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Messages - Monkey

76
Technical / Re: Rear door help please,
When I've had a door lock seize, I've managed to pull the rubber weather strip out from in the inside of the car.
This has then allowed access to the striker and lock mechanism, where I could then use a big flat blade screwdriver to open the latch manually.
83
Members' Cars / Re: Cope's GTI
Again (like a broken record) great write up!
Always enjoy your Nurburgring reports.
Shame your mates couldn't go with you, that's a hell of a daunting thing to be flying solo, good on you for pushing on!
We're actually starting to plan our 2024 trip, if you want to try and match dates, could act as a safety net for next year?

Also, love how Nige is happy in every single track photo!
85
New Members Say Hi! / Re: New member seeking help already
That's correct, the digis didn't have a 5th injector.
They have a warm up routine where they bring the idle up a few hundred rpms.

If the car won't fire at all when it's in broken mode (I'm assuming it doesn't cough or spit), then we go back to the classic requirements:
Spark - Have you checked this?
Fuel - you've got fuel at the rail, but possibly not through the injector, when it's broken, turn it over a bit and have a spark plug out, see if it's wet with fuel.
Timing - Have a go at swinging on the dizzy when it's broken, but as mentioned, mark it first so you can reset if needed.
Compression - Fingers crossed, this is ok if they've tried it when it's broken - did they give you the results?
Air - Pretty sure you have that

Good hunting
86
New Members Say Hi! / Re: New member seeking help already
So when the car is in 'broken' mode, can you restart the car if you keep your foot on the throttle?

Your car should idle around 950rpm when fully warm, when it's cold, should be around 1200.

There is a specific procedure for timing, though it needs the car to be idling when fully warm.
As you can't do this at the moment, I'd mark up the dizzy with a paint pen (so you can put it back if necessary), then loosen it off and turn it when it's warming up.

That being said, it might not be your timing, it might be the idle speed screw, I'd try that first.
In the front of your throttle body, there is a small brass screw to control idle speed (usually covered with something). wind that out a little and see where it gets you.
87
New Members Say Hi! / Re: New member seeking help already
Very true, if you're sucking in unmetered air, the ECU can't send the correct fuel in.
One way to check is to spray a little brake cleaner around the rubber pipes, if the revs pick up, you've got a leak there.
88
New Members Say Hi! / Re: New member seeking help already
Ok, good info.
At least we know that there should still be compression there.

The fact that the engine dies faster when hot can mean a couple of things:

Your air fuel ratio is off and introducing more air to it is throwing it off massively, causing it to die. - Try disconnecting the air flow meter and see what difference that makes.

Your fuel pump is dying and stops working when it gets hot, so you're just running out of fuel faster when you try to use more. - Pop the screw on the end of the fuel rail off, stick a hose on it into a bottle and see if you have fuel when attempting to restart.
89
New Members Say Hi! / Re: New member seeking help already
Ok, that RPM is a tell-tale straight away.
On warmup is should be more like 1200rpm, only dropping to 900 once it's been fully warmed (fan kicked in and out).
Good that the compression is good, did they test is warm or cold do you know?

Also, when it gets hot and dies, does the car re-fire and stop, (can you keep it running with throttle?) or does it just not fire?

Typically, a car only needs 5 things to operate:
Spark
Fuel
Timing
Compression
Air

Just work through them when the car starts to play up.

One other thing, I'd be very suspicious of the garage that said they had set up the timing.
In order to set it up properly, the car has to be at full running temperature, something yours cannot do right now.
90
New Members Say Hi! / Re: New member seeking help already
Hi Luke,

Do you know what tests the garages did on your car?
Could be a couple of things, neither of which would be an ECU, if they're dead, the car just wouldn't fire in the first place.

First thing I'd do is a compression test, I've had it in the past where a car would start when cold, but when the car warms up, the tolerances open up and then the compression drops to where it couldn't fire.
It also could easily be the timing/idle is not set up correctly.

Where abouts are you based? Maybe you're close to a decent garage who can diagnose it properly.