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21
I.C.E & Electrical / Re: Electrical issue
Last post by Carlator -
I’d start by checking for a blown fuse or a loose relay, since those are the usual culprits on Mk2s. I once chased a weird intermittent fault and ended up using diagrams from fubox.net, which made it way easier to track down the right circuit. A quick wiggle test on the battery grounds and the fusebox connectors can also point you in the right direction.
23
Mk2 Golf/Jetta Sales / 1989 VW Golf Mk2 Syncro + 07K 2.5 Five Cylinder Haldex Conversion Project
Last post by 07ksyncro -
A genuinely  "uncommon"  opportunity that will not come along again. This is a complete, fully researched and largely receipted 07K five-cylinder Haldex AWD conversion project, based on a solid, running, driving genuine Mk2 Golf Syncro. Every major part has been sourced from the right specialists — this is not a box of random bits thrown together, it's a coherent, thought-through build ready for someone to finish.

The Car
1988 VW Golf Mk2 Syncro, silver with correct two-tone grey cladding, F-reg (1989). 5-door. Genuine Syncro — not a conversion. ~78,500 miles on the original VDO cluster. The bodywork is genuinely solid — sills, floors and arches are all clean and rust-free. The only blemish is minor door bottom blistering on the driver's door, completely typical for age. This is not a car hiding structural issues. Runs and drives. Period BBS-style cross-spoke alloys. Twin front auxiliary lights. Towbar fitted. Original plaid cloth interior in good condition. Syncro dash badge present.
MTS Technik Comfort coilover kit (MTSGWVW44-C) currently fitted. Original suspension retained and included — rears were collapsed hence the upgrade.

The Conversion Parts
Drivetrain

2008 VW Jetta 2.5L BGP code 07K five-cylinder engine (110kW/150hp) — correct engine for this swap
Audi TT Mk1 02M six-speed manual gearbox — bell housing already machined/shaved to accept the 07K
07K crankshaft pulley
07K oil filter housing with thermostat

Fabrication & Swap Hardware

Fabless Manufacturing Mk2 2.5L 07K Engine Swap Kit (MK2 factory K-frame / factory width / 4-bolt factory spindles) — the definitive kit for this conversion
Fabless Manufacturing Centre Rad Support Brace (07K)
Fabless Manufacturing MK3 VR6 fan shroud (for radiator)
Fabless Manufacturing MK7 gas pedal adapter (RHD)
Eurowise 07K Power Steering Conversion / AC Delete Bracket

Intake & Engine Dress
IE (Integrated Engineering) 2.5L 5-cylinder Performance Intake Manifold — black finish ($875 new)
IE 2.5L 5-cylinder Billet Valve Cover — raw finish ($495 new)
IE Billet Fuel Rail — black finish
IE Fuel Pressure Regulator Housing — black
IE Vacuum Pump Blockoff Plate

AWD System
DutchBuild Syncro rear beam modified to accept Gen 1 Haldex — professional specialist conversion
Audi TT 8N Mk1 Quattro Gen 1 Haldex rear differential — correct unit for this application
Genuine VW Mk2 Golf Syncro/Rallye rear trailing arms (wider track — correct for Syncro)
2x rear ABS reluctor rings

Suspension & Chassis
VW Mk2 front axle subframe/engine carrier
MK2 GTI steering knuckle + hub + bearing set
VW Golf wheel hub (Febi)
VW Golf wheel bearing kit (Febi)
Kinetix 305mm drilled and grooved front brake discs (4-stud, anti-corrosion coated)

Powerflex Heritage Bushing Kit — complete set specific to Mk2 4WD:
PFR85-260H Rear beam bushes
PFR85-262H Rear trailing arm bushes
PFR85-263-20H G60/Rallye rear ARB bushes
PFR85-264-20H Rear ARB bushes
PFF85-265H Front wishbone rear bushes
Front wishbone front bushes 30mm

Why This Build?
The 07K Haldex Syncro Mk2 is one of the most exciting sleeper builds possible — a completely stock-looking Mk2 Golf hiding a tuneable 150hp+ inline five-cylinder and permanent four-wheel drive. With the IE intake and a tune you're looking at 170-190hp in an 1,100kg car that looks entirely standard. There are very few of these in existence anywhere in the world. The Fabless kit, DutchBuild beam and IE parts alone represent well over £3,000 of specialist components that cannot simply be found on eBay.

Why Is It For Sale?
I'll be honest — I had every intention of building this car, and I think the parts list speaks for itself in terms of how seriously I was pursuing it. Every major component was carefully researched and sourced from the right specialists. Unfortunately a surprise baby means I simply no longer have the time or headspace to run a project car alongside new parent life. Something has to give, and it's not going to be the baby.

Asking £10,000 ONO for the complete package — car and all parts.
Parts will not be split at this price. If no serious interest in the bundle after a reasonable period, parts will be sold individually.
Swaps Considered

Open to interesting part-exchanges — something practical enough for new family life but with a bit of character. Must have Isofix. Happy to discuss top-up either way.
All major purchases are receipted. Viewing strongly encouraged — the car is exactly as shown and all parts are present.
Serious enquiries only. Located in South Gloucestershire.
24
Engine & Gearbox / Cable I.D
Last post by Ritcher04 -
Hi, all i'm relatively new to the classics scene and I've recently got a mk2 1.6 auto with the original pierburg 2E2 Carb but when I got it the carb was in the passenger footwell lol, i've since refitted it and got the vacuum lines connected as I think they should be but there is another cable with a large bolt fitting at  the end and a thin tightly wound spring which comes out of the firewall near the green vacuum tank and I can't for the life of me find where it should go, but it certainly looks important!

Can anyone advise?
Thanks in advance,

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RnmG5pXgEFMgkAt2A

https://photos.app.goo.gl/D2NyrHaVeQkQLqGt8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mtgwPjnYoE4QhsLYA
25
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by Monkey -
Yeah, I was super disappointed with the Acelleras when I saw the width compared to my old NS2Rs.
27
I.C.E & Electrical / Re: 1.6 Doesn't start even after the parts cannon
Last post by Keekster64 -
Quote from: Ritcher04 on
Quote from: Keekster64 on
You should be getting 12 volts at the coil.  I'm not sure which terminal though, should be the positive one.  Check your fuses, and I'd recommend having a look at the wiring diagram in the haynes manual.  I've used it a few times and its very helpful.  You may have a broken wire.

Thanks very much, I have the haynes manual for it so i will find that wiring diagram
If you are not getting current to the coil, you could try bypassing it and feeding it direct from the battery (temporary), to see if it starts.  However, you'd need the haynes manual to identify the correct terminal on the coil
28
Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by ianmac86 -
Quote from: Monkey on
That looks terrifying!

If I tried that, all I'd end up with is a bunch of fancy coasters!

haha hope thats not the case for me! Amazing how confidence inspiring it is having someone doing it with you thats done it many times.

A couple more photos before refitting



Aslo bought a vibra-technics front engine mount to try. Initially liked it but the harshness soon wore thing and back to OE!


As you can see the gearbox is back in. Keep forgetting to tilt jack the car higher so that the gearbox doesnt hit the chassis leg! So again took me far too long to refit.


Some Millers gearbox oil 2 litres put in although will top up to 2.1!



Made a mistake! Fitted the wrong bolt on the front cable bracket. It was too long and fouling the clutch fork, had  mild meltdown fearing something was wrong and all the hard work on the box was in doubt.

Correct one found


So the box went in and went for a test drive, couldn't believe the noise was still there! 😭 I used Dan's driveway as a ramp, we took it in turns to lie accross the engine driving down in gear, out of gear, clutch in and out, engine on and off fearing the box. We were about to try a spare 02j that was lying around when Dan said it sound s bit like something is dragging. When i looked under the car i remembered... the exhaust heat shield had come detached at Bedford and i had cabled tied it back up temporary and hadnt cut eh tail off the end of the cable ties. These were dragging on the floor! Cut them off and the noise went! Absolutely unbelievable 😂 rebuilt a gearbox because of two cable ties i hadnt cut the ends off. Still the input shaft had proven to be rough and I have a future proofed box now.

Amazing difference. 2x 15x7 rims both with 195 50 tyres. The Accelera is so much skinnier than the R888


Track wheel coming off

Road wheels back on







30
I.C.E & Electrical / Re: 1.6 Doesn't start even after the parts cannon
Last post by Ritcher04 -
Quote from: Keekster64 on
You should be getting 12 volts at the coil.  I'm not sure which terminal though, should be the positive one.  Check your fuses, and I'd recommend having a look at the wiring diagram in the haynes manual.  I've used it a few times and its very helpful.  You may have a broken wire.

Thanks very much, I have the haynes manual for it so i will find that wiring diagram