I might be talking rubbish here but I had a 1.6 cl had a very similar fault the car would start run for 10 miles and then lost power and cut out. But it would start shortly after and run fine. The fault was the automatic choke sticking on when running but would release after being stood for a while.That can happen. Its usually because there is no electric feed to the choke, meaning it needs the coolant to heat up before the choke backs off. The symptoms are it bogs down when trying to accellerate, and can die completely. Its easy to check, if there is current getting to the choke (when the engine is cold disconnect the wire to the choke and put the ignition on, there should be 12v at the wire). Usually the grey thermo switch breaks. But it can also be cause by the earth for the choke housing being damaged. That can be checked with a multi meter by doing a continuity check. My sons driver have both these problems, but it took a while to figure it out! Another way to check the choke it backing off is pull up the intake box, put on the ignition and watch the choke flap. After a minute or two it should be starting to open.
I'm very familiar with pierberg carb, having stripped the one on my sons driver and spent ages reading up the pierburg manual. I wouldn't blame the carb necessarily, and I doubt its the waxstat, which when it fails leaves the idle way too high. Its easy to check though. When it dies, lift the carb air filter a bit and spray some easy start down it to see if it starts. If it does then it could a carb problem. If not then I suspect its an electrical fault. I would try changing the ignition module, dont buy a cheap one, but a good quality branded part as they have a habit of failing in the way you describe.
If the carb is to blame, then it may be carb icing, which is easy to check, ie the carb body will be stone cold. Usually with the carb problems, the car will run, just very badly which is why I think its an electrical fault.
Someone might recognise it.
A DVLA look-up will tell you if it's Taxed and MOT'ed. That would at least tell you it's in road-worthy condition.
Hi I'm new member on here. I had a Grey 16v Big bumper about 20 years ago and loved it.
Was wondering if there is any way to trace a particular vehicle?
Only issue I have is I've changed my rear hubs for Polo Gti items, which I believe are a little thicker, so can no longer rely on them making the string completely parallel with the car, I was thinking about trying to find the exact centre of the car font and rear, then do it off of that.
You number is 1735