I've tried a few things today including replacing the 2 temp senders, fitted a new thermostat and replaced the fan temp switch. After running the car for 10mins the temp gauge is very close to max, the fan doesnt come on....however, I have realised that the bottom hose is still cold! I assume this means the thermostat isn't opening, the one I have fitted was a Topran one, could it be faulty?
How can I adjust it to open at a lower temp? I assume there isn't anything electrical that effects the thermostat, its purely mechanical?
I have splashed out on an original VW thermostat which will be arriving next week.
Anything else to look at?
you can put in boiling water and take measurement of length or view it open, should change from cold to say 92c watch a video on boiling water..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7LMSnhsK3g
030.121.113 around 80-84c To fit 1.05 HZ, AAK, ACM, AAU 1.3 NZ, MH, NU, 2G, PY, 3F, AAV 1.4 ABD 1.4 Diesel 1W 1.6 ABU 1.6 Diesel RC
056.121.113D around 87c
068.121.113H as low as 80c and upto 90c
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sometimes you have to say FXXX IT and give it a smash.... long chisel into the base of the stem try shock it free... rad out stilsons and twist out.. get a replacement from https://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/PartDetails.aspx?s_pc=027905205SN&s_vid= nothing wrong with gesr ive had and resold from them
try lowering the thermostat operating temp, from 90c to 87c to make come on early... and do same for rad fan. Check sender too. but if fluids running through ok, and fan comes on eventually then you could just have poorly gauge(over reading)
Hi and welcome back.. theres plent of life left in that old car. So its dependant on where you live and how much you want to spend your savings. Lots of help on here, and a few links to garages that can do the work. I'm based in Retford, a few good garages and restorers near me...Oh and me of course lol..(be warned im slow as Fxxk but will get done eventually) another friend of mine is cheaper, and quicker, as he only does cars he wants and not as fulltime service and repair doing drop ins. You can expect to pay 30 to 80£ per hour these days depending whom you deal with. So sometimes which is what we/i do is agree a price to work to, and fit in on quiet days.
think i saw some of those wheels on ebay/facebook market place 4 with caps.. in chesterfield. The bumpers will clean up nicely with usual treatments i reckon, heat,linseed oil.
I would say before jacking car up and removing wheel make sure loosen the hub but.
Most people like their alloys so I take off and put car in a gear and jam brakes on with tool. Have faith in impact gun.. If all else fails then I always check for spares locally such as drive shafts and full CV. This is my current daily so I had to fix it to get home, no buses, and 30£ taxi ...so its fix or sleep there. Last time I had nut stuck i drilled it opposite sides and managed to salvage the drive shaft.. was renault van.
Have to assume parking lights are routinely checked, but like you say wouldn't have thought it was something that was tested, good to know though for when the time (hopefully) comes.
Its such a small do nothing light,I'd be more concerned that I have to drive with torch in hand unless have full blast beam on.. in the country with no street lights its quite dark.. done light bulb and relay loom change did improve but I'd prefer more. I may try led bulbs https://i.imgur.com/hPRP8bv.jpg
Removing wheel 17mm socket in my case, loosen all them 1 full turn, Jack car up. (Use car weight to pop wheel off hub)
Remove the tie rod, using 19mm socket in my example, if all turning grab pin with mole grips. Then hammer out if replacing the rod end. If keeping try jacking the pin out with trolley Jack.
Remove bolt and pin from CV joint(balljoint) try levering down with bar or correct tool,more height maybe required.
Remove axel/drive shaft nut 30mm socket, keep washer and nut. If balljoint stuck try turn steering wheel whilst assistant levers the suspension arm may pop off, if not use the balljoint tools. Pull hub free of drive shaft. Cut CV boot and remove, clean old grease. Using CV gaiter tooling fold gaiter inside out, and fit over cone tool and then onto drive shaft, unfold the gaiter should be correct, add ties or crimp supplied cables after adding new grease to CV internals.
Remove CV inner as above but remove triple square bolts , and then pull out the shaft. Undo circlip and knock off old CV. Clean and replace with new parts, fill with grease and refit to shaft fit circ clip.
Ball end remove from hub and above measure position from hole/stop on the wishbone, remove 3 bolts slide balljoint out, replace with new suit in same position as found.
Tighten bolts, check wheel alignment same as found, adjust if can. Rebuild as removed.
well myvalver finally passed MOT today.. after some issues causing a failure. CV gaiter, 1 x outer. near side ballend joint. opposite side obviously(offside) changed both sides since had to spit to do cv.. Parking light nearside. (didnt even think needed that to be honest.) Broken wire..
its a bit hit and miss with customs charges, ive been building hose kits and the like with autodoc, but until items arrive i cannot put price on anything... as its still unknown. Had things from latvia come import charge free. then stuff germany import charges on them. best bet is to add 20% to purchase price as emergency cash to release from postal/customs,use if you need it.
Hi eddy you cheeky ..... i fit vinyl at the body shop.... what we find is someone cuts and prints them doesnt go to the effort to fit.... that said i do hate doing them... same as window tinting thats a job for someone with superclean hands and time and patience
