As titled really, i changed the boot lid seal, i thought things was improving, but i just feel it is anymore. couple of times in the last month seems every time i open the boot there's just as much condensation as there was before now
Anyone got any ideas, even suffered this as well ?
could be that it still needs to dry out, but when i changed the seal i cant say the old one was all that bad. how ever did seem like it was leaking all the same
Got a 1.3 jetta recently, i believe its the 2e3 carb hence auto choke an not manual, i've done a lovely 400 mile trip in it, last 80 ish have been a nightmare, the thing would just keep cutting out, started doing it at night with lights on an fan, so noticed on restarts was idling fine when no load on electric system, so i assumed it was a battery or alternator issue at 1st "perhaps still a leccy gremlin". but started doing it in the day with no added power consumption etc
what i would like to know is, has anyone ever had something similar, as previous knowledge was they cut out and dont restart for a short while, an a quick google hints towards this
given its a peirburg. i always known there as useful as a chocolate teapot in reality an webber is the way forward "personally when i had a 1.6 an a 1.8 carb engine mine had the webber conversion done already, not that i recall a choke nearly 20 years later. but never had any issues, an mot time always see emissions adjusted to pass"
how ever, over last day or so i have read a few posts webbers solve nothing in the long term, how true is this ?
i really want to keep it as a 1.3. its guttless but its so original be a shame to do a conversion really
ok so it be next week before i look at it, but a quick look did see a small bit of oil on 2 sensors on the top flange on the block under the dizzy, but could this lead to my issues ?
my U/J boot is very bad needs replacing, i cant find any, anywhere. so does anyone here have the solution fot that,
or another model that will fit just as good ?
or has anyone fitted the LHD version, im tempted to get it anyway, i see no difference " but that could be due to stock pictures" i understand the postion is different so maybe the lower half is angled different,
Hey guys, im assuming its a immo issue rather then faulty ignition barrel. Last week a customer gave me there mums old mk3 golf which has been sat we think 12 years.
When we 1st got the car to ours, i disconnected the king lead, so we could at least try cranking it. in which there was many of us there all doing something different and not just the 2 of us doing things in which we could later discuss. anyway we connected up the jump leads an we appeared to have a fully working cluster, petrol guage showed fuel, all the regular symbol lights popped up etc, we couldnt get the car to crank, after a few mins discovered a conlog fob with no batterys in the glove box, how ever 4 dead batterys i assume was found in ashtray, but also could be popped into a mount, with abit of working back an forth into the mount, a led seem to brielfly stay on the fob, there was how ever a red an orange flashing leds on the dash both flickering different times different patterns to them an should put the indiactors stopped flashing like it was being robbed or broke into(perhaps the leds also went out). an the car cranked, letting it turn a couple of times. connected the king lead back up. an decided to see if it would fire into life with what i expected to be vintage nail varnish in the fuel tank. how ever it was against my wishes to do this.
Sadly we couldnt seem to recreate what ever it was again to get the car to crank. deciding that perhaps jump leads possibly wasnt really good enough, were come back with a new battery tomorrow an some batterys for the key fob,
Tomorrow came, armed with batterys all round, power washer again at hand, hoover, just the 2 of us finally, one of us set about hoovering a dead mouse an its former nest up, while the other carried on power washing the body back to the original colour. time came to fit the car battery, we tried to crank it. but this time no flashing orange light on dash maybe not even the red one i also feel indiacators going like were robbing the car, but more strange to me i noticed the cluster symbols would flash up an go stright out this time when the ignition was turned on, i really feel they didnt do this previuosly becuase we knew it had fuel, an alot of it aswell, an now we deffo didnt see a fuel level. so we then put the new out of date batterys by 1 month we got from watch repair place into the fob, the led now works from the key fob it self. made no difference pissed around for awhile with the fob into its mount couldnt get it to do anything,
now im gonna leave some of the trivia happens out between that part an now, as i feel bares no help at all, But lead us to discover that the mouse inside had eaten 2 wires we traced on the alarm/immo so we conected them back up, no difference made,
We then traced further wires back towards the fusebox finding yet another dead mouse, taking the fusebox off we had no indiactors showing us anything (hazards would work if you put them at any given point in this) we found where the wires connected to the mainloom it self, really looks like oem install then aftermaket where it joins in to the main loom. now lifting the fusebox and twisting it to get it where we could see more of this or more of that, the indiactors would trigger off in the style of us stealing it again, looking at the cluster leaving the ignition switched on you can it briefly come on
alittle more fiddling under the fusebox area, some water trickled out the covered up loom where immo/alarm wires join in, abit more fiddling an we noticed the ignition lights actually started to stay on longer before going out, an much longer, before now if you blinked you could almost of missed them coming on, an now you could time them if you wanted to, id say a few soconds at least
Was at this point we decided to stop play an come back another day, perhaps power washing the car we have forced water inside an now has a short till it drys ?
but i know alot of you guys would of had a mk3, even using them in conversions an may of come across something like this if not quite this. so kinda hoping maybe someone here could shed light, make suggestion of where to go next with it.
i have also said to my friend, its at this point we cant be playing with the car when everyone around us wants to join in, we dont know what anyone has done if they have done anything by mistake, an not only that we cant build a picture of what it is when something changes, Thou im confident no one has done something sinister, how ever they was all trying to be helpful, opening an closeing doors, an locking patterns in hope it might un immobilze etc etc. i dont thing the mice have eaten any wires from what we can see, just sadly the wires to the alarm head ran via the pollen filter in which they chewed up to get into the car it self. how ever the car did turn on day one, but dont now
Hello carrots, planets, boys an girls ,or what ever you identify as lol
finally got round to putting some serious time in on the mk2 gti this week, an im now at the stage of starting it. How ever when i turn the ignition on, i have spark on the plug nearest the ccambelt end. an only when ignition is switched on for the 1st time. then nothing on any of the plugs when im cranking, including the one that showed life, thou im assuming its only shorting out on ignition on
i would like to add, only thing. i havent put back on the golf is there alternator, thou i dont think this would stop it sparking ? i have no imobilzer that im aware off, my cap an leads are ok, but again assuming i get a single spark there possibly not the issue
Has anyone here, ever managed to solve issues with them before.
ive ordered many times, but this year, i had a parcel with missing items, an another parcel with a random part. instead of the bit i ordered
ive tried emails, i tried via ebay messages, each time i did get a response finally, they then dont bother to reply again. given i worked 3 doors up by chance 2 fridays ago, only to speak to a member of dispatch in the warehouse, who couldnt help, but did equally tell me there after sales in the office beyond useless
Hey people, wondering if anyone here can help with a wiring question on this topic.
my mk2 started life as a petrol engine, been coverted to a diesel, the one issue that bugs me a lot is the fact my rev counter doesnt work, while at the mot station, the tester put this unit across the battery an got a read out of the revs. So i find my self wanting to address this issue again.
now from what i see diesel engines get there pulse from the alternator, an thats how the rev counter works. Right ?
a petrol engine gets it from the coil ? is that right ?
anyone shed light on this, becuase then at least i now know what the issue could well be
As some of you know i got a mk2 with an engine in it that, im really not keen on. ive got a second car now, so this one was going to go, but with the lad turning 17 soon ish, his rather keen on it, now a 1.3 or 1.6 carb engine dont turn up often.
Yet ive got a mk3 1.4 auto, that is mine should i want it, im going to take some parts full stop, as little earner on ebay,
But engine is 30k from new, still runs, sounds nice, the car it self is not worth saving, but would this be an easy engine swap, or do i mot mine as planned, flog it. Then just find a 1.3/1.6 that already runs etc
Hey guys, im replacing my rear disc's i assume bearing are pressed intot them, or at least while im there, i may aswell replace them,
My question is i have 89 ce1 1gz gti, what bearings am i likely to find here, as it appears 4 options
- theres a drum version it looks like, which is listed for my car "which mine is not" bearing kit - theres a rear disc option "which of course mine is disc" single bearing not listed for my car -theres another disc option for raylle an synco "which mine is not" single bearing - then theres Gsf which list an inner an outer bearing for my car reg seperatly. But is of course there only option which to me renders the other options as useful as a choclate teapot,
Wondering if anyone can tell me, what the size of the piston on the brakes are on gti 8v 1989, can i assume 38mm as thats all that seems to be avaible ?
Hey all, im parting ways with the orignal car i purchased last year, but in order to atract the best money, i want to re mot it, i feel it may of had a shady one or 2 in previous hands, a few things very suspect that it really should of failed on for sure, but putting these things right 1st,
the question i have here is, O/S rear door does not open at all, has anyone got any suggestions in how to appraoch it
In my mindset is the following,
-door card can not be removed while door is closed ? -door latch knob things, cant be accessed in wheel arch ? -only door handle can be unscrewed, also surround to door realease tab can be removed.
so am i wrong in the above, can i avoid damging the door card, or is that all i have option wise ?
Hey all, looking for both connectorsf or the side light bulbs, both mine have been deleted, an i need a temp sensor connector, prefer not to but a loom justto get these parts
Its been so long since i had a sunroof, just curiuos its not currently leaking, but its in real bad shape, if i dont open it an clean the body side of it up, an disturb it, will it start to leak, or does over hang the drip collector, not prepared to open it, but would like to polish the panels up, i will replace it, but on the list of bits to do its just not important yet, but the car is just so filthy
where immo/alarm wires join in, abit more fiddling an we noticed the ignition lights actually started to stay on longer before going out, an much longer, before now if you blinked you could almost of missed them coming on, an now you could time them if you wanted to, id say a few soconds at least