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71
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by Ashton0678 -
The engine is turning freely with little resistance which is great news.

Yeh @t2000 its weird. The little.metal ring was in there too which was more concerning but a quick goole and it looks like a rocker cover spacer maybe? Apparently does happen if someone has replaced the rocker cover before and dropped one in 😫

Going to try and do what you said @monkey and maybe put more oil in and try it without the dizzy lead attached so it wont start and see if that works.

I suppose its been left to drip dry for a few days and as such the level needs to be 'too high' on the dipstick markers for it to pick up and recirculate right?
72
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by Monkey -
Quote from: t2000 on
Quote from: Ashton0678 on
Thanks both really appreciate the reply and the help.
@Monkey the engine has been solid for the last 5 years but hardly gets used nowadays tbh.
I'll go through the steps and update.
In the meantime I've created a link to the pictures I took of the stuff in the Sump and from underneath which may give a bit more context.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YbC9eGoywSwK4fhY6

Those red bits look like the dipstick tube red bit has broken before and gone into the sump, probably been replaced.

Agreed, I can't think of any other red plastic that gets anywhere near getting that close to the oil supply.
Can't get my head around what that collet it though, was it in the sump? Looks like one of those collets that go around bolts in modern engine rocker gaskets.

Either way, that oil doesn't appear glittery, so that's a big positive.
You could just have a dead oil pump.
73
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by t2000 -
Quote from: Ashton0678 on
Thanks both really appreciate the reply and the help.
@Monkey the engine has been solid for the last 5 years but hardly gets used nowadays tbh.
I'll go through the steps and update.
In the meantime I've created a link to the pictures I took of the stuff in the Sump and from underneath which may give a bit more context.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YbC9eGoywSwK4fhY6

Those red bits look like the dipstick tube red bit has broken before and gone into the sump, probably been replaced.
74
Engine & Gearbox / Re: 1991 auto 1.6 high idle RPM, lumpy turning off then backfires
Last post by Keekster64 -
First of all, does it have the original Pierburg 2E2 Carb?  These get a lot of stick, but once you get your head round how it works its not that bad.  There are various you tube videos that explain how it works and what you need to check.  I recommend you view them first.  In terms of what's wrong with it, it could be one of the following.
- The vacuum hoses at the back of the carb are split.
- The 3 point unit is not working properly (possibly because of the hoses or the diaphram inside has gone)
- The waxstat is faulty
- The linkage between the waxstat and the throttle arm needs adjusted
- The rubber mount is split

 The fact that the engine runs on suggests to me the throttle arm is not going to the off position (controlled by the 3 point unit), so I'd check the hoses first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taTBdkrQouI
76
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by ianmac86 -
Quick update after the 2025 National Meet (18–20th July):

As tradition seems to dictate great weather right up until the event, then a wet weekend! Still, it was a brilliant meet as always and it’s always a bit of a downer knowing it’s a full year until the next one. Great to catch up with mates new and old, though I was absolutely shattered for days after thanks to late nights, poor food and drink choices, and probably too much socialising!






The car behaved flawlessly all weekend surely I must be overdue a breakdown now? This year I ran slightly less camber at -0.5° after some faffing about with alignment, and I was on Accelera 651 Sport Extra tyres. They might’ve held me back just a touch compared to last year noticeably traction on the first corner after the straight, where I kept locking up in the wet. Once it dried out, confidence grew and I started pushing the car harder. No trophies this but there were some incredible cars and drivers this year that thoroughly earned them. To be honest i still have imposter syndrome from winning 2023 and 2024.

The gearbox is definitely showing signs of needing attention—1st gear synchro is crunching, and 3rd’s starting to do the same, especially when things get hot. An upgrade has already been sourced!

With the opportunity to change gearbox i took some time to research what others had done. I message a few mates that still run ABFs and did plenty of my own research as well.
These are the boxes I have used myself previously:
020 AUG – Perfect. Short, punchy, ideal for how I like to drive the car but weak boxes and i have already converted to cable change and hydro clutch so not an option. Also quaife wouldn't fit .
02A AGC – From Corrado G60s and Passat 16vs. Crazy short 1st and 2nd, average 3rd, and overly long 4th/5th. Too extreme on both ends of the scale.
02A CDA – Nice for everyday use, more relaxed; actually the box VW fitted to Mk3 Golf ABFs. This is what i am using currently.

I came close to buying another AGC from a mate. It was a fair price and convenient but had to remind myself why I didn’t want it last time. Just not right for what I want out of the car now.

After plenty of searching marketplace and eBay, I rang Sandburns in Coventry and explained the situation and why my reg wouldn’t help and explained exactly what I was trying to achieve. To be fair, the guy got it instantly and said he used to supply gearboxes to Stealth back in the day, even marking the good ones with a red paint pen.

He came back with a few options, including ERT (4.25 FD—would’ve been mad, but just too much). I ended up with an EMR-coded box, which felt like the perfect compromise between better acceleration and a still-usable 5th gear.

At 6500rpm (mine goes to 7200, but I don’t often push that far), the gearing hits a nice sweet spot. The only thing not quite as the same as the AUG is the 2nd–3rd rev drop, but that’s being picky. What I loved most about the AUG was how quickly it came back into the power band from 2nd to 3rd, where most of the fun happens. This box gets very close.


Dan helped me fit it. Took about two hours, he works really fast! We set up the cables and went for a drive, no crunching, all gears select, no whine, no leaks. The box looked really clean and well stored. David at Sandburns said when he cleared 500+ boxes from his old place, he scrapped the crusty looking ones and only kept the best. He also gave me a 3-month warranty, which gave a bit of peace of mind but doesnt look like i will be needing it. Also the reason i fitted it before fitting the Quaife so it would be in returnable condition should there have been any issues.  Gears select nicley from the gearbox end but a bit vague 1-3-5 from shifter which i am failry certain just requires cables playing with and /or the matching selector tower from my other box that came out.


Ratios are pretty much bang on what I was after, definitely more punchy without being tiring. I took it to work the next day… and then, a mile from home, disaster!

I heard a loud pop, felt heat on my feet, and watched steam pour through the dash. Stalled the car in shock, stuck the hazards on and opened the bonnet. My expansion tank was empty. Ideally I should’ve let it cool, topped up and limped it but impatience won. I drove it home one mile with no further drama. Not my finest decision in hindsight maybe.


That week I bypassed the matrix and tested the head gasket twice, it has definitely failed. I’ve never done a head gasket before, but with some encouraging advice from mates and a few Youtubes later I cracked on. Set the engine to TDC, stripped inlet and exhaust manifolds, distributor and other various plugs, sensors I was nearly there. I got Dan to check over what i had done, we removed the timing belt tensioner and then the head bolts -which were loose and off came the head. It wasn't completely obvious from the gasket where it had blown but the machine shop said it can be harder to find if exhaust gases have escapes into coolant and not the other way round?


A few days later, I stripped the head down fully. Again, totally new to me but with help and the right tools it was surprisingly straightforward. Took it to Dan’s for guidance and to use his expertise and tools. Reassembly will probably be a bit trickier.
You can see in the photos how much RTV I’ve used previously just to get the rocker cover to seal properly…




A few parts have arrived already. Also ordered genuine oil filter and Quantum oil and a new expansion tank and cap


The head is now with the machine shop- Knights engine services. Dan reccomended them, they also do the machining for Man in the shed so i know I am in safe hands. When I dropped it off, they asked for the valves (which I didn’t know), so I had to post those after—a bit frustrating after a 45-minute drive. 7-10 day wait from 4/8/25. Turns out i need to exhaust Valve guide too so may as well be done while I am there. It was at this point I had considered a ported head and cams which found on marketplace. Listed as an unused Robert Cox ported head and regrind 272 cams with 12.6mm lift, but with standard ABF management it just doesn’t seem worthwhile. Without standalone, you’re leaving so much potential on the table and by that point of spend, I may as well have gone for 20vt or 3.2 v6. It’s just not cost effective for me chasing power this way in my opinion, as much as I want to . Head over heart moment😕

While the head’s away I also sorted the interior. heater matrix will have to be changed just waiting for foam to redo heater flaps, stripped the carpets, cleaned and dried everything properly.






Also got myself set up with some alignment tools—Mat Rhodes recommended the Toe gauge and to be honest, if it’s good enough for him, I’m confident it’ll do the job for me too. I also got an inclinometer for setting camber. I’ll be trimming down the excess material on my Powerflex top mounts soon and increasing the ride height a few mm to help prevent the splitter dragging under hard cornering or on speed bumps. I outright refuse to pay for another alignment as long as I live! Now that I’ve finally sorted the pulling issue, I’ll be increasing camber back toward -1.5° and refitting my camber bolts, which I removed earlier to rule them out as the source of the problem along with the topmounts.


Once the head’s back and rebuilt, the gearbox will be coming out again to fit the Quaife LSD and fresh bearings. It’d just be nice to make sure the head gasket job all goes smoothly before piling into the next job but there is a temptation to get on with it whilst I'm waiting 🤔
78
New Members Say Hi! / Hello - Request for advice for my 1988 Mk Gold GTi
Last post by TSebastiano -
Hi Everyone,

I contacted the club via Instagram and it was kindly suggested to me that I should join the forum as this would be the best place to ask for advice.

I'm hoping that I can get some advice regarding my mother-in-laws 1988 Mk2 Golf GTi. She has owned this car since new, but has not driven it since the pandemic. She kept it unused the last few years thinking that she would drive again (and a bit of emotion attachment no doubt), but has now finally decided that she will not drive again and wants to sell it .

I am hoping that I can get some advice from you guys as to the best place to sell the car and what I should ask for it and could expect to get for it.

Overview:

F registered
Mk 2 VW Golf GTi - 8v
5 doors
White exterior
Black/Grey interior
Condition - Original project car with all parts
Milage 97264
Located in North West Surrey

She bought it new in 1988 and has been its only owner and driver, it was used daily until March 2020. Since then it has been stationary at her home. The car has not been started or moved since 2023, the battery in now flat and I have not been able to start it.

Any advice would be appreciated

Kind regards

Tom

I'm not sure how to best share photos here?
79
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by Monkey -
Ok, few things could have set off the oil buzzer;
You could have a blocked pickup, did you inspect it when the sump was off?
You could have not put enough oil in/some has leaked back out, that will also set off the oil buzzer.
You could have used the incorrect weight oil and put too thin in, again causing a drop in pressure.
Unfortunately, the oil pickup could also have collapsed (the god knows what you described in your oil).
When you reassembled the sump, did you inspect the crank? did you see a build up of any dust or debris where you'd left it open?

If I were you, I'd check the level of the oil, then see if you can turn the engine by hand.
This will give you an idea of the condition of the engine and what has happened to it.
If there's enough in there and the engine turns over by hand, you're safe to attempt a restart,
Then pull off the dizzy king lead (so it won't start) and crank it till the oil pressure light goes out.
This will ensure oil has gotten around the engine again and it'll be safe to attempt another start.
Keep your eye on the oil pressure light and oil temp (if you can).

If you can't turn it over by hand, then unfortunately, something bad has happened and the engine has picked up.
If the oil pressure light doesn't go out when cranking for 30-50 secs, you're not getting oil everywhere, stop cranking, drop the oil sump back off and inspect the oil that comes out and the oil pickup on the oil pump. You might get away with fitting a new pump and trying again.