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21
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by Monkey -
I do really like those Chris Fix videos, shame he's slowed down producing them.

So how slow was the cranking getting?
As oil pressure builds up, you will notice it slow a little, also, your battery is probably starting to get tired (unless you're charging it between fault finding sessions).
One thing you didn't mention, did the oil light go out?
If it goes out, you've got good oil pressure again and can attempt a start.

Another thing you could try is to take out all four spark plugs, this will remove the resistance caused by the engines compression, it should spin pretty quickly then and get oil everywhere it needs to go.
22
Technical / Help a new Mark 2 owner!
Last post by Tony Later -
I bought my first VW classic January this year, a mark 2 golf gti 16v, 1991, being around classics for over 30 years this one is proving particularly troublesome!
I had poor running problems a few months into ownership, would run rough, little or no acceleration after warm up.
Booked it into a specialist:
£1000 later, service, timing, gear box timing inspection bung, thermostat housing, fuel pump housing, lift pond in tank replaced.

The car runs exactly the same, runs perfect for the first 5 miles, as soon as its warmed up little or no acceleration.
I am really struggling to find a garage that either knows how to resolve this issue…..I really want to enjoy the car ion these simmer months :(
Any advice would be really appreciative
23
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by Ashton0678 -
Would another idea be that maybe the system has drained completely while it was stood and when I turned it over fist time it siphoned out the last bit of oil from the system and caused an air block maybe?

Going to try and fill the oil filter up with oil and crank it without the dizzy king lead on to see if it gets it circulating.
Clutching at straws here 😫
25
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by Monkey -
Good to hear the engine is still spinning, fingers crossed, you may get away with it.
Must admit, I keep coming back every couple of days just to see how you're getting on!

Thinking about it, it might be that there was just an air lock around the oil pump and it didn't pick any up.
I wouldn't try and overfill the engine, just fill it up to full, pull the king lead and then turn it over for a minute.
The slower speed of the pump should pick the oil up and send it around everywhere, once you see the oil light go out, you know you have pressure. Give it a minute or two and look at the oil level again (you may need a small amount more), then replace the lead and attempt a restart.
26
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by Ashton0678 -
The engine is turning freely with little resistance which is great news.

Yeh @t2000 its weird. The little.metal ring was in there too which was more concerning but a quick goole and it looks like a rocker cover spacer maybe? Apparently does happen if someone has replaced the rocker cover before and dropped one in 😫

Going to try and do what you said @monkey and maybe put more oil in and try it without the dizzy lead attached so it wont start and see if that works.

I suppose its been left to drip dry for a few days and as such the level needs to be 'too high' on the dipstick markers for it to pick up and recirculate right?
27
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by Monkey -
Quote from: t2000 on
Quote from: Ashton0678 on
Thanks both really appreciate the reply and the help.
@Monkey the engine has been solid for the last 5 years but hardly gets used nowadays tbh.
I'll go through the steps and update.
In the meantime I've created a link to the pictures I took of the stuff in the Sump and from underneath which may give a bit more context.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YbC9eGoywSwK4fhY6

Those red bits look like the dipstick tube red bit has broken before and gone into the sump, probably been replaced.

Agreed, I can't think of any other red plastic that gets anywhere near getting that close to the oil supply.
Can't get my head around what that collet it though, was it in the sump? Looks like one of those collets that go around bolts in modern engine rocker gaskets.

Either way, that oil doesn't appear glittery, so that's a big positive.
You could just have a dead oil pump.
28
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Oil Buzzer after changing sump 😰
Last post by t2000 -
Quote from: Ashton0678 on
Thanks both really appreciate the reply and the help.
@Monkey the engine has been solid for the last 5 years but hardly gets used nowadays tbh.
I'll go through the steps and update.
In the meantime I've created a link to the pictures I took of the stuff in the Sump and from underneath which may give a bit more context.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YbC9eGoywSwK4fhY6

Those red bits look like the dipstick tube red bit has broken before and gone into the sump, probably been replaced.
29
Engine & Gearbox / Re: 1991 auto 1.6 high idle RPM, lumpy turning off then backfires
Last post by Keekster64 -
First of all, does it have the original Pierburg 2E2 Carb?  These get a lot of stick, but once you get your head round how it works its not that bad.  There are various you tube videos that explain how it works and what you need to check.  I recommend you view them first.  In terms of what's wrong with it, it could be one of the following.
- The vacuum hoses at the back of the carb are split.
- The 3 point unit is not working properly (possibly because of the hoses or the diaphram inside has gone)
- The waxstat is faulty
- The linkage between the waxstat and the throttle arm needs adjusted
- The rubber mount is split

 The fact that the engine runs on suggests to me the throttle arm is not going to the off position (controlled by the 3 point unit), so I'd check the hoses first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taTBdkrQouI