Can you confrim the correct timing procedure for the 1.8 pb digifant engine please. As i will be honest i read its the only thing the haynes manual has correct for these mk2's but im not sure if that mocking the manual in this situation. as its not very clear if im honest. please for give i am old lol
Monkey as i got your attention on this thread, my car is struggling to start. removing blue plug doesn't seem to matter. its turning and barely firing, when it catches enough its rough as anything for maybe upto a min, then slowly gets better and better, to the point its idling and revving as normal, will re start fine afterwards, then same story next day. any ideas please
Based off your other post, you're in a CE1 car. Not sure what you're referring to when you say KL1.
But I'd test continuity between B19 and the coil. If there is a failure there, test between D26 and the coil. That way you can see if there is a failure between the fusebox and the coil, or the fusebox internally. If you have continuity between B19 and the coil, the chances it are it's your clocks internally (which is where you may already be looking). It's odd how you say you have voltage and it drops, I used to think it spiked (quite high) to give an RPM signal.
Hi Monkey, mk2 golf stories sent me his spare clocks, i can confrim the rev counter works on that set when plugged in to my car. KL1 is the track number on the laminated circuit board
Now my set have no continuity between the pin on the white plug side and the 2 points that track goes to. where as the set on lone to me does, and of course works. So it looks like i have to find a working set and swap it over or change speedo etc.
Im not so sure soldering a wire to the LCB is a good idea, as i think i will just melt it, wire glue could work i guess
Right people, since solving my last wiring issue. ive now picked up a whole new one, just for fun
My rev counter has stopped working, initially i thought i was going to get lucky as a wire had fallen of the coil. The car also failed to run. i came back to the car today. Started an idled lovely this time, though i started it with the blue plug detached, not sure why but just did. now plugged in still fine, but the whole thing ran like a dog midweek, failed to even run when i tried Friday. but since ok
But during this time, the rev counter is failing to work, the wire to pin KL1 on the white plug seems to work just fine. Also volt testing it while running i get voltage drop on the multi meter, which is the opposite of how i thought it would work, but it shows power is there. Now when i do a continuity test from the pin to the other end of the track on board i get nothing, i assume this is my issue.
But there is no sign of any damage, and it worked when i had the wiring issue previous to this
Right my problems are solved, in case anyone has similar issue,
After actually spending a couple of hours digging deeper, my whole dash loom would trigger the wipers, had popped a few fuses, which i wasnt aware off. anyway the dash board main ground wire. some how ended up being placed on one of the g block pins on the fusebook. now located correctly. The issues i asked about have been resolved including the additional findings.
after a small amount of time this evening, i kinda get washers working, but i have to remove the lower earth pin on the wiper stalk, then all is fine, but of course thats not a good thing to leave off. surely someone here knows something
Hey all, finally completed "well loosely speaking" the restoration on my barn find, engine pulled and replaced now all running, replaced many things on strip down i found broken, or damaged. now i'm pretty much all back together, i have found and not limited to of course. but what i have found so far
CE1 CAR
1. green indicator glow on dash, this did go away, think eddy peck pointed me in right direction last time, with hazard switch but no luck tapping and unplugging and plugging it back in this time. but hazards and indicators work fine otherwise im sure last time something odd was happening. Also confident the green glow only arrived again today
2. i have an issue that if i use my aux power in the ashtray "playing with simple things today it actually charges my phone, but wouldn't power the tyre pump yesterday", it triggers the wipers off all round regardless of powering my phone and not powering a pump
3. the wipers work back and front, rear wash jet works correctly, the front how ever sometimes works, but when it does , it will blow the fuse pretty much instantly, if not instantly anyway with out the pump buzzing, i must fess i put a 30 amp fuse in, which solved issue for 5 whole seconds then popped
During the restoration i found a broken pin on the fuse box, so sourced another one, having now chucked old one, i cant use it to test wipers and aux point, but i could be clutching at this one being faulty.
But i think i used aux when i had the old fuse box plugged in still to pump tyres up, i could be just dreaming that happened, again could be thinking it, trying sub consciously telling myself fusebox is at fault for the sake of it
So if any one can shed light, share there views on this situation, point me in a direction to try something. even if its remotely silly but pluasable
ok so this weekend, my jetta door lock decided to duck me off and fail "drivers side" after fitting new locks and waiting on heritage for over 7 months. lasted all of 3 weeks grrrr. But even the old lock and new lock, including on my golf, the passenger side lock only locks the door and doesn't unlock with the key. if it had i could of just opened it that side and reached across etc
now my question is, how do i remedy this, this cant be right surely and correct??
all the mech appears free and work correctly with the handle off the car
i brought the stainless steel 4-1 manifold, the one from ebay. How ever unlike the standard one, it doesn't have the little bit of heat shield on it, assuming to reduce the heat source under the main wiring loom across the top of the bulkhead
Now do i ignore it, fit the manifold and forget about it ?
or is worth wrapping the manifold down to heat shield would of been, and when stationary the heat just raises upto the loom any way. now perhaps slightly hotter due the nature of a wrap.
or wrap the loom as someone else suggested, so heat doesn't transfer in to it
hoping some one else has thought about this and can offer advice,
