Few bits'n'pieces arrived today, some of which came with various items of hardware.
Might just be that certain manufacturers are more complete in what they offer or perhaps it's an indication that you're also expected to routinely change certain items if replaced?
Front ball joints and the drive shaft bearings ( 2 x different purchases) both came with new 10.9 pinch bolts and nuts.
The ball joint also had the 3 x bolts (10.9) and triple plate with captive nuts to attach it to the control arm and the bearing had a new hubnut, pinch bolt / nut (10.9), plus 2 x nuts (10.9) for the shock absorber bottom bolts, but not the bolts themselves and a nut for the anti-roll bar retaining bracket (10.9) ... so basically all new nuts (and pinch bolt) for the items that are dismantletd when taking off the bearing carrier. Also seems to suggest the shock absorber bolts aren't single use or would've een included?
New driveshafts came with bolts and they're 8.8 (original VW's where unmarked) ... I'd have thought there'd be more stress there than most other places but have to assume not!
its the shear stress or torsion rather than tensile strength . on the driver shaft. the distributer clamp bolt maybe a higher grade due to standing water and temperature deviations. again if you change them regularly or dont use car then you would be unlikey to suffer stuck bolts or excessive rust. Ive come across a few loose drive shaft bolts recently, all on cars with polybushes and coilover, not sure if increase in vibration/low resonance is having affect on daily drivers
Hi and welcome こんにちは、私は日本を訪れました。福岡で蒸気タービンのトレーニングを2週間受けました。 私は三菱重工業で9年間働いていました Kon'nichiwa, watashi wa Nihon o otozuremapooa. Fukuoka de jōki tābin no torēningu o 2-shūkan ukemapooa. Watashi wa Mitsubishijūkōgyō de 9-nenkan hataraite imapooa 私は日本語のテキストを本当に理解したことはありませんが。Watashi wa nihongo no tekisuto o hontōni rikai pooa koto wa arimasenga.
repro work fine, just dont yank like a tank... have only broken 1 in 7 yrs of messing with my fleet of mk1,mk2s . you may need to keep the internal of the lock and fingers to let engage on the door lock flipper finger. but thats a small screw to remove.
Cheers Ken. Not autobox, but on balance feel purchase of suitable replacement starter is best route. Will see what VW Heritage have in stock etc. Hopefully later units will have addressed radiated heat issues at manufacture? ive got a new part still here in my shed.. only used to a caddy in workshop
I've found that something are just worth swapping out for sign of trouble.
5 yrs ive had a noisy starter lol.. only took off because i was trying to find out why a its eating batteries . done alternator, starter, battery , binned amp and boom box
NEW starter mate.. ive just this week changed 1 on my mk1 cabby.. cost me 89£ for remanufactured Bosch unit. I'm guessing you're on Autobox, since you mention heat soaks. try some solder matt and wire in place. the heat soak is available in european market , but very pricey then shipping would make silly money. which for a bit of shaped alloy/steel i would consider too much.
the accumulator stops pulsations from the pump, evens the flow, and maintains pressure in the injection system so you can drive off after been stood. i do a replacement accumulator , thats running on my mk1 golf and also on my 16v golf... so works. fuel pump, are bit hit and miss like eddy says, ive had no issue with cheapo but that said the mot guy bust 1 on my sportline... you have to be gentle with connections even on bosch... the plastic housing , acumulator and pump would set you back about 700 new. but you can reduce this by using matthew palmer and brendon moss on facebook. they do 2nd hand parts
