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31
Technical / Re: rev counter issue
Last post by Monkey -
Ahh, I see. I was assuming it was a wiring issue with the car, not the clocks.

I've seen wiring repairs done on the plastic circuit board before, though I'd assume you have to be very precise where you apply the heat.
At this point, I'd have a go, you haven't got a huge amount to lose (as long as you have a spare set of clocks, that is!).
32
Technical / Re: rev counter issue
Last post by mintysgt -
Quote from: Monkey on
Based off your other post, you're in a CE1 car.
Not sure what you're referring to when you say KL1.

But I'd test continuity between B19 and the coil.
If there is a failure there, test between D26 and the coil.
That way you can see if there is a failure between the fusebox and the coil, or the fusebox internally.
If you have continuity between B19 and the coil, the chances it are it's your clocks internally (which is where you may already be looking).
It's odd how you say you have voltage and it drops, I used to think it spiked (quite high) to give an RPM signal.


Hi Monkey, mk2 golf stories sent me his spare clocks, i can confrim the rev counter works on that set when plugged in to my car. KL1 is the track number on the laminated circuit board

Now my set have no continuity between the pin on the white plug side and the 2 points that track goes to. where as the set on lone to me does, and of course works. So it looks like i have to find a working set and swap it over or change speedo etc.

Im not so sure soldering a wire to the LCB is a good idea, as i think i will just melt it, wire glue could work i guess

Any suggestions on how to repair them ?
33
Technical / Re: Mk2 Golf GTi 16v fuel pump housing leak
Last post by james_nich -
Yup, wise words there. Bit the bullet and ponied up for the Pro Alloy housing.

I'm getting new rubber hoses and clips ordered up for the overhaul, but was wondering if you had any advice for the hard lines between the pump, filter and accumulator? Should I look to renew these as it'll all be in pieces or do they hold up OK over the years? The pre-made braided options seem expensive for what they are.

Thanks for your input.
34
New Members Say Hi! / Hi all! I’ve got a few bits of a 2 Dr Mk2 GTI for sale
Last post by Lynx -
A tenant has left some parts in property so I thought this may be the forum to sell them and give them a good new home. (I hope that is acceptable on this forum, if not please tell me).

I have the following:

Full tailgate (with glass, wiper, etc)
Front left wing
Full set of gti arch trims
Rear interior panels.
Various interior bits of plastics and trims etc.
Various ECU computer type things (can be identified on request, I’ve not done it yet).

Thanks for taking a look, hopefully I can help someone with one of the bits they’re looking for.

Thanks
35
Technical / Re: Mk2 Golf GTi 16v fuel pump housing leak
Last post by Monkey -
To be honest, I'd probably bite the bullet and go for the ally one.
Any second hand one will be at least 30 years old at this point.
The aluminium one is a fit and forget item and very well made (fitted one to a mates car a few years back).

One other option, while it's a big faff, it might be a little cheaper:
Depending on what you can get, you could potentially fit a mk3 VR6 (or GTI) tank, it's got a fully internal pump setup, however it doesn't have the pressure (if memory serves, VRs are around 3-4 bar, k-jet needs 5). But you could possibly upgrade that pump to suit.
A tank will set you back about £130 and a pump around £100.
36
Technical / Mk2 Golf GTi 16v fuel pump housing leak
Last post by james_nich -
Hi all, I've had to replace the lift pump and the fuel pump / filter in my 16v mk2.

I think the increased flow and pressure has caused a leak to appear the top of the plastic pump housing.

I know that VW stopped manufacturing these so I guess I have two options:

1. See if there is such a thing as a second hand non-leaking housing
2. Buy an aluminium repo at around £450  :'(

Does anyone have any smart ideas, alternatively have experience in doing this? Taking out the housing and pumps etc should be no hassle but some guidance of what to look out for or change whilst doing the work would be great. What clamps to use and what grade and dimeter of hoses etc.

Cheers,

James.
37
Mk2 Parts Wanted / MK2 16v fuel pump housing
Last post by james_nich -
Hi everyone, I'm after a fuel pump housing for a 16v GTi golf. The top of mine seems to have started weeping fuel since we put new pumps in.

Thanks in advance, I know these are like hens teeth. Or perhaps someone has smart ideas!
38
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Rough cold starts
Last post by Monkey -
Hmm, my mates Rallye had a similar issue, went through loads of trials etc and in the end just put a new battery on and that fixed it.
Turns out it had 12v when idle and not doing anything, but as soon as you put a load on, while it would crank the engine, it dropped to about 6 and essentially turned off the ECU.

If you've got a known good battery, I'd try swapping it over.
39
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Rough cold starts
Last post by JacksonBrownPants -
I could turn it over indefinitely without the jump leads on, it just wouldn’t find enough energy to start it seemed. As soon as it was connected up to the other car it started, and this morning it started fine with zero delay.

I thought maybe a battery issue, but it is a relatively new battery. Has died a few times from sitting and me leaving the lights on like a numpty.
40
Technical / Re: rev counter issue
Last post by Monkey -
Based off your other post, you're in a CE1 car.
Not sure what you're referring to when you say KL1.

But I'd test continuity between B19 and the coil.
If there is a failure there, test between D26 and the coil.
That way you can see if there is a failure between the fusebox and the coil, or the fusebox internally.
If you have continuity between B19 and the coil, the chances it are it's your clocks internally (which is where you may already be looking).
It's odd how you say you have voltage and it drops, I used to think it spiked (quite high) to give an RPM signal.