On further reading I've figured it out. I remembered that some point this car had a mk3 starter fitted for more grunt. As such it only has one spade connector and I'll bet a beer that the csv isn't hooked up. After being idle with old dirty fuel, it had no chance of firing without the help of the csv. Jumping it did the trick amd got that new fuel in for a start.
I think I'll fit a proper 16v kr starter with the right dual spades and hook it all up properly.
In the mean time I'll track down and replace the faulty temperature senders to hopefully stop that blinking light.
To add, I jumped the CSV with residual fuel pressure and got it nearly going. I then jumped it fully whilst cranking and got it running pretty well after about 5 minutes. Killed the ignition and hot start was bang on.
Hi everyone. I've finished sorting out my fuel filter / pump / housing issues and have achieved fuel pressure at the injectors / 5th injector rail.
I was having real trouble getting it running so started checking out the cold start side of things. I'm not hugely electrically minded so please bear with me! Strong battery with a strong crank just no fire.
The distributor needs some love and has been soaking most of the RHS of the engine in oil for a long time. Therefore a lot of the WUR and coolant sensors were very mucky. I went round and cleaned all of these connectors up and made sure all the earths were corrosion free. Still nothing.
I took out the CSV to see what it was upto. Loads of pressure at the banjo but nothing being sprayed on ignition. I jumped the CSV directly to the battery and it sprayed nicely.
Funnily enough I noticed that the coolant sensor was flashing on the dash. I earthed the red and black wire and the temperature gauge maxed out so that's working.
Am I right in thinking that the CSV could be dead because the sensor is knackered and it thinks the engine is hot and therefore not grounding the CSV circuit and giving me starting issues?
Thanks in advance, apologies if this is a bit rambling.
The fun continues then! With regards to changing the front lines how feasible is it having the car on axle stands with engine in? Is it a case of wiggling them right or is there too much in the way?
Hi there, I wound the pistons right back and pumped them back a good few times (without pads and off the carrier) to make sure they weren't binding. Both moved freely out and were quite easy to compress back in.
