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21
Engine & Gearbox / Re: High rpm when cold for 20 minutes,...?
Last post by Keekster64 -
Quote from: philip on
Another test done, turn on the car, idles at 1000 rpm, drive 1 minute, shoots up to 1400 rpm, drive only 10 minutes, come home, still at 1400 rpm. Turn it off, start right away, back at 1400 rpm. Turned it off, waited 45 minutes, start again, idles perfect ! It must be the waxstat ! I'm looking to buy one again but they seem to be impossible to find now. I only found this website but it's out of stock and frankly expensive anyways as i did change it over 10 years ago and i wouldn't have spent that much i'm sure,....Any ideas where i could fetch one ? Thanks.
https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/pierburg-2e2--2e3-carb-wax-stat-026129243c-7716-p.asp

I'm assuming you touched the coolant hoses to the waxstat to check they are getting hot, as you dont mention it?  That aside, I would removed the waxstat, complete with its hoses (when its cold) and submerge it in a cup of boiling hot water.  You should see the metal pin in the centre push out.  This is supposed to reset it, ie, without spring pressure restraining it.  If it leaks wax or coolant from around the pin, its knackered.  If not, then refit it and see if it improves.
22
Engine & Gearbox / Re: High rpm when cold for 20 minutes,...?
Last post by philip -
Another test done, turn on the car, idles at 1000 rpm, drive 1 minute, shoots up to 1400 rpm, drive only 10 minutes, come home, still at 1400 rpm. Turn it off, start right away, back at 1400 rpm. Turned it off, waited 45 minutes, start again, idles perfect ! It must be the waxstat ! I'm looking to buy one again but they seem to be impossible to find now. I only found this website but it's out of stock and frankly expensive anyways as i did change it over 10 years ago and i wouldn't have spent that much i'm sure,....Any ideas where i could fetch one ? Thanks.
https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/pierburg-2e2--2e3-carb-wax-stat-026129243c-7716-p.asp
23
Engine & Gearbox / Re: High rpm when cold for 20 minutes,...?
Last post by philip -
Thank you all for your help, while i study the video,...I will try to upload a video of the hole process so you can see how it goes as there is something about the 3 point unit that seems wrong,..will try to show,...I'll update as soon as possible.

Thanks again,

Phil.
24
Engine & Gearbox / Re: High rpm when cold for 20 minutes,...?
Last post by Keekster64 -
Whilst I remember, there is a rubber seal between the intake manifold and the cylinder head.  When they get old they swell, and this can restrict the flow of coolant to the waxstat.  Eventually they can break up and get stuck in the intake manifold and block it.  To check make sure the hoses to the waxstat are increasing in temp at the same rate as the top radiator hose.  If not you may have to remove the intake manifold.  I did it recently and its deceptively tricky.  You need the right tools to do it.
28
Engine & Gearbox / Re: High rpm when cold for 20 minutes,...?
Last post by Keekster64 -
Quote from: philip on
Thank you very much for your very very helpful comments and video. I will study this when i have a bit more time. I see you got the same golf as mine and even the color tornado red :). I have done my test so basicly instead of driving for 20 minutes for the rpm's to drop back to normal, i started the car, ran it 10 minutes as it does at 1400 rpm+-, turned it off for 30 minutes and started it again and the idle was perfect ! So, correct me if i'm wrong but seems to me the 3 point unit is just very slow to retract ? or is it is the waxstat thing with the needle that is frozen ? I did change it 10 years ago to a metal one instead of plastic,..Food for thaughts,...Thanks again. Phil.
My best guess, without seeing it, is that the waxstat is slow to react.  So when you switch off the heat from the engine rises up to the carb and causes the wax to melt and push the idle down.  Why its slow to react is a good question (lack of coolant flow perhaps).  Have a watch of my DIY video first.  I describe how the warm up procedure works, and what and how the various parts of the carb operate together.  Once you understand the process you'll be able to understand what is going wrong.  In short, if the waxstat is to blame, there will be a gap between the throttle arm and the 3 point unit.  If its the 3 point unit to blame, the throttle arm, once hot, will be touching the throttle arm. 
There is a useful PDF of the pierburg manual, which shows the various vacuum hoses and what they connect to.  There are also a few other older videos that explain how the vacuum system works, but the short version, is the thermo time value and the solenoid reduce and increase the amount of vacuum that the three point unit receives, to control the position of the 3 point unit.  Any leaks in the hoses therefore mess up the position of the 3 point unit.  I believe you can bypass the thermo time valve and solenoid and the three point unit will always sit in the middle position (hot engine), but of course that makes driving it cold a nuisance as it will stall.
29
Interior, Upholstery & Trim / Window trim
Last post by RichMyers -
Hi. I have started to rebuild my golf that I basically bought in kit form and I am missing a couple of parts from the window set up. Difficult to find but if anyone can point me in the right direction I am missing the piece of trim that goes between the rear driver side 1/4 and the window.

Also two small chrome bits that go on the corner of the front doors in front of the 1/4 windows.

The car is a 1984 and the one where the mirrors are on the doors.
30
Engine & Gearbox / Re: High rpm when cold for 20 minutes,...?
Last post by philip -
Thank you very much for your very very helpful comments and video. I will study this when i have a bit more time. I see you got the same golf as mine and even the color tornado red :). I have done my test so basicly instead of driving for 20 minutes for the rpm's to drop back to normal, i started the car, ran it 10 minutes as it does at 1400 rpm+-, turned it off for 30 minutes and started it again and the idle was perfect ! So, correct me if i'm wrong but seems to me the 3 point unit is just very slow to retract ? or is it is the waxstat thing with the needle that is frozen ? I did change it 10 years ago to a metal one instead of plastic,..Food for thaughts,...Thanks again. Phil.