On a recent trip to Edinburgh (roughly 430 miles) my 1.6 Weber carb MK2 didn't miss a beat all the way there, aside from a rear wheel bearing that was easily fixed.
3 Days later we left on the trip home. Started fine, pulled away fine, then as it reached just above 20 mph it started cutting out.
Tried tightening the carb down, carb flange is new and in good condition, checking spark plugs and spark. Checked the dizzy cap and rotor arm but all okay. Ended up calling RAC and after 40 minutes the guy suggested an air leak on the right hand side of the carb. Tested by spraying that side of the carb while the engine was running and sure enough it conked out.
So looking for ideas on what it might be and some advice on fixing it. To confirm the bits on that side of carb are the throttle and choke cables
Would really appreciate any help as this has me stumped
Cam will drop in, GTi manifold will fit. I went straight to a 4 into 1 stainless manifold on mine, but would recommend adding a heat shield for the steering column boot if you do that. The exhaust I put on was GTi manifold back, with the gl back box to give single pipe, so no need to cut the rear valance.
You can move to a GTi dizzy to make it run better as well
Yes you can add vented discs just make sure you buy the thinner pads
In the process of rebuilding a G60 to go in my MK2 and have started to look at oil cooling.
I'm planning to fit a separate oil cooler using a thermostatic sandwich plate and a 13 row cooler. I'm struggling to get any recommendations on either the correct temp to trigger the oil flow on the sandwich plate (82° or 92°) And What size pipes to run between the sandwich plate and the oil cooler. I want to use AN fittings, so choosing between AN8, AN10 or AN12?
Keen to get your suggestions and reasons for choosing one over the other.
Please tell me there is a recommendation for a Garage in Edinburgh?! Just driven 300+ miles in the MK2 (as the modern car had a cracked alloy) and about halfway here the rear left bearing started grumbling. By the time we arrived it was at full shout..
Need to find a garage before Thursday to either replace the bearing or do something to make sure it doesn't seize on the way home
Having running problems so changed spark plugs dizzy cap. And rotor arm. Wrong HT leads came through the post so it's still on the old set.
Each change improved the situation, so Re-tuned the carb. Ran much better and thought it was all sorted, but then after the test run it was lumpy with unspent fuel popping in the exhaust. Took the king lead off the coil, there was a hiss as if pressure was released, and whet I checked the lead it was wet on the inside ot the king lead and inside of the coil.
Any ideas on what it might be??
Currently at Goodwood for Retro Rides Weekender, so hoping I make it home on Sunday.
I'm sure you are probably aware, but if you are changing the pump make sure you also replace the plastic elbow on the bottom as these often warp during use and never reseal to a new pump.
Have you changed the heater matrix? If you have bypass valves and blown matrix the small pipes in the bypass can get clogged up stopping the cooling system from working properly
Gtechnic do a bumper restoration/protection product (C4 permanent trim restorer) that I think works really well. Bit of a faff cleaning the plastic parts with alcohol first, but comes up great and stays good for ages
Posting on the off chance someone else has had the same happen and knows a way of fixing it that doesn't involve me cutting up my door card (or worse)
MOT day today and discovered the locking pin won't come up. Which means I can't unlock the door and therefore it's failed the MOT.
I've had door handles go bad a not ope the door when it's unlocked but the door handle works as it should (when the door is locked).
I'm assuming something is wrong with the wire the runs from the pin at the leading edge of the door through to the lock itself at the back edge of the door, but I can't see as the door card is in the way and I don't think I can remove the door car the the door shut.
I've had the dash out a few times for the obligatory heater box resto and changing clocks, etc,. Thought I'd put everything back correctly but now the indicators don't auto cancel.
Lived with it for a while and told myself it was fine, but it's starting to annoy me as everything else is starting to come together.
Can anyone tell me which bits to the stalk assembly drive the auto cancel function? Ideally with pictures if you can
Is there a benefit to porting and polishing an 8v PG engine (1991)?
Apologies in advance if this has been covered elsewhere. Sure it must have done but can't find it.
The engine is out of the car with the head off ready to be skimmed, cleaned and valve seats cut. So I want to know if porting and polishing is worth doing while it's in that state.
I've been told in the past that it doesn't make any difference, but it seems to be a standard element of engine tuning...
