That is a hard question to answer. If you want a fully restored, like new car then it will cost you more than it is worth from a dealer and you may never recoup the cost. But that may not bother you. I would think the most cost-effective solution would be to buy the best available that hasn't been messed about with. If you are more flexible on model I've seen what "appear" to be very good low mileage Driver models under £4K. But then I haven't seen them and low mileage is not always a good indicator of condition. Just be very careful not to buy one that looks nice an shiny but under the surface is a money-pit. You are best trawling the ads and go viewing some. You may find using a search engine like newsnow classifieds saves trawling the main platforms individually. If you are very lucky someone on here may have one that satisfies your requirements at a reasonable price.
Hope the weather's kind for the next few weeks then. Although it could never be as grim and cold as living on top of one of the many hills "up North" 😅 Maybe you should get it tested next summer so if subsequent work is needed the weather would likely to be more favourable? What's wrong with the rear beam? Maybe it's time to fit Polo rear stubbies with the advantage of separate discs. Appreciate it ups the repair budget!
Nice buy. Are the rear arches 'well rotten' or can you get away with a rust convertor? Also has the previous owner added a bit more of a concave dish to the driver's door or is it the angle of the pic? Does this model have aircon?
Only thing that worries me about this one is he doesn't say what material it's made from. If it's PLA (standard 3D printing material) a very hot day will melt it to the extent it won't operate and potentially stick in the dash (found out the hard way!).
How bad is the rust/rot? If there is surface rust there's a multitude of rust remover/converter products to sort that. Look at the Practical Classics long-term tests for recomendations. Obviously rot will need sorting and could be costly. It also depends what your expectation is. A usable daily/weekend car that you can use as a long-term project or a good as new. My preference is the former but each to their own. Unless it's really bad it should hold it's value so long as you are careful with the funds. There's nothing wrong with moredoors either 😊 There is an early driver's door on ebay but try a local scrap yard (long shot but try), Matt at MK2 Spares or Brendon Moss at Dubstock. There was a recent post on the forum too. Driver's Door Please share some pics.
You can get new 15" "G60 Steelies" from Heritage in the UK, but if you search ebay etc you may find an odd one. Using the product code may help, see the link below.
That's a sad sight. I'm sure you're gutted. Would you consider building the good bits into a different shell? Or buy a lowly model in excellent condition which doesn't have the GTI premium price and upgrade it. I've been noticing a few auto Drivers at reasonable prices, admittedly 5 door like mine that I might be tempted to do the same if the dreaded happens.
Edit....I mainly use my phone to scan/update posts. Just realised you used to own this! Good to hear no injuries.
Possibly Tim ☺. I just fitted them this way to minimise the possibility of 'crud' getting to the metal arch. The passenger one doesn't fit as well at the rear but that is due to the arch return being too wide from when the rear quarters were repaired. I'll sort that next year. One point to note. I bought the RH one from Heritage via eBay £21 free postage last year. The LH one was about £31 bought direct with 10% dizzy + postage!
The intention is that they will be removed periodically.
How time flies. This weekend I fitted the Driver's side rear arch liner. Firstly I jet washed the arches, when dry I sprayed copious amounts of Lanoguard. Because the petrol tank fIller is on the offside the fixing points are a bit limited. I also didn't want to use too many screws. I've managed to use one screw at the base of the rear inner arch and another just forward of the strut. I didn't have proper liner screws so temporarily used what I have and will buy some proper ones tomorrow. The liner was right against the strut so I trimmed it and used tie wraps through the filler neck moulding holes. Seems nice and secure. I was going to fit the nearside arch liner however the "wedges" that are attached to the liner weren't straight/too snug so I've cut them off and glued them back on. Fixing that will be easier because the tank isn't in the way.
Nearly ready for winter! Oh cr4p I used the W word.
Would it be more cost effective to get good secondhand ones from the likes of MK2 Spares? I'd recommend getting new scrapers since they loose their suppleness. You can them from Classic VW circa £20 each.
If I remember correctly you can just undo that nut. I believe the motor is held in-place with 2/3 bolts on the other side. Probs worth putting some Lube on the outside whilst you have the arm off. My rear wiper rusted-up and stopped working a few years ago.
I've also found my PAS belt is near the end of adjustment too. If I remember correctly I had to loosen the PAS pump so the pulley flange was in the V of the water pump just so I could get the belt on it was such a tight fit. Only to find that when the belt was tensioned there is little adjustment left. Have you tried adjusting the bracket 2x 13mm bolts to the left of the crank pulley to ensure the cog and rack mesh properly..although it looks like one of your teeth has a chip out of it 😕
