Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Recent Posts
22
I.C.E & Electrical / Re: Wiring help
Last post by TonyTorque -
The gauge needs a proper resistive sender, a float switch can't do it. Easiest is a universal adjustable sender in the cell, tube type or float arm. Measure the original sender empty and full with a multimeter, or look up the range your clocks expect. Then buy one with the same range, or a programmable one. If the range doesn't match the gauge reads wrong or sits at one end.
23
Mk2 Golf/Jetta Sales / Re: VW GOLF MK2 GTI 8V 5 DOOR FOR SALE
Last post by nadabsardar -
Nice write-up, and good that you've been upfront about the Cat C history and the front-end repair. Buyers on here will appreciate that.

One thing worth sorting before anyone enquires: the "Condition Inspected" change. If it's still in progress, it'd help to say where it's at, because that's usually the first thing people ask about on a car with a past write-off marker. Also, if you've got any paperwork from the bodyshop (Lightning Crash Repairs) or photos from during the repair, add them, as that really backs up the "professionally restored" claim.

At 244k you might want a few close-ups of the underside, sills and arches too. Rust is what most Mk2 buyers check first. Good luck with the sale.
24
Mk2 Golf/Jetta Sales / Re: 89 last of the small bumper 8valve gti didgifart
Last post by nadabsardar -
Cracking little build, that's exactly the sort of Mk2 I'd want for thrash days. Rare to see one still running the small bumpers and properly stripped out rather than just shell-and-cage for show.

One thing that might help it move: the thread's been sitting since last November, so it might be worth a fresh post with the price and a few clear photos on the ad itself, since not everyone clicks through to an external album. Also worth mentioning if it's got a V5 and whether it's MOT'd or SORN, as that'll decide whether buyers see it as a road car or a track toy.

£3000 doesn't look daft with the cage, coilovers, cam and three engines' worth of spares thrown in. Good luck with the sale.
25
I.C.E & Electrical / Re: Wiring help
Last post by MDitch -
Quote from: TonyTorque on
Michael, the tacho is the easiest one to start with. The Mk2 clocks want the signal from coil negative, and a 20v on coil packs hasn't got one, so you need the tach output pin from the engine ECU or that converter you have. Check which ECU it is running and look up its pinout for the rev counter wire. The speedo depends on the gearbox. If it is still a cable box the cable just needs to reach, but a later box with an electronic sender needs a pulse to cable converter or electronic clocks. On the fuel cell, a simple float switch will only ever give you a low fuel warning and not a proper gauge reading. For the MFA oil temp you need the correct sender, normally in the oil filter housing, with its wire run back to the clocks.

Thank you. With the fuel tank level then how would this be got around to be able to get a reading on the gauge?
26
I.C.E & Electrical / Re: Wiring help
Last post by TonyTorque -
Michael, the tacho is the easiest one to start with. The Mk2 clocks want the signal from coil negative, and a 20v on coil packs hasn't got one, so you need the tach output pin from the engine ECU or that converter you have. Check which ECU it is running and look up its pinout for the rev counter wire. The speedo depends on the gearbox. If it is still a cable box the cable just needs to reach, but a later box with an electronic sender needs a pulse to cable converter or electronic clocks. On the fuel cell, a simple float switch will only ever give you a low fuel warning and not a proper gauge reading. For the MFA oil temp you need the correct sender, normally in the oil filter housing, with its wire run back to the clocks.
27
Other Car Sales & Wanted / Re: Seat WANTED - blue / yellow pattern for 16v
Last post by nadabsardar -
Worth knowing that the blue/yellow pattern on the 16v is the "Rallye-style" check cloth, and the driver's bolster is the bit that always goes first, so a good passenger seat is probably your best bet, as you say. Might be worth checking the Mk2 breakers and Facebook groups too, as complete seats do turn up now and then.

Also, this thread is from January 2025 and hasn't had a reply since, so if you're still looking it might be worth bumping it or starting a fresh wanted post with a couple of photos of the damage. Having a photo of the pattern you need would help people match it properly.
28
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Golf gti 8v clutch question
Last post by TonyTorque -
If it's the 020 box, the pressure plate bolts to the crank and the flywheel bolts to the pressure plate. The bolts into the crank are the important ones and a lot of manuals list them as replace every time. The smaller flywheel bolts are generally fine to reuse if the threads are clean and undamaged. Check the Haynes or Bentley for your engine code and torque everything in a cross pattern. After the time you've put into that rebuild I'd personally wait for new crank bolts rather than risk it.
29
Engine & Gearbox / Golf gti 8v clutch question
Last post by mintysgt -
Hey peeps
 last year i fitted a second hand engine that lasted all of an hours idling and less then half a mile on the road before the engine decided to loose compression, Now i fully rebuilt the original engine, was hoping to get it back in the car this Saturday. Can i safely re use the old bolts for the clutch or not.

Have you successfully reused old bolts ?, Google says i can but best to just replace. I'm eager to fit the engine, but i waited this long, so whats another 3 weeks before the next chance to fit the engine. As i really doubt i could source them in 48 hours
30
New Members Say Hi! / Bonjour from France
Last post by TonyTorque -
Hello everyone
Antony here, 29, from Normandy in France.
To be upfront, I run garajo.co.uk, a car maintenance and service schedule site with Golf pages from the Mk3 onwards.
The Mk2 is where a lot of it started, and the restoration threads on here are a proper education.
Nice to be here. See you in the threads.