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I.C.E & Electrical / Best Coil and Lead Replacement?
Last post by Martin109 -Which all leads to my question – what’s the best quality coil and coil lead for my vehicle? Someone suggested a sports one as high quality, but the man at Merlin Motorsport said best to go with VW (meaning Bosch presumably).
Very grateful for any suggestions.
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Mk2 Parts for Sale & Breaking / Re:
Last post by Caddyman26 -still available
Click this link and you will see photos of the item.
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Mk2 Parts for Sale & Breaking / Re: BRAND NEW IN BOX MK2 GOLF SONY XR-3501 CASSETTE CAR STEREO
Last post by Caddyman26 -Open to sensible offersstill available
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Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by Monkey -I really like those wheels on the car, makes it look tough.
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Members' Cars / Re: G135EPB 8v GTI
Last post by ianmac86 -
The foam flaps I replaced about 10 years ago haven’t held up too well although the clouds of steam probably didn’t help!
I wrapped the edges with foil tape for extra stickiness (and because I may have accidentally ordered non-sticky foam…).
Went for a Mahle matrix decent brand and hopefully means I won’t be doing this job again any time soon!
Perfect chance to flush out the rest of the pipework too – the grime that came out was disgusting. Not what you want blowing into the car.
All back together:
Cleaned the remaining ducting with the pressure washer while it was out.
Carpet dried and wrestled back in. I still hate refitting the foot rest!
Collected the cylinder head from Knights:
Started the rebuild. Lapping the valves was tedious and my hands weren’t thanking me either! I got some help from Dan as i hadnt done any of this before and was highly likley to do something wrong unsupervised!
Cams and chain back in. Vintage cutting paste I dug out of my dad’s old toolbox.
Made a bit of an impulse buy . I’ve wanted a set of these for ages but refused to pay new prices. Found a bargain set from a really nice chap in Rugby who used to race in the Teekay Mk2 Cup and was selling off spares. I couldn’t say no.
Back on the engine – blasted the head bolt threads out with compressed air to prevent hydro-locking when torquing down. Glad someone mentioned this, as they were full of oily coolant or coolantly oil.
New expansion tank and cap. The old cap didn't releasing pressure when the matrix went?
Block face cleaned up:
With kids and dogs constantly distracting me, I wrote down each head bolt tightening step to keep track of the sequence.
Head torqued up:
Timed up:
Rocker cover back on – fingers crossed for no leaks this time, it’s given me grief in the past.
Exhaust manifold back on. This was more of a fight than expected – ended up supporting the exhaust with blocks of wood to get the manifold lined up.
Collected the wheels from powder coat and had new tyres fitted. Went for gloss black with Accelera 651 Sport – I ran them on the Sebrings before and they were great for the price. Not AR1 or R888R level, but half the cost, so no complaints.
Test fit:
Cleaned, ceramic coated, and new centre caps fitted:
Had to wait for the stud and taper nut conversion. Annoyingly, the studs only came with 19mm nuts, which makes it tricky to get a socket on without risking the fresh powder coat. Ordered a spare breaker bar and thin wall 19mm socket for the boot, plus a set of radius nuts for the spare wheel.
One side done – wasn’t sure at first, but they’ve really grown on me.
Saw this on Facebook – type in a certain command with a photo of your car and it spits out a toy version. Couldn’t resist.
Back to the engine again. Started bolting things back on before I forgot what went where. Even managed to get the heat shield on (needed a bit of trimming to fit with the 4-1 Milltek).
Stopped taking photos at this point, but basically got the rest bolted up, timing belt back on (was only 12 months old) replaced oil and filter, then cranked it without the coil lead to build pressure.
Good news: no leaks, ran up to temperature, and fans kicked in! The fan itself wasn’t happy though – catching on the cowling. I’ve ordered a new OE unit anyway as it didn't sound too happy either. Briefly looked at 2x 10" slim-line aftermarket fans but the wattage/CFM ratings were down on OE, especially without the cowling.
A few jobs left todo:
MOT runs out 18/9/25
Test drive
Replace Oil and filter after a few hundred miles
I want to re fit the Powerflex topmounts after trimming them down a touch
Needs more camber adding so probably refit camber bolts and try my new alignment gauges
I really want to get the Quaife fitted to the new gearbox
Hopefully then i w ill have a good car to enjoy... over the winter! 😂
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Mk2 Parts Wanted / PB Head
Last post by Beachboy014 -Looking for a ported and polished PB head and cam if anyone knows of one anywhere would be much appriciated.
I am in Kent but willing to travel
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Technical / Re: rev counter issue
Last post by Monkey -I'd start there next, there's a procedure to time it up, that takes the blue sender out of the equation.
Also, there could be an air leak somewhere:
When it's cold, you're putting in extra air, so the mixture is more balanced, once warm, it's out and your under fuelling.
Get a can of brake cleaner and spray it around the inlet boot and vacuum, lines.
If it changes and picks up at all, you know you've got a leak.
Just be careful around the exhaust manifold.
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Technical / Re: rev counter issue
Last post by scs -100
Technical / Re: rev counter issue
Last post by Monkey -That runs on K-Jet, is yours the same, or digifant?