Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: 1.8 Auto 2E2 Carb Cold start revs profile - high revving? (Read 389 times) previous topic - next topic

1.8 Auto 2E2 Carb Cold start revs profile - high revving?

Hi all, quietly working through issues on our 75k mile 1988.
We had a rough idle, went through all the vacuum pipes and found a pin hole, pipe replace and all good.

One thing bothering me, on a cold start the engine revs to 2200/2400 rpm for around 10-15mins (ambient temp around 15 degrees c), then gradually reduces to a normal idle, to me this feels like longer than needed. Once warm, driving and revs are normal.Doing the usual t'internet dragging points me to either the auto choke needing a declog (car was very infrequently driven over the last 3 or 4 years) or idling overrun control valve? OR is this normal behaviour?

Thanks all again
Neil

Re: 1.8 Auto 2E2 Carb Cold start revs profile - high revving?

Reply #1 –
It's worth having a watch of a bunch of videos by this guy.  He helpfully explains how the 2E2 works, and once you understand it, its a lot easier to figure out whats wrong with it. It sounds like your 3 point unit is slow to retract to the idle position, as the waxstat should take over after the initial fireup, after somewhere between 6-30secs.  Or it could be the waxstat is badly adjusted.  It's unlikely to be the choke as that only controls the mixture at cold, not the revs.  However, the videos explain how its supposed to operate, all the various devices attached to the carb and from there you can figure out what the fault it.  I've watched them a few times and I now understand the basic operation of the carb.  Its actually quite clever.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTxrLDwexWA

Re: 1.8 Auto 2E2 Carb Cold start revs profile - high revving?

Reply #2 –
awsome, thats great info, thanks for taking the time

Re: 1.8 Auto 2E2 Carb Cold start revs profile - high revving?

Reply #3 –
I also recommend you check the two thermo switches that sit in the main coolant pipe in front of the head are working.  The red one is for the hedgehog, and the grey one is for the choke.  To check them use a multi meter when the engine is cold on the switch terminals.  A continuity check should find the meter beeps when the switch is cold.  If not replace them.  Mine were both broken.