Hi all so just an update on where I'm at, I got a second opinion of someone who knows more about this stuff than me. He recently has done a clutch on a mrk 2 albeit a cabriolet, which might be a slightly different setup but he said that the flywheel can only go on in the one place, meaning that the flywheel timing mark must be in the correct place.
Once number one plug was removed and the flywheel was set to tdc, and checked that number one cylinder was also at tdc, we could determine that, for whatever reason someone had fitted the belt with the front of the engine being roughly 180° out.
I was able to remove the bung in the top of the gearbox without letting it all fall down inside, I managed to hacksaw of a chunk of the plastic from one end, then used a long but small flat bladed screwdriver, and a hammer and gently tapped the screwdriver around the bung, to try and break the main carcase away from the thread part of the plastic, so I could then pull it out and deal with the remainder. By doing this the whole thing just suddenly came loose and I managed to remove it.
As there is no engraved timing mark on the auxiliary crankshaft pulley, I timed the front of the engine up, and used tipex to mark where it should be. Then I timed up the flywheel accordingly, removed the belt, turned the crankshaft and camshaft back to the correct position, removed the rocker cover to confirm and refitted the belt, and the rocker cover.
Once the belt was back on I then had to adjust the timing on the distributor using a strobe light in the whole in the top of the gearbox, but before doing this I adjusted the idle speed, which is the small screw with the spring on it, located to the left of where the throttle cable (covered in red insulation tape is), (see pic 5 of carburettor), I managed to get the idle down to 850rpm, adjusted the timing by rotating the distributor until I could see the diamond pointer in the top of the gearbox. Now seems to be able to run at lower rpm then before. The idle speed might need tweaking a bit as seems to run a bit high.
I do have one question though, so from the research I have done on some models (I think the later ones, but I could be wrong!), the timing mark on the camshaft is the OT mark which aligns with the arrow on the plastic back cover. However there is also a dot on the camshaft pulley as well, and to confuse matters even more there is an OT mark as well as a dot on the pulley for the distributor or what some may refer to as the intermediate shaft. I wanted to know if anyone could tell me what the OT mark means, or what OT stands for, I'm guessing something in German, I also want to know what the purpose of the dot is for on the camshaft as well. In addition to that I want to know what the same marks mean on the distributor/intermediate shaft pulley, as I have currently aligned the crankshaft pulley with the dot and NOT the OT mark on the distributor/intermediate shaft, just for reference when the front bottom cover is removed those two pulleys are meant to align with the respective timing marks.
My OCD is just kicking in a little as to me it makes sense if I am to align the camshaft with the OT mark, then I should be using the OT mark on the distributor/intermediate pulley also. So if anyone can provide some insight into this it would be very much appreciated. If anyone has the official workshop manual which covers my car and spec and is able to provide some photos of what it says in the book that might be useful too! Don't worry I do intend to buy one, but money is a bit tight right now so am having to make do.
II think it is a weber carburettor, I had another look tonight, clearly wasn't looking properly previously! I have added some photos anyway for clarity.
I'll add some photos, I did have a look around the carburettor, didn't see any name engraved, doesn't seem like there's is room for it with all the gubbins of the carburettor anyway. I did manage to left the front of the filter up, and it did have ramair engraved on a piece of metal, but perhaps this just is part of the filter fitting kit.
I just checked my carburettor and it's a ramair carburettor, I don't know if that is good or bad. It has 2 separate same sized holes going downwards, so I'm guessing that means it's a twin carburettor.
Thanks for this reply, I will see if it says anything on the side of the carb. In regards to the starting I don't start it with the choke fully out, as it also seems to reluctant to start this way, for some I have found with the way it currently is, the best solution is to crank it and with my foot on the accelerator, and when it starts to adjust the choke accordingly to get it the 1500rmp sweet spot, and then if I just drive for no more than 1 minute and come to a stop, I would then need to make some minor adjustments to the choke again, potentially pushing it in ever so slightly as it tends to go up to 2000rpm.
Trying to get it to 1500rpm on the choke does take a few goes as it seems to be very sensitive around this area, and will either start dropping suddenly or go.straight back up to 2000rpm So gently tapping it with my hand, or as I push it grab the shaft between my thumb and index finger, to try and mitigate for any over adjustments I might make, as it is a bit stiff to push in this spot especially when trying to make millimetre adjustments.
I have found when it got up to temperature, if I was to push the choke all the way in, and go up a hill with a load, it would either be really lumpy and rough or go to cut out, maybe it wasn't hot enough and I need to give it more time.
At the minute I am doing quite a lot of long distance motor way journeys, until my other car is drivable, so I wouldn't really notice any lack of performance, but I do leave the choke at 1500 rpm on idle anyways.
Just a question of curiosity, why do these with a Webber carburettor, prefer to idle at 1200 rpm, where most cars usually idle at 800 - 900rpm approximately?
A follow up question from that, is would it be possible to adjust the mixture screw such as, that it would run fine at idle at 800 - 900 rpm?
Hi all I need a bit of advice/help with my timing, I just want to clarify which of the marks I have are the timing marks I should be using, and if the timing is currently not correct and this is ultimately causing my idling issues ( continue reading for further information). My car has always idled a bit erratically, it pulses a little and I don't think it's meant to, or not as much as it does, but this is my first mrk 2 and have not got anything to compare it to. Plus unless I rev it slightly when cranking it, it will either cut out straight away or run for a few minutes then cut out. When driving if I push the manual choke all the way in, then when I go to do a hill start with a load ie a few passengers, it will run really lumpy and rough, and even cut out. I have found if the choke is out so the car is running at 1500rpm at all times, I tend to not have any issues. Now from what I have read so far online this could be caused by a timing issue,
Someone before I owned the car has put an aftermarket carburettor on it, ( I don't know what brand, I don't know how you tell), I have not owned a car where I've swapped out the standard carburettor for a different one so a bit out of my depth here. The carb that has been fitted comes with it's own filter that sits directly on top of the carburettor, as the shape of the whole is oval but the air box has a standard circular whole, so things have been made to fit, I don't know if this is the cause of the problem or simply just adjusting the fuel jets in the carburettor. In case your wondering I have added this information for transparency on what might be the route cause of the issue.
So back to the timing, I was looking at what the timing marks are meant to be etc, I have a Haynes manual and through that but hasn't seemed to be much help to be honest. It seems most people align there cam with a mark on the back of the cam with the top of the head where it meets the rocker cover. However just to make my life even more difficult, my timing mark for the cam is different. I have a plastic back plate situated between the camshaft and engine, and there is an arrow on the plastic back plate with the letters ot next to it, on the camshaft pulley I have a mark that also has the same letters next to, now logic might dictate this is the timing mark. From what I have read online I think it is. However there is a second mark on the camshaft which is just a dot, similair looking to the one on the intermediate pulley which is what turns the distributor.
Now comes the fun part, there is meant to be an engraved small vertical line in the auxiliary crankshaft pully which also aligns with a dot that I mentioned above, on the intermediate shaft pulley. I can not see this line anywhere, I have taken the pulley of spun it round multiple times in my hand looking for one, it just isn't there. There is still some paint which is peeling off in various areas around the pulley, I don't know if it is original paint, or if someone has repainted it, and the paint is cover the vertical line.
I have been able to locate the marks on the distributor with the cap off, which is nice and simple.
I have left the most confusing part till last, the flywheel! I have removed the bung from the gearbox, but haven't been able to remove the outer plastic part which is screwed into the gearbox, I will have to invest in a giant allen key if it becomes apparent that this needs to be removed. On the flywheel I have several different notches, and engravings you name I seem to have them all. I have already read online and most seem to use just one, and again the haynes manual isn't great at providing information for this. So I have a diamond engraved and then 2 separate engraved dots, which are directly next to each other, but you see one then turn it a bit more and see the second, or at least it looks like there is 2, but it is oily on this part of the flywheel so a little hard to make out. Additionally to this I have what some may refer to as a VW timing lug which is used with a specialist vw tool, I believe I actually have two of these as well. I was able to locate this guide from another forum: http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/AdjustingTheTiming.pdf go to page 2 in the pdf I seem to be able to see both the step 2 image and the notes image.
Now from what I have gathered from some limited research most people use the engraved dot located next to the engraved shape, I think it looks a bit like a diamond or an arrow, but if I line up the ot mark on the camshaft pulley to the mark on the plastic backing plate, this also means the distributor is aligned, but when I check the flywheel I see the timing lug, and not the engraved dot and diamond shape. In order for me to see those, the camshaft pulley mark is 180° and so is the distributor.
I do believe it has had a clutch in it's time, I know the flywheel usually doesn't come off for this procedure, I don't know if someone has removed it for some other reason, I do have a record of a timing belt replacement as well, so I don't know if it was incorrectly aligned previously. On some of the flywheel marks though they have been tipexed for some reason.
I have changed the belt today, and just used the ot mark as it seems like it is what was used in the past and I think it is the correct mark, I didn't break my engine, and it runs how it did before I changed the belt, I just ultimately want to resolve this issue, and get to the bottom of these marks on the flywheel and which one I am meant to be using.
If anyone could help clarify what marks I should actually be using, whether this is causing my idling and slight erratic idling etc issues, as I have read that it can cause issues with idling etc if the timing isn't set correctly.
Here is a picture that has the timing marks which I can also see on the flywheel, when the cam is timed, I believe I am seeing the right most timing lug, and in order to see the TDC mark, the cam needs to be 180° out, I think I can also see to marks which both look like the TDC mark, but it is oily on that part of the flywheel, so not easy to tell. Ultimately I want to know if the flywheel being out would cause me my idling and starting issues, and whether the flywheel being out is something that needs to be rectified.
i don't know what model variant you have, I have a 1,6 petrol, 8 valve 1991, and I have a manual choke to the left side of the steering wheel, I don't know much about how these cars are meant to idle etc. I have discovered that with mine, the engine currently is happiest idling at 1500rpm, and from cold I have to rev it when cranking, otherwise it will either start and then cut out straight away or won't start at all. When hot if I bring the choke right in so it is idling at 800-900 rpm, then when it is under load, ie trying to perform a hill start with a load in the vehicle (several passengers), the engine is really lumpy and rough and is barely able to cope, but as soon as I pull the choke out enough then it will kick back into life. Sometimes I have found there is a fine line between too far in/out and just right.
I haven't checked the price of printing companies, but I imagine unless I was getting something big or many things printed, then the cost would probably be disproportionately high relative to the item being printed. A good analogy for this is, it's like buying a £2.00 item but then having to pay an £8.00 deliver fee, where the delivery fee represents the cost one might be charged by a private company.
I'm happy to pay whatever the cost is to a private individual specifically from this forum., as I'll know it would be the raw cost and maybe with a bit extra for their time.
To be honest I just wanted to see if it was something that people with 3d printers from this forum would be happy doing, and whether they would want to charge me a cost on top of what the delivery is, and a rough guide price. I understand that maybe it would only be available in the UK which is fine for me as I'm UK based.
To be honest for small things like clips, blanking plugs such as those used for switches in the centre console, are at least to me small things so it wouldn't bother me if they're not OEM as it's only plastic. I understand maybe to others it might be a bigger deal, which is fine but to me plastic is plastic.
Yeah my other car seems to be a oil contaminator at the minute (fresh oil goes in, used oil leaks out), I have some jobs planned for it to see if they solve anything), but I only need to use my car once a week for a 400 mile round trip so not too bad, I have managed to strip the carpet out of the passenger compartment (have left the boot as that seems fine) refitted all seats.
I have managed to track down 3 leaks into my car, both rear door membranes, I also think the offside front is also leaking, but will have a second look tomorrow, I removed the nearside rear completely as in the rain yesterday, it was pouring in. I have left the others fitted for the minute.
There is also a leak on` the nearside front, not from the membrane, it looks like water's coming in from the front wing, I have checked as best I can round where the blower motor sits but that all looks dry. Somehow water is dripping from the sound deadening where it's attached to the inside of the front wing, in front of where the door closes, and drips onto the floor.
I tried spraying water down the aerial, as where the aerial pokes through the rubber, there is a seemingly large gap. This hasn't seemed to make much difference.
I will continue the search tomorrow, I wanted to remove the housing/vent on the inside where the blower motor sits so I could remove the sound deadening without tearing completely, but some of the metal spring clips seem impossible to get to, there is one that is located on top of the housing and there doesn't seem to be a way of getting a screwdriver or trim tool in, to pop it off, slightly frustrating to be honest.
Hey thanks for your reply, I have been busy so apologies for late reply, so when I say face plate, mean the speedometer gauge the actual bit with the numbers on, same with the tachometer.
Without doubt in my mind its the door membranes. The shape of the doors channels water down the window and onto the door cards then into the car. Easy fix new liners are available and double sided tape. I know some people use thick plastic bags held on with double sided tape.
I removed the front carpet yesterday and some of the standard sound deadening across the top of the transmission tunnel, it was raining yesterday, and could see immediately water pouring in from the nearside rear door membrane, oddly the others seemed to be fine, I haven't removed the door cards from yet, I will get a hose to be sure, but the front passenger footwell below the kick panel where the factory sound deadening is soaked at the bottom, and the drivers front footwell is moist and the foam and carpet were also wet. Now since I have owned the car it has been parked on a flat service, so I can't quite see why the front would be wet, when I picked it up from the previous owner the car was in a garage, I believe it was on a slope, and if so I cannot be sure in which direction it was facing. So unless one of the other membranes is leak not so badly, or somehow the water has just travelled around. I have reason to believe it has been leaking for some time, as where the door shut seal sits at the bottom, the metal is quite rusty. I have only owned the car for 2-3 years.
Thanks for your reply! I will take a look when I get a chance, I feel like I need speak to a specialist to understand why if water runs inside the door, why it doesn't corrode or short out the electrics.
Thanks for the reply, that's interesting with newer cars from like mid 2000's onwards, it must not have such an important job as, people try not to tear them when removing, but don't seem to be super meticulous when putting them back in.
Mine doesn't but I do wonder how it would work with models fitted with electric motors, as surely if the water just runs down the inside of the door, would it not corrode, or possibly short out the electric motor or wiring harness?
I do know for a fact the drivers side front has been partially removed before, as when I did the same to have a look at the regulator, there was a sign it had been removed partially in the past.
Going by what you have said then, that might explain why where the bottom of the door shut seal sits on the body, is corroded somewhat.
The jobs are mounting up thick and fast, I have suspicion that the previous owner possibly new about the water leak, as was stored in their garage, where it literally just fit. One cannot speculate though, however it's a shame some people aren't more honest especially when selling cars of this age, as it could be that "dream" of someone's which it was for me, and some people aren't lucky enough to be blessed with time, funds or space to upkeep such a vehicle. With the other jobs I have planned, I will have to recuperate some funds, before purchasing further parts.
Hi there thanks for the the reply, good news it's not anything to worry about, thought someone had done some bodging for a second. There is potentially an issue with the rear foot well, not my main concern yet. Although I haven't got a hose out I thought half a litre or so of water across every door would show something. I don't quite understand how that membrane prevents water ingress into the car, as wouldn't the door just fill up with water, rather than the footwells, plus I don't think it's the boot as the boot seems okay.
