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1
Technical / Re: PB injector seats
Last post by nadabsardar -
The injector seats themselves  "uncommon" ly need replacing unless you can see actual pitting, cracking or corrosion on the sealing face — most people just give them a good clean up with a scraper/wire brush and a squirt of carb cleaner, then check the surface is smooth and true. If a seat's damaged (usually from an injector having been leaking for ages and cooking the area, or from over-tightening in the past) then yes, sort it, but as routine practice on a head gasket job you wouldn't normally need to touch them — just inspect.

On the O-rings, no, the uppers and lowers aren't the same size on the PB — the lower ones (sealing the injector into the head) are a different diameter/thickness to the top ones (sealing at the injector top/fuel distributor end), so don't assume you can use four identical rings from a generic kit. Worth checking the part numbers against ETKA or a parts diagram before you order, because a lot of the cheaper "universal" head gasket kits only bundle the lower set and expect you to source the uppers separately — sounds like that's exactly the situation you're in.

Good idea replacing all of them regardless of condition while it's apart, they're pennies compared to the labour of going back in if one weeps.
2
New Members Say Hi! / Hello World (tdi'd content here)
Last post by Zed. -
Hello all 8)
I thought I'd joined many years ago but couldnt trace an account so here goes.....

longterm owner and currently have a few :-[


old photo from ~ 10 years ago, the blue B3 td is now spares as panels are unobtanium, the red B3 tdi'd is in need of tlc and the golf tdi'd is still on daily duties!
not shown is my '95 t4 tdi'd and '91 B3v tdi'd (both also red)

I'm also a fan of vw's tdi engines, my t4 was converted from 1x 1900td to 1z 1900 tdi ~14 years ago using a 314000mile B4v donor and I was convinced, the mk2 was bought around the same time as a 1.8gl and within a month had surgery for aaz 1900 td with 02a gearbox / b4 hydro clutch pedalbox / mk3 golf tdi subframe / power steering and B4tdi f&r brakes, this lasted untill 10 years ago (august 2016) when a mk3 tdi donor was swapped in as I wanted cruise control ;D 
the red 'g' plate B3v was already tdi converted when bought (aparently by TSR from mid 90's??) but it used audi 80 wiring overlaying the Passat loom and was not great  ???  I re-converted and made better with all B4tdi loom / engine & box and intercooler etc.
7 years ago I gained a '91 B3v with the singlepoint injected 1800 engine, I had a donor B4v tdi in th yard so spliced them togther & drove it for a few years untill rot overtook the possibility of another mot so its getting stripped :o


the mk2 having its first welding 2 years ago, what started as rear axle bushes became a whole new axle and welding to the back of the sills insde the wheelarches, think it was abut 37 years old then!

as you can see I have a few cars, also too many projects :-X


whats in the future? pd time as the old ve tdi is showing its age!

Rich.
4
Heating & Cooling / Re: Temp Gauge
Last post by scs -
you can check if the thermostat is opening by feeling the radiator hoses. If the bottom hose is not hot the thermostat is not opening.
5
Heating & Cooling / Temp Gauge
Last post by Andyo11 -
Hi, on starting my car the temp gauge slowly goes up to the three quarter mark then hits the warning light and after a while brings the oil alarm on and buzzer ? I’m assuming it’s a real temp as it’s bringing both warning lights on ? I’m thinking of changing the thermostat ? Any ideas ?
7
Technical / Re: wheel tire combo
Last post by nadabsardar -
For a genuinely stock-height Mk2, the safe bet most people land on is a 15x7 (ET35–38) or 15x6.5 (ET38) with a 195/50/15 or 185/55/15 tyre that combo clears full lock on stock suspension without touching anything, even with mild wear/flex in the bushings.

If you push to 16x7 ET35 with a 195/45/16, it'll usually still clear stock height on a 3dr, but it gets tighter at full lock/full compression, especially on bumpy roads some guys get away with it clean, others get a light kiss on the inner arch lip under hard compression. Depends a bit on your specific arch (rust repairs, respray thickness etc. all shave a mm or two).

18s are a hard no without lowering and rolling on a Mk2 the arch just isn't tall enough at stock ride height, you'll be into the arch or fender liner every time.

Offset-wise, don't go below ET30 on the front if you're running stock height you'll start fouling the strut/inner arch before the outer.

So realistic ceiling for zero rubbing, zero cutting, stock height: 16x7 ET35 with a 195/45/16, with 15x7 ET35 as the "definitely safe, no drama" option.

On lowering totally fair call at your stage, and for what it's worth a lot of us who've had these cars 20+ years end up back near stock height eventually anyway, it's kinder on the car and you. If you ever do go coilovers just for the adjustability (not to slam it), a 20–25mm drop opens up 16s properly with zero rub margin to spare, and you could even look at 15x8 for a slightly meatier stance without touching the arch.