little fittings

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/23685A99-1CCE-47E2-8046-40B1A6345C98_zpsad79qb5v.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/FA33F844-7F4C-4592-9E05-1F61D31E9232_zps0qzapa8o.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/04E721D1-07D0-4B58-A34D-568CC4DA72E3_zpspgivh92b.jpg)

I got on with painting the subframe and wishbones as soon as the weather sorted itself out..


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/162A1EFD-2FA1-4BD2-B283-22EC0CBACD31_zpsksur0nth.jpg)

I got carried away and started fitting the bushes when the wishbones dried, forgetting a press is needed I took it into my own initiative by jacking my car up and dropping the wheel onto the bush, acting as a press..

Wishbones:

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/94AC396D-C87C-489D-B67D-02BD8C617E2C_zpszfvp7n7c.jpg)

Subframe:

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3F04F8A1-42AE-41C5-AB2C-E29CA9922C1E_zpsxxkzgvkw.jpg)

Although the rear beam is a different story..

So I started stripping it down, got to the chassis mounts, struggled to remove the corroded bolts off, to top it some ape had butchered te inside of both of the carrier Allen key bolts so it was completely round..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A35D2754-60E7-47AA-8309-FDAA115E184A_zpsrrtvrfr1.jpg)

Upon researching I found that Irwin bolt removers were the best option, and my god they were! I hammered it over and it removed it effortlessly! Well.. I say effortlessly I had a breaker bar with a 32mm spanner on it for leaverage.. A couple of ping sounds later they were removed easily!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/26916244-7F73-4519-ABD6-EA23B01D4788_zpssxqspc8i.jpg)

I honestly recommend these to everyone working on their car!

Upon removing everything else I noticed half of the copper lines were corroded and way past their use, so I need to find new ones too..

I then took a junior hack saw, a hammer and a hacksaw to the bushings, 4 hours an 5 blades later I got through the first one, but had to give in because of my stroppyness of thinking that the outter ring had corroded to the rear beam and tree was no way of making it a clean smooth hole again, what I didn't realise is what I was picking at trying to clean up was in fact the outter ring! It needs to be sawn and removed using a hammer.. Job for next time!


Making progress..

A few days later my heritage order came in, track rods, track rod rubbers, clamps and a GTI plate holder, but upon realising VR6 and corrado ones are different I soon sent the track rods back! Now looking for decent replacement parts!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E6E66F1D-AAAB-4D4A-9A43-55594D4512A4_zpsiiysrnp7.jpg)

Aswell as that my corrado ECU, transponder and chip came through

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/47826C7D-78B6-44BE-AA3F-6D97C724B282_zpsbzlrxkkb.jpg)

The list is getting smaller but so is the space to keep it all!

As soon as it's welded up, I can start putting everything together!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 04:36:45 PM
past few months have been more collecting up and cleaning up, this month it was sent off to be welded up at my mates dads, it has some power so I started to clean up my dash and stray to dynamat it:

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/FC020EE5-2DC7-4A4B-8198-02D98A13F54A_zpsgj364jkm.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/87C749AE-BE09-4CDB-8F9F-156B7AADDC7E_zpsldghwqng.jpg)

I also drilled the holes for the clutch master cylinder and dented the chassis leg for the crank pulley clearance, while it is down there I will do a minor shave of the bay and spray it ready to put the engine in.

I got my hands on a set of samco hoses for quite cheap too and to utilise them all and get as much cooling as possible I opted for a MK3 VR6 fan instead of the corrado or a aftermarket set up:

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/402318F2-23FE-4913-BB14-DB956D1E67AC_zpsizitmzen.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2B59EBB8-D121-4539-8DA3-15E1575A824B_zps9d4vdm8q.jpg)

The idea is to cut the slam panel off and literally use the fan mounting panel which covers the radiator and bolts in until I can afford to fork out the scene tax of a rado radiator.

I managed to get a brand new set of Thule roof mounts for £14 from halfords from a friend.. Should look the part and help me take my bmx places too


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/5A640903-D612-4535-ADEA-BCC1928EA14C_zpsbkcp8c2t.jpg)

Also fitted along with my weight saving bulkhead
 
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/0E373693-4E64-48FB-BE94-2A0B4A256D12_zps2km3fxlw.jpg)

Also had a bit of a crazy one this month, spent well over £500 and I'm suffering from it:

Sachs Flywheel because of mine being a auto originally

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D9BBCBF1-9084-4978-BA60-6DED999A5794_zps60gpdcyi.jpg)

Sachs Clutch

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/761A1E78-24C6-4DB4-88E2-AD1D8BA5ADAA_zpsdglr9342.jpg)

Green stuff pads and black diamond rear pads

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F8B028AA-A0FD-44A3-B962-71330F93BA22_zpsro4wj1xv.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B8DBB7DB-11BC-41D0-AD51-778089B8A150_zpsru4lr70s.jpg)


And some meyle bearings, I'm going FAG on the front but I couldn't find any which wernt £637289173627 for the rears:

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F466D05C-E399-4D3D-9466-8E1C51C25F84_zps8smwip1t.jpg)

I also bought a polished bay bolt kit, some random polished bolts like bonnet hinges, slam panel and various engine Bay Area bolts along with polished fuel tank straps, beaded fuel lines, fuel filter and cleaned up my VR6 fuel tank read to go in as soon as I get adapters

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/998B278D-7FAD-4668-ABD3-6AA4B8195834_zpsxczmxqnt.jpg)

My rear beam and subframe have been built up, along with a brand new genuine rear mk4 calliper, and the other cleaned using a ultrasonic bath, both painted racecar red for those increase in BHP, track rods need fitting on the front along with the hubs and callipers being painted when they're back from being cleaned

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/90B2A71A-2D98-4E07-9C49-56917935FAD7_zpsb89d5wvb.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/25E4F351-BD0B-4250-8D01-ADDAC91D679B_zpshr0il4gm.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/AAA4F990-1EE9-4EDB-8CB3-19F7A3712299_zpsiynv37ez.jpg)

The rear brake set up can be put together as soon as I find my other carrier I lost.. Fail

I've opted for a A/c and PAS delete soo got a PAS rack delete kit and belt from the states too

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/59EE8812-698D-4F06-9C64-C8CB507F0E89_zpstkglakav.jpg)

A random shot of some work:


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D083692D-EFDD-4ECE-B50E-B34C7FA48D14_zpsight5kay.jpg)

The upper and lower inlet benefited from a clean and polish too, although the lower inlet is going matte black it was still nice to get rid of all the crud


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/390BE0D1-6186-4811-902B-12CEB5FC9D5B_zpspqidxfzw.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/142875F8-A389-43B9-9BE0-52564EBD18A4_zpsto2grlye.jpg)

Hopefully in a few weeks we may have the engine in after picking up my gearbox in the week..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 04:44:03 PM
Gave the callipers another coat of paint today and attached the track rods, can't wait to have the front hubs attached now!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DC78C51D-5F45-4FE7-8BB9-F4C5F15ADF70_zpsxvmkchki.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C1987D01-9018-416B-937F-2E6DCE5299E3_zpsiycvywin.jpg)


Also I have fibre glassed the back of both front door cards to strengthen them up cause of how flimsy they were, also to give it more of a dense noise when shutting the door along with the dynamat which will be installed.

Didn't really do much today cause I was cleaning it out and making room while the golf isn't in the garage.. Ready for the electric to go in for lights, compressor and heaters!

Under sealed the inner arches and inside the suspension turret, cleaned the 20+ years of crap from them and covered everything while I was at it, I'm hoping it should add a lot of protection, along with all the running gear under sealed water should just bounce off the bottom!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/BF6C2BA4-A334-476A-A5BA-B1364D3D5BEA_zpspqmbo4mq.jpg)

I painted the slam panel and radiator support panel so just waiting for one side to dry before moving onto the next.


Got my hands two Porsche D90's in 8J so I can get rid of the 6J fronts and run 8J all round, defiantly in need of a referb but they'll do for now! Going to fit the tyres in the week when the rear wheel bearings are pressed into my discs



(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/171B7C3A-CB14-49B8-B046-A3E3BFB6A2A9_zps1ueqoxdv.jpg)


Back from the welding last night and got straight on with work to it, it's been temp fillered over but it looks good!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/6157DEF2-B1ED-4802-B8C4-BC4BB55C372C_zpsnouypzij.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E572543E-650D-45A9-9365-A3391004C110_zpsi4oyufng.jpg)


Starting to make progress now, finished painting and undersealing the rad mount and slam panel just for that added protection and just pleasure for not cutting corners

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/0EB6C8A2-613B-4B27-9F52-745F08B5CC11_zpsti1h2bs2.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/48884F2C-22E5-4E76-B8CF-A7AEFD593770_zpsezt0apqj.jpg)

I also did the same to the floor pan for added density and just a bit of peace of mind incase it leaks again


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/FF491705-C065-4969-9693-29F166714FB9_zps5lchlams.jpg)

It'll be dynamatted over then covered with 35mm underlay

Also my crank oil seal turned up so we cracked the auto flywheel off and replaced the seal

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/251DC84E-6FE1-4111-A217-53AD63EF976E_zpsrzctwwnt.jpg)


Checked the chains and chain guides while I was at it and cleaned everything up, they're solid, no movement and all the guides are perfect, couldn't be more happy!

The dash is dynamatted same with the bulkhead so I could do this

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/42E8C044-07EC-472A-82A3-B49849869279_zps0scnngmn.jpg)

It'll be removed to fit the loom and heater stuff but it makes me feel that there is more progress happening!

Finished the fibreglass reinforcement of the door cards aswell, my fibreglass skills are pretty poor..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/78BC14C5-6396-4E45-938D-33EF07B3BCF7_zpsvu3yeb2a.jpg)

The headlining was removed and I began to fibreglass that, ran out of fibreglass after a 1/4 of it, fingers crossed it works!

3m of acoustic material and some High temp spray mount is in order for the new headlining, I'll sand down the surface first to ensure optimum contact area

I've also removed both rear quarters from the back to treat the rusted area where the seal sits along with by the boot, both will be treated and repainted and green tint glass installed..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 04:54:26 PM
Collected my gearbox last night and got on with the cleaning of it today as it was horrid! Will get on spraying it once my paint is here

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/BEB28ABB-81C4-4145-A5F0-ACD094323D8F_zpsqjto0evf.jpg)

Dismantled the front of the engine block to have the aux bracket and oil filter housing to be ultrasonic cleaned and sprayed, gave the engine block a clean in every crevice with a wire brush and some clutch cleaner and engine cleaner, gave it 4 coats of paint too, a million times better!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/59259D7C-23EE-4653-AA14-A9753E4B3AC5_zps8wc572cv.jpg)


Overspray on the head doesn't bother me cause it's all being wire brushed using a gun

My fuel lines turned up today but I was surprised to open them to find how short they are.. Stupidly I didn't read the description and thought they went from the tank-filter-fuel rail, but they're only the upper half, not to bother though cause the quality of them is amazing! Would recommend anyone needing VR6 fuel lines to get them from boostjunkies, they're chunky but they're amazing! Finished with syntec hose finishers

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D65AB874-51E3-40FA-B18A-921028CB9DAD_zpsffxogx1c.jpg)

I also started on treating the rusty sill I found the other day with some 80 grit, 150 and 500 grit to get them as clean as possible, I'll get some rust treatment and some zinc primer on it tomorrow

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/730F9010-C480-4BBA-8FEE-42A0AA1FC756_zpsrbduwmlo.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E0E6426C-2A61-4653-98A5-9791063FFA8C_zpsrko1cxjx.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/7B5C123A-B40B-45E9-A9DC-B450978CE977_zpsvg72q0iv.jpg)

Gearbox cleaned up yesterday, gave it a blast over with the air gun after to remove anything loose before I gave it a coat of paint

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/91BE4693-102F-4BA2-AAB7-4D212DA14250_zps7jkvbngr.jpg)

slightly disappointed in the colour, was aiming for a colour like this

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/EA3E9AA6-2679-40B9-BD70-97E00BF7AFC7.png_zpstirft6qh.jpeg)

But when I purchased silver High temp paint, I got this finish

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/909B959C-39B5-4F2A-8146-3CF55EFE1B60_zpsnrrrswga.jpg)

Regardless it's definitely a major improvement, once I've given it a few more coats once it's dry I'll take off the slave, 5th gear cover and tower to give them a black coat, need to buy a 5th end gasket too

Once all dry the flywheel and clutch can join into the engine and the box too!


So I carried my headlining from my garage because it was to big too fit, although it came back in two pieces once I taken it off..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3BA6F78F-E4BB-4226-BF3B-5B90FC361D67_zpskascn2d9.jpg)

I began to fibreglass the rear of it with the help of my mate but annoyingly ran out half way through! More arrived today so I'll crack on with it on Saturday

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CF53F3A2-62A4-4E98-A461-57D9298CA8C2_zpswhqftujj.jpg)

My fibreglass skills are pretty poor...

Although it's made it a million times stronger!

I won a set of H&R adapters 5x100-5x130 on eBay for £50 which is a pain because now I need to either find a cheap set again or buy a new set for £140.. Also the fact mine are currently 4x100-130 not 5x100, damn widetrack conversion!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/100641C3-3A90-428A-899E-38BAA8B6935B_zps05wp13vo.jpg)

My high temp adhesive turned up and so did my fabric for the headlining so once I have finished the fibreglassing and fixing of the headlining it'll be reupholstered and put back in!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/FD590425-9C7C-4966-A0DF-BA49F9963279_zpsijfgmnl1.jpg)

I've also began attacking the engine bay, I started with 80 grit then moving onto 240 just to rough it all up
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2328D99B-EEDD-4B3E-8A81-14166768F3FE_zpsule4fvr9.jpg)

Treating the rust patches and sanding as much as I could down without driving myself insane, I never got a end of prep photo because of the excitement of actually starting to spray the bay

I let my friend who's pretty decent with paint and cans have a go because I made a total mess out of it, we gave it two coats of primer before running out:

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DDFCFC6D-30FE-4CC1-9FB9-F75B57CE00F3_zpsfs2kkcsu.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B9AEF91B-D8C4-43B2-BC35-1031FF254181_zps4wky07l1.jpg)

Will finish it off with a few more coats on Saturday before starting colour on Monday!

I removed the dash again from its brackets and started to piece together the heater box, fixing the flaps inside the box and making sure the correct screws are used using Vag cat and good old google images, I'm aiming to have the dash loom, heater system and fuse box in by next Monday, gives me over a week but I need to aim high to get it done ready for summer!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 05:07:25 PM
I managed to fix my headlining and have it back in one piece, it's a mess currently but the whole things having one more layer of fibreglassing done to it, it's really sturdy!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/31F37271-DF88-41AD-A6CA-99357B7A1D17_zpstsizigws.jpg)

Just need to join the top together and then I can reupholster it

Had a nice package turn up yesterday from the states, trying not to be impatient and fit it all

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B0E09910-F70D-47E3-9FDC-C199EA51B7A2_zpsa9ltklub.jpg)

Both Inlet gaskets, a Bosch aux water pump, new thermostat housing kit and a billet crack pipe, some various engine bolts and some MK3 style handles..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D1195997-3B98-4F81-92EC-EC5A9A60A97E_zpsml7nxidd.jpg)

They're really good quality and for what I Would of paid for one normal handle I got both and they're different!

Today i gave the cylinder head a clean up to remove the dirt and oxidised parts, have some High temp lacquer arriving tomorrow so prevent it from happening again


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/89597ADB-8FC0-4F28-AF23-46F2C915EE1C_zpswjkjrptx.jpg)

I also sprayed some various parts to tidy them up, along with finishing the gearbox in the correct colour I wanted, the 5th gear cover and the gear selector and slave cylinder

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8727C860-E57D-4A7A-87AE-5EA0E998EB2C_zpsxfg1nwac.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/78474616-37B8-4167-A0DC-D4D47D461412_zpsizqiopvf.jpg)

And the lower Inlet to prevent heat soak from it being polished..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/AEFF4928-E61D-462A-B3B3-FB08DECF4BE7_zpsvficxxyv.jpg)

Along with the final two layers of primer for the engine bay

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/0180F73E-6F06-493F-A7E1-DCE59630FC0E_zps9g8ppaz4.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DA29E4A6-1836-4B6E-9CA5-B351918FB4C3_zpsv7rt8zcx.jpg)

At the moment it's very repetitive and slow! Until I'm paid again all I can really do is little things, I'm hoping to sell some parts on eBay to find some front wheel bearings to attatch my hubs and get the running gear on, meaning the engine can go in as soon as the bay is sprayed later in the week, and also once the wiring loom is installed!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 05:11:50 PM
Didn't get round to doing all the things I wanted to do as I'm still waiting for my heater matrix gasket, although it gave me time to fix my heater box using neoprene foam


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/7271D4A9-86FD-462B-8719-EE84D87A047D_zpso8cw6pwo.jpg)


I also managed to get some more hammerite to finish off the floor pan meaning it's now ready for the dynamat whenever I find £150


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C91B0754-FB59-48AD-950E-84B84C2518ED_zpsx1cj0e7d.jpg)


I gave the back of the welded arch a good coat for added protection on the repo panel.

On the subject of paint the bay finally got sprayed, I owe my mate some panel degreaser so he's holding my underseal ransom for the chassis legs, once they're beat in for the crank pulley they'll get a seeing too!


The cans we used to spray the atlas grey on were shocking... The quality was amazing! But the nozzle was a fan style and it sprayed was literally a jet of paint.. So we ended up standing back about 10ft and tried our best! After 24 layers of laquer too the finish wasn't too bad!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/01147F7A-3C3E-476B-802F-231EDCCF7C52_zpsqgu5h1zy.jpg)

I had another set back.. Upon attaching the flywheel three bolts had rounded themselves with my crappy tools meaning I had to order new ones from VW again.. And use a hammer and the correct sized piece to remove them to replace with the new ones! Then when fitting the pressure plate to the flywheel I snapped another pressure plate bolt which was brand new again!

Luckily last night i managed to remove it with a small screw driver as the flywheel and bolt were new, meaning it came out relatively easily!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/4463B3FC-E3FA-43F5-A242-4F88D0A78B26_zpsc8bc1sia.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2F8C2AA2-9156-408F-84F6-BBD80FEE720D_zps5mfht7sr.jpg)


So I'm off to pick up the new 6 bolts tomorrow along with the thermostat housing bolts and various other pieces including thrust washers and bolts for the rear beam bearings that my mate kindly pressed into my disks for me!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/AE8142B7-9CEE-47DF-89AC-690A2EE6298A_zpsi5ieced4.jpg)

Electric windows and mirrors were also fitted last night but we all know what they look like!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 05:21:18 PM
I ended up marrying the gearbox to the engine Finally

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/03331FFF-49F1-4AF5-8F9A-13CD901D0AB6_zpsyamnbz7b.jpg)
DIY engine stand..

I also fitted my rear disks, bearings and callipers

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3403FD49-D833-4A17-BEF6-ABEC111DA7C6_zps5x6minsv.jpg)

Pressed my black series powerflex bushes into my corrado cross member

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/75C58FFD-C495-4E96-BA0C-383256FDDF44_zpsmvgclswh.jpg)

Stupidly upside down, so I had to drill them through and scotchpad it down so the bolt went through properly

The wiring loom all went in and I started labelling things back up

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F18944B7-E030-47E8-9AC7-3A5EB600D7D7_zpsiv4dm8wu.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F8A336A2-E05B-4379-81C9-D94900FB3305_zpst0pegegx.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/5F0E4544-4B29-4F28-8BEA-D02F496A71E3_zpsrfo6ze6o.jpg)


And then something happened


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F3550E4F-62BD-4A6A-8572-EC1DA0D2ADB4_zpsdkhydxpu.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A145DEB9-C279-450E-8C03-15118FE799A5_zpsl6zzsgpj.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2E716F80-586F-423A-AF3B-46C101719D9F_zpsvnlrzgtr.jpg)


The pictures are all quite self explanatory

After waiting a few weeks for the heater matrix gasket it could all be thrown together! I borrowed a engine crane from my mates dad and just thought screw it! I bashed the chassis leg in and dropped it in, took almost a year but it's nice to see it finally in there!

Bolted the subframe on and the adapters, which look quite nice! Attatched the cross member and vibratechnics solid front mount and in it went! Samco hoses and inlet are only attatched to make me feel like I've made progress though

I kind of went a bit crazy on demon tweeks and bought a lot of stuff:

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A8637E63-C34C-4214-853D-0974C87EE922_zpsmyphe9zl.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CF868167-EDBA-4C1F-9DAE-FD71F5B9AAE3_zpsnvyqxluk.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/727E5D0E-0345-4FA0-8A32-A42F82EDDADA_zpst8zglm8j.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/6B3DC3B8-3C39-46C3-9972-AB1B78A54B6A_zpsqx9uduyd.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/61F39920-2D0D-49CD-A22C-D5EED535517B_zpsilqzjsvd.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/7C7A32CA-8452-4F57-995F-CF95E30CFE3B_zpspqbr2dpv.jpg)


Also my adapters for the rear and some red stuff front pads

I'm living like poverty but loving it!

I fitted the rad and fan set up, me and a friend made some brackets and it fits up nice!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/65DD5C4C-5A02-40D0-A7FB-6E2901906226_zpscxbwkup8.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/54D62D1B-AA29-4ACD-A476-9C8D6BC32073_zpsq8msdrei.jpg)

The rear beam, front discs and adapters went on aswell as the coilovers


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CF66E5A1-89E8-4E5C-A2FA-D47368A19D0C_zpsbcauabr2.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/9ED29E5E-CD48-483C-9035-4964F2B0B17B_zps8htykczz.jpg)

The rear beam took us 12 hours (don't ask), after using some copper slip it went in straight away

I got to work on more of my wiring, sorting out all the fuse box and dash loom, sent the engine loom off to get fixed because it was a total mess! Came back amazing!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/0A117256-0644-40D0-8C7B-1DFAD75F94E6_zpshgqu3jfe.jpg)


I fitted my fuel tank and undersealled half the car while I was at it, my fuel tank straps were way too long! Weirdly because they're VR ones, so we cut them down and ordered new ones


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/358153D7-3468-417C-8368-41DEED36027D_zpsajdshsjb.jpg)


They're filthy and the picture is terrible, look x10 better!

I also fitted my VR clocks I got and my steering rack and UJ from a MK3 as the pre-90 spec one didn't fit or neither did the stalks

Front tyres were also fitted to the other D90's

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/65E7ADDC-037E-4FF1-9E6A-67DF32DB1D2A_zpszbamjcrv.jpg)


Other little things like the front engine mount bracket was swapped because I was using a auto one
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 05:33:13 PM
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/17B478FD-0ACF-4DC4-BE9D-61AD9A6B5355_zps2ckdp6em.jpg)


This is how I feel with the build right now, after days and days working out wiring and tracing stuff, hours and hours searching forums and asking questions it turns out that my ecu/twist plug/fusebox loom is wrong, no one knows half the plugs I have, all the wire colours are different, I'm missing the coolant and fan loom which is part of the light loom, but it's all a mess, so it all got ripped out.. A few hours before it was looking so nice


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/1A482022-5A42-47E8-BA05-D03BEE5D6E82_zpsshzfqswq.jpg)


So today without hesitating I got to ripping the dash apart to tidy it up and route wires, including fixing my mk3 clocks and stalks fully into my dash


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/48608357-4D57-4531-97ED-071B77043226_zpsoujtdugr.jpg)

I literally loom taped everything, that's all the wires behind my dash! Perfect!

Did the same to my fusebox

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/9581F300-4617-4D75-A24E-6D43A741ECF9_zpswwwairrw.jpg)


Just makes life so much easier!

The vent pod went in after owning it for a year or so
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DD9A95BD-0B5C-4CFD-9401-B55F8A409224_zpsbaqlggzr.jpg)

Everything in!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/AF4B0B29-7E8A-4996-9D3D-D5FCB4B6856A_zpsdee52irp.jpg)


Also started on the heatshield material for the bulkhead, need some more bolts to hold it Nicely in place but I'm happy!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/AAA8BC9D-4954-4A1D-8A1E-4D13BD08EC24_zpshrpyq7dd.jpg)


Sump and rocker cover gaskets, sensors and thermostat are on the way, along with the new engine and light loom, some little bits and fuel lines as I ordered ones which wouldn't fit in the undercar clamps.. Counting down the days now!


So maybe things didn't go as I had hoped..

The engine loom that had turned up was a distributor loom😞 although Rubjonnys making me one up as I type this...

The carpets are in! And it looks x10000 better!, the underlay went everywhere so it's a bit messy, I had jet washed my carpets beforehand to get all the crap out of them

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CF789728-CEE1-4A33-9EE0-6E54274410EC_zpsdomrrzxv.jpg)

Too add to the interior parts I got a set of VDO's for £30

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D26FB5CB-B74D-4641-A41C-559966849826_zps6rfoypzl.jpg)

I finally plumbed everything up and added some bias valves for the rear brakes due to the removal of the comp valve, I never want to do brake lines again!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A73AF260-0733-4E68-AD3E-CA99D3CA8277_zpsgfuzg6nu.jpg)


Gotta add my brackets to them and straighten it all out though, when I replace the heat matting it'll get done

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/1C188295-9AD4-4964-903C-F9A4135CB6C7_zpsu2shst4o.jpg)


Front brakes had a makeover too and got put on


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B5B3FF00-23D4-43E8-ADB7-5D37943398AE_zpsbjpqn8mb.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/AB7085A7-AF67-416C-BDB7-723AC695AA4B_zpsc4ufshlv.jpg)


(A 5 year old could paint better than me!)

Upon connecting my handbrake cables I realised I stupidly bought two drivers side calipers, so I'm now running two brand new VW read MK4 calipers after another bargain on eBay!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8161AA03-85F2-4E68-BE13-831E3B1BC4A1_zpsq2hglwjs.jpg)


Painted it red, stuck it on aaaaannnnd the handbrake cables are too long, the perks of having a cross over 88' model, everything's pre90 spec apart from little things like handbrake cables, so I have 1800mm cables not 1600mm

We rolled my rear arch to accommodate my 8J's


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A94396E1-4D46-4DF4-9BF2-46BD341A18FB_zpsbduixgqm.jpg)

Until someone kicked a jack underneath by accident when it was being lowered down 😞

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CF5F57E9-48A9-472E-8ED8-A0607764D0C6_zpsesysfee3.jpg)

New sills all round and driver side wheel arch to be replaced then! Might as well do it all now!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 05:42:47 PM
Picked up a miltek system from a Corrado VR6

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/65FDE68A-D89D-4A37-881C-6BB2DC7BC1F4_zpsd50qnlng.jpg)

New bolts and gaskets too!

As its a late Corrado it has bars not hooks, got around this using a powerflex universal hanger, turning the mount around and hooking it up

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DE5A9C0A-7458-47DE-9900-A39D21FD560F_zpsvsyoq38p.jpg)


More goodies arrived too!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/83C0F34E-F72E-4CDC-9005-6A61CFD0847E_zpswozlq7et.jpg)


16 row mocal oil cooling kit, not a fan of the quality of the hoses but they'll do!

Stripped out the sunroof and the silicone, need to find one that isn't £2749402726494 to replace it with when I'm paid

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C321B2CF-2E3E-4C18-9AE1-D861B8BE867F_zpszryorjxf.jpg)

I also decided to sell my fan set up and opt for a Spal 12" slimline fan which should be with me on the weekend

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/9D55167A-4A1F-4076-AE1C-EF7D1F3F9C32_zpsdybbqwz7.jpg)

Gave my spark plug holes a clean, it was ridiculous!

Before

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/545E14CB-FEED-402B-8727-ADAF74D7F7F7_zpsqsi9kebg.jpg)

After

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A0A61DFF-16B8-4981-8580-EED5CCDA95EC_zpsubsr2dd8.jpg)

12" tweezers and easy start is your friend!

Had a major issue with my clutch m/c with mounting it as its horizontal, so me and my mate made this ugly thing!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3C1674F3-C3E5-4930-857E-EE80BE2B8EE8_zpswq2fmtmv.jpg)


Using some ally, we had two countersunk screws holding the m/c and bolts going through, the ally was pliable enough to mount Nicely to my really neat bulkhead..

Gave the whole car loom a nice wrap and tidied the fusebox area up

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/08D82FE6-B3CF-4EFD-B14F-1E80329E3314_zpsyeoxbkwp.jpg)

And started sanding down the car

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/64E28B18-9F71-49AC-98B4-213207E31F37_zpsqjmni4l4.jpg)

I've left it so long I can't remember much else.. Let's hope it fires up soon
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 05:52:14 PM
OMP braces, somehow managed to find some Goodrich VR6 brake hoses with MK4 rears without buying two sets, power flex top mounts and some other little random parts

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/27A3DBEC-F748-4729-9BF0-B1F071E07AB1_zpsm7j1v2cb.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D0F99AB0-8901-47E6-B816-1FF2D6B353B2_zpsxv45ob7w.jpg)


The rear too mounts wouldn't Pop through or compress enough on one side to allow the strut brace to go on, so I'm gunna have to wait till I drive it for a bit till it settles


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/423A2C10-1765-4E55-92E6-AC9A2645AC5B_zpsjynoes8m.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/74ABCB38-3836-47B5-A982-E0B9C892D258_zps71ormrcq.jpg)


The rear hose bracket from the chassis to rear beam I had to drill out with a step drill cuss they wouldn't fit, although the all the other hoses went on fine!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/7AFAF52A-4418-426D-9862-0AF9E6588DF3_zpsq27lk78g.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/76EC4392-FA9F-4289-8D63-A042524DDC6C_zpsevqxlrkq.jpg)

Need to tidy the heat shields on the rears..

I also need to get the passenger side brake hose mount tack welded back on after I snapped it off when picking up the beam, as well as the expansion tank bracket which I removed, one to fit the nicer looking 90 spec one and two so I can lower it down so it doesn't interfere with the front brace

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2F1BF3ED-A9BD-4688-B9F6-202695B6C019_zpsl5mgxl1y.jpg)

I picked up some 268 cams for £120 which had hardly been used too

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/388DB772-868B-4D2F-99C5-BB60CC3D1244_zpsfc2fcfaq.jpg)

And some schroth harnesses from Germany

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DF397ECA-E88D-4CE5-A015-3622675C6AFA_zps3fz59k7q.jpg)

Which in all honesty I love, really really like them

Bought a new radiator, water pump, expansion tank and cap, battery, hundreds of wiring grommets and blanking grommets, the correct handbrake cables for the 27383973 time and some little parts

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B5754F80-DA5C-4F15-9203-CB649D6C6A87_zpswft0dgt2.jpg)

Out with the old

Waiting for some steel to make a bracket for the other side


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/FF9B4212-39BB-4568-A38C-12C88586815F_zpstt1hmlan.jpg)


Spal 12" fan mounted too


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F1CCA663-75C8-48B1-8035-010DD64C89AB_zpsqry6exm1.jpg)


Had to cut a huge chunk out of the radiator support panel to make it fit upright but it's all good!

After playing with my gearstick a bit I realised how bad it was, when in 6th I could reach 1st, so I bought a 02M R32 shifter, just need to buy the tower to make it fit

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B2EF7A86-F397-46B5-9427-B644225EBCB1_zpsuteaxwjo.jpg)


Gunna mount it inside and run the cables through the bulkhead

Johns loom turned up and I'm really happy with it!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/29E0C201-4473-4F2D-BC35-DC8E7776678A_zpscez6q0yc.jpg)


He added some wires for my VDO's so I can have the running now, I bought a new south performance gauge panel for my centre console


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/13D6CAAD-8B84-4A5B-8AFF-80A928C1A92C_zpskwdjm1cu.jpg)


My gauges didn't come with backing plates so I had to order some from Germany


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E4FE35CD-EA5F-4449-8C26-12A703C46B66_zpsab60m3jm.jpg)

After a clean up using bleach and rice

And finally a working sunroof!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E57DD88A-00D9-4617-9A7D-74A2E185D0D2_zpsn027w1do.jpg)
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 05:59:31 PM
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/87109D59-87F6-48D3-AA9D-1A9BA42723E0_zpsahn6dj2q.jpg)


Bought a 16v NOS heckblende which came in the more hard to find two piece design


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/BFECF498-511A-4C5F-ABCF-5F0F132E2FE3_zps3vqlxwth.jpg)


Sent it straight back for a refund!

After I eventually pulled all engine bay wiring out and made some more holes using the step drill so now my ECU sits in my scuttle and all wiring runs through leaving the only wiring left on show being the twist plug and the light loom

Very poor photo of it as it's now all taped and hidden

Oil cooler is mounted though!


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B885344F-2E78-4217-BCBF-BCC792A6CF07_zpse2fmslel.jpg)


As in the photo I've added some 4 gauge earths, mainly as it improves minor things like lights being a tad brighter, little misfires and so on (apparently) and as I don't have a clue where the standard earths go apart from the earth panel on the head and the battery to chassis to gearbox I thought better be safe than sorry

I made the original earth bracket my central point so They now go from:

Throttle body to central point
Battery to chassis
Battery to Central point
Gearbox to Central point
Central point to chassis

I got rid of the heatproof matting as I think it looks cheap, I mounted my bias valves in a better position too

I got HEL to make me a custom braided clutch hose but they got it wrong, I needed m12 one end and m10 the other but needed with two m12 ends, so after a refund and a order from Germany I got a m12-m10 adapter

So I got bored one rainy day so I plugged my battery in to see what would happen, I knew I couldn't start the engine as I needed a water pump pulley, but all lights, dash lights, electric mirrors and windows all worked! I was so so so happy! Mainly because I worried that the mirrors and windows were shot or my terrible attempt of converting a whole car loom from CE1- CE2 would of been a huge failure.. So j ordered every single bulb I had in LED ahaha, I ordered some osram night breakers, new number plate lights, red dash lights like I had on my MK3..

So on Wednesday my water pump pulley turned up, after swapping out the water pump I found all of this:


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/AEDD0869-93D1-4280-9454-31044967987D_zps2fuog4rt.jpg)


Thinking of the worst that my head gaskets gone I removed the thermostat and flushed her through, it was all clear, I put it all back together and tried to start it, nothing..

No fuel reaching the injectors 😞

I realised I didn't have 109 relay for the ECU due to the fusebox being a 16v one..

I came back to it yesterday before I go on holiday tomorrow and asked John what I need to jump for the relay, after jumping 4-6 pins and turned the key, still nothing..

I left it in half turn on the keys and headed bubbles in the fuel tank and a buzz, I started to turn the key and then it fired into life!

It revved up like the throttle was on full open so I turned it off, found some leaks on the inlet due to some breathers not being attached, covered them and started it again, it idled perfectly! Until.. It went really tappy and I heard hissing, I stopped it and inspected the engine to find the mocal cooler was pissing out oil, it had dumped about 3L of oil in the time of 15 seconds, no warping or signs of pressure damage? I can only assume it was faulty from factory, so I've contacted the seller for a return.. The most important thing is it starts! I'm so happy! I had concerns over my wiring abilitys, the engine having no compression, rings or HG gone, parts I've purchased being broken or just loss of issues.. After almost two years it has a running engine in it that actually runs properly (apart from the cooler)
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 06:06:02 PM
Replacement cooler is here! It was sent on Tuesday, phone call Wednesday arranging a replacement or refund, Thursday it was here!

I'm now going to try and find a decent place to mount it as I'm not a fan of where I previously did, I'm thinking of some threaded bar coming down from the slam panel to mount it, using nuts and some rubber washers to hold it in place.


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B0FC2727-4A4A-418E-BF57-814A18AE7301_zpsyjvr5kom.jpg)

Been having problems with electrics, all my dash lives used to work but no headunit, now no dash lights and no headunit, can't get my VDO's to illuminate (probably find out they do once my headunit issue is fixed), but my fuse box is a complete mess currently 😞

Also the bottom of the newsouth panel keeps bending inwards, gunna have to either take a file to it or put something behind it to stop that issue

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A53AF7D0-F524-4A7F-AC2A-2744B7897097_zpsfqwbjddo.jpg)

Tidied up my car cause I had nuts and bolts and wires and god knows what else everywhere, had to do my handbrake cables (again wrong ones were sent, so got into a big argument with carpartsaver on eBay which is practically euro car parts, absolutely shocking customer service) so I jacked my rear beam and attempted one last time to get my rear strut brace on, to my relief it bit on a thread and I could actually do it up!

Mounted the rear parcel shelf holders and removed the seat belts from the car

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/751BC0C6-1260-4E14-8A12-726A727EA349_zps8yucmqan.jpg)

Really need to get that seat sorted..

Cheeky underside shot of red and shiny parts

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2747B7BD-0D39-4CFD-BDF0-DC1DAB8DD1AF_zpsfzhypy7i.jpg)

Put the engine covers on and got a few more photos to make me think it's closer than it is

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F3ABAA5D-F9FC-4A9D-BA8B-34B346FE890F_zpszdazvpyc.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/EA0E61EB-09B0-433B-A8A1-6ED6D8BFF490_zpstmvwxbb8.jpg)


As it was payday I ordered loads of finishing things for the engine.. Will update when they're on!

Plugged in my vagcom and found I had a issue with my cam position sensor and my MAF, I couldn't find any cam sensors on the net so before I forked out £60 for one sent from the U.S. I checked the wiring to the plug, it turns out that the earth had broken off of the plug, luckily I had one 2.8mm power timer pin left so I wired it in and attached it on, fired it up and hurray! No more misfiring, it still runs like cramp due to the faulty MAF but it's a damn good improvement

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8372DAD2-FE9D-4F94-AD8A-3B17DCD51151_zpsb6jj86sr.jpg)


I also finished off painting the 02J tower, drained the gearbox fluid, fitted the tower, discovered a pretty big oil leak from the rocker cover/timing chain cover area which I'll have to investigate..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E7ED8840-E4A2-44E4-B51D-A0FCE4EF9FEF_zpssk8lplns.jpg)
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 06:23:52 PM
I went possibly a little bit mad


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/919283C6-1966-4E2A-B8D7-5F4DE047D1E3_zps2vnnofsj.jpg)

My diesel geek shifter arrived and went on a treat, I was missing some circlips till today and gave up with mounting it on the inside so never got to fully appreciate how nice it is, such a positive change in how it feels and looks! (I did drill holes in my bulkhead for the cables to be mounted inside but now I'm using the normal mounting method ill grommet them up until I buy my top mounted adrenalin tuning shifter)

I haven't adjusted it yet so currently it's at its longest throw, which is still pretty bloody short!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/6AAFC50E-0923-413F-B5D2-F8D6D5E45EE8_zpsznosytqy.jpg)

There is minimal travel from neutral into 1-3-5, side to side throw is reduced too!

It feels very notchy which I like a lot!
Will adjust once I've driven her though

Brake reservoir for the focus remote was Plummed in and attached, finding somewhere to mount it was becoming problematic as I'm running out of space!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/4B9AAEE3-1F5D-4ACE-BB49-997C9E59E87C_zpsci42egzx.jpg)

Need some flexi-hardline prong like clips and I can bleed the brakes

I pulled my finger out and mounted my oil catch tank to my bulkhead and sorted my bias valves which looked tacky previously

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3BE4FBDF-C033-42D5-8ED6-AB871D87EBE8_zpsd1hgfnmr.jpg)


With some threaded bar, m6 bolts and rubber washers I mounted my oil cooler, using bolts and washers each side of the mounting brackets, rubber washers to dampen the vibration, flipped my fan to the other side of the rad also to make clearance

 (http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/4C3D5268-CBF1-46E4-BA2F-70681BD1674F_zpsyz3qseyp.jpg)


While all the front end was off I mounted my T piece and VDO senders so I can run my gauges and the OEM oil pressure warning/temp gauges

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C9F714D4-1C81-453A-AF06-42505BC8431D_zpsiq55swmo.jpg)


I got some wings from euro car parts, they're good quality but like with most aftermarket parts they'll need adjusting

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/40FBB7AD-F981-4DE1-BEA0-902C325428FD_zpsz40e4e8x.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/762DF8EF-6228-46EB-A4E1-0F14FC19493B_zps29cnrbhn.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CCEE8FD6-B204-4623-81CF-11952B61A245_zpsm3gp9ess.jpg)


Going to elongate the mounting holes on the door side to get it sat inwards more to get rid of that lip!

Sat my G60 arches on and wasn't really impressed, 8J of wheel, Wide track and 25mm spacers and it doesn't even fill..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CDAA8BA0-EAB2-4A21-B37A-62A5CA8BE584_zpsvivnolbv.jpg)

Going to just probably buy some brand new normal GTI arches instead!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/531B917F-0DF7-4808-B130-45365C9C7985.png_zpsjtnmpamt.jpeg)

Swapped out my fogs for some NOS brake cooling vents, although they're meant to attatch to the arch liner (which I don't have) I'm going to fab up some long L shaped brackets from the inner wing/chassis legs to mount the duct

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/06F8C67E-621F-4871-A958-875B460DCE03_zpsew1uiopf.jpg)

Got some red bulbs for my dash (am getting around to doing heater/headlight/window/fog switches) and my VDO's, I also pieced together my dash after swapping out my radio harness again, turns out my headunit is broken not my dash harness although the replacement one I got was x10000 better condition

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E1B50B8B-AA72-47C4-BB17-3799DB2383C4_zpsaad6wx97.jpg)

And I have most of my floor back again!

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/1D185FD0-C866-4C58-AC8E-4B87B960B8F8_zpstudw48td.jpg)

I was having major oil leak issues from my rocker cover which I sorted with some instant high temp gasket to help seal the rocker cover gasket, I also cut any manufacture defects off to help it seat better

I picked up another MAF with the dash loom, plugged it in, and hurray! No more horrendous idle hunting or missifiring
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 06:47:14 PM


Replaced my horrendous steering wheel with a 350mm WRC OMP in leather with red stitching along with a momo rep gearknob, wanted to be different instead of having a 3 spoke momo or OMP with suede and yellow stitching.

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3563F47A-EF77-4ABD-A9E4-43DE3AA03DF2_zps7cwaq2go.jpg)
I also got a snap off boss for it


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/5D80DB6A-D18D-4A42-8FFD-1A78DA615C08_zpsavz0cor5.jpg)


I ripped out my steering column again because of a wobble, I replaced the bottom bearing but it turns out it's the top one that's shot, unfortunately the bearings are enclosed in the ignition housing so unless I replace it, I won't be able to cure the issue.

While I ripped out the steering column I went to town with the wiring again, heatshirinking and cutting off parts not needed, recrimping things with better crimps and heatshirinking them, all the dash harness is ran through the clips and everything's relocated, a push button has been installed for the horn which will fit in the dash blanks

Before..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DE9A9F99-7FB1-4FA6-9BF2-C4F9F508B6B0_zpsffdd39bc.jpg)

Half way through (which is where it still is)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/1E7B73EF-0516-4516-B625-3A95762E5F34_zps52pgeybz.jpg)

Included in the photo is my VDO air to fuel ratio gauge which will be fully operational once I wore in a wideband 02 sensor

I managed to also get my oil pressure gauge to work, 5 bar might be a little too low though as on cold start its on 4 bar and when revved at 70 degrees it climbs up to 5 bar at 3k rpm


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/99F10CA9-E5BA-4DBE-8146-E0C86BFA87C6_zpsamlcv6xd.jpg)

All dash lights are now red after a few hours of soldering, when the dash was in pieces I removed the green film from the clocks to make it brighter

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B2936C67-4729-4E7D-BED2-37C0A1250F85_zpsogq6augs.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C749A6DB-559D-4D9F-A1BD-68566ABD3471_zpseus02qcj.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/93F419E6-4313-45D6-A7CA-3AB4213188A0_zpsuj2vqjvt.jpg)


Along with this me and my mate fitted and wired in the banana lights to my fog light switch

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8E5A72D2-372E-4B9D-9458-A3467E11CCF1_zpsrjkprd4a.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/11350AA4-D88D-4C0F-8B93-C8FEA40AE980_zpsp1xutvbm.jpg)

To top all of it off I replaced my pathetic 70 amp alternator for a brand new Bosch 150 amp alternator and some 0 gauge wire, although I'm still reading 12v with spal fans, lights and heater running so I need to find out what the issue is, potentially a bad earth or it needs a good run to start charging properly

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/642137F3-0914-455C-9986-346BCC6F10FA_zpsilu1uuod.jpg)


I swapped out the horrendous clutch master cylinder idea for a remote design using a OBP 0.75 master cylinder, some braided hose and a reservoir, clutch feeling feels amazing and it doesn't from the bulkhead anywhere as much as it did previously
http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/76506BC4-4527-49FE-B43D-E05E98161530_zpsvuzjoj5z.jpg
It also looks x1000 better, I don't know why I half done things before..

Grille spots were cleaned up, Hella stickers installed aswell

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3DBF0B8F-6424-4B55-9844-736CDA359E19_zpsdypubfye.jpg)

Had a issue with my bias valves seeping air when the brake pedal was depressed, turns out the unions I had were too short so I swapped them out for longer ones which stopped it


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/15EC5BAA-771C-4793-AAD7-CD71AF71D38B_zps2kawdy0g.jpg)Pedal is still spongy though after many bleeds, going to attempt to reverse bleed it to see if that makes a difference.

I got a sequential shift light for Christmas which I wired in, I haven't fully set it up yet but I got the light to start at 2k
(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F793CEFE-B936-47EE-B097-EF409565D5EC.png_zpsw6nh21lh.jpeg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C8D5CA61-00FA-4F1C-8348-F19E129B8B03.png_zpsdv2e5fmc.jpeg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/ABB101D6-1214-465E-A2F3-D5D1A2D50537.png_zpsevqyr2s6.jpeg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8FEF316F-8DD6-41B2-B3BF-0B679F78F50D.png_zpsawzkpv45.jpeg)


I like it a lot!

I've mostly been hoarding parts up and saving money for its paint and last parts of welding especially in this weather and the darkness
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 07:03:03 PM
I made a huge order through VW heritage which included a brand new windscreen, new door rubbers, rear 3/4, windscreen and rear window seals, drivers door window seal, two new sills, jacking stub points, rear drivers side arch, sill trims, still trim retaining strips and clips, door pins, hinges, check straps.. Practically most things to finish the car off

It's now having both sills, rear drivers arch and rear passenger light cluster moulding, expansion tank bracket and Fusebox bracket welded aswell as the bottom under sealed, parts patched up, and then sanded down and painted, it's coming along and should be complete very soon..


So it's been in the hands of a mates dad for a few weeks, Ive had both sills replaced and the rear drivers side arch replaced, all wheel arches are now rolled also, sills have been cavity waxed and the underside has been blasted with 3M waxoyl

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/5144DC67-95F5-465C-8BD6-02769CE9D770_zps7bya6lw4.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/94F6477C-6DD2-42AE-874E-4B0FC8FF0B5B_zpszwo2lc7v.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/71478D39-A9E4-4384-8B3F-18BE51C12A40_zpspvcamnak.jpg)

The expansion tank is fitted and no longer held up by cable ties



I taken the doors off and all glass out also and started stripping them down for paint

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8A91B2AB-1016-4950-8A55-EE5ED8A9CDB7_zpsfnc5bfow.jpg)

As my bonnet is bent I picked one up from Tim jay who is just up the motorway

As I started to take the windscreen off i realised it was a little bit rusty, along with the boot.

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DFE217E1-CCDF-4B73-AF67-D0EED0C8EAC2_zpse7cudzpe.jpg)

We have suspicions that it was crashed into and repaired as I have no rear quarter grooves, the seam going past the boot is rusty and was covered in seam sealer, behind my light panel was also very badly welded, it's added a few weeks into my completion but it's worth having it all properly done. We stripped out the tailgate loom because although I repaired it, it was a complete mess.

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D925513B-A413-4F9D-9E95-63E8BA30714D_zps4znjzxyn.jpg)

It's being sanded down and fillered and should be primered this weekend

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/BDA55872-613D-43BA-BF0A-D9C483EC9020_zps62rm3ufv.jpg)

There's not much to say really as most of the work is being done by someone else.
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 07:08:09 PM
Ordered more NOS parts from Greece, below isn't a fraction of what I've ordered recently, most things now going back on are brand new VW parts for example the doorcard clips, screws, sun visor clips.. You get the idea

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/40FAF15C-4F79-46B7-AD5C-DB054A581347_zpszewxnyws.jpg)

While it was being welded I took advantage of having a air gun and a huge collection of tools so I tightened everything up

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/6408B997-FE57-4B14-BA2A-D33E838B776E_zpsqww9u49j.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/82CC008E-CE69-43BB-B6FE-AB284F99A0F0_zpscbfctwgr.jpg)

As I've had nothing to do I've decided to smash on with the headliner

I joined the top and fibreglassed it, sealing cracks with a hot glue gun


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/EB5F03A7-8028-4531-A5C0-D3E8C809E5DA_zpszkhxhzd7.jpg)


It had all tried up foam and glue on it and wouldn't come off, after hours of sanding it I used my brain and used some 'goo be gone' which is a non solvent based adhesive remover which doesn't eat away at the styrofoam, I also used a masonry drill with a cupped wire brush on.. Made short work of it

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/75993DAF-F809-41E7-BD20-4186E690D417_zpsmdezjjk9.jpg)

I need to go over with more adhesive remover and a thick brush but it's much better, hopefully this will improve the adhesive contact.

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8C15E252-C08F-4629-B913-A119E9D2B49F_zpskb2fstgk.jpg)

To add to the finale finally got some pressed plates and another number plate holder

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DE8F1A08-77EF-4A79-AC8B-9F2CDA4027AE_zpspgzak7u3.jpg)

Im still trying to find a passenger 3 door window seal which is new, one sold a new months back on eBay.de for €50.. They're NLA, nowhere has any NOS so guess I've gotta wait it out!

Shouldn't be too long till we see colour
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 07:23:07 PM
So the last few weeks have seen some big changes, some drawbacks and some progress but it defiantly feels more like a car now

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/9A05FBBF-9EC6-4C9F-9FDC-3087954C3217_zpsdj69gue0.jpg)

Mid prime

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/4C76040F-4C08-4260-997D-A8FEFAA1C45F_zpsmmsbln4n.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/13B9D662-7693-46AC-948B-3B3E03847C04_zpsfctllhz2.jpg)

But she came out looking amazing afterwards..


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/9E99B5AF-6981-46BF-8E0E-3D6C036A8AFE_zpslyv6ztn5.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/60533CDA-418D-48A9-B3FD-06C7D2B9C147_zps9htcd8dj.jpg)

I sourced some really good condition genuine front and back big bumpers along with a hella heckblende, passenger window seal, the stupid expensive plastic boot trim, goldie sunroof mech and stainless sunroof arms


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/275A4596-7F2E-434A-B2A9-68C3055D4725_zpsvq82zudp.jpg)


New indicators and my vents fitted, it's crazy how well it all fits now it's genuine and good condition

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/213CD5D3-7A8F-445B-B961-BAF0A2F1C11C_zpsxbdfwhdp.jpg)

Everything lines up as it should

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CA7F6063-7793-4FA1-93BB-F74ED36020A7_zpsbxcwvrs9.jpg)

Old pins pressed out

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/F586FAD9-23CC-435D-A7A2-8D797A25C901_zpsdw1inila.jpg)

The doors were fitted with their new hardware

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DC0F5802-F9F9-4738-A837-A4B3D636BEE2_zps8cz9aoxu.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/85B6E0BE-CC11-42DC-B3FB-8A01328E1905_zpspptsfy1y.jpg)

Wiring sorted for the boot lid along with a new bellow

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/05CF7363-103D-4459-8DD2-6F916EC68DA4_zpsygftyepx.jpg)

Painted slam panel and genuine bonnet catch

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/4C737681-8A97-4325-8579-45C0199F3148_zpswq8udosw.jpg)

Glass all fitted, doors mounted and looks beautiful

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/49DBF3F1-F208-4C80-94F0-648A6E9BB164_zps0rrvcufg.jpg)

Although all of this doesn't come without its draw backs

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/73C3CFAD-72DB-4096-86FE-DE48E00D1AC6_zpsi5lxz2jh.jpg)


Another mocal blown, it's been sent off and the cause is over pressurisation which isn't covered by mocal, so I've opted for a heavy duty one, longer lines but a smaller matrix, this will be mounted infront of the radiator but behind the grille

A oil flush is going to take place, new genuine filter, R32 sump and oil pump to replace my oil pressure release valve which must be failing

When fitting the windscreen we had a woopsy

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C53365B9-8463-46E7-B9AC-621137F4CDBC_zps9cle0ttm.jpg)

So had to spend another £75 but had it fitted for the price

Clutch master also blown up, the circlip popped off so replaced it for a brand new one again, re-bled the system again

I got some conduit and covered most of the wiring harness on show in the engine

Purchased some new badges with some custom parts..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/593545C2-EC01-414F-B056-382440F9A0E4_zpscwjt9kle.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8214157A-F116-47CB-B075-B42C1F0E3747_zpsug7cx99c.jpg)

My custom intake turned up so bolted that on, idles and sounds a lot better aswell as asthmatically looks really good

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/62AA25D1-08F6-4647-898E-461AA59EDDCA_zpscsoprezt.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/90468A8E-5A4D-4EB0-B85B-71506A713E73_zpszdejwsl3.jpg)


Wings were taken off and back on about 10 times to get them to line up as well as I could, the amount of unnecessary metal there was inside was stupid, both sides under sealed and bolted back on

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3CFFBB8F-A026-4E2C-B9C6-FBD3E37B8500_zpsiouaatan.jpg)

Somehow I managed to set fire to my heated rear glass switch earth cable

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DC865833-1683-477F-811F-4C73B177F37F_zps4orjbp2p.jpg)

Don't ask me how that happened.. I lost my rear fog light and my heated rear glass kept blowing fuses, so Fusebox back in pieces again, while it was out I replaced my steering column for a tilt one, ignition housing, switch and key/barrel was replaced with brand new items along with a momo boss, lower genuine bearing and Spring. Absolutely no wobble at all so I'm happy! While doing this I purchased a CE1 Fusebox housing and used a angle grinder to elongate the holes, the reason I did this is the old Fusebox housing was a Mk3 one and the bolt holes were wrong, a CE2 one would foul the accelerator pedal, a CE1 has a step in on the bracket which clears the pedal, unfortunately I've lost the photos, the bracket now sits solid and flush so no more tigerseal

Bonnet raisers were removed and sold due to them impacting on the bonnet being able to close properly, can to the good old bonnet prop for me, new hardware like a prop catch, the foam bonnet supports on the wings and the little rubber adjusters were fitted also

Now is where I got silly..

I've always loved the compmotive TH range, more specifically the old style Sierra ones or the TH170's, so I managed to pinch these for £300, they need a referb but for what they are im more than happy

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2B323ED8-4A93-42FA-B1F4-320A22FAD64D_zps8gp6vxl1.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/ECE375D5-694D-49CE-8EAB-C1945F3CDAF7_zpszym2uwp8.jpg)

16x7, 4x108 so having to get rid of my Porsche D90's and adapters but it's a win win in my eyes, I've seen to many corsa C's with them on around my area for my liking

I also got even more silly..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/09CB644B-60BC-44C0-9AA8-353BA873A362_zpsvuhqhxtn.jpg)

I think the pictures explain it enough

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/167A8298-98EB-4381-ABA2-DB195B3E5FEC_zpslqsxsnvt.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/62D7B755-7D80-47CD-813D-CA4E09D2D8AA_zpsclct83ow.jpg)

It's currently sat in there and will be welded in with brackets when my floorpan is replaced later down the line, it's a very very tight fit, may have to get a inch or so taken off the feet and new brackets welded onto it

I also got my hands on a NOS drivers door handle and lock, still awaiting the handle to turn up but the lock arrived

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2F36308E-F144-4B6B-A6F2-6ECB3F4FABD4_zpsaluxy4gt.jpg)

Hopefully this should all come to a end soon.. I don't know how it's taken me so long

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D5C5499E-F1D5-4C75-8867-EFA54F0137BE_zpselvifbpz.jpg)

Silly thing
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 07:32:52 PM
Did the good old standard 'get the car on the road but forget about my build thread'

I did more silly things, I sold the compomotives because it was too much hassle to buy go back to 4x100 (although I did actually get as far as converting back to 4x100, get adapters on the way and almost had the wheels referbished but after almost spending £500 on adapters and referbing I saw these beauty's..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/69BDCFB4-ED10-4C1F-BDC1-67E0755B6E6D_zpsc4yohthe.jpg)


Compomotive TH2's 16X7J in 5x120 fitment but did come with 5X100-5x120 adapters

And this is how they sat.. Perfect for me, I loved the offset and how visible all the brakes and coilovers were.

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B8D9872E-9B76-48A5-9AC5-3AC591F30171_zpssj6scums.jpg)

The doorcards and leather interior ended up going due to it being too rigid after fibreglassing it, the bottoms popped off, it was all deformed.. Due to the cage it wouldn't fit read doorcards in so I took it in a drastic direction.

I've always been a Huge fan of hillclimb and berg cup cars, more function over form.. So I got some carbon fibre doorcards, I used rivnuts along with 6mm allenkey bolts and anodised washers to mount them, I used pond lining and tigerseal for the door membranes behind it

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/846345DF-8F31-486F-A0F2-7D53E243CA52_zpszggwfm8k.jpg)

I also got from a friend a touring car snap off boss which is RRP of £200+ and at the same time I rebuilt my steering column and fitted a adjustable one. Including new ignition housing, bearings and springs to eliminate all wobble.

The G60 arches and sill trims went on easily enough also.

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DEA7F96D-12C4-4EDA-9011-0350D1B900F8_zpsgkkqpnd7.jpg)

I had my rear engine mount machined down by a friend as it was fouling the bonnet closing properly, along with this I adjusted my wings so it fit far more flush

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/10116C23-87EB-453A-9186-9AEA1A4F3057_zpsa57ft1de.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/B3F72C6F-CDEE-4625-A57B-B4E960AA7CB1_zpss6ezr0vw.jpg)

Relocated my clutch reservoir and made a bracket for them

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A130FAEA-6421-4D74-BC28-3FEDE91E0ECF_zpsijp6ub80.jpg)

I then went to get it MOT'd, passed with flying colours! The only advisory was the fact that I used a cable tie to do the CV joint and it had come slightly loose, this was replaced when j went home with a boot clip.

I drove the it around for a few weeks and loved it, I fitted a alloy radiator and my heavy duty oil cooler on the front, I also replaced my oil pump and fitted a 10 bar oil pressure sender and gauge, now run at 2 bar on idle and 4-6bar when driving spending on how hard I'm driving

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/6E41ABB4-C827-43CC-9B40-91D367A730A1_zpsccjpyka4.jpg)

Gave it a good clean with one of my mates but got called off from doing it properly due the rain..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/243F109D-0121-4FD7-AAE4-AFEE9292E678_zpsh2cvpldl.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/9ECECFC7-FC7E-4458-B8E4-A11999DFEE2A_zpsq6t79yku.jpg)

Unfortunately though last week someone decided to hit it when it was parked outside my house.. Luckily there was no panel damage but my front bumper was ripped off, my wheels ground along the curb and both offside wheels were towing in, it turns out she bent the rear beam as she hit it.. She left her number and it's going through her insurance, luckily I insured myself through Adrian flux and I have a agreed value on it, I'm in the process of dealing with it now trying to recover the money for the parts...

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/21BBD870-0D21-4067-9C1E-B293D369D227_zpslbvnhlrj.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/1DC00422-C274-430D-9CDA-EB958B929236_zps3zy2g6ka.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C53C2B31-737A-4CEF-AFE4-A088DE4FB579_zps1ecu29pw.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/315EE3B1-9F5F-43EA-96A3-9A98DA13267A_zpsm6q6hrll.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A74EA548-E2CD-48BC-9436-A7C0B61005AA_zpsqppi8qlx.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/2F7367D1-9C4C-48AE-901E-2787075C23C3_zpsbzyook98.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/32A01D18-EA28-4282-9CD5-E3635E9A091B_zpsfzzeh5ad.jpg)

As its now off the road again in pieces be decided to go for stage 2 of the build..

All will been revealed shortly..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 16, 2020, 09:52:14 PM
Heres where I got silly, hindsight tells me I should of repaired it, sold it and bought a shell to do the following as i literally undone all of my work.. but hey ho

As soon as I got down to the unit and moved in I started stripping it all down to the point where the dash was out again to declutter and remove the wiring looms, the seats and harnesses were removed and replaced with these beautiful items..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3FAE945F-5D88-4AF1-BD2D-73A08E47CDC2_zpszafeowmo.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/3FAE945F-5D88-4AF1-BD2D-73A08E47CDC2_zpszafeowmo.jpg.html)

Currently everything you see is only mocked up so it fits, using OMP sub frames, sparco side rails and sparco EVO 3 seats finished off with 3" TRS 4 point harnesses

The biggest challenge for me is going to be wiring both of these into the  car..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D487AE5A-C2EB-4B29-82B4-45C3A22F3AEA_zpsomth6wgf.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/D487AE5A-C2EB-4B29-82B4-45C3A22F3AEA_zpsomth6wgf.jpg.html)

Emerald K6 plus standalone ECU and a race technologies dash pro 2 with ECU interface

Already I have it base mapped for 630cc injectors and MSD coilpacks, the benifits are I don't have to run a MAF, I can have switchable maps, launch control, boost by gear, anything I want really..

Everything will be run off of the dashboard, all OEM switches are being replaced with flip switches or a interface board so I have more control over the vehicle for example being able to manually engage the cooling fans aswell as having them automatic

Engine wise I've gone the whole 9 yards-

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D12DE38A-9D49-48B6-9709-97583686307C_zpsg4g8302f.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/D12DE38A-9D49-48B6-9709-97583686307C_zpsg4g8302f.jpg.html)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/CD2F9D31-BE8F-4ECE-9DF6-95760C60673F_zpsuhfa6pfr.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/CD2F9D31-BE8F-4ECE-9DF6-95760C60673F_zpsuhfa6pfr.jpg.html)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8665AF6D-D7C1-4A41-A98B-FE03F1490ABE_zpszrjely64.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/8665AF6D-D7C1-4A41-A98B-FE03F1490ABE_zpszrjely64.jpg.html)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D664F1C3-2929-4650-ABCD-0B00C350FFB0_zpsyjssd9z1.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/D664F1C3-2929-4650-ABCD-0B00C350FFB0_zpsyjssd9z1.jpg.html)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/20AEA7D6-288A-4C32-98A2-35305D4A42CF_zps6w4bxtt8.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/20AEA7D6-288A-4C32-98A2-35305D4A42CF_zps6w4bxtt8.jpg.html)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/698644A0-E4C4-41E6-B7EE-965B327A36A5_zpsp6mwzmbz.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/698644A0-E4C4-41E6-B7EE-965B327A36A5_zpsp6mwzmbz.jpg.html)

Garrett GT3582R turbo with a T3 flange
3" ATP downpipe
JE 8:5:1 82mm forged pistons
Panchi rifled forged rods
Arp bolts and main stud kit
Schimmel bearing set
Schimmel freeze plug, oil galley and intershaft bearing kit
Super tech 2mm oversized intake and exhaust valves
Techtonic tuning 268 cams
Super tech dual valve springs
Super tech titanium retainers
Super tech stem seals and valve seats
R32 alloy baffled sump and oil pump
Siemens 630cc injectors



Waiting to save up funds for either a custom velocity stacked short runner intake or a schimmel performance one, tial 44mm wastegate and maybe a tubular exhaust manifold.


So in the space of about two days we pulled the engine out and removed the scuttle/raintray, the reason for this is to fit the turbo but also as my rollcage will be braced to the front turrets and triangulated, it will be impossible to have a strong enough structure working around it..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/12585155-4650-41BC-8CD9-E5F274C53AB8_zpsywryqgdt.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/12585155-4650-41BC-8CD9-E5F274C53AB8_zpsywryqgdt.jpg.html)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/3B383E13-22C9-42AB-A3AB-040047766999_zpsqsrxjagk.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/3B383E13-22C9-42AB-A3AB-040047766999_zpsqsrxjagk.jpg.html)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/905FA7EC-A05F-4516-8463-623874F4A8E2_zpspbkuycvs.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/905FA7EC-A05F-4516-8463-623874F4A8E2_zpspbkuycvs.jpg.html)


Exhaust and 02M shifter was removed in favour for this beautiful item.. I wish I had the money for a CAE but this will have to do.. adrenlain tuning short shifter

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/14E79ACF-4DD1-4157-A56D-141835A70B16_zpst7yxs2ns.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/14E79ACF-4DD1-4157-A56D-141835A70B16_zpst7yxs2ns.jpg.html)


But what's stopping me with all of this power?

310mm hispec floating rotors with 4 pot calipers

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/53C7F05B-366E-43B3-980A-18954C134024_zps1kzlutjl.jpg) (http://s1340.photobucket.com/user/Liam_Roberts_1810/media/53C7F05B-366E-43B3-980A-18954C134024_zps1kzlutjl.jpg.html)

Although I was sold them as fitting a VR6 this isn't the case as the calipers are incorrect for the mounting brackets, I need radial calipers as opposed to lug mounted, I have a quote from hispec for the parts to fix this and I'm currently in talks with the seller to sort this out


Until I save up enough for my rollcage not much progress will happen, but I'm currently hoarding parts so minor things may happen

So I've cracked on with mocking some things up and put ideas down before I change my mind

I did buy a Corrado dash and started to attempt to fit it but it was too fiddly for me and because I'm so anal about detail and things properly fitting I gave up which has given me a dilemma. The Corrado dash was big enough for all of my switches, my starter switch system, electric kill switch and gauges.. now with using the MK2 one I'm going to have to find a way wether it be a switch board/pad kind of idea or utilise the space I've got, I'm not a big fan of just cluttering the dash and any flat spot covered in plates and soothing thrown there..

For the moment though I've cracked on with getting my dash cluster in which meant butchers a old set of dials my friend had, I stripped them down to the plastic Facia and used a dremel to cut a carbon backing from my old door cards and I also had to trim the bottom down so it would fit, I'll be adding some black silicone beading around the outside of the carbon to join it but also to clean up the edges

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/7D148DA8-EBF8-4220-87B1-86D719865400_zps8cru4zws.jpg)
Still saving for my cage so progress is slow...
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: Metallix on July 17, 2020, 10:09:42 AM
Did enjoy reading through this one, thanks for sharing the thread & pics.
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 20, 2020, 05:50:17 PM
I got exceptionally bored so I decided to start shaving all the seam sealer and paint off of the engine bay.

I began by removing things I didn't need such as the washer bottle bracket, expansion tank bracket..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/EF0D4A25-C77D-41EB-9404-8601A7EF2112_zpsxiz0xivx.jpg)

I then started with a angle grinder and a flapper disc, then using a drill with a wire brush afterwards but it meant progress was slow, so I invested in a twist knot brush too power through it all

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/37155523-E5DB-444D-ACF9-0513B245F24A_zpslyhblqkm.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/D562347A-5E1E-404F-882D-B3AF38026BC4_zpswph1h6qk.jpg)


I then decided to go one further and bought myself a rotisserie jig too flip it..

Never have I touched cloth so many times than jacking the car up and balancing it on the jig, once on I had to remove the subframe, fuel tank and rear beam..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/53C4D75A-9840-4F03-A875-E297946D9C3D_zpsztvjibsb.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/DA2E15FF-CFD7-451A-9A91-0A2686DFA798_zps2fqhngp1.jpg)


So i started to crack on with removing all of the old underseal and Seam sealer, to be fair the underside was pretty good, not as much of a horror story as I had thought I would of been.. but saying that I'm only currently half way through, its taken me a good few days on the rear half of the car just because of all of the tight corners and hard to reach areas. I blew up my angle grinder and had to buy a new one, also shares in twist knot discs and wire brushes.

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/4993FEA1-2CE4-4133-B64A-67C045F93A0D_zps2yq7daxt.jpg)

Getting to the back of the spare wheel well was hard enough..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/843A3CCF-1625-4260-A23E-0BD67EFA1D7E_zpsyfnnholf.jpg)


Not if you have the tools for the job though

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/69B3A7AA-048A-42EB-B981-A44491A6AC8A_zpsaitwskgk.jpg)

Made it a lot easier..

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/A4D0CE23-94A1-43A4-ABC0-9DAC90FC2D42_zpspnvmjd6u.jpg)


Biggest horror parts were the rear passenger side panels behind the arch which had fully rotted away

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/FA011373-1720-4A04-A09C-918C7232D3BD_zpssi2xi9al.jpg)


The ribbed part on the inner sills

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/24CCFE84-822A-4D55-A775-1A9F77B83F57_zpsd7yma8jb.jpg)


I'm aware that I have a few big holes on the inner sill of the pass side but I haven't got that far yet..

Gave it a coat of primer to stop it rusting


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/EEB7C864-C992-4A99-9C51-6C27ECA8F730_zpsjhs4clna.jpg)

It should be done within the next few days hopefully, all arches included.

Once done all of the holes will be cut out and patched up so the floorpan will be completely solid..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 20, 2020, 05:57:37 PM
It's been a slow few months as I had found out that myself and a friend were paying 55% of the rent on our unit (between 4 of us, the other two were running a business, had a spray booth and most of the floor space, we had one car there which was my golf and still another two cars to move in) after I confronted who we sub-let from we were told we had a month to leave, we contacted the landlord and he sorted us somewhere..

So we had to start again, I've pretty much sat on my engine bay for a week straight removing all seam sealer and anything else.. it's been torturous and so repetitive but thankfully 99% of it is removed and has been blown over with some primer to prevent the surface rust coming..


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/C5E73EE8-31F2-4F25-9D50-3932F22A7AAF_zpsy2tfaqsh.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/9B256628-D4EA-4F81-A3E3-42ECA1A5EFF5_zps3cdwzftr.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/BA2D419D-4B3F-4923-B105-29E58B3AA5D4_zpskqlnzwri.jpg)


As I was sat there bored I decided to start on the front inner arches:

I gone as far back as bare metal in some places, I roughed up and degreased the factory primer in other places.

I then coated all rust with some bilt hamber deox gel to treat any surface and mild rust, I then degreased the panels with POR15 degreaser, then topped it with POR15 metal prep, this is important as it removes and traces of rust and leaves a coating which chemically bonds to the metal for the paint, I ran my finger along it and I could only compare it to running your finger along a hedgehog.. it really stuck to the metal and paint, I couldn't wipe it off or even really scratch it off.. this created the best base for the POR15 paint to go over the top.

This stuff is amazing.

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E167CDAC-EEFE-4A5C-9FB8-03C179C3689D_zpsntyno807.jpg)

(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/EA0E7949-D667-4161-B08B-EF7841AD58BA_zpswqhvzyja.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/E9C5A71A-543C-4227-A671-67F3BC5773EB_zpsdkiieokw.jpg)


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/FB9E405F-AF27-42CA-AD9C-A975CD7B89E5_zpsvgge8k4z.jpg)


It dries to a ceramic glossy finish, very very hard.. but yet flexible, I put a angle grinder with a wire brush attachment on it and it just scuffed the top.. at £30 a can I should bloody well hope so!

I'm happy enough to coat both the inside and underside of my car with this stuff, it's all in the prep, there are areas which I didn't apply the metal prep (as I still have work to do on them) and it is nowhere near as bonded.

It's a shame that it'll be coated with upol raptor but iive bearded even better things about that so we shall see..


(http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736/Liam_Roberts_1810/8B26122A-FC1C-4B44-95F0-34FB04A47743_zpszxlisgu3.jpg)
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 20, 2020, 06:07:13 PM
Well since I last updated this I have become more and more frustrated and I do not know how I’ve carried on but I’m now in the clear

After I had done the front arches I got the car back up on the jig and taken all of the underseal off and cut out the rust holes I had found

Both front 4 poster supports were destroyed along with a few grommet holes, I removed anything I didn’t need including rear exhaust hangers and the rusted out part of the exhaust tunnel and rotted bits of the bulkhead, I had some of this all welded up and now awaiting more to be completed

For anyone who is looking at doing what I have done READ THIS CAREFULLY

I took the underseal off and kept the factory primer on where I could, POR15 instructions recommends you can paint over clean paint.. WRONG

I purchased a new tin of POR as my old one was in a pretty bad condition, I painted the underside all the way up until the spare wheel well, the method I used was:

Decrease using marine clean then wiped off with blue roll and washed off (first mistake)

Coated the metal (and factory primer) with metal prep, waited and wiped off and waited till dry (second and third mistake)

I then painted the por15 on and came back the following day to do a second coat (forth mistake)

A few weeks later I accidentally dropped a screwdriver on the paint and realised it had peeled back.. I took some 600 grit to it was infuriated when it all peeled off in small sheets

I then decided to take it all back off again (£80 down the drain)

I realised that by using a wire brush on a angle grinder had only taken it back and was not clean bare metal so I started again... I took it all back to shiney bare metal with a 280 grit flap disc, perfect.. I followed the same steps again by wiping it off and waiting for it to dry, I then seam sealed it with 3M polyurethane seam sealer while it was slightly too wet which made a hell of a mess, I smoothed it out with some thinners and decided to get the upol raptor on it, they supply you with a 750ml bottle of raptor, 250ml of hardener and you tint it yourself with acrylic basecoat tinter, I chose nardo grey.. as I was rushing before work I mixed it all up, charged the compressor and shot it on using a shutz gun.. at 120 psi instead of 40-60psi they recommend, what a F*cking mess it caused, it went on horrendously, enraged at this moment I gave up and went to work..

Attempt number three followed:

I tried to use a heat gun to hopefully warm up the raptor and a scraper to remove it, I then tried a very fine wire brush on a drill to only remove the raptor, that didn’t work either so I had no other option but to take it back to bare metal AGAIN, I’m glad I did though as I took my time and followed these steps this time:

I roughed up the metal with 240 grit so the por15 has something to bond too

I degreased the metal and used a heat gun to dry it all including in the seams

I then used the metal prep the same way, sprayed on and waited 20 mins, rinsed it off with water and heat gunned it dry, this left the powdery white zinc phosphate coating ontop of the metal, I then painted a thin coat ontop of the metal, followed by a second coat when it was tacky, followed again by a third coat.. I left it for the day and came back the following week with some por15 tiecoat heavy build primer which is meant to etch into the por15 to allow you to top coat it, I rubbed back the por15 with some 600 grit and coated it all with tiecoat primer, waited three days (24 hour cure) and came back up to attempt the raptor bed liner again, i redid all of my seams with the seam sealer again, I mixed up the raptor and I shot it at the rear of the car to test it and it came out perfectly, this was a relief for me as i had finally got to where I wanted to be 5 months ago..


(https://s17.postimage.org/woi8z7m4b/1_A50_CF24-4019-49_CF-_BEA4-_CC02_BA1_AC039.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/5ry9qc5pn/2196259_B-_A932-45_FC-858_D-50_BA61_E3924_D.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/5dwxr0vzf/25_A85_F75-_E903-47_DD-9804-74_E98599_F458.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/rpuqkoxqz/3_DEDDBCF-4_B68-450_B-9_EB8-_CE675_DE0_CA58.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/88034qt3f/5_DFE7877-73_D3-4_C53-81_A4-8_A00_D9_CB7_DE0.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/u76hrrugb/A0845838-_D8_A7-47_F5-818_F-5_ACC729_A7_F9_F.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/fb7yk7lmj/C50_A1272-_FCDB-47_E0-_AAEF-431_B9_F26_E813.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/t4wb9dojf/D7744487-_C095-4_BDB-9824-_C26_FAD23_C89_E.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/6syifvmtn/D9349597-_B375-4_E72-927_B-836409_CAF980.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/i5b3xng2z/DD6_F5_F31-_EB47-4_EFF-991_B-5287391_AB1_CE.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/i5b3xoy3f/E3647312-8_CC9-4_B96-_A04_C-48_CBA18_ABFC4.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/ygb7u32wb/E569_ED4_F-2_EFF-4_DDB-8_EB9-56_AFAD84_B0_E0.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/fb7yk2o5n/FA4_EE716-3412-4213-_AF86-_CDC1_D28_DE958.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/6wsbw1sa3/16004499-43_E3-4_A73-_AD7_F-2_C7_E8_AA0182_B.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/q1vl601uz/71_EB123_B-71_A0-4485-9_DA7-0_A95_A52_A4_E2_C.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/4fgkoyvkr/7_FDC2859-_B2_D5-4_F00-_A535-9_DE6_B06_E5_C1_E.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/7z2ieqnzv/8051_DC26-96_C7-4_F6_A-849_C-_BCD241_DC874_D.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/54zd14e23/8_A772265-_CA1_B-4_EE3-8_B15-276_F2_D20_A710.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/nkjtykpmj/B6_FD7_BB2-29_CA-43_F5-9_C86-_BD05_A19_DBB77.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/e007bv0cb/BF1122_FC-3_D8_C-4_BE1-_BC58-872_F05661_EF6.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/dahezbs17/EF127_C42-_A37_F-40_F0-_B82_D-70_FEB425_CFDA.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/ilwbjxbi3/F1_F44029-96_AB-4_EB9-_BD18-042_D53_B8_C875.jpg)

*** Don’t ask me what happened to the photos, I don’t think they transferred over well..

Actual progress has happened, like genuine real progress..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 20, 2020, 06:16:36 PM
First off is the gaping obvious, the spare wheel well is gone.. cut out as I couldn’t get fully behind it to clean it up and prevent rust from forming, as I’m going to run a fuel cell anyway, it’s no biggie too me..There’s also another reason why which I’ll come to in a bit


(https://s17.postimage.org/892oog2or/0_A1410_A3-5_A11-4521-983_A-812_DEFA35_A4_E.jpg)

Both front Arches got a bottle of raptor each, anything left over was blasted at the bottom again to ensure it’s all nice and covered.

(https://s17.postimage.org/wctgcsy17/0000_A1_CC-45_EA-485_C-9714-7538_BCE6_BCD3.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/qbvrfpo9n/21190_A99-_D398-4_BDA-_B4_DC-51_E72598_CC8_F.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/3zxymc4l7/8_D40_B693-_A586-477_E-8355-8714_D49_CA463.jpg)


I managed to attack the rear passenger jacking point and that area using a compressor attached sand blaster, it was impossible to get everything using s drill or angle grinder, it was tedious but it worked in the end! The rear chassis leg and jacking point had the same principle of the por15, tie coat blah blah blah..


(https://s17.postimage.org/yu57k5hyj/6_D741_D45-_EA42-4_F0_B-91_E0-7_CD0_E47_FA912.jpg)

Found more and more rot behind the rear drivers jacking point, carried through to the where the rear valance is


(https://s17.postimage.org/z6wlqdpyj/31_A0_F978-26_B6-42_FE-937_F-_B8547_D6_B1162.jpg)

Here’s where it got fun..



I borrowed by girlfriends dads mig welder and started practicing how to weld, I have never welded in my life and I’ve always said to myself I don’t have the ability or patience to learn, I was under the impression that it would take months of trying on scrap metal to even get semi decent at it...

As with most things I’m a compulsive researcher, if I’m not familiar with things or I want to learn or I have to do something I’m unsure of, I’ll sit there till 2/3am Googling it, reading posts, watching videos.. and that’s what I exactly did.

After two evenings of practicing with scrap metal I decided to try it on the golf, I learnt to weld thin metal or thin to thick metal as it wouldn’t ever benefit me doing 4mm plate as none of my MK2 is probably more than 2mm thick

So I started on the rear passenger arch, I don’t think I have a before photo but I managed to give it a go, all played with 2mm thick steel.

(https://s17.postimage.org/ul0hi31vf/7_DF484_EE-62_A4-45_F9-_AF50-_D315_A61_EAF09.jpg)


(https://s17.postimage.org/gekqmv6fv/FAE357_C0-5062-46_D8-973_E-28_F96350_C85_D.jpg)


I then did the inner sill of the drivers side which was a pain because I’ve ground so much metal away it’s very thin in some places, trying to keep a decent amount of penetration twinned with not heating it up and blowing holes in it, but also trying to keep a nice decent run going so it’s not built up with loads of tacks

I corrected many parts the first welder (who still owes me money) had done, believe it or not, the inner rear wheel arch skin wasn’t welded down to the body.. only the outter arch by a few small tacks and the sills has two tack marks to join it to the remaining factory sill.

The worst part so far has got to be the bulkhead from where I cut it all out as I’m not running a servo, the bulkhead was all dented and cut out for the old hydro box and also I’m not running a heater matrix so all of them were cut out to what I thought was easy to cut to shape, really was not..

(https://s17.postimage.org/9bcv6yix7/30_EE7_ED5-_F1_A0-4047-_B35_D-_D6_F967_F3_F57_C.jpg)

(https://s17.postimage.org/fdkhx6ruz/2_F130_A96-37_B4-4475-9163-_D9_A7025_B5976.jpg)


(https://s17.postimage.org/4qqorrbzv/7_D2_DC6_D8-3224-4_A3_E-_A169-21234_BCCFE64.jpg)


Same story as before, blowing holes left right and centre but were getting there.. I’ve also removed the lip on the chassis legs and stitched them together

(https://s17.postimage.org/xgdkofy0b/993_CF7_D1-_ACD2-49_BA-888_D-4_AEED163_C36_F.jpg)


Once all welding on the bulkhead is done, I’ll spend some time cleaning up the welds as they’re nowhere near as flat as they could be..


Oh and that big hole at the botttom by the tunnel? Yeah that’s going to be done alright, along with the rest of the exhaust tunnel as it’s a bit shallow..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 20, 2020, 06:32:31 PM
I cut out the tunnel in preparation for the big tunnel, I had two options: find a over the top priced MK2 syncro one or fabricate one up, I opted for the latter:


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/4b30ccb59bd83cafa6893e283e79faa0.heic)


I removed the seat mounting points also as they had no use for me, went removing the spot welds I realised how thin the floor pan really was.. some of the spot welds literally teared a hole in the floor pan so I realised something had to be done..

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/6169be5763e564d94e177333748df5db.heic)

So I welded in a new floor pan using 2mm steel

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/f3b1e99ceef0883e5394704cfa951713.heic)


Although this seems far fetched, it really helped fit my tunnel, he tunnel I opted for was a two piece, big gearbox mk1/2 escort tunnel, allowing me to get the height I needed for the prop to run through

The same happened to the bottom section

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/0a5913e243b134aaffcc1190cb56d5e6.heic)

The hardest part was trying to weld through the constant fire from the seam sealer in between the panels as it was heating up and melting causing it to leak down right where I was welding.


Using cleco pins I would fit, measure, cut and repeat until the tunnel would fit

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/ccaf38accff334aac9cfb12c17c91841.heic)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/df08f652110551d9a69ef7f49b347122.heic)

I then welded in the tunnel so it would be in its testing position for the front end of the tunnel

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/b99c08a7f1fb33ca725a92e8e6c94b17.heic)

The front section of the tunnel was the hardest as it had the curves going to the bulkhead in the incorrect position, so the tunnel would sit wrong or too far out, so I replaced the bits going up to the bulkhead and welded the front of the tunnel in.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/978b3c690427452fc9ceab8772424b8c.heic)

Again I ran into more problems as the bulkhead had too many curves and was too thin, the thickness was very very scary as the angle grinder went through it like a hot knife through butter.. and I am not exaggerating. So out came the bulkhead!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/c793450a8da83fdb8e01aea502ec7d34.heic)

A template was made by a friend while I was at work and then cut out the following day

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/cfe3d8ef16352615ef3e31bc81712de6.heic)

And the new one was put in!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/351b88f1ed9b2b5dffe70d4e4045ead8.jpg)

To prevent denting the new bulkhead, a window maker jack was used to push the bulkhead back so it would meet the remains of the old bulkhead

Boot floor was also put in

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/1b6860c560d0036687e344585ecaf47c.heic)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180626/3b93500a49f7091f565e8a740a747461.heic)


So following on from what I’ve done, I haven’t made much progress I suppose, well it hasn’t felt like it anyway..


I finished off all of the welding on the underside, ground back what I wasn’t happy with and welded it again..

It was a lot more of the fiddly stuff this time such as where the new tunnel meets the end of the previous exhaust tunnel, photos are limited as my camera has broken..

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/fa894c7ac49da34381d5fa7882129516.jpg)

I decided to put the 2WD stuff back on so I could drop it off of the jig because I was struggling to get inside to weld from the inside..

The whole underside was painted with a few coats of zinc primer and taken off the jig

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/68b3074da722f6fe574942bc971a1d3d.jpg)

I also picked up the first body panel for the build..


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/1538e0d11a6fb519bd86b60db04d020a.jpg)

Full carbon fibre bonnet, it weights absolutely sod all, like to hold something that large and it feel like I’m holding a cardboard box is unreal..

It has its imperfections though which I need to get repaired, but for the price which I picked it up for, it is minor..

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/972f2db22dc2f2a2f4cb70435f05505c.jpg)

I’ve pretty much just been welding more and more of the inside, everything that was cut and welded in on the bottom has been welded again ontop for structural integrity and not to look half done..

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/fabfdf1c62367a1291e633980ce70778.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/5f3bac73c91056ce0fa4c5b6024c1b86.jpg)

I haven’t got a photo but this part is made up of 4 bits of metal, 3 welded from the floorpan to the floorpan reinforcement beam and then The final piece was welded ontop.


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/531e1f89b282d790a9aa894d1aec0dd9.jpg)

All soundproofing/sealant was removed from the drivers side and the whole drivers side was coated in zinc primer

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/b0bd3cab58e3c4b2626bd60e7f76f412.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/03edb95a298c932ad92ba3722c4187df.jpg)

And so far that’s it..

I haven’t had enough time to be up here and I also spent most of summer doing downhill or in the alps/Cornwall to try and make the most of it as opposed to being holed up in a sweltering unit trying to weld in 30+ degree heat.

I’ve got a very reasonable quote for a full weld in cage which I’m now saving up for ontop of going for a higher paying job which should speed up the build massively.

For now I’ll just be cracking on with welding and priming the inside rear for the rollcage to go in..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 20, 2020, 06:42:02 PM
Small progress but I pulled the mig around the front and made this little gem up..

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/445ad3d454b7cf476c8b83c1a1e92193.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/af0999fdb7d797a99ea0d9d2f1f0bf88.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/477d9687f96aa18aaa68949db8b65a43.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/9110aa5734f46e644c9aae1780d4ade1.jpg)

Excuse the camera quality.. I refuse to spend £95 per month on an iPhone XS so I’m waiting till they get cheaper before I take out a contract so until then, you’ll have to deal with photos which have been taken by a potato

It’s been a slow year, mostly fixing my MK6 and taking it to the ring

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/5adfbf7836cb2f8c125989caf466806b.jpg)


Sorting out the unit and making a mezzanine floor and chopping the Quattro in half and storing it all away for the S1 E2 build


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/29200e8d0fefc479d359de752bbe27d0.jpg)

Soooo not really sure what I’ve done or missed but here goes..

I finished off the welding on the inside as much as I could and removed the rear seat mount because that’s just weight and as I weigh 110kg.. every little helps

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/60fa1a9f7484bc3ea36212c994973a58.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/940fcb4e972d56f923e83955a5a8128d.jpg)

I also finished off the front end by welding 2mm plates over the chassis legs to tidy it up, I then smoothed them over and primed them up for the moment, while I was there I also stitch welded the turret seams

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/5b74247e4158abcd2082c81d18d3b715.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/ab5dfb816ea508e7aaf477944d99f7bd.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/3b592987d37103372648c51e31304240.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/5184a883bd1c5d818fb949d209e9d770.jpg)

This isn’t a scene queen build, I just could stand the chassis legs and how flimsy they looked

I then didn’t touch it for about 6 months through summer as thats when the mez was getting built and sorting out the unit.. I don’t understand how two people have so much stuff..

I knew I had to save up for a cage at some point and every time I got to about £600 I needed to buy something or fix something.. that’s until I hit the jackpot and found a MK2 Custom cages roll cage on eBay for £590, I instantly bought it and had it collected.

And here is the most progress I’ve made on it in a long long time, started two weeks ago..


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/656697b70d1d07c7fd7a7a0e1ecb1c4e.jpg)


None of the stickers were on the tubes and I had no instructions or photos so I contacted custom cages and had some images sent over, then it was a case of matching, tacking and repeating..

This has got to be the worst to install but best fitting rollcage going..

The B pillars had to be cut to allow the main hoop to fit, the A pillar tubes would kick out until the door bar was in place.. the sunroof didn’t fit even though they’re designed for sunroof cars! (Bye bye sunroof)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/35d53819805c98d95c121efba5cb6f95.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/e1ab09d7f25c45f8830fb36132cec3f0.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/6924656cad8d2e34609bd64282067114.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/0052632a7ce080b34676f49231c041f5.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/f16f7993c348be8ba1efbe803fbf22e3.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/5803faf63d1ba8019c4d6318c60f0bea.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/22c060e312840e85143da6309edc93b0.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/e6af62d5fef2fe9ddcb8570441fbfc73.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191115/fa0720ad3a08871e35e32acafb47da2f.jpg)


Due to me installing the sheet metal floor, the notches for the A pillar legs and main hoop don’t fit but I’ve got a way around that once the metal and spare tube arrive..

Currently it’s only all tacked in, awaiting my mate to find the time to weld it all in as I don’t trust my welder or my skill set! Once it’s done, I’ll be able to start throwing all the parts at it thag I’ve hoarded.
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 20, 2020, 06:47:55 PM
I started on the front triangulation for the roll cage, 38mm tube coming straight from the roll cage into the front turrets using 3mm steel as the spreader plate, I literally just tacked it in and bent it by hand or a BFH and some wood to prevent it from denting. Trying to line up the holes for both tubes was a huge pain and I spent a good part of two hours measuring angles and distances so it went through in one


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/81f36e7ae7e4d43e8fb7fe8f95c622a5.jpg)


Ignore the mess on the inside of the bulkhead🙄

 
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/a1a3b2e7095dd28d24b1699958aa7b5f.jpg)


I’m going to buy some pipe contour gauges on payday to tidy up the notches as I’m not happy with how they all mate together

Spreader plates being made up


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/c602d8a5aab41b00e1039551581d6695.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/e554f7a2a55b78c4cf9aef7f4a43133a.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/172fc410d22170546090d394c71492ec.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/42993e02425010d715a5a866d7efb211.jpg)


I then cracked on with getting the seats in, this was going to be a challenge due to the amount of variables in place as it literally came as 25mm tubes and brackets so making sure they were welded in place was key. I can’t remember how I worked it out but I just bolted through brackets to the seat mounts, places the tubes on and made sure it was equal on both sides, tacked them in place and went from there..

Again using 3mm and some cardboard cut outs I made the spreaders with a large surface area to compensate for the non OEM tunnel which is only 1.7mm thick


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/68f5c63d46a00bfea856ca7f469b9e51.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/262525c97be80fb548ae4694d5aff86a.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/31329179c971d5a883fb4ac28338a93c.jpg)


(http://Once welded in, I measured up where I wanted the holes to go which was a lot of “in and out” of the seat which was a pain in the ass


[img] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/13a729ffeccaec581d2f05f486a3707c.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/e1d3d142c2211659a68979b47ece8523.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/351fd078edecd94e780fbd7750fa5e3e.jpg)


And finally in and mounted!


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/a64617f8a611023730682cee6b015d54.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/577f20cdbdb805557c5fb191f503579d.jpg)

And now to start on the other side...

Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 21, 2020, 11:15:58 PM
I could of sworn I updated this sooner on the old forum but suppose I didn’t so bear with as I can’t remember anything as it’s all been a blur since the start of the year

What I’ve put below is pretty much from the photos I’ve taken and found..

To start with, I finished the seat mounts, again using 3mm steel for the spreader plates, over sized to put some strength into the tunnel as it’s pretty thin.. the seat tubes are held in by approx 6.7mm of steel   Taking into consideration the 1.7mm tunnel, the 3mm spreader and then the 2mm spreader that came with the seat mounts


(https://i.ibb.co/J77pfyc/30-DDE7-EB-A76-B-42-EA-A5-F7-3-E736228026-B.jpg)

And then the seats could be mounted for the first time since I bought them over 3 years ago

(https://i.ibb.co/QftW4kQ/BEBD26-DE-D739-46-D3-8497-E416912498-CB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/98mzfX9/C3-CFC0-C9-21-A6-4-DD7-AF92-BF1-DFC747-F84.jpg)


The roof was removed for access to weld in the cage fully and also for the carbon roof at a later date

(https://i.ibb.co/NYSpWWx/FB6-E0-C45-AE74-4-EEB-8-FEB-0-D2386-B75753.jpg)


The inside was then sanded back to get rid of all the grease, cutting fluid and general dirt and painted with some etch primer and epoxy to stop it rusting with the moisture in the air

(https://i.ibb.co/MS2zWm6/2-AB8983-A-1222-4018-9359-4283-A67-DEDDC.jpg)

The front triangulation was also done using 38.1mm CDS, I was planning on going higher and going through the scuttle but due to the angles, it would of been too close to the dash bar/bend in the tube, really should invest in a plasma cutter for things like this as elongating the hole for the tube with a power file wasn’t fun in the slightest.. spreader plates were again added to brace the tube as it went through the bulkhead

(https://i.ibb.co/bRS2mfM/910-E3489-5-BCD-4-E5-B-8117-151640705723.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/fFTQZLV/64-D59933-677-C-4-EAE-91-FD-0-D9-AA1011-E44.jpg)

The front turret spreader plates were also boxed in to strengthen them, using 2mm steel I made a “box” off the car using some CAD (cardboard aided design)

(https://i.ibb.co/MGd8p43/CD87-F4-F1-EEB7-46-D0-BCE7-9104-FDDC5-C1-C.jpg)




But unfortunately I didn’t take any photos when mounting them in..



Afterwards it was time to crack on with mounting the pedal box, and in hindsight I should of stopped there and sold it because I never liked it.. I was literally using it because I bought it, it was an OBP victory line floor mounted box and I thought to myself “oh I can just remove it and replace it at a later date” I was wrong.. so wrong..


But anywho.. I wanted it adjustable so I could move it forward or back so i opted for some unistrut, after removing the galv and bolting it all up, I cracked on with welding it in and making a raised floor around it

(https://i.ibb.co/QJjThMD/E3-CA8-B7-E-7-D3-B-4-B86-A483-83-AFE0-A05731.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/SRjgxGW/4-B023950-9-D27-4525-BB97-81-D35-A4717-CE.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/3sBxVtL/100-A8-D83-C23-C-420-C-B880-6-D56-EACFF982.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/YhZzCFp/974524-B0-EDF1-4-FFC-9-E83-E359-C24729-E7.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/NTWhyhk/71-FDCCD5-77-E4-4549-BA72-EE166-CAC66-FD.jpg)

I got in the seat and just couldn’t get it comfortable, no matter what I did it was just straining my ankles to put any pressure on the brakes, it felt horrid.. pedals were too high, too close and when placing a wooden block behind the pedal, it would flex..

So I bought this beautiful thing as a replacement, I could fork out the £££ for a tilton set up, especially reverse mounted

(https://i.ibb.co/WPYPXrH/CBBE39-B4-14-A9-461-B-9662-C7-ACB3-AE5-CE4.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/qWpB5fW/C699399-C-4-D63-467-F-97-BB-D6-B589-EDBE9-B.jpg)

I opted for 3x 0.75 rebuildable cylinders as I’ll control the bias using the bias bar and bias valves for the rears, but if my Maths is correct, 0.75 is prime for my 4pots up front


So it sat in a box for a little while as I got on with anything else whilst I was waiting for the cage to get welded in.. one thing was hole sawing and dimple dieing the rear C pillars, this is more for form over function but i managed to shed about 750g from each side

(https://i.ibb.co/svRv5cj/AAC8-B2-BC-43-F4-43-C3-A47-A-80671-AE772-EF.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/r24Nq0L/F88-D1-A92-D54-A-44-E9-B950-934-D5-A68-BE06.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/WWm2tvw/49-DD3-B52-4-EBD-4922-AC39-195-C16589-EBC.jpg)



Harness bars were also added

(https://i.ibb.co/NSdZK9L/EF9-E56-D7-1-F79-4-FDE-8946-8218-DA9-E321-D.jpg)

Ensuring that the harness would be between 0 and 45 degrees from the seat to ensure no spines get compressed if the worst happens..

Then the car got pushed around the corner and the cage finally welded in, which has felt like the biggest bit of progress because now I can start bolting things in for good..

A and B pillars were gusseted,  X brace on the main hoop and door bars also gusseted


(https://i.ibb.co/3y1hcd5/4-A0769-A3-6130-4624-A0-E2-48-B112836-D92.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/12B2JTd/C711-C0-E4-6-AA7-4-D2-C-B9-BA-031634-E18754.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/FgbJPD2/7-D7-AFC93-957-F-44-A6-8344-3-C5983352-C18.jpg)[/url]

(https://i.ibb.co/Tk7hn4V/8222-FA4-C-7835-4298-B10-A-3-CB23-D5-B0620.jpg)

And then decided to go back to my original route of a corrado dash, managed to grab a flocked early corrado dash (albeit grey) which will be flocked black at a later date, the dash was cut and chopped to allow the roll cage to pass through, the side brackets for the MK2 dash were cut and welded to the A pillar bars of the roll cage and the front of the dash was trimmed down, thankfully as there’s no heater matrix or anything like that going in, it wasn’t too bad to do.. the holes will be covered with the speaker covers


(https://i.ibb.co/wBMSnZt/47721-EA1-8-E8-C-487-B-9040-28-B6-D8-B8-A271.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/mvzNMkB/F21-DA16-A-B6-E4-45-DB-8-C03-ABF20-FEC07-A0.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/7tcS10j/FF8-A9201-F926-4-C04-BE7-D-0739-AF0-C960-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/JCsm6qJ/8-A8-A9852-103-E-4-EAD-956-A-B06-A7-D0032-A7.jpg)

In this time I also bought a new welder, a murex transmig 350, wired up some 3 phase into the unit and practiced and All I can say is I wish I bought this so much sooner, the power and adjustability is something else..

Side by side for a comparison..

(https://i.ibb.co/253BYZk/BADFA372-FCDF-4-FFC-9-C25-0-D752-EB63956.jpg)

I then started on the pedal box mounting..

I spent ages thinking of a method to retain the adjustability but because the OBP pedal box has its mounting holes on the opposite side (literally a mirror flip) all of the existing brackets were useless.. so out came the angle grinder, I knew I had limited space so I needed to mount the pedal box on an angle to get some extra room for the master cylinders to be removed, whilst I had a gaping hole I could slide my dimple die into, I measured up and hole sawed the “floor” to try and get back some weight savings


(https://i.ibb.co/WfHqm4c/E95-C1-ADC-F362-4-C52-AF72-B6-C446254-BCA.jpg)

The backing plate was made up with some weld in T nuts

(https://i.ibb.co/B6fVTNk/4-D1029-F0-EF1-B-4560-8357-3-E1-F8280-A901.jpg)

The pedal box mount was then mounted using 3mm steel


(https://i.ibb.co/pjXjgfT/43-A49358-9477-416-D-9-FD0-CA298-E813029.jpg)

And finally mounting it


(https://i.ibb.co/7k6dWKJ/E859-B81-D-4-CB1-4906-BACE-02-AE9-C5342-E3.jpg)


Next, I converted my harnesses to 6 point using an additional TRS 6 point adapter, 100mm x 100mm spreaders were welded in, FIA spec captive nut spreaders and eyelets used for them and also the lap belts

(https://i.ibb.co/2KB3TCN/1-DDF7-EDC-3-A3-D-4789-BEE6-2-BA9-FD8236-F3.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/4t0qWSw/27495-BE9-7624-4-C0-A-8-DB9-172-F46498701.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/KwmThGb/25-F0-E159-20-D4-412-F-9531-13-D134551-BDF.jpg)


My original vibratechnics front engine mount was refurbished, I missed doing things like this..

(https://i.ibb.co/6vBM3fz/D3597-C2-E-4-BC6-49-AD-955-F-5788-B6-D1-BD58.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/5MCSvcf/0-B930-ECF-0946-4-F8-E-B518-FD02-E4-FB824-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/KLLLjLk/B6-A4849-D-3-F76-4-A02-AAB6-F5-A8-EFF28305.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/T2tjpWW/DF5-DBF5-F-BCCE-4-DB5-A555-97685258-B17-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/WfW8Vss/DE572-F8-D-D195-47-A1-B135-C06-FB2-D9-D14-E.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/3p5s7R4/411-B9-D4-B-3346-4-FEC-973-C-906026-FE7-E20.jpg)

And as I’ve got the bug for fabricating things I’ve decided to save some money by building a tubular front cross member as there aren’t any which are in the uk/eu and i refuse to spend 1/5th of the price on postage and import taxes alone..

First of all was what was going to hold the engine mount..


(https://i.ibb.co/P5xRW7t/C3-C6-AA90-7265-410-D-847-B-14-A88-EC63635.jpg)

78mm ERW with some 3MM on the bottom

(https://i.ibb.co/QvT8Gr6/9-AB7-B0-A6-7198-483-A-9-ED7-200-B2-C2225-DF.jpg)



(https://i.ibb.co/mtqnJCT/F29303-B5-A3-DC-4-F26-BAB0-FD408-C87-F540.jpg)


And then the bracket that bolts to the chassis rail, using a tube notcher (best investment ever) I made it from some 38.1 ERW and I can’t complain, using the old insert as a jig, I measured, measured and measured again before cutting

(https://i.ibb.co/D89MpjK/944-F7-C42-6-E83-4-EB4-8141-5-FCBC5-F678-A8.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/WG0YSdM/864-BF5-F9-B230-46-DF-B88-B-220171665-CF8.jpg)

And repeat for both sides..

(https://i.ibb.co/GFHGW0g/A48-DB378-7-AC6-4-D1-D-8-B69-4-DFF3-E712-AE5.jpg)

That’s as far as I’ve got with the cross member until I car get hold of a tube bender


And moving on, I started on a tubular cross member, to allow me to have more adjustability with the oil cooler/radiator/intercooler, again some 3mm bent at 90 degrees for the brackets and 38.1 ERW for the tube itself

(https://i.ibb.co/C0jmj6X/1-AE2-CBB5-02-D5-4572-89-D4-DE0536-E61-C9-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/922WmtB/FDEEF1-F9-BA82-4-B74-A547-93-C5-F5-DE10-D0.jpg)
That’s as far as I’ve got with the cross member until I mount the front bumper/grille/lights so it all lines up.. god I love making it so much more difficult than I need too

In my downtime between shifts I pulled the syncro gear down from the mez and started to rebuild the arms, I started by sandblasting them


3 coats of etch


(https://i.ibb.co/WKrgyLQ/409291-CE-C201-4-E34-9-A39-745-E3036-D9-A0.jpg)

Then coated with 4 thin coats of hammerite hammered black



SKF bearings were stripped, degreased and greased with some redline CV-2 high performance grease to ensure the grease lasts increased temps

(https://i.ibb.co/qsJ4Hc5/ED63-C4-A1-71-A4-4213-9-D78-CDD71-D72-A216.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/XtcpmkP/01538-AAD-606-B-40-F1-8548-60-E77-D231-D1-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/1Jyfh3m/F2-A6-D894-8-EF2-4-E4-B-A000-07-BEA4096-FC6.jpg)


Powerflex black series bushes were pressed in and mounted to my syncro rear beam to ensure it all fits, 5x100 front VR6 hubs mounted also


I got hold of a TT haldex and a epytec haldex adapter, after about 4 hours of measuring, tacking, grinding, relocating and repeating.. I turned up the amps and welded the diff bracket in for the haldex

(https://i.ibb.co/thjvfyn/1-F699292-1211-4596-A106-099-AF12-D2-D27.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/JvcLW3X/215-B58-B0-2-D6-F-4468-AA5-D-2-F025-A42-A715.jpg)

And how she currently sits


(https://i.ibb.co/wJQnJtn/9-A43-F677-968-C-42-E8-87-E1-AB5213-AC3483.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/QrvXLxR/724-C9342-E1-F3-4-B35-A253-825-CD13-A6130.jpg)

Also picked up a 60L ATL fuel cell for next to morning with a brand new top plate somewhere along the line

(https://i.ibb.co/x39DWKD/14-B40-F10-D4-DA-4-B16-9-B6-E-C13-A0229-C258.jpg)


And that’s it! For the moment, next is haldex swap rear drive shafts and god knows what else..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on August 21, 2020, 07:50:06 PM
As I’m waiting on a sourcing an 02M 6 cylinder gearbox, I did some of the things I’ve not really had the urge to do, the Mounting for the Adrenalin tuning shifter was one of them, as the tunnel is so sloped, I had to level it out and knowing that it wasn’t going to be an easy “cut at X angle for 200mm” it was going to be a bit of a pain but I had to do it and I’m glad I did as it really makes me feel that bit closer to getting it running..

2mm Steel nuts welded on the back and she fit like a dream

(https://i.ibb.co/W6W2M3F/2-E6-CA17-D-6-FE3-48-C5-8937-5743-B6-F30-AA4.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/QrFgb5q/3473-F12-F-4458-411-D-9522-2377-D019-F414.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/RgfsFqp/089475-F9-5-CFB-434-F-B4-AC-932334003295.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/bswR1Gj/88-C9-D718-4-AF5-4-EA1-A3-C0-7-B07-B8718597.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/DgTB8WV/F94-C75-F7-B8-CF-4-F8-F-BD93-6-F2-BBACE65-C1.jpg)

As the seats were out to weld in the shifter mount, I made up the spreader plates for the passenger side 6 point harnesses and lap belts.

(https://i.ibb.co/hL24CfK/D1943729-D36-B-4-F2-D-A720-2017-B4-E51700.jpg)

The haldex rear beam was all put together so I could start getting an idea of rear driveshaft lengths and angles

(https://i.ibb.co/dpXvryz/504-C7-A8-C-DBE5-4-E0-D-9-D35-63-ABD17-BDF21.jpg)

The TT rear shafts were cut and I took out about 30-35mm from both, I then slid some tube over which had an ID of 27mm which matches the driveshafts, what I plan to do is get it at running height and then weld the sleeves in place to account for the angle of the arms, I’ll then send these off to get them made as one piece

(https://i.ibb.co/31fgpwV/AFC01-F71-F22-F-4-F61-96-B1-F25-D53-DB2195.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/V3BdpDb/495992-F0-F9-CD-4-CC8-917-F-79-D9838-D268-E.jpg)

Then it was on to the slam panel, don’t get me wrong, the original is lightweight and it would of been less of a headache to use but it lacks adjustability, strength and is flimsy as soon as you start cutting into it (not good when I have two oil coolers, a MK3 VR6 radiator and possibly an Intercooler/charge cooler radiator to mount

So following on from the last post:

Current specs are -

3mm steel for the mounts
38.1mm tube
12.7mm tube for the headlight mounts
30x15x2mm box section for the radiator bracket and grill tabs

The biggest problem I had was the headlights, lining them up With each other, the grill and making sure they’re solid enough, it is heavier but it’s allowed me to rake the radiator forwards and I can add to it at a later date

(https://i.ibb.co/LYSw9xm/EA1-F5-A5-E-789-F-4-E37-9232-80495-A5-E65-D1.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/48Sftpy/BE6-DC2-D9-6401-4-ED2-BF15-8-F99384-D8-A91.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/ZSMDCSM/F600742-E-FDCB-49-B0-B93-E-2-D52889-D6184.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/zGWm4CZ/9-FC818-EB-BEE3-4359-BDCF-F465180-DEA62.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/0XQLmsS/813-C8-F85-B1-FF-4-DED-B7-DE-C7-C9-BDE8-BDC9.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Gn2FFnP/C9-C20-D35-98-A1-4-F78-B131-DB8-DD922-A361.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/1qQSPQK/08-EE4069-AFFB-418-E-B7-C4-961-E8607497-A.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/1RnFg19/D86-EE7-DC-4741-4-FD5-A532-CD362566-D988.jpg)

Once I figure out what cooler I’m going to run for the gearbox, I’ll mount both the engine and gearbox oil cooler behind the grill and then once the arches are on, the aerocatch pins will have brackets made up and will be welded onto the top tube, all in all I’m pretty happy with how it came out from a simple idea in my head that I’ve not seen anyone else do

And to finish, the dash plastics rocked up so they were fitted along with the speaker covers to hide the roll cage holes

(https://i.ibb.co/LvDv1Tv/33-B6-C9-A7-E9-B7-43-B7-BF1-C-F9884-C5-D928-A.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/PTtD4dy/D6-E98-CFD-837-A-4-AF1-AB32-BC234748-CFB6.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/W3CFcdT/A6-DCA75-D-FF79-4-AFD-9-F22-B82-F028-AE75-A.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/S75N8B7/C348-AE56-1839-49-D5-87-C2-33-AE24-BF8065.jpg)

And once the gearbox is here (should be next week), the engine will be dropped in to enable me to fabricate the cross member, prop bearing mount and haldex adapter bushing bracket and then I’ll start throwing the fuel system together

Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on September 15, 2020, 01:36:18 AM
Not a lot to really update on this..

Managed to get hold of a 4 motion 02M gearbox which meant the engine could be mounted up, no idea on the history of the gearbox but it’ll be split and rebuilt with whatever gear set I throw into it. As with everything, the box was cleaned down before mounting in so that  I didn’t cover everything in CV grease and mainly because I’m pedantic..

(https://i.ibb.co/Krb1sBS/4264-EBEE-4081-467-C-9708-0244-D9-A87-A3-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/GMSgQT2/26-BC026-D-2614-4693-B1-F4-4-A70-E0014821.jpg)

The engine was cleaned down as it was covered in metal dust, dust, cob webs and all sorts.. as it’s been out for about 3 years and 10 months...

Engine and box married up, although no clutch and flywheel fitted to make it easier, then hoisted in and mounted with a Dutchbuild front 02M conversion bracket and a epytec gearbox adapter bracket. Stock corrado cross member was used just to locate where it needs to sit but ran into a snag due to the fact that the drivers side rear engine mount was shortened in a lathe just before I took it off of the road and due to the epytec adapter, it sits on an angle so a new rear engine mount is needed.

(https://i.ibb.co/NmJzV5B/76-A7-CAB8-18-DA-42-BB-B918-51-A15-F795796.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/9VCpPbg/40-B4-A8-C8-569-A-4380-BA64-B246-BC7-F4228.jpg)

The other problem which I started to see a few months ago was the front triangulation fouling the turbo, stupidly when I put the tubes in, I thought the turbo would end up in the middle of the engine bay.. completely forgetting that the engine is sat to the left of the engine bay sooo.. the turbo will only fit if underslung, leaving next to no room for a downpipe against the engine mount and will melt the steering column boot, so that’s an excuse to get a tubular one made up to sit the turbo to the rear right of the engine

(https://i.ibb.co/GWCT5bm/8704-EF15-5277-44-F2-95-CC-9-D4231-ADFBAD.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/LCJ5rfj/347967-A0-47-D2-4-B43-999-F-23169-E3-FFDC3.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/8brMP4F/AB67-E651-1-F33-4-B0-F-B9-BC-EBAE87751725.jpg)

(The engine is currently jacked up off of the aux bracket to keep it level and not sit on the chassis legs

Because the gearbox was in, I decided to mount the rear haldex system so I could fab up the prop bearing bracket and haldex cradle tubes, just trying to finish all fabrication so I can start putting things on..


(https://i.ibb.co/S0nFJBh/52-C09-FDF-60-B5-4182-99-DF-4-CEC14-B689-BD.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/y4DLcHq/E2-CA682-C-BB7-D-4-DE1-87-BB-9-FB04-CE4-A4-F9.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/2kQS0f9/53-F122-D1-5916-47-DD-8219-4697-B0778998.jpg)

I was under the impression that the prop would need shortening, but it actually married up pretty well, all that was needed was to pull the cup back to expose the joint, pull down a little bit and they both went together

(https://i.ibb.co/b68XRNs/0-DB44-A3-B-7992-48-CD-96-DD-808892-A1658-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/0BxQpL7/14-C5-DE9-A-957-F-442-F-AC62-D84-C013197-CC.jpg)

Although this exposed problem number two.. Which I had again, foreseen..


(https://i.ibb.co/WFr1rZv/AB5-BCA1-E-9-C91-4-B73-80-F3-0-E2-FF5-A7-D387.jpg)

The tunnel needs to be extended to prevent the prop from rubbing on the floor where the rear seats previously were, this isn’t that much of a problem as it’ll go back on the jig anyway, but it does mean more cutting and welding.

I also made a start on the haldex cradle hanger tubes, the rear turrets has 3mm spreader plates welded onto them and the boot floor was cut open so I could make a start on the tubes, although this is literally all that has been done as I ran out of time today..

(https://i.ibb.co/KNyqVGj/C6109-DE0-CBB4-463-E-990-F-559-C6-E29-C38-A.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/0GsXs8m/8-E654-DC7-26-AB-4949-BEBD-FF42-AB6-E9-A09.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/F7ms6y1/7-F995-DC1-D59-B-425-D-A361-8-ED54-E8-F544-B.jpg)

And that’s it really, I spent a few hours the other night making a game plan on how to finish this, or Atleast get it to a stage where it can be painted to prevent any more rust from the humidity in the air and having it all laid out really does help! Aiming to have it back on the jig by Christmas to do the tunnel and under seal it and finally put the welder down..
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on September 15, 2020, 09:12:44 PM
Carrying on from yesterday, I cracked on with making a cardboard template for the box which will sit on top of the epytec haldex bracket so it’s level.

(https://i.ibb.co/pdtD4nL/6-F797806-39-F3-483-B-94-CB-7-F3-B0888-CD42.jpg)

The rear cradle was jacked up to ensure it was level, tightening the mounting brackets at the same time, using powerflex black series rear haldex bushings also helped as there is no give in them.

This was then transferred onto 3mm steel and cut and tacked

(https://i.ibb.co/1GdYPwW/4361-F2-FF-3-D14-4-BE8-A646-C8777-B95-A877.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/tzKYqCT/8-E1-BEC84-ACB1-45-AF-84-DB-0-BFDDB008-BDD.jpg)

I’m planning on using M12 bolts to hold it all together so the holes were drilled using a 12.5mm drill bit

The uprights posts were also made up using 38.1mm ERW tube, 3mm end caps with 12.5mm holes drilled in the centre

(https://i.ibb.co/RCrgJ9y/889-F1-D57-E15-E-4-CB5-9-F0-F-2115-EF308-DEA.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/YcXLJhc/AB5-E14-C6-62-CD-4-BD2-B4-A8-D3-B814-EA6-F89.jpg)

The uprights were then bolted down to the bracket and the gap measured so I knew how much I had to notch from the bridge tube

(https://i.ibb.co/nmwKC3X/D60-C6-CC5-AD3-C-423-F-94-BC-7184-B882-DABA.jpg)

 some more tube was cut down for the bridge

(https://i.ibb.co/5GbwNd7/AE4-EC1-FD-7-DF9-4-C17-B575-5-C93387-B5-B2-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/ByWhVxy/70-A1-C47-F-B62-B-4735-A4-AB-7901-E91-C12-EC.jpg)

And placed inside

(https://i.ibb.co/SfwJVXX/063-EAFA0-837-F-4-D10-932-E-2-C253-CCCA7-F6.jpg)

I haven’t been able to do more than tacks as my welding mask won’t retain charge, while there was daylight I’ve been putting the mask outside in the sun to let it charge, running back inside and tacking then repeating it a couple of hundred times.. the fun stopped when it got dark though so haven’t been able to do more which is an inconvenience to say the least..

A new battery ordered though so I can crack on with mounting the other tubes, putting the boot floor back together and finishing the welding
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: Monkey on September 16, 2020, 09:20:58 AM
Great updates, really enjoying watching it coming together.
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on September 17, 2020, 07:55:16 PM
Great updates, really enjoying watching it coming together.

Cheers man, want to get it done now so just trying to crack on with it, trying to see every little job as progress
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on September 17, 2020, 08:02:33 PM
Managed to get a battery for my mask so it was full steam ahead to finish off this diff hanger.

First was to finish welding the mounting tubes

(https://i.ibb.co/31RWqw7/A692-D671-355-E-4200-8-C09-DF9652-BBB042.jpg)

Then it was onto notching the tubes which mount to the turrets, making sure they were both even and both at a 40 degree angle

(https://i.ibb.co/8X09x4t/B6114-C39-B403-4-D21-BE2-A-9-D8-C0-B147-A73.jpg)

(My notcher is out by 5 degrees due to the clamp pulling it when tightened)

Then tacking in place and welding

(https://i.ibb.co/Mn7zXMW/5331-E3-E1-5-ACD-4031-A6-A9-DB0-A9513-FA0-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/LS3YSLK/170-C243-F-87-BF-4547-9492-069524-EF777-F.jpg)

And then finally the horizontal bar to tie it all together

(https://i.ibb.co/D7Ksgd1/FB8-B072-F-D651-467-D-92-FD-1023864-A14-BA.jpg)

I was planning on doing cutting the holes in the floor pan which I had cut out but I’ve managed to lose my 40mm hole saw so with another one on order, that’ll have to do for today. Just needs to be welded to the turrets once I have that bit of boot floor back in

Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on October 22, 2020, 08:43:43 PM
So after a delivery of my 40mm hole saw bit, I finished the spreader plates for the boot floor which allowed me to weld the plate i cut out and weld the tubes onto the turrets

(https://i.ibb.co/sQ0s3yh/1-AC21556-D441-40-D9-BF24-1-A6-ADC505-D88.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/QMgL3G6/B2935335-A058-4-E1-A-9-A0-F-730-EF42-AFA27.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BBpb5Rg)

(https://i.ibb.co/TLs3w6M/6-E5440-E8-1-F1-E-46-B1-8331-A533-C04-FD61-C.jpg)

And more holes in the floor had to be cut, felt like I was going backwards but once finished, I really felt like I had overcome a huge hurdle

(https://i.ibb.co/NNpsb5C/4-EEF579-B-73-BA-43-DD-9-BDA-B58-A494-CD08-A.jpg)

As the rear donut for the prop was very very close to the floor of where the rear seats go, I had to raise it. So as I used a mk1/2 escort front and mid tunnel, I bought a rear tunnel as that should fit right?

Yeah kinda

I didn’t foresee this when I was installing the tunnel so I chopped off the end of the tunnel to make it fit the MK2, really I should of kept that bit I chopped out as it would of mated up perfectly, but I threw it so I had a bit of a gap between the centre tunnel and the rear extension

(https://i.ibb.co/2hbL2mL/B522-ECFF-259-C-4311-A03-B-8-C0-DBE2385-DD.jpg)

So I had to bridge the gap..

(https://i.ibb.co/4M30yfR/641979-F0-C08-F-475-B-A7-F9-FF9-D38660-EEB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/wyBfT9g/88-DD1443-923-C-4013-9-D2-B-23-E8-B2-A65-FB6.jpg)

And sent it with the welder

(https://i.ibb.co/5Tx05C0/61-B428-F9-3261-422-F-B3-EE-1-BC4072-E8544.jpg)

Then wire brushed it all, getting in all of the corners and removing the 4-5 layers of paint which didn’t exactly stick well..

(https://i.ibb.co/NFDByXV/6-E9-B534-F-37-B4-48-CD-93-A4-800601-FB03-B3.jpg)

Another issue I had with the prop was the centre bearing being too wide for the tunnel to go high enough so the prop was straight

After finding the part number and dimensions of the TT bearing, I found a BMW X5 bearing fit with a smaller bracket.. this is next on the list to weld in

(https://i.ibb.co/4dn6p2d/DAF58695-46-C0-47-FC-9256-86-FA44-D92-CDC.jpg)

And also mount the fuel tank and route the fuel system as I’ve got my shiney new fuel cell container

(https://i.ibb.co/BqKmXtk/B20-E716-A-F929-4-F5-D-944-E-827888-B919-CE.jpg)
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: AndyBa on October 24, 2020, 01:29:10 AM
I'm  envious of your welding skills. Not that I'd be embarking on such a project. Just the ability to do my own welding and not pay for someone to make a mess of it!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on October 28, 2020, 01:25:02 AM
I'm  envious of your welding skills. Not that I'd be embarking on such a project. Just the ability to do my own welding and not pay for someone to make a mess of it!

Honestly, I thought the exact same thing 3-4 years ago. I really envied people who could weld, but I picked up the torch and started practicing, I wouldn’t say I’m good, I’d say I’m average and confident in what I’m doing and what I know I can/can’t do.

The best thing you can do is just grab one from tool station or eBay and give it a shot. Apart from some pointers from some friends at the unit, I’ve taught myself with a few google searches to assist.

What I now envy is those who can tig😂
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on November 14, 2020, 06:57:53 PM
Few little updates:

One of the things which was really bugging me was the accumulation of metal filings, dust and just general crap which had built up on the rear seat bases and in all the hard to reach areas. After finally installing the rear section of the tunnel I knew I would be coating it in primer to prevent rust creeping I decided to crawl through the rollcage and sat inside with all sorts of wire brushes and twist knot attachments for grinders and drills to remove it all, typical of me not to get a “before and during” photo.. buy I got a finish photo when the etch was put down

(https://i.ibb.co/dBNdC6p/EA23-FE53-6-A7-E-4-B76-A864-DA7057-F0-E225.jpg)

Seeing as I was in that area and I had a fuel tank sat around, I started on the mounting for the fuel tank, taking the idea from battery tie down brackets, I made the mounting from 4mm flat bar and equal angle

The design still allows the fuel tank to be removed but is held firmly in place when the top bars are tightened down

(https://i.ibb.co/0G4MGMn/E0-A85-D78-C03-D-413-C-B111-BC1820584-BFC.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/7npRKbf/D66-C54-CC-0491-4-F93-9061-497-D1-D4-A746-C.jpg)

Meanwhile everything was roughed and coated with zinc 182 to assist with the humidity creeping through the porous etch primer


(https://i.ibb.co/q7GL3Fc/3-D58-EF2-A-8-F1-E-4746-8-C98-C3040222-CAD2.jpg)

And finally, she’s in place

(https://i.ibb.co/B3Rwdnq/0-D871-ABA-7737-4582-A98-F-B5-FA7-E83-D5-EA.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/hsZ3rKN/ECD77-A85-1-E1-E-450-F-B61-B-47-E9-BA1-A9-BA8.jpg)

Moving on from the fuel tank, I managed to get hold of a 16 row 235mm mocal oil cooler for next to nothing a few months back and has been collecting dust ever since, so it was time to mount my existing oil cooler and the new one..

15mm box section with some plates from the flat bar.. I need to get some nylon washers to mount between the brackets and the coolers but apart from that, it was easy enough!

(https://i.ibb.co/k9gGx8F/1-ACCB1-D5-058-D-4-D20-9-CF1-8-C28-F61801-F1.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/1LJCdV9/DC79-BCDE-9-AD4-4005-9641-7240212298-B5.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/F0PVBLm/D68487-B8-549-B-4-FAD-9-E31-D80-EFC0-FFC78.jpg)

The plan is for the 235mm wide one to cool the engine (with a thermostatic valve to prevent the problems I was having before) and the 115mm heavy duty one to be for the gearbox with a mocal gear driven oil pump to supply the oil.
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on November 28, 2020, 07:52:00 PM
Small few updates as I need my AN fittings and manifolds for the dual Bosch 044 pumps but instead of buying them to continue making progress.. I’ve been sniping some dirt cheap parts on eBay which I need later in the build such as a wastegate, BOV, gearbox oil pump and new exhaust manifold..

So as I haven’t got anything new to put on at this moment in time, I’ve been ticking off a few jobs which I have been putting off for a while

First off is the glovebox

The corrado glovebox is too long to fit in the dash so needs shortening, stupidly I haven’t got any photos of be butchering it, but what i do have is of it being rebuilt.

Simply all I did was cut the middle section of the glove box out and married both sides up and fixed them together with woven roven fibreglass

(https://i.ibb.co/Y0GwqVv/29737-EE9-FD51-4-A16-8-FF4-9-ABF2-C12-F016.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/PmJFfJt/6-AC3-E237-C187-420-E-A83-C-D4-F8-ABFA0-C55.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/SNLbdhL/image.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/VWNfBgP/image.jpg)

I also removed everything from the front and painted the floor in the same zinc paint I painted the back end with, again to prevent rusting especially going into winter with the condensation of running a 9kw fan

(https://i.ibb.co/qJJ0550/676-B1103-1-D0-A-46-D0-9-CE7-57748-A3-C1-BE7.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/bbRnQB9/4-A575-D95-BAE3-4367-9-E68-7-D5-DE709-BDCA.jpg)

And what I’m part through doing at the moment..

The whole saw came back out for the sill stands

I really have been putting this off for ages and said to myself I would do it when it goes back on the jig but as I have a lot of time sat around and not doing anything.. I thought now would be the best time to do them

Using 30.5mm tube with an internal diameter of 25.5mm I went to work cutting through the sills which wasn’t fun to say the least, would be fine if the hole saw was long enough to send it through all at once but that just isn’t the case

I had to cut an “access” flap for the back hole as the void is just far to big to get the hole saw through to the other side

(https://i.ibb.co/f9KXwQp/531-AECA0-83-C8-4301-8676-94622-E90-B73-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/890BtQY/928601-D6-E595-4452-A43-F-5523-C3-CA8-C82.jpg)

This also allowed me to weld the tube to the inner support

I went to work on making the tubes and spreader plates, bending the plates to shape and cutting them at the correct angle so that the tube would fit through the plate and the sill

(https://i.ibb.co/16NXJRT/E7424-FAB-7-F6-E-40-FE-8-BD2-F5-C942548141.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/PTVZggG/B9-DF4450-E887-4411-ABAF-CCC800-C822-C2.jpg)

Then the tubes

(https://i.ibb.co/wYM6ys0/E9076898-BC0-D-48-FB-AEA4-C45-A1-BD2986-C.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/s56J0b4/4-AE97-F1-B-4-F27-4089-979-F-FE42-BC9880-ED.jpg)

The welds were ground down as the tolerance was quite a tight fit as the hole saw was 31mm

And then welded in.. not an enjoyable experience as I needed enough heat to penetrate the 3mm but not too much so that it blew through the sill

(https://i.ibb.co/x1CsdXk/7774-DA7-D-B68-E-4-BE8-824-C-737-D18326-C12.jpg)

I still need to do the passenger side, finish welding any gaps or holes around the spreader, make up the inner spreader plates and also bend the bottom of the plate up and weld it to the bottom but this will wait until it’s on the jig to prevent welding upside down


I will also be trimming them down so they don’t stick out so far once i have the stands
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: AndyBa on November 29, 2020, 09:38:40 PM
Interested in how you've cut and shut your glove box. I took the easy route and made straight enough cut so I could epoxy a cut down piece of A4 modelling plastic at the back.
There is a serious amount of time gone into this, assume it will be more than just a track car?
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on December 01, 2020, 09:22:56 PM
Interested in how you've cut and shut your glove box. I took the easy route and made straight enough cut so I could epoxy a cut down piece of A4 modelling plastic at the back.
There is a serious amount of time gone into this, assume it will be more than just a track car?

Yeah in hindsight I should of just done that.. would of been far easier and cleaner

Literally just took a dremel to it, think I took out about 30mm from the middle, and joined them back up again, used some gorilla glue to hold them together while I fibreglassed around the outside to strengthen it.

As for being solely a track car..

It’s going to be more of an all rounder really.. something to bring out in summer, “performance orientated” shows and sending it across to Germany and around the ring

My ideas and plans for the car change every other month so it’s never straight forward and if I had just planned it out to start with, it would of probably been done by now!

Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on March 08, 2021, 10:43:29 PM
Getting back into my old habits and forgetting to update the thread regularly...

Few things happened over the past 4 months, it hits home saying 4 months and then realising how much I’ve done.. or haven’t done, really need to pull my finger out

So, following on from my last post..

I noticed my rear 3/4 lexan windows had welding splatter on them, most likely from when it was on the jig so I decided to mock up the rear NACA ducts for the ventilation

Using a template from cardboard, I marked it on the window and cut it using a jig saw on low speed, the tight corners came out a bit rough but the long edges were smooth, nothing that can’t be sorted out by using a buffing wheel on a dremel or drill


(https://i.ibb.co/bWhQrhr/47-C28-CAB-7-CD3-496-D-B3-DB-CA8-CC9-BE97-FF.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/6FC0G0t/B7-DD5742-9-D72-462-D-8-B9-A-9-FD60-A28-E915.jpg)


The inline fans were then mounted to the C pillar’s, higher than the duct itself so when it rains I don’t have it pooling inside the car

(https://i.ibb.co/vZdqMTb/A4-A80-DE1-6430-4-C84-8-A0-A-4-F9-CFD12-F4-CD.jpg)

Following on from my adventures of using fibreglass, I cut up my carbon old door cards and made a backing for the dash2 pro and fibre glassed it to the speedo surround

(https://i.ibb.co/fryMKyk/A9-E79247-7-BC1-4862-90-AE-0-C104-CD4-F6-F3.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/7Gh8n1q/BF8-F8-A43-B29-A-4-BFB-A12-D-B714-E5-B4-EB41.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Ss3rNjx/D3-DADB7-D-C8-AE-4-EBD-B8-FE-1-B933-DBD9728.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/9wBDkNn/AFDA8108-510-A-4-E54-B36-B-D2314866-AA5-F.jpg)


With some extra carbon left, I also made an “insert” for the centre of the dash, blanking off the lower pocket, ash tray and heater slot and mounted my bias valve adjuster and switches for the ignition


I also ordered some gauge holders for the vents and a single din radio gauge blank, unfortunately I bought a LHD centre dash vent and was told it can be flipped around to fit a RHD.. it can, but it will fall out if you knock it forward and it sits out about 30mm so I’m having one made up by a mate who 3D prints which will be RHD


(https://i.ibb.co/yBj0z7D/88-FC01-A3-DF8-F-41-D2-AA7-F-82-C9-B3-D24-C60.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/M5NVCP3/F3-B750-D9-73-F6-4-AC0-A023-C03-A15-C9-CEDB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/LPBLHTh/B8-BB26-CD-0-D4-C-4-CBE-A03-B-C987902-B9-E0-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/9sR76xx/29446831-28-F5-45-F0-AFF9-1837-A865613-F.jpg)


Fuel system fun..

By now you’ve probably realised I can’t do anything the easy way and if you’ve followed this build from the start, you’ve probably winced at some of the ideas, methods or plans and this is no different.. consistency is key

I wanted to consolidate as much as I could of the fuel system into the boot, I didn’t want to run filters and check valves half way down the car, trying to change things out while a climbing frame is in the way isn’t fun in the slightest..

I’m running dual Bosch 044’s which have a check valve incorporated Into the banjo stub at the end, these are M12x1.5, so the outlet manifold caps are also M12x1.5, something I couldn’t swap out but I wanted to do away with the standard check valves as they make the pumps noisy on full chat..

(https://i.ibb.co/vxR6MCv/CBED1613-0778-475-B-998-D-014-A6-EFEBA3-B.jpg)

I also needed to find an adapter which went from 1/4npt to xxx as my filters are 1/4npt

so I managed to find a walbro outlet banjo stub which was M10x1.25 and m12x1.5 on the other side

(https://i.ibb.co/WkY2rj1/2-BF9-EB63-B694-4930-A539-5-D8328-D2-C7-E4.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/sbF2L28/15-E8993-E-2-C39-45-CA-91-C2-6-A25-A72-B0-D31.jpg)

So now my fuel pump system could be condensed into:

Inlet
044
044 an6 billet check valve
An6-1/4npt adapter
Sytec 8micron filter
1/4npt to m10x1.25 adapter
Walbro banjo stub
Outlet

(https://i.ibb.co/93sLyrg/B78-BEC18-123-C-46-C6-A045-AC87-F4653771.jpg)


For Christmas I also got hold of a T3 SPA exhaust manifold to move my turbo over to the centre of the engine bay for more downpipe room and so I’m not melting steering column boots

(https://i.ibb.co/10L1DSX/701-C8-C04-CFE7-4-D85-9719-FBC24-AC52-D96.jpg)

I also spent a fortune on AN fittings and Teflon lines as I needed to start routing stuff

(https://i.ibb.co/yqg62tv/EAC49-F2-C-3-D71-4-A01-B6-E0-8027-C16-C0071.jpg)

I’m thankful I bought the correct tools for them as the steel braid is an absolute nightmare, not a fan of being stabbed by it more than once, so the core separator was well worth the money

(https://i.ibb.co/S3YQ44f/E134-C764-F96-F-4-D1-C-A964-81-BFDF2-CBF63.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/3sM14SH/36-F8-A9-A7-D19-D-4-C29-B77-E-74-D92539-DFA2.jpg)



AN8 on the supply, AN6 on the return with a check valve to keep fuel in the return for a better response when cranking after the engine being shut off

(https://i.ibb.co/0KgM1Qs/1356-AF67-94-A4-4681-819-C-C10-D022-E757-A.jpg)

I ordered the pump for the gearbox oil cooler, mocal diaphragm pump, I was planning on running AN10 fittings but have downscaled to AN8 but I’ll come to that in more depth once I get it fitted and plumbed in...

(https://i.ibb.co/WgMBsKn/F33-D4-E76-8-B87-4902-B295-FF67-BA610699.jpg)

One thing which has bugged me is my pedal box position, I’m 5ft 8 and seem to have a long upper body and short legs and I was struggling after sitting inside for 30 mins, not even driving.. just sat there

So I made the decision to rip it all out.. again as I’d rather do it now than do it once it’s all together and I’ve driven it..

It took a full day to remove but I’m glad I did, I still have some grinding to do to remove all the welds fully, but it was worth it once it was all out

(https://i.ibb.co/5kkfQH5/C90122-B4-00-DB-4-B79-A198-1-B8707-D8-DF0-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/P9b6Z6X/92-B08-B3-A-7-D1-C-4-B2-E-A7-C3-42302-BC89646.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/q1bBcm5/B9-F33-F14-F0-C9-47-D5-B0-DB-394773-C4-ED28.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/M6tqvg0/9-F11-D253-4046-4611-A740-C7108-E91-D8-D0.jpg)

The problem with the whole thing is due to the main hoop X, I can’t move or tilt my seat back any more than it is, along with the bolster of the bucket seat Goulding against the door bar and being a MK2, it hasn’t got the biggest footwell, after trying multiple positions of the pedal box in the car, I came to the conclusion that it’s the wrong pedal box for the car.. you can’t mount a forward facing floor mounted pedal box with a full rollcage unless you’re a midget, so with that in mind..

(https://i.ibb.co/2d9NKq7/B27827-FA-B9-B6-4-EB0-8-B43-24886-D9-E20-B8.jpg)

I spent another fortune on a tilton 600 series reverse mounted pedal box..

(https://i.ibb.co/YLdKnY6/9145-B343-2-E6-D-42-C9-840-D-983417-FA15-DD.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Jv3twrL/57-F37-A23-0381-421-B-BF74-75-CBE6-F7-CAEB.jpg)

but it is in a different league in terms of quality and adjustability, but I don’t think my bank account will agree.. third time lucky ay



And finally, whilst I had made the jump to sort out the floor pan, I noticed whilst turning the car around that my steering column flexed like crazy, the mount I made for it just wasn’t up for the job even with 6J wheels and ditch finders, nevermind some wide wheels with sticky tyres so I ripped it all out and started again..

It needed to be removable to be able to pull the dash out, I toyed with the idea of a corsa C EPAS system but after hearing some views on the feedback, especially some posts from the residential nige (pinderwagen) on some Facebook pages, I opted to ditch that idea and will keep the standard column.. I’d love to be able to
Make my own steering column, but I don’t have access to a lathe to be able to mill down the tubes and bearing cups.

What I done was remove the OEM bracket, from the steering column then use some 38.1mm roll cage joiners and some 38.1mm CDS, cutting them down with the new toy and notching them with the tube notcher

(https://i.ibb.co/3W0jQfG/86-B699-E3-3-F84-4187-A2-D1-BC24-F54-D9-B06.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Msb4Njn/7426-B522-CC30-4-BD1-ACDD-82-E2-C10951-ED.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/9pWFz2Q/DD4-BB09-F-7898-41-C3-B630-5-D021-FF636-B2.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/r3ghDfy/4-B568632-72-C4-4-AE8-B6-C9-FC5-CFA325745.jpg)


And this is the result, removable, absolutely solid with no flex...

(https://i.ibb.co/hMLksMy/E86-DB069-0930-4806-8-A89-B4-AFEC5-F1886.jpg)

I’ll make a lower bracket soon once I get another joiner

And that’s it for the moment!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: Eddypeck on March 09, 2021, 09:08:11 AM
Serious amount of work going into this. Very impressive.
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L90E on March 09, 2021, 09:47:12 AM
A different level of build and ability.... I'd even struggle with taking photo's like those as I'm working.
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: AndyBa on March 09, 2021, 08:29:00 PM
Yes, some serious work being done.
I like the industrial aircon you're fitting, makes my install look a bit too subtle  :D
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on March 09, 2021, 10:35:39 PM
A different level of build and ability.... I'd even struggle with taking photo's like those as I'm working.

Yes, some serious work being done.
I like the industrial aircon you're fitting, makes my install look a bit too subtle  :D

Serious amount of work going into this. Very impressive.

Cheers guys, should have my other AN fittings tomorrow so will update again soon!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on April 05, 2021, 01:49:18 AM
So following on from the last post I had the last bull buy of AN fittings arrive, this was mostly for the gearbox oil cooler and the brake lines

(https://i.ibb.co/sbVVcNp/50-E9-B5-E0-2-D12-429-A-A5-F2-046-C2612-EBF7.jpg)

So starting from the top..

I took the time to start building the Brake reservoir lines, I must admit that AN4 is a lot harder to work with than AN6 just due to how fiddly it is, not looking forward to doing the whole pressurised side of the brake system in AN3

(https://i.ibb.co/XjrJw2h/03163-A99-2-E37-4-E75-BA68-00-D2-D1-C2098-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/kqPyj9n/9-D8-B238-F-65-CC-438-F-8-FCA-B887-C790-A4-C7.jpg)

Onto the pedal box, so it turns out my wilwood master cylinders are too long for the false floor to go on top of them, meaning I’m having to buy tilton 75 master cylinders instead, more money thrown at things I already have..

I also opted to buy this mounting plate for it, after cocking it up twice before and how much effort it took me each time to make and replace, I’d rather just save my time (and added weight on the car) and buy a CNC’d aluminium bracket with all of the holes pre drilled and tapped for adjusting it forward and back..

(https://i.ibb.co/wMTL38H/B386-B2-A6-9-D15-4238-84-B1-6-DBF2-BECA85-B.jpg)

the only problem is that my floorpan isn’t completely flat so I had to create yet another little platform for it to sit on, this time I made sure I did everything in the correct order this time..



Started off with some 2mm steel sheet, cut so that it was slightly bigger than the pedal box

(https://i.ibb.co/SXJZPRR/8-EF1-DFD9-DD66-497-C-B691-4360-AD1-F3-ED4.jpg)


Next was to mark out a grid which was 25mm squared as im using a 25mm hole saw and dimple die, I wanted to make sure it was all evenly spaced

(https://i.ibb.co/gZ9YZTh/79-C834-DF-647-B-40-AC-B8-A7-BA9067471968.jpg)

Into the press to press the dimples

(https://i.ibb.co/r5rBJyP/512-C3-B26-DD3-E-4151-93-BA-81499-C00-CB16.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/QnPxp59/10-C8-C8-D0-0-CBA-489-E-86-FE-9-D8591-CFD5-D4.jpg)

Then as my floor isn’t flat, I used a profile gauge to get the correct shape

(https://i.ibb.co/YD7yGBp/25-DED730-5-ABE-4548-8-E64-E0215040-D88-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/JnSgCPd/67-A3-DFC4-F65-E-44-FC-BF48-453-D47-E02296.jpg)

Welded together with M8 weld nuts on the back

(https://i.ibb.co/S6Y20tw/20269-D7-E-026-A-4-C08-B269-0703-FA573-C65.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/bW8rSm5/1-C2-C2-D5-A-6-C4-C-42-D5-8-C1-E-5-A56-AD6659-B9.jpg)

Test fit

(https://i.ibb.co/WyB3n7j/4-DF17-E5-C-30-AE-4941-925-F-F1-E94-F29-E766.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SnVxNHG)

And welded in..

(https://i.ibb.co/MR7G2Q3/D4-BF54-EB-8-F2-C-411-D-AFB6-D7-EF4-C636645.jpg)



And the finished product

(https://i.ibb.co/GQjCRtk/831-A25-C9-0-CE3-4593-8-A77-6-A23520-F1637.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/wsvVT1y/39-CB89-D7-9-C98-4016-9-FD3-282-FEC6735-F9.jpg)

Moving away from the brakes and because I had all of the AN fittings for it, I made a start on the gearbox oil system

Starting with the pump, I’ve picked a mocal diaphragm pump due to it being self priming above the fluid, which really helps when it comes to finding a place to stash it on a compact engine bay, the draw back of the diaphragm pump is it’s more delicate than a gear driven pump.. the fluid needs to be over 72 degrees before it can pump, otherwise it risks tearing the diaphragm, secondly contamination or shrapnel from the unfiltered gearbox can cause havoc with the pump so there took a fair amount of thought on what I needed to add and in what order..

I decided to use the existing fill and drain holes for the pick up and return of the cooler, knowing that clearance was vital on the drain, I bought 2 M24x1.5 sump plugs and threw them at a lathe. One was turned down to 5.5mm while the other was left at its normal height. Both were then drilled out to 10.5mm and an M12x1.5 tap was ran through them so I could fit a banjo bolt to keep it as tight as possible to the bottom of the gearbox.

(https://i.ibb.co/1R9By0t/7-CFDD708-606-F-400-B-BCE5-DF6165658-C2-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/pz7ds7z/D3-E70-E16-04-B6-457-E-9-FA6-DA45-F0938-B99.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/cvP4BTx/F48-FA96-E-256-B-405-C-BF25-1-B7-B6-E26245-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/NYGmWs6/1327728-F-EB9-F-4-BFC-A3-A9-5-E7899913214.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/F8nks8h/881-F4244-EA50-48-B0-A0-C7-D28-FD1-CCC7-B4.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/P4RZjSH/BBB3-C541-E0-B1-495-F-859-A-D650-AAE90-E59.jpg)

So the order I decided was

-banjo
-1/8npt sensor adapter (closest to the gearbox so it would read the correct temp to begin pumping)
-AN8 240 micron filter with a magnetic ring to pick up any shrapnel
-pump
-oil cooler
-check valve (minimum operating pressure of 2PSI to keep the oil cooler full to prevent drain back and over filling of the gearbox)
-return

(https://i.ibb.co/2ZBhZz2/AE34-D9-A9-2-F2-B-4-D13-9047-6-F68-A5-B3-A981.jpg)

I also made up a bracket for the pump to be welded onto the chassis leg

Starting with some 1.5mm

Marked to size

(https://i.ibb.co/Wyph2n1/F0-E509-AE-B429-4409-ABE6-E946-C02-CB378.jpg)

Cut, drilled and dimple died

(https://i.ibb.co/jGQmCZ8/3-F74-BDD4-6539-472-C-BF58-7455-E7-CD0-C90.jpg)

Legs made up and welded together

(https://i.ibb.co/fY9cH2B/E1991368-07-C5-4-AA1-AA6-D-89-A05-B9-AA514.jpg)

And finally in situ, not the prettiest welds but it was difficult to try and get the 1.5mm to weld to the chassis leg without blowing a**holes out of it

(https://i.ibb.co/0qMxr4m/85122-D27-159-F-417-C-9-BFA-9677242-AACBF.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/6yR59b8/7-AEBBCC1-20-C9-438-D-B0-CF-4-F0717-B54148.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/chsN37Q/D5-BE12-B2-8227-4105-84-F1-995-BB2-D76629.jpg)

During this process I decided to get some metal in my eyeball, I forgot to apply my safety squint when cutting metal for the bracket. After having rust in my eye before and having to have it flicked out with a needle and then the rust ring burred out.. I thought I would try and remove it myself by placing the magnet out of a fishing magnet in a small bag, covering it in saline and press it close up to my eye, almost touching..

(https://i.ibb.co/rcr9wqH/AE42-F2-CB-3-ECE-447-A-BE9-F-16-A405178220.jpg)

After a few passes my eye felt instantly relieved and it was out

Improvise, adapt and overcome

I also finished off the sill stands for the front, using some 3mm plate for the spreader plate inside..

I ran a hole saw through it and cracked up the amps on the welder and went at it

Buuut I forgot to take photos..

Another small job I hacked away at was making a centre bracket for the dash, because I haven’t got the factory heater box or most of the interior, I had a lot of flex in the dash where the heater box would fix to the dash and then fix to the bulkhead..

Drilling holes in either side of the dash where the metal shell is, i then cut down to sections of 15mmx15mm box section and drilled and sent in an M6 rivnut, tightening the brackets to the dash, i braced them together with some more box section, then it was a case of notching the top of the tube which would be welded to the dash bar and then tacking it in place to the bracket I had already made.. some more bracing and it was finished

Bit of 15x15mm box section and some riv nuts



(https://i.ibb.co/RhgFdmW/8-ED52942-A2-C6-4-A85-B22-F-7-C25-ACB51-C71.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/LJTsXdR/B8-A31-EAC-16-C7-4-CFF-AD88-6781-CD4-E8-E24.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/5kwfWFp/29584431-828-E-4-B28-A055-AD3-C6-AFF5-D8-F.jpg)


And that’s it! All together and no trip to the eye hospital for me





Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: AndyBa on April 05, 2021, 08:08:26 AM
Good stuff.
Take extra care with your eyes. About 8 years ago I had a macular hemorrhage in my left eye whilst surfing ebay (you know it's bad for you!). I lost my central vision for about 10 weeks. Doc said I should be able to drive but I was walking into things so stopped. Luckily my eyesight returned but now have an annoying "floatie".
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on April 05, 2021, 03:08:56 PM
Good stuff.
Take extra care with your eyes. About 8 years ago I had a macular hemorrhage in my left eye whilst surfing ebay (you know it's bad for you!). I lost my central vision for about 10 weeks. Doc said I should be able to drive but I was walking into things so stopped. Luckily my eyesight returned but now have an annoying "floatie".


That sounds pretty rough, I’ll take care in the future when on eBay!

I did actually have a pair of safety glasses on both times, but they weren't wide enough I suppose.. got some wrap arounds now so hopefully that’s the end of that
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on May 24, 2021, 05:56:10 PM

So really it’s been parts hoarding since the last update, fitting things that I can as I go..

I managed to get hold of a set of 3 tilton 76 master cylinders, two 0.75 and one 0.70, I have done the basic maths of what Bore size I need for the estimated weight, piston size and pad contact area and with a bias valve for the rear brakes, the sizes should work, if they don’t and the brakes have too much travel I’ll have to swap them around or replace them, but 0.75 is a good place to start..

(https://i.ibb.co/9pZ6yjv/5216-B82-D-F2-A2-480-E-9-F68-C194-CBAE3-D51.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/5FqtkXw/E7-C31-C2-D-67-C0-44-DC-9127-E0-C2-D361-FAD4.jpg)

As there is minimal room under the false floor, I fitted some APS inlet and outlet fittings which had already been worked out to fit under the APS false floor with tilton master cylinders so I wasn’t going to spend loads of money on different fittings until I worked out what fit with the least amount of trouble.. meaning the brake lines from the reservoir bulkhead fittings to the master cylinders could be made up

(https://i.ibb.co/cDXH651/F39-B1-AB3-0-CF7-4-E18-A26-F-DE966-B6-A766-C.jpg)

I pulled the trigger on a wilwood hydraulic handbrake as I really wasn’t fond of the one I had, I need to stop buying things which are cheaper and not what I want just because I feel it’ll get the build done faster..

Alongside is the tilton bias valve I also snapped up cheap with two M10-AN3 fittings

(https://i.ibb.co/Qv6qN1w/AD886038-E208-4987-A45-A-65-DBACD30653.jpg)

I also got hold of an AEM V3 meth kit off of eBay for a steal, although I don’t need it yet, it was too cheap to pass up on and had minimal use.. I also need to find out where and how I’m mounting everything before I start to paint it, if I need to do some welds for a bracket or drill holes, I want to do that before I paint it..

(https://i.ibb.co/khSfN5g/F830-EC42-51-D3-40-C7-99-A7-CC23-ED6-F3-B04.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/gPVYbrH/7-B5-AA909-8-AFB-42-BF-ACF6-72-FACA41-A169.jpg)

As I want to get all of the welding and fabrication out of the way, I bought the heater/demister for the inside. I did want to try and stay away from a water based heater to prevent more things going through the bulkhead, but after a trawl of reviews it seemed that the small 3.5kw electric ones wouldn’t be sufficient, so I went for the 5KW midi heater from T7 designs, weighing in at 2.8kg with a 3 speed fan..

(https://i.ibb.co/n10wdvC/294353-D0-7899-4689-9-A14-DB3-E80-BCBCB8.jpg)

Mounting it so it would take up the least amount of room was crucial, I didn’t want to mount it to the bulkhead and then later on down the line I find that I need to mount something like the fuse box or ECU there..


box section and riv nuts came to the rescue again.. 15x15mm with a 1.5mm wall so it would be strong enough but not adding the weight I’ve saved from ditching the OEM system

(https://i.ibb.co/GtmnrMJ/6905531-D-ACB0-4-BB9-8124-32800-B6-CB0-C3.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/qgHFQtG/C52-FF398-49-B7-4-A88-97-A2-F914-C467011-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/FmnY9PN/18-C6303-A-1-D9-A-406-A-87-E0-03377-B89-E400.jpg)

It sits perfectly upside down on the dash brackets with the water outlets pointing down close to the bulkhead which will fit to a bulkhead pass through once I sort out the engine bay coolant system

(https://i.ibb.co/NCZ4vGJ/39-B923-EA-240-B-44-CD-80-FE-8-E953-EA955-E0.jpg)

As the dash was out, i started on the aluminium passenger foot plate as the floor isn’t completely flat and at an angle, I needed a mount for it to level it out and to raise it as in planing on having the fuse boxes underneath so they aren’t in the way..

Some 12mm tube and some small steel brackets were used as the bottom of the foot plate is folded so there is a lip which prevented me using anything else

(https://i.ibb.co/vPkfPcF/7-E115752-E124-4-F2-E-990-B-AB6-AA1-EC96-ED.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/NnxGdbH/F9342-B28-E16-F-44-FF-9-DF7-115-A4-D052116.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/6JX2JGX/2557-FA37-2812-4-B24-99-B8-DC551-FAD9-A20.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/5jt3Fnk/FAAC492-A-E07-E-4-F74-8-F77-4-B84-E8-BAF82-D.jpg)
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on August 01, 2021, 11:08:00 PM

*insert generic excuse of not keeping forum thread up to date*

Soo..

I have a real bad tendency of finishing things 90% of the way.. for instance, my dashboard..

The flocked corrado dash needed to go, it didn’t line up correctly as it was twisted, none of the plastics sat correctly and I had cut too much out of it to fit my cage properly..

So after a few weeks of trawling eBay and Facebook groups, I managed to get hold of a black dash which hadn’t had the whole interior hacked out of it or wasn’t crumbling away..

So same steps as before, but less of a measure by eye and cut three times attitude..

Lip removed and brackets moved back about an inch..

(https://i.ibb.co/256dyN0/0-C5-E4-F34-35-B1-4036-B882-BEF45-A6-F13-FE.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/3fZqVPQ/1-A65635-C-4451-4-A09-A9-CA-BE5-CFFC76-B29.jpg)

Holes cut for the Door bars..

(https://i.ibb.co/VgsdcYF/52-F9-B75-D-DA10-4-A31-9-E8-A-9-C832-DCB974-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/X76mFs7/C599-DBD6-1-FCB-47-A7-9471-1-E5-D65370-EC6.jpg)


And for the A pillars..

(https://i.ibb.co/txc6TNJ/F273-FAE0-FAC2-43-A3-A097-4847-BEC5-F95-D.jpg)

And she’s in!

(https://i.ibb.co/X2b2jWW/0279-A174-0-F86-4-D1-F-B974-BB9-E1-BD05-B13.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Mn6gWBM/ECC63-F8-A-2440-4199-AC86-355-E9-FA34872.jpg)


The shifter doesn’t rear against the bottom of the dash anymore


(https://i.ibb.co/bWPVBBB/F5-F88384-3-BA2-45-BF-8-A45-764-A2-D5-C00-AF.jpg)

I also had a mate redesign the air vent gauge holder from LHD (sticking out about 738373 mm) to flush with the dash

(https://i.ibb.co/Gk59370/3-ACF2-D5-B-1-D2-B-4-D29-9895-385202465-BFB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q9rCFBd)

You can see how close the shifter was to the bottom of the old dash in the picture above

A few little jobs here and there also checked off..

Filler funnel for the fuel cell in the window

(https://i.ibb.co/8XV5kWh/260-A91-F2-6329-4-DF5-890-A-0301787-CCD48.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/0q8Nsq3/1-C93-AF1-A-6527-4881-AB17-044-C05-B56051.jpg)

Prop shaft bearing brackets made up but didn’t get a photo of them mounted..

(https://i.ibb.co/PYcvm5C/71-DC5-E39-AFEF-4-FCF-8-CF7-788-A0-A8082-B4.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/8c3z5rR/9-BB6-E87-E-9-EFA-4-B4-E-8793-6-F0-C91632619.jpg)

Due to spending money on the daily to get it up to scratch to sell, it’s been a dangerous time for the MK2 as boredom, and an angle grinder isn’t the best combination and hindsight is a beautiful thing..

Ever since I owned the car, the panel lines on the rear (where the rear 1/4’s meet the rear valance) had been filled over, the filler had cracked and rust had been appearing through the crack after washing the car.. so when I had built the car the first time, I wanted it sorted.. I didn’t mind if the lines were filled in, just that the rust was gone.. so I managed to get hold of a NOS passenger side light cluster off of eBay.de, I gave this to the guys who were meant to be doing the bodywork and paint but I was handed it back as they had “sorted it” so I sold the panel a few months after.. big mistake as “sorted it” wasn’t the case as I had found out when I span the golf around to work on the drivers side.. unfortunately I knocked the rear quarter and off came a good chunk of filler followed by rust.. again

The following pictures show what I found


(https://i.ibb.co/NKpJV8R/EF4131-C6-3-C62-4-C99-B931-BE6-DC41-FFAAB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/kB3xm7B/D11039-B9-D564-4-D12-9697-8355-BA341-B31.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/0cSC5ck/29-CD5-ACF-6028-4-A9-B-8-EA4-C07638-CEE614.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/hcjsb8V/6-B1-B307-A-166-E-403-D-ABEA-C15-C8-EA226-FD.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/bXjSzkk/AB63-AB8-E-8-C31-47-AB-A62-D-7984-F937-FE30.jpg)

So a pattern rear valance was ordered and a repair cut for the passenger light cluster was bought as there was no saving the surround without the rust returning again..

Due to the wait time on the valance I got even more bored and it became far more dangerous

This is where things started to get a bit silly..

I have had a thing for tubbed arches for a while now.. I genuinely don’t know why.. and with the potential of maybe running wide 17’s, I thought to myself.. “Might as well just send it now before it’s too late and realise the wheels will scrub the inner arches” and that’s exactly what I did.. que the angle grinder spinning up

I don’t really know what the thought process was to start with was.. I just started cutting out the plates on top of the chassis legs then followed the chassis leg line and started marking it out and started cutting..

(https://i.ibb.co/ZxwnpMZ/95-EB7-C11-BF3-C-418-A-96-A2-02-C312-C78-F76.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/9hpyYFY/64-A16-F87-E9-E4-4-D4-B-A806-66-E47-A2533-C6.jpg)

I cut out the shape of the arch tub from 1.5mm steel.. I can’t even remember the measurements.. maybe 300mm? It rings a bell..

(https://i.ibb.co/hmqS1rD/E6-ED2-DC4-3-B6-F-4-EF5-884-C-2-A95-A75-D2-FB3.jpg)

Then it was the case of tacking it in place, measuring how much I would need for the filler plate on top, contouring the turret to the filler plate and cutting the inner arch out..

(https://i.ibb.co/4428Sq5/CDDB7806-6-B87-4-C3-D-B9-A9-0-E2-B2-E3-F1024.jpg)

Bending the filler plate and tacking as I went

(https://i.ibb.co/3rc6J0T/90-D46-DB3-E476-4-E9-D-8-E1-A-2-B3-BBF5-A50-BC.jpg)

And then trying to weld it to the inner arch, blowing more holes than I was filling in

(https://i.ibb.co/CsjHy30/0119-D9-D8-16-D4-490-B-9296-371-E70-FE2977.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/wLQVgb7/AED91-E41-410-E-4-D15-9-B97-0-BDA41-DBDBBD.jpg)

Followed by making a jigsaw out of the chassis leg plates

(https://i.ibb.co/HYzWF1C/B9982-AAE-78-EF-40-BB-89-D4-A3-B17-DA87393.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/RSf23j3/9-F0-C1-B40-40-F9-49-F0-9-D12-15-C6-F145-F373.jpg)

And the finished product

(https://i.ibb.co/H2P2kpL/DC7-C07-C3-AA06-4-FCA-B6-D7-C2837-EC6-F257.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/n6qv2f8/4573655-E-4-D09-4-B60-8-F44-41013-BD868-BE.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/XbP896J/CFA518-AA-883-B-48-B1-9-A90-9794142-D24-E0.jpg)

It went a lot smoother than I thought it would.. that was a red flag as when I went to start on the other side.. it wasn’t as smooth because I uncovered something I’m not exactly proud of..

Rewind a few pages back, when I was painting the underside (what a waste that was🥲) I had discovered my drivers side suspension turret had rotten where the turret and inner wheel arch met.

I should of got a repair panel and replaced the whole thing but I didn’t know how to weld then.. so I wire brushed it back and filled it full of POR15.. (IF YOU ARE READING THIS AND ARE IN THE SAME POSITION I WAS, GET SOMEONE TO WELD IT FOR YOU, DO NOT HIDE IT WITH PAINT)

It was all uncovered again when I chopped into the turret for the tub.. it was really really bad and I couldn’t leave it.. so another chassis cut bought and I went into it with the grinder again..

(https://i.ibb.co/YXmpdZC/6-DA4701-E-9-CC8-4-D6-A-84-E3-B0-FA8-CAA4979.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/NTs6YCg/39-B4-FD41-E62-A-466-C-8-E77-37-C4-ACE979-CD.jpg)

The chassis cut

(https://i.ibb.co/z4XwCtn/FD26-FBB2-65-DE-4-DBC-B4-B9-7-A243039-E1-E7.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/HHXjyB2/ABAC1-B70-B5-C5-4-FB0-A65-F-61-B85-E11-D378.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/TTc8y45/70-B8-D552-00-CF-413-F-B00-F-CCC8-E4-AC55-EB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/85rtRZ6/8-E655-A39-41-A8-4-B77-8-FC2-EAFB44-EF2078.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/DLHzrsK/0-DE3-D4-A5-0-FF4-4463-8-CA5-0322-A7-BAE169.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/dKL7f5B/8-FA5-C22-A-DF7-B-4163-AA55-AB6-AB9-EE0228.jpg)

It wasn’t easy or enjoyable to say the least

I still wouldn’t say im proud of it either, but it’s rust free metal and a lot better than it ever was..

So onwards with the drivers side tub, same process as before!


As I’ve been focusing on the suspension turrets, I also wanted to have adjustable camber and caster via the top mounts.. in come these OBP E36 adjustable top mounts..

I could of just cut the top of the turret out with a hole saw but I wanted  to raise my front turrets to increase suspension travel even with the car lowered.. so, after measuring the amount of adjustment the top mounts needed.. I spent about a month trying to find steel tube with a thickness of 3-4mm and a minimum internal diameter of 155mm and a maximum of 178mm.. I cannot tell you how many hours I had put into searching, messaging or calling up places only to have no luck..

I was left with either- buying some 177mm billet and having it hollowed out using a lathe.. = ££££

Raising the whole turret up by cutting the whole top off = bonnet fitment issues

Or using some 4mm steel plate, a 177mm hole saw and some 40mm x 3mm flat bar.. making my own.. which is exactly what I did


I had some 4mm steel plate sitting around so that was the top sorted

£17.59 later I had myself a 177mm hole saw

A phone call to the local metal suppliers to enquire about 2 x 1m lengths of 40mm x 3mm only to be told “it’s 3-5 working days to have it cut, or you can come and buy 6.1m today” 6.1m won’t fit in my car so the battery grinder rode shotgun and it was cut up off just outside of their car park to fit in my car

Took a 76mm hole saw to some steel to make a centre to tack to the suspension turret

(https://i.ibb.co/dKVQYq4/6054-A72-D-5017-43-FA-B692-91-E21074-AAC3.jpg)

Then cut the 177mm hole out of the top of the turret

(https://i.ibb.co/QKMfgCM/D74-D8545-E42-A-4-D3-E-B2-EC-85-CBDAB31-D71.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/wJdzJQg/FA408-EF9-E8-EC-44-A2-8-DA4-817-EBB3-F8-FF7.jpg)


I genuinely had alot of sympathy for the beater drill after cutting 2 lots of 7” holes out of 4mm steel and the suspension turrets.. it definitely earned its money today..

(https://i.ibb.co/gZBNz9x/0-A643-C9-E-E200-4-FC1-8-C15-9826-BB17824-D.jpg)

The flat bar was bent and tacked as I went around, making sure it wasn’t spiralling as i went..

(https://i.ibb.co/8gpfRSG/908884-E3-5629-452-D-B0-B4-D66-A86-ED2-A4-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/kMGTBLw/B60-ADB99-315-D-4550-8408-728-EA6-F276-AC.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/VT5G6y0/AA88-E751-473-C-4-C81-BD81-7-D9-A2-E28-BC46.jpg)


Welder turned up to “full send”

(https://i.ibb.co/7gwK4d2/305-CAEE5-A58-A-4014-937-B-D6-F18-FF2-BC23.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/mCYHVgJ/0-E17-AA46-1-AD3-4-C03-AA85-91-C86-E6-CF70-F.jpg)

And the “finished product” if I didn’t run out of mig wire…. at 17:10 on a Friday night…..

(https://i.ibb.co/smb6PHJ/B381-D8-F2-2-E52-4-DEC-ABAC-38-EEB88331-E2.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/3yhjqhg/051-B85-CB-B2-BF-48-DD-A306-AEBDE8691-A54.jpg)

Top mount fitted and put into position!

(https://i.ibb.co/GVpZvJC/5-A0-C5296-94-CF-48-A1-9-A3-D-8-B418-A3-FDD67.jpg)

Trip to tool station the next day to pick up 5kg of wire.. only place that was open on a Saturday which sold wire, next time round I’ll be more prepared and order 17kg before it runs out.. but wire is wire and it meant I could finish welding and start on the other turret riser

(https://i.ibb.co/mXM7zRD/BF677-A60-FC15-4169-AD9-F-D0-D1-EAF6-B964.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/DL3MZVp/A74-E76-FF-D926-4-CC9-8781-71831-C321-CA8.jpg)


I do need the cut out some of the top plate so I can fully adjust the camber screws but that can wait until my next run of days off


(https://i.ibb.co/L1MsqQ0/320-CFF22-E45-E-440-A-BDBF-FF000315-D52-A.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/TYFDrGz/D31-CF00-F-2759-495-A-B3-E1-B35727167269.jpg)











Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L90E on August 02, 2021, 09:57:19 AM
Between you and Sam Stirrup our 2Mbps connection can't cope!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 13, 2022, 03:21:41 PM
Okay so an update..

To cut a long story short, the cars gone..

Not what I wanted to do at all but I pretty much had no choice.. after splitting the rear end apart I found that I had to literally take out the whole boot floor again and start again with next to no reference points as where I had welded the boot floor, on the inside and out, there was a lot of rust, as I had completely welded the panels together, it was a nightmare to try and remake the panels..

The chassis was twisted, the sills wernt welded properly (small tacks ground back every 5” or so, the rear arches had been lap welded in and behind the panel rust had started to form, this would mean I’d need to cut the panels out perfectly, try and repair the original metalwork then weld in replacements

The floor pans which I made were also butt welded to unprepared metal, welded inside and out which would cause more headaches down the road as they rot..

All in all it was going to be easier and cheaper to get a new shell..

8 years down the drain? Maybe… I’m more annoyed because of the connection I’ve had with the car, but it was too far gone too save it.. but it’s not gone to waste.. the skills and knowledge I gained on the shell will mean that I can learn from my mistakes and the next shell will be better.. alot better
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: L14M on July 13, 2022, 05:09:05 PM
A fresh start

I have a thing about buying MK2’s for £500..

So let’s get this updated, quick fast and in a hurry.. I’m not going to go over the obvious in depth as the photos speak for themselves, I’ll be updating this in sections so here we go..


I was after a pretty solid shell, I had some prerequisites.. no rusted out rear turrets, 3 door, no previous welding work and I’d only accept rust if it was on panels which I could replace..


So shell was stripped, and put up on the jig (which I had modified to be on casters so I could move it around - something I didn’t realise I needed to have when working on the old shell

(https://i.ibb.co/kgMDVvq/20-A74616-F1-D3-4254-8-FB5-9-F00-A5-DD72-A4.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/HtHbgt2/56-D075-B5-62-F6-469-F-A46-E-B505-ACAC8-FBD.jpg)

It was only after I started to take out windows, take off trims and really get into it when I realised the shell wasn’t as good as I thought it was.. but when you buy a Mk2 for £500, you aren’t going to get one which is a minter

(https://i.ibb.co/qdNjK75/A4-CC84-C2-3796-40-F8-B39-C-33-BC8225-A811.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/JWLNhzg/5-DA6-F139-49-A4-4-AF1-B63-D-6491-D9-DB2740.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/dbDH8SY/BBB4-ACF7-5685-45-D0-B7-D0-85-C4-C738-EF10.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/TkfmkQN/64-ABEB78-3-C54-4-FE2-B15-B-A4-B4-D16-F867-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/SNMWVR5/3-B3478-B1-C45-B-4-EBE-9927-EFB7-EA3-D1-ED6.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/G2b5vH3/B3865701-3-EF1-417-E-8-D98-D1494-C14-C061.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/HVdXGcn/0242102-C-0-D4-A-4-C7-D-9-D9-C-CA9-BDC0-AFFE1.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/LpN1XSC/6-DAE7759-4-FF0-4-CE4-AE36-9-A9-EEF3-FDF72.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/ccmp6Pb/B68-D7-ECD-919-F-4903-B00-B-6-F02-CF9-D28-D0.jpg)


So I got to work stripping the underseal.. again

(https://i.ibb.co/dr2VLFH/46456-AC7-A8-E2-4-A27-8377-F420022-ACCCA.jpg)

Spare wheel well cut out, this time I’m not replacing the whole floor, just playing over the wheel well

(https://i.ibb.co/6chPX6v/CB58729-D-F019-4-A62-A54-C-328-BF3-BE016-B.jpg)

The actual floor pans aren’t that bad, but if I’ve learnt anything, it’s that panel gaps, seams and cavities are usually rotten out or hiding something nasty, so everything is coming off..

I’m Priming everything as I’m going using either UPOL zinc weld through primer or UPOL zinc182

The floorpan was an absolute pig to remove, it was removed using 1x dormer 8mm spot weld drill bit, a two speed drill on the slowest setting, and some cutting/drilling fluid, I don’t even want to count how many spot welds I had drilled out..

(https://i.ibb.co/m6y720S/8-B661118-E0-E0-4202-95-A7-A960-E584-B5-D5.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/KFT40ZH/D65-E728-F-59-B3-480-E-871-C-7-DCDE0-B157-E1.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/dgnP6Wp/B75-BADA3-206-A-46-D8-92-D5-55832-D15-E997.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/YpLcvNH/EE9149-B5-7-BBA-48-F2-8730-1-C694837-CEA4.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/cr9GhF6/A2960-CEE-1440-4-BB7-BD17-18-F1-B93-B4-D41.jpg)

The problem I faced was getting pattern parts, which are poorly stamped, oversized and in some places.. undersized, to fit as OEM as possible, anyone who’s used klokk panels will tell you, they’re appalling.. couple that with the fact everything you want to use as a reference point is slightly distorted or out of shape from splitting the panels.. its a challenge, but I promised myself I wouldn’t rush this build, I’d do it properly this time

(https://i.ibb.co/6Ns5GRD/73-F0287-E-26-CD-4-AA9-A364-A56614922-E17.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/54ftSCr/486-BA1-A4-F77-B-47-BE-8772-F8-CA2251687-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/NCYYM2T/8-DFFE2-AD-FEEB-461-F-A5-E5-9-EC5-F50-E306-C.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/vhRxM9D/C5-CA1-F6-C-E76-A-4-FEA-AD87-0-BB2339-D88-BA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MfQDJd9)

(https://i.ibb.co/qCm0vDX/87553-DD0-ED92-431-B-9012-32-A9-A3-F6-B8-BD.jpg)

The inner channel was removed from the chassis rail, I’ve got no use for this as I’m not having any fuel lines run through it, notice what I said about things being a rust trap…

(https://i.ibb.co/TKxLnmY/6-FEA42-AA-BAA8-45-C0-97-BE-B0-F20503-D245.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/jM3xvFw/2216-DC4-F-0-B53-4527-8160-7-DF4-FA931-FC3.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/NSnY9dN/90-E83270-F2-C3-4222-A84-D-778-D86-C3-A654.jpg)

Another little surprise for me was that the subframe captive nut was cross threaded, I attempted to run a tap up into it but it appears someone had got the thread started and then decided to smack it with a hammer so as I tapped it, the tap just cut a new thread through the whole nut.. got onto a company to make me up some new open top hats and this was welded in

(https://i.ibb.co/1Qfw2Tp/69-B25198-0-A62-4-AF3-9004-A8-AB6-DAC85-AA.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/xmgBBpj/21104222-07-E9-4901-B122-E861-A14-F886-A.jpg)


As all of the panels are interlaced, the front chassis leg panels were drilled out ready for the replacements, when I said I’m replacing everything, I literally mean it..

(https://i.ibb.co/g6P1HkB/E9393745-9870-4902-9-B12-921-BDA689-B51.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/swL89R7/C3-CB714-A-9-F8-D-4-E22-80-AE-DB718-D972-F01.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/y0SWGzk/567-E43-D2-6171-4-D58-9-ED4-5-B043-E5-C3-C61.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/pfTN2Mt/49-BEA8-BA-BC00-49-B2-B239-2-B27-B41594-B8.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/jTtsyRC/86-F3-D114-A345-4110-8289-A5-F0658646-AF.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/YddTHHD/9-A6-DF408-26-F2-48-F9-8-A78-E3-DF457-E3-C04.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/KhwsPd4/5-C701-DA3-9-BD3-4164-91-AA-CAABD2-F73-C15.jpg)

More proof of panels hiding rot.. front tow bracket and inner wing bracket

(https://i.ibb.co/d060SSg/1-F5-FB85-E-88-E4-49-AC-B509-153-BBE7-A89-F6.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/JWLLQYB/1-E6-FF4-C5-401-F-4946-BB07-BABAD85-FB45-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/DG00tzP/329575-D8-C412-43-CC-A87-D-6-B9882-CFAA65.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Bz6LDVM/D9203-E67-6-DAD-401-D-88-EE-CD7-A37-ADB14-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/DtzKTs4/A4-BBD192-6676-478-A-9-EE1-8-F0917-E716-DE.jpg)


Exhaust hangers removed.. not needed

(https://i.ibb.co/TvGpzBf/05-AC2-DB4-22-DE-48-B7-92-F2-8-DE1400-B99-DD.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/N6PbJxg/0-D4-F2-D9-B-1-FC4-4-AD7-8-CC7-F34-C1522-BBCF.jpg)

Fuel pump bracket threads.. not needed

(https://i.ibb.co/x6sJWdL/61-C68-A06-DFAF-4-C8-C-B3-F7-97064078-EAE9.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/L18N3fd/082803-A8-8-E39-4-B46-A0-CF-45-E64-EB24047.jpg)

The floorpan and jacking point panel was prepared and 8mm holes along the seams to plug weld them in, coated with weld through primer to stop them rusting between the seams

(https://i.ibb.co/txjCdtJ/2966345-B-335-D-4-B5-D-8-A21-DC9-A498-DFC29.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/B2BcGpm/08804292-BE54-482-A-97-CB-F01557-B71-BE1.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/hyMHz8S/9-E2-B1-BEB-A813-42-AE-8617-0-D454102-B029.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/dPrXHHV/DEB92-E2-A-0-D15-4-E44-88-B5-EE1-A67-C71-D9-F.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/FWf2QC0/9-FFB699-C-6-B03-40-B2-AF76-F99-F0-F0-ADB30.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/QYDCdLC/F16-F5-F9-E-4-D7-B-41-AA-8-F42-C066-A2-ECCE26.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/tCbfn8y/A3-B9-FC29-4-A52-48-D3-858-A-F2-DBCA9-E74-B2.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/PQbMRsC/6564-C051-7309-487-E-8-AD9-E031601-FEFEF.jpg)

The sill was then cut out and repairs made to the rear of the sill and chassis leg, as there aren’t any replacement panels, this all had to be made from 1.2mm sheet metal

(https://i.ibb.co/RBc3qcP/642002-F5-54-D5-4-D3-B-8155-36-F2460-E953-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/jJvymmF/D4170-B9-C-1-AB1-498-B-A551-F04-F36-CAFBFB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/X4Txk66/3840652-E-940-E-4-A9-F-8-B5-D-CF53-F629662-F.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/wyDds0V/901283-D6-FB26-40-DB-B748-A5-AFFFE8-BDEF.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/KqC0YWj/64-BACF00-C52-D-401-C-A643-F71-D6-AB14-EFC.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/x1R0CH2/E7564-E10-3-DCE-4-AE9-A9-D6-BD491532-C288.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/s39WmTk/73293-E9-C-7044-4-D15-938-B-65-E04-A9-B80-CA.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/dc4PS3z/223476-DA-DCC6-4-E5-C-A611-73290982-F6-BA.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/255YQPb/DC112-F21-CB4-A-4344-9-B93-51-AF80-EF0353.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/WFWYX3s/F0-B56-FAF-F56-B-4986-873-C-D8-BE9035-E0-C5.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/C6k5VNV/8150-D2-B7-615-B-4485-ABE5-429-C5-F0-EC61-C.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/0VcKLL5/0-F9-FA8-A3-9345-45-B5-BEEB-D1-DB9-F458-CFB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/vmPcbXY/DBF4-D568-4-BA6-4-E8-A-A9-FA-28-C381-F379-FB.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/rQ9wWKx/96-C341-E9-79-A5-49-E2-AA03-5-EF2-F20-E3-BC5.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/zPPgXfW/322-A5-CB3-505-D-4180-949-F-02-CCE840-B16-D.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/vwD2mqk/89-E8-FEBD-BC0-D-45-B8-AE21-D6-BBB5-A80-DB0.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/W0tJKk2/7-BCA4-CFF-9915-4-C71-8-D84-E0-FF1-F0-D2-B78.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Wy0ybfK/6-FAB0942-8-AB0-4-AF7-BD7-E-0840-CC6908-A7.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/5TJW6mJ/0-E2-C975-C-1-D10-44-CF-B512-6-C662937-D360.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/wBGMBXW/E8780722-4-DCB-4217-AF66-7-DA155-C317-ED.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/8gvH4bW/BF29082-C-DD57-468-D-BCF6-37994-EB563-D1.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/XJ183C2/10230-B12-4-A9-A-4400-8-ACB-53-A5-F058-A3-CC.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/RHdjk0F/4-C160-A6-A-5267-41-CD-852-A-9-B59-ECC477-A3.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/mzP6373/69-BAF5-F4-C8-D5-42-A6-9-B92-5-EF4072-EF760.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/qsyNWPv/BD7-A26-B2-B8-B5-42-B3-874-B-9-D997850-BFE1.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/vjGWX8K/452-BCE83-5-A7-A-4-D91-8235-078-AD647-F500.jpg)


(https://i.ibb.co/km6w7pk/520-A08-B1-9144-4330-9189-512-F0-DD05-A1-E.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/YyMNThV/AF8-F5749-A200-43-F5-B340-0-E269-EDE138-F.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/NjxH0cz/A25-FAD86-68-DF-4-D93-87-E0-48-BC6245-EF57.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/N194Bhp/D306-A8-CA-7064-4-C05-BCD1-327-DA94887-CC.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/ynKVkH7/EBC7-CD93-173-C-40-A6-BD3-D-F4-FB3-D618643.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/9TzNPDZ/AF7-AAF3-E-062-D-4-AF4-BCCC-23-CC531-E758-C.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/pynP6Bk/FC6-E0-CD0-4397-47-F4-A4-F9-D35-A17-D14-D03.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/8zgpSfC/87-F3-CEC0-B7-C9-4-CCF-AF22-CA1-A923621-C7.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/QbynHjt/B407-C03-C-3-C78-4-B3-A-9-C1-B-AC0-EFA5-B270-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/BrQsvkV/24440-E8-E-829-C-42-D3-A71-D-8-D60-A53916-EB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/zND78ZB/26-E5-E461-5907-483-B-84-A0-D1-E122-A9-D7-F1.jpg)


A sill strengthener was made up, with 38mm dimple dies pressed into it to get some strength into the panel, the same will be made for the other side

(https://i.ibb.co/LRxC2cW/717-C3-BAF-4872-4719-B56-D-1-FE114638-ECC.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/FVdDm95/9513-FA3-C-A31-A-4184-AD28-8-A05-E7-C10-BA7.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/DWg3yc6/66-EEB258-3061-4-C1-C-B20-A-19-D5454-AAE3-B.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/NLwpMdR/353-B4-DC8-F540-49-F8-9166-783-E9-A94-ED70.jpg)

Sill offered up and original bodywork trimmed to get it to fit, need to be as careful as possible as I don’t want to put more heat into the panel that I need to do I can avoid distortion

(https://i.ibb.co/GMzGj5y/AB5-D930-A-A1-A1-4-D9-A-8484-19-DFDDE292-E2.jpg)

And currently, the front subframe mounts are being replaced with new OEM mounts

(https://i.ibb.co/JBStrNw/C3-F14-DF5-9-C70-4-DCE-A0-D1-05-CC39-D531-EB.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/bRqJjmV/6-F010639-E489-4222-A7-B9-120-F34-A12-EB9.jpg)
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: scs on July 13, 2022, 05:43:37 PM
Blimey you do like a challenge
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: Monkey on August 08, 2022, 12:19:57 PM
Wow... just wow!

Not sure I could start over again like you have, but fair play for just cracking on!
Title: Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD
Post by: Eddypeck on August 08, 2022, 02:07:51 PM
Wow... just wow!


that sums it up, nothing more I can add