Monkeys Guide to a Mk2 R32
(thanks to Monkey)
Ok, here we go again!
Disclaimer part 2:
I've been asked a couple times about my recent R32 conversion, how it was done and what's needed etc, so I've decided to put this guide together to give people a reference and a relative idea on how it's done.
This is not the worlds best guide, I'm an amateur that does this in his spare time, but it's mine, I've 100% done myself, so I'm speaking from experience.
As per usual, you follow my advice at your own peril and as with everything in my life, I accept no responsibility for anything, ever... not even a little bit!
Lets cover some basics
Parts List
3.2 Parts:
Engine
ECU
Loom
Throttle Pedal
VR6 Parts:
Subframe
Engine mount brackets
Gearbox
Flywheel
Starter
Clutch
Radiator
Top and Bottom Hoses
Corrado Parts:
Pedalbox,
Clutch Master & Slave Cylinders with associated pipework
Cross member (VR6)
Additional Parts:
Mk4 Shifter Setup
Corrado PAS pipework
Unlike the 20vt conversion, where there are dozens of combinations of engine/gearbox options to go for, the 3.2 only really gives you a couple.
The Donor
Engine possibilities are as follows
Mk4 R32
These are arguably the best engines to use for the conversion, due to fuelling and management/wiring options. However, with the Mk4 R32 only running for a couple of years before being replaced by the Mk5, they are hard to come by and usually expensive.
Mk5 R32/ A3 3.2
Now unlike the Mk4 units, these were made for a very long time and are relatively plentiful. They also have more power out the box to the mk4 ones. However, being direct injection, they present fuelling issues that will have to be overcome when installing in a mk2.
TT 3.2
These seem to provide the best of both worlds, they're a bit of a mix of the above two, lots of them about, normal injection and 250bhp out the box. Just gotta get around the CAN issues for the rev counter!
Gearbox
As it's a 6 pot engine, you can only fit a VR6, or a V5 gearbox. Both seem to work perfectly fine, the VR6 box seems to have longer ratios than the V5. My VR box will hit 75 in second, 110 in third and I've not managed to max fourth yet! While we're on the subject of gearboxes, I can highly recommend fitting a mk4 shifter setup. Get a late mk4 era shifter, cables and tower, it is a massive improvement over the feel of the mk3 ones. Just get it all from the same car, as there are variances through the mk4 platform.
Pedalbox
Ok, now I know people use Seat cable clutch conversions and they get on with them well. I had one once and hated it, so I will always stick a hydraulic pedal box in from a Corrado. They are almost a direct fit and make the gear change feel much better. Only thing is, the 3.2 unit uses a fly by wire throttle pedal. So you have to remove the Corrado pedal and make a bracket to hold the DBW one...
Exhaust
You're going to need a custom downpipe for this one. Fortunately, Trackslag do one just for the very purpose of fitting a 3.2 into a mk2 golf. They fit like a glove and work a treat. While you're there, use one of their 2.5" systems, without a doubt, the best engineered exhaust system I've fitted to a mk2.
Management/Wiring
As per usual, I like to use standard VW management, you can use the diagnostics, it's bloody reliable and VW invested millions in the development of it. As for the wiring, I could write a whole guide on that by itself. Fortunately, Rubjonny already has and it's better than anything I could write. So it's here. He's written it for mk4s in general, it's still viable for the 3.2 conversion, but you have to ignore the wire colours and just go by the plug pin numbers, follow it and you can't go wrong. As with all 97 onward VAG engines, they come with immobilisers that need to be defeated professionally, I used Revo and had a stage 1 map put on at the same time.
Installation
When installing an engine into a mk2, there is a basic order to make it as easy as possible:
So first off, remove your engine/box/loom. While you're at it, you might want to clean and paint up your engine bay...
Pedalbox
This is the keystone to the conversion, it's the last thing to come out when stripping down and the first thing you put back in. Mainly because you need access to drill a hole in your bulkhead for the clutch master cylinder. Much easier with no engine in the way.
Wiring Loom
This has to go in next as the brake servo obscures the entry points in the bulkhead, so get it all planed out and fitted before moving on.
Brake Servo/Master Cylinder
This goes on next as it's an absolute sod to fit with the engine in the bay
Subframe
Next, get the VR subframe built up, fit the rack/ARB on. I also fitted the PAS lines before it was fitted, recommend you do too, bloody nightmare to fit with the subframe on the car! Also, fit the crossmember, I used a Corrado VR6 item, but I'm pretty sure you could use a mk2 one with the Mk2 VR6 solid engine mount.
Shifter and Cables
If you're using the Mk4 setup as mentioned, you need to cut a little of the exhaust tunnel away and drill a couple of holes to allow the studs to come through. once done you can easily knock up a small bracket to allow the lower bolts to go on. Truthfully, you can do this at any time before the exhaust is fitted, but it makes life a little easier with the engine out the bay.
Engine
Ok, time to build up the engine for fitting. You can junk off all of the SAI and carbon canister crap, infact a fair chunk of the vacuum system can go. Speaking of junking things, the standard clutch and flywheel can go straight in the bin too. Bolt up all the VR bits to the 3.2 engine, including the flywheel (new bolts!), clutch, gearbox, rear engine bracket, front engine bracket (may have to cut a little off to avoid fouling the oil cooler), starter, conversion downpipe and the mk4 shifter tower. To get the engine to sit properly, you need to remove 10mm from the rear engine mount, it's easy to do, just unscrew it cut the 10mm off and screw it back together again. Once done, the engine should sit in the bay nicely, oddly enough without the chassis leg notch the 12v VR conversion requires.
Exhaust
This goes on next
Pipework
Engine's in and you're desperate to fire it up for the first time, but you need to get the coolant hoses sorted. I recycled the TT ones from the donor car for most of it, but can definitely recommend the VR6 top and bottom hoses. You can cut them down a little and they fit just fine. Also use a Corrado VR6/G60 radiator, fits the standard mounts and easy to make the top brackets. I used a £150 ebay special ally rad, works very well.
So hopefully, your engine bay should look a little like this
Other things to consider:
While this covers the bare bones of fitting a 3.2 into a mk2, there are a few other things you will want to look into:
Brakes
Whatever engine you had originally in your golf, you'll be more than doubling the output, so unless you're curious about what lies on the other side of those hedges at the side of the road, I suggest you invest in some upgrades. I've found that G60 brakes will just about do the trick for fast road/mild track usage, but that is using Brembo discs, Ferodo racing pads and high temp fluid.
Suspension
Now Mk2 VRs get a bad reputation for bad handling. Most of it is from people who haven't upgraded the suspension to suit. Yes the VR is a heavier motor, but the Corrado VR6 was basically a golf and that had an award winning chassis in its day. I've upgraded the suspension for VR rated coilovers and put Eibach/Weitech anti roll bars on. It feels neutral in the corners and suffers from very little understear, unless you're trying to upset it.
LSD
Now I don't currently run an LSD, I've found it fine on the roads, around Rockingham and down at the Nurburging. However, at a tight circuit like Curborough, I suffered from major one tyre fire, so have purchased a Quaife item to prevent the following from happening again...
So that's about it, I'm sure I've missed some bits, but if you've made it this far, I'm impressed!
Topic: Monkeys Guide to a Mk2 R32 (Read 9538 times)
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