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41
Technical / Re: 1.6 Driver Carb/Running issues
Last post by Keekster64 -
Does it have the original Pierburg carb, or a weber?

I'll assume it has the original.  The Pierburg carb is a fussy carb and look very complex on first appearance, but you can get your head round it with the help of some you tube videos.  If you have sorted the rubber mount, then the next thing I would check is the vacuum hoses behind the carb for splits.  I prefer good fitting silicone hose cause it lasts longer.  When you start the engine from cold, the idle is initially set by the 3 point unit on the left hand side, then it drops after a few seconds (up to 30s), and the idle is controlled by the waxstat.  The waxstat as it warms up causes an arm to turn causing the idle to drop.  If you remove it and find wax or coolant is leaking out of it, its knackered and needs replaced (assuming you can find one).  In my experience, they are slow to react causing the idle to stay higher than you need for a quite a while. But it has no affect on the mixture, just the idle speed.

The vacuum hoses control the 3 point unit only.   There is a solenoid on the carb that should click when you turn the ignition  on, if it doesn't the 3 point unit will retract fully and it wont idle.  You can test it by putting 12v through it.  The choke is on the top of the carb.  It controls the mixture only.  It has a 12v wire feed, but its also controlled by the coolant.  The 12v feed comes from the grey thermo switch on the top hose.  Next to the head.  When the engine is cold you should get 12v from the wire that goes to the fuse box, and from the thermo switch to the carb.  You also need to check that the carb is earthed.  If not the electric feed to the choke wont work.  This is important, as it causes the choke to back off whilst the coolant is still cold.  A simple check is to remove the air box and switch the ignition but not start the engine.  After a minute you should notice the choke flap starting to open.  If the choke will only back off once the coolant pipes get hot it will run far too rich when cold and cause the carb to flood and it bogs down the car, giving very rough running. 

If you have checked all this and it still wont idle it may have a blocked jet in the carb.
https://youtu.be/taTBdkrQouI?si=KyG7qe4UiuHW4-a_
44
Technical / Crazy's Mk2 Jetta front-end repair build-log
Last post by CrazyDiamond -
Hey fellas! Chris here. This is going to be a repair/build log for my Canadian '89 Mk2 Jetta 1.6td (LHD). Putting this here because I'm bound to run into issues, and this community has been an amazing source of information! Plus, it'll be helpful for me to document & maybe someone will find it useful someday.

CURRENT STATUS: Parts Ordered

BACKGROUND:

Back at the end of November 2025, I was driving home, and the SUV in front of me suddenly stopped abruptly. Basically got brake checked (and unfortunately failed). That's a long story, and I won't get into the chain of events but...

I think the damage looks worse than it is. The engine didn’t stop when I hit them, but the alternator light came on. I shut it off immediately. Their bumper contacted my grille and hood. Grille is toast. Rad support bent. The radiator was punctured, and coolant dumped all over the road. The headlights are obviously ruined. And bent the hood and right fender. From what I can see inside… no extreme damage. It does appear the OEM airbox got punctured by the back of the headlight. Once the car is back in my hands, then I can get a better look and will update below.

And so the rebuild begins! The vehicle was branded, unfortunately, and the Ministry of Transportation here requires a structural safety, mechanical safety, and wheel alignment before I can get it back on the road. So it'll be tricky navigating the optimal way to do everything... as the car will need to be towed several times over the course of the repair and getting it back on the road. The intent is to do 90% of the work myself (some of this will be a first for me) and the remaining 10% will be paint or minor body work by a shop.

NON-RELEVANT BACKGROUND:
Spoiler (click to show/hide)

CRASH PHOTOS



TO-DO LIST

  • Strip off all damaged bits & assess for surprises.
  • Straighten out bent lip on the upper apron and inner wing.
  • Get new hood & fender painted. Replace. Along with side marker light.
  • (Final Step) Wheel alignment. Structural Safety. Mechanical Safety. Rebrand to rebuilt with MTO.

PARTS LIST
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
45
Technical / 1.6 Driver Carb/Running issues
Last post by RhysMarkham -
Hi all,

I noticed that the carb flange was split on my 1.6 driver. This was causing the car to run/idle poorly (it would improve if i leaned on the carb and closed up the split). I replaced the part, but now the car wont tick over at all.

Is there anything glaringly obvious that I could try?

Failing that, could anyone recommend a mechanic in the Sheffield area who would come to the car? (The car has no MOT so couldn't be driven even if it did run)

Thanks
46
Mk2 Golf Chat / mk2 1.3 golf cam upgrade
Last post by wub -
Hi All

My sons Mk 2 1.3 golf, has just blown a head gasket. we've stripped it down, (head bolts very loose!) which was probably the cause of the problem. I've had the head skimmed and tested and thinking of taking the opertunity to Stick a fast road cam in. We already have a weber convertion kit and a performence exhaust runniung for a year or so. But i cant find any body that does a cam? Some googling has mentioned the cam from  similar age 1.3 GT polo, is a good bet?

I've contated Piper and they dont seem to think they do anything. But they do this

https://www.pipercams.co.uk/product/vphbp270hb

Whicth is listed for a 1.4 polo same age?

Ours is a MH engine code, hydrolic lifters, 1988

Anyone have any ideas, part numbers etc? Or any other modes whilst its all apart?

Thanks
47
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by Monkey -
Have you really owned a classic car if you don't have a photo of you flipping off a part you've just removed??
48
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by ianmac86 -
The Golf was going well until one of the not very old mk4 rear calipers decided the handbrake mech was going to seize on 🙄 i was going to order a pair but decided just to replace what was broken. Its taken enough of my money lately!

One shiny new Apec caliper. Not red like the other three corners 😅

Old one, i reckon this was from maxspeeding rods, i should have known better!


New copper washers


Did put a pressure bleeder on it but i always find i get better results having an assistant pump the pedal. Called the wife out and she slammed her coat zip in the door 😢


The handbrake cable on the same side was playing up. I did buy a pair but again thought I would opt to replace just the faulty one. It only took about 5 minutes to change so i decided to do both, which in the end proved to be a good decision. The handbrake has never felt so good.
Looks like its also seized up





The rivets on the side of the handbrake mechanism inside the car had become loose, causing the ratchet system teeth to miss each other, effectively causing the handbrake to fall down! I thought about drilling the rivets out and nutting a bolting it, but at the risk of making a bigger job, I stuck it in Dan's press and squeezed the existing rivets tight. This seems to have worked a treat.

You can see where i have previously tried to punch the rivets in an attempt to bodge it in the past.


Whilst the wheels were off I decided my multi colour tape protection on the BC's was a bit comical 🤣

Much better


I decided I had run the car in enough post headgasket so when for another oil change. Love a box of Quantum and a new genuine vw filter you can see i also temp removed spacers. I thought it wasnt catching but turns out the 1st speed bump the fronts weren't happy! I might take the angle grinder to the arches at some point because it looked so good but for now they're off


The induction kit still on here but I have now reverted back to gtd airbox


Also noticed my steering boot was split, massively underestimated this as a job 🤣




Got there eventually and car is now fully working ahead of Donington!
I've mounted a few gopro mounts so hoping to get a bit of footage. Fingers crossed for some dry weather!
49
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Idle problems MK1
Last post by pedrocaneira -
Many thanks! I am in Portugal but the car was imported...i believe from Germany in 1996. I tried the sensor you mentioned but the problem persists :(
Any other ideas?
Tks in advance
Cheers, Pedro
50
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Idle problems MK1
Last post by Monkey -
Hi Pedro,

Where abouts in the world are you from?
Reason I ask is that country dependant, VW put different engines into the golfs.
You mention that you have a 90hp injection engine.
In that period, in the UK, the only injection engines the mk2 had were the GTI engines, both over 100bhp.

However, there are a lot of similarities, for instance, the first thing I'd check would be the coolant temperature sensor.
This is (possibly) a blue sensor, usually mounted to a flange on the head where the top radiator hose is fixed.
Get the car running normally, then disconnect it, if the idle changes, it's working ok, if not, then there is a problem.