1
Messages
This section allows you to view all Messages made by this member. Note that you can only see Messages made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Keekster64
2
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Replacement vacuum pipes for pierburg
3
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Replacement vacuum pipes for pierburg
4
Technical / Re: A stupid idea i know
As some of you know i got a mk2 with an engine in it that, im really not keen on. ive got a second car now, so this one was going to go, but with the lad turning 17 soon ish, his rather keen on it, now a 1.3 or 1.6 carb engine dont turn up often.Personally, I would find the right engine or flog it.
Yet ive got a mk3 1.4 auto, that is mine should i want it, im going to take some parts full stop, as little earner on ebay,
But engine is 30k from new, still runs, sounds nice, the car it self is not worth saving, but would this be an easy engine swap, or do i mot mine as planned, flog it. Then just find a 1.3/1.6 that already runs etc
Why? I bought a standard 1.6 driver for my son for his first car. Once he passed his test at age 17 I had the 'fun' of insuring it. It was eye wateringly expensive to insure an unmodified car. So trying to insure a modified one, regardless of the engine size would be a nightmare.
5
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Gear linkage going out of alignment
Check it's a nyloc nut on the pinch bolt. It shouldn't come loose once set.It seems to have a copper pinched bolt and it was tight. I've already overhauled the linkage with new bushes. I think the problem is my son tried to force the car into first gear, when it was still in third, because he didn't realise it was in neutral. This caused the rod to slip a few mm within the selector and put it out of alignment. I think I'll strip it, degrease it, and put a touch of locktite on the end of the shift rod under the selector, that way it wont move again if he makes a mistake.
What is the condition of the rest of the bushes? It worn and there's movement when you set it, it could well be affecting the overall alignment.
A kit like this is what you need.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220783472995?hash=item3367b87163:g:gJAAAOSwsaZifNI2
And even if done previously, new replacement parts only tend to last a few years not the 30+ years of the OE product
6
Engine & Gearbox / Gear linkage going out of alignment
7
Mk2 Golf Chat / Re: Buying my first mk2
8
Your Non Mk2 Cars or Bikes / Re: Rally beetle
9
Your Non Mk2 Cars or Bikes / Rally beetle
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/110347765@N04/53413875253/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_3321"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53413875253_5d06ab67cf_k.jpg" width="2048" height="1519" alt="IMG_3321"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
10
Mk2 Golf Chat / 2.0 8v conversion
https://youtu.be/_U8YpSuBaNc?si=M_4fAgIf5TrLbyz8
It really appeals to me, because I’m old school. I don’t do computers but I’ve built plenty of carbs, and many tuned air cooled engines. This would be a cool conversion on my sons Driver in the future.
Hardest part would be collecting the parts. I like the intake and exhaust set up. Might be a bit more clearance for the radiator on a mk2. Looks like he used a 02 gearbox, driveshafts etc, so looks straightforward in that respect. Looks like it takes a gti clutch too. Only bit I don’t like is the alternator belt set up. Very little of the belt runs on the water pump pulley. Will require a very tight belt which will strain the bearing. Should really have 90 degrees of interference on the belt. What alternatives are there? I’m not much of an expert on the water cooled parts and what mix and match parts can be used. TIA
11
Engine & Gearbox / Re: 8v 1992 GTI Cold starting issue
12
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Cutting out after a couple of minutes
I might be talking rubbish here but I had a 1.6 cl had a very similar fault the car would start run for 10 miles and then lost power and cut out. But it would start shortly after and run fine. The fault was the automatic choke sticking on when running but would release after being stood for a while.That can happen. Its usually because there is no electric feed to the choke, meaning it needs the coolant to heat up before the choke backs off. The symptoms are it bogs down when trying to accellerate, and can die completely. Its easy to check, if there is current getting to the choke (when the engine is cold disconnect the wire to the choke and put the ignition on, there should be 12v at the wire). Usually the grey thermo switch breaks. But it can also be cause by the earth for the choke housing being damaged. That can be checked with a multi meter by doing a continuity check. My sons driver have both these problems, but it took a while to figure it out! Another way to check the choke it backing off is pull up the intake box, put on the ignition and watch the choke flap. After a minute or two it should be starting to open.
13
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Cutting out after a couple of minutes
I'm very familiar with pierberg carb, having stripped the one on my sons driver and spent ages reading up the pierburg manual. I wouldn't blame the carb necessarily, and I doubt its the waxstat, which when it fails leaves the idle way too high. Its easy to check though. When it dies, lift the carb air filter a bit and spray some easy start down it to see if it starts. If it does then it could a carb problem. If not then I suspect its an electrical fault. I would try changing the ignition module, dont buy a cheap one, but a good quality branded part as they have a habit of failing in the way you describe.
If the carb is to blame, then it may be carb icing, which is easy to check, ie the carb body will be stone cold. Usually with the carb problems, the car will run, just very badly which is why I think its an electrical fault.
14
Engine & Gearbox / Re: Engine Shutdown when warming up
Update,Its possible, check for white mayo under the oil cap. I'm assuming no signs of oil in the coolant. Next step is to do a compression text.
Thermostat removed and refilled for troubleshooting.
well run no issues with higher temperature while i was filling it up without the cap open.
as soon as i put the coolant cap on both light came up coolant temp and oil pressure.
any idea?
Personally i think head gasket leaking while hot or head cracked that let pressure in the coolant system maybe?
15
New Members Say Hi! / Re: New Member with a fast idle problem already 🙂
Hi recent purchase of a 1990 1.6 petrol MK2 with 46,000 miles. With recent 400 mile journey car developed a problem with a fast idle in neutral roughly 2/3000 revs. No leaking hoses and carb sealed not drawing in air both thermostat sensors replaced but still nothing, still running fast. Any suggestions on where to look next?Check your waxstat is working, by removing it (just leave the hoses attached) and putting it in boiling hot water.