Front wings are bolt on. When replacing them, if the ones being removed are original there will be a deep layer of sealant along the bask edge which will hide the last couple of bolts.
The wings are basically the same across all models (Golf/Jetta) for all years however there are some subtle differences between genuine original factory fitted early wings and the later spec ones.
The diagram below identifies some of the differences on later spec or reproduction wings.
Any reproduction wings bought now are based on the later spec. however depending on supplier you may find the repeater hole and holes for side trim need to be drilled if required.
The front grill of a Mk2 Golf is made of one piece of plastic and a metal trim strip along the bottom which is painted to match the body colour of the car. A VW roundel sits in the middle of the grill, between the two 7" round headlights.
The Jetta is much the same but with rectangular headlamp units.
The Jetta and Golf front is interchangeable and was a common mod back in the day. However note the headlights are attached to the metal slam panel so when changing the grill between Jetta and Golf this panel also needs to be changed.
As well as the VW badge, some models had an identifying badge; GTI, GTD, Driver etc.
GL, GTD, GTI and some other models also had additional inner spot lamps. These are rigged up to be additional full beam lights rather than being any kind of independent auxiliary lights. The inner spots are slightly smaller than the headlights and fixed to the grill not the slam panel.
Variations: Up to 1987 the grill had 7 narrow slats closely spaced.
As part of the first major facelift when the quarter-light front windows were replaced with one piece larger front windows among other changes, the design of the grill changed to 5 wider slats.
The fixings for the VW badge, the spot lights if fitted and the model badge all changed slightly too so badges and spot light are not interchangeable. The main Headlights are the same for all years.
The basic grill is all black, GL and other premium models had a chrome trim. Sometimes matched with a chrome strip in the bumpers and window rubbers. While the GTI grill had a red border.
The pre-launch GTIs used as press cars, and therefore some of the very first GTI's only had the two headlights and no red trim. There is some debate as to whether the GTI badge was also positioned on the other side as there are some early press photos that show this, but it could be these press photos were left hand drive cars which were flipped over and photo retouched as often happened (and still happens now with many European car adverts).
The Rallye has a slightly different arrangement with lights and a grill unique to the model. Smaller rectangular projector lamps and a vent row in the grill which goes below the headlamps.
Variations pop up by way of aftermarket alternatives.
De-badged:
Some others, these would command high prices these days:
Seller is unknown to me so I can't vouch for the car or anything but seemed like a decent price.
Details from advert, but you will need to be on facebook to contact the guy as no contact details. There's also more photos on the advert, I've just copied one for a taster (if it works)
£1,595 · Bradford, England Mk2 Golf Auto
NOW REDUCED FOR QUICK SALE TO £1595!
I am having to sell my MK2 Golf GL due to buying my neighbours house that recently came on the market. I was going to keep as its a solid example but needs must.
It is a 1.8cc Auto with Power Steering. Four Door.
BODYWORK:- The bodywork is not bad at all. No obvious rust. Its finished in the "uncommon" Royal Blue metallic paint. It has some slight variations in colour here and there and some small dents and scratches but still looks rather presentable. The Rear boot area is solid and so is the tyre well area. There is no signs of accident damage. I had an inspection done before I bought it and welcome anyone to do the same if they wish.
MOT:- The car was taken for MOT by myself. I had the front top struts replaced as there was excessive movement. It also needed the D bushes replacing that are on the anti roll bars, MOT runs out on Jan 21. Since the MOT, the car has been parked in a dry garage and not been driven.
INTERIOR:- The interior is not bad at all. No rips or tears in the seats. Carpets are good to. Comes with decent floor mats.The Sunroof works as it should, as does the Power Steering. The roof lining is a little stained and saggy but easy to sort out should you want to.
ENGINE;- The engine is a 1781cc with Automatic transmission. I drove the car for 50 miles or so and it was silky smooth. Really was impressed and it was an enjoyable drive. It didn't burn any oil ( I checked the dip stick before the drive) and neither did it lose any water. It had a slight rattle at the rear, but it was just overstretched exhaust hangers which I replaced for new.
RECENT WORK CARRIRD OUT:- I wasn't happy with not knowing the history of the timing belt so I had that changed for a good quality German brand. The radiator was replaced for a new one . The car has had a full service including Oil and Oil Filter, Coolant flush, Air Filter and Sparkplugs.
GENERAL:- This is a good solid example with a great engine that runs very well. Its very responsive and the gearbox works great. It Drives silky smooth, and that's for an old car! It is ready to drive and enjoy. However this would also be an ideal candidate to have a full restoration done to take it back to its former glory. Would be great to see this done to a factory original condition. The Alloy wheels are brand new with almost new tyres. I have priced this very reasonably to reflect its condition and the fact it doesn't have any service history prior to what I've done. For that reason I'm firm on the price. I've tried to describe the car as honestly as I can. Please give me a call if you need to know anything else
Hopefully you can see this pic, it's a direct link to a facebook page so I guess may not show due to permissions etc.
But assuming you can see it, I was 'Papped' at the first Nation Meet I attended. I'd had the car about a month iirc and the roof bars were there because I was buying a load of parts off Bobby (G60go).
There's something I really love about this picture, it shows the life this car had had 'rust an all'. It was something that after the restoration started I felt very weird about changing. Like the car lost some of it's character forever.
Anyway, I recently watched the episode of Salvage Hunters: Classic Cars, with Drew Pritchard where they tackled a Beetle and very professionally restored it restored it to a very tired and worn out condition .. huh!?
I didn't really dig the Beetle, I'd have loved to see it pristine, but I get it!
And I couldn't help think about my journey with the beloved Eleanor and how in her transformation she lost some her story, but started a news one..... Very philosophical, but I hope you get what I mean.
The factory Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) of a Mk2 Golf is 4x100 meaning 4 holes 100mm apart (at their centres).
This was the same across all models for the entire production run. If your car has anything other then 4x100 then it's due to a conversion.
A popular modification, which often goes hand in hand with a more powerful engine conversion is to fit 5x100 hubs from a later VW. This is usually done so the running gear can also be taken from the donor vehicle. Although changing the ends of the driveshafts will allow you to keep 4x100 hubs if that's your preference.
5x100 provides a difference selection of wheels and brake set up.
More info on PCD:
The PCD is the diameter of the circle which passes through the centre of all the studs, wheel bolts or wheel rim holes.
The easiest way calculate the PCD is as follows:
1) Measure the distance ‘S’ between two adjacent studs from the centre of each hole. 2) Calculate from the formula below
**Note: on 4 lug fitments you can measure from the center of one stud to the center of the stud directly opposite.
One reason this is good news, there's been questions around the long term future about being able to use classic cars on the road. Due to steps to phase out combustion engines in favor of electric etc. VW clearly recognise the market value of their legacy of vehicles.
Is it just me or does anyone else really dislike the over-detailed look, with shiny tyre dressing and plastic restorer making all the trim just look greasy?
Car showrooms, 2nd hand dealers, the hand car wash and car valeters and of course the Instagram wannabe driveway detailers. I know getting the blacks black is always a hot topic and ongoing battle but I'm just not feeling all this dressing and product application.
Saying that my car is a shambles, hasn't had any attention since I SORNed it in March due to Covid, I can't wait to drive it again and I know with that will come the inclination to spruce it up but I still just want to get the right level of sheen.
The basic model range available between 1984 and 1992 consisted of the following: C CL GL GLX GT Driver GTD GTI GTI G60
Also: Synchro Rallye Country
There may be some variations or additional models based on country.
Special editions (see link above) are usually based on one of the above basic units with some kind of configuration of optional extras, usually a limited run interior pattern and a badge/sticker often on the rear quarter.
Body types consisted of 3 and 5 door hatchback (Golf) and 2 and 4 door saloon (Jetta). There was also a van which is essential a 3dr hatchback with metal panels instead of rear windows, no rear interior and a flatter interior floor pan covering where the rear seats would be.
The 4wd platform was used for the Synchro and Rallye, the Rallye also had many significantly unique body panels. Rallye and G60 had bonded front windscreen.
Across Germany and other parts of Europe specifically commissioned models such as Police vehicles, Postal Vans, airport support vehicles can be found.
The early/middle/late debate isn't as straight forward as some people might think.
The Golf and Jetta evolved every year with trim updates, minor and major face-lifts and additional options but the most significant change came in late 1987 when the small quarter-light windows were removed and replaced with full opening front windows and repositioning of the door mirrors. There were many other changes but here is not the place for that detail.
The Chassis designation for these early cars is 191 and 192 for right and left hand drive, this is where the unofficial naming of type 19 or typ19 comes from. Type 19/typ19 is used by some (much to the distaste of other) to describe these early cars.
However the 191/2 body shell continued to be used well into 1988 so there are many cars with the later spec front doors, different side mouldings and grill etc. that are still on the 191/2 body shell.
In late 1988 the body shell was updated which saw a change in the shape and position of the front tow eye and the configuration of the handbrake lever.
In late 1990 the GTI and GL got the 'big bumper' treatment. Consisting of large plastic front and rear bumper which covered the lower metal rear valance and replaced the front valance panel and splitter trim. The arch trims were extended to fit behind the bumper and fed into new plastic sill covers, the side trims were narrowed.
Indicators (or turn signals) are located in the following locations:
1. Side repeaters in the front wing*
OEM:
Aftermarket Smoke:
Aftermarket Crystal Clear:
* In 1985 a side repeater became required by law on all new cars in the UK. You will sometimes see repeater blanks fitted. These are only legally allowed on cars registered before 1985 so you will sometimes see them on C reg and before. Or on imported cars, such a G60 or Fire and Ice. Side repeaters were not required in Europe so an imported car can continue to drive on the UK with blanks fitted even if the car was later than 1985.
USA spec cars had a side marker light cut into the front wing above the bumper.
2. Front indicators within the front bumper
Small bumper:
Big bumper (Aftermarket Crystal Clear):
3. Within the rear light cluster
OEM Standard Hella:
OEM 16v half tints Hella:
FIFFT also did a half tint, and Hella did a range of coloured lights; all red, green, blue etc Tresser did a full tint that went with a panel across the boot Various aftermarket configurations exist.
USA rear light are a 'cool' mod in the UK, but they are not road legal here as they don't include a reflector. An additional reflector may get you through an MOT. The USA lights have individual bulb holders.
So who's benefited from the 6 month MOT exentension? Mines been bumped from June 6 to Decemeber 6. Haven't used the car since March and it's been on SORN since lockdown started. I don't even think I'll recommision for July as I still have no where to go, but I'll tax the bike so I can restart my IAM which got put on hold.
Whilst the extension is great, I don't think I want a December MOT as any failure means I'll be out on the driveway in rain (or snow) with no evening daylight trying to get it sorted. But also not keen on a June MOT as a failure that close to Bristol Volksfest and other summer shows could mean missing a weekend out.
I think I'll present it for MOT in early September, (need to check Berkley Castle Show dates) after show season but before 'proper' winter hits. Feels like a good time of year for renewall, get everything checked, safe and ready to run through winter and not have any worries for summer shows following. Obviosuly regular checks and maintenace throughout the year will stay on top of any issues as they arise so in theroy no need to worry about a fail but you don't often get chance to get it up on a ramp so easy to miss something.
Anyone else got any thoughts on this, or thinking to manilulate the renewal date to yoru advantage?
The rear speakers in mine are still the original VW items. I'm looking to upgrade.
I was considering making up some kind of adpater to fit 5.25 round miderange and component tweeter but I'm not 100% conviced on that idea so might just go with like for liek replacements.
Don't want to spend a mint, but wondered if anyone had any experince with these Alpine SXE-4625S https://tinyurl.com/y9nngbfv or any alternative before I hit buy now.
The oil sump at the bottom of the engine is the container that holds the engine oil, when the car is running the the pump takes the oil to the top of the engine and gravity allows it to flow through the engine, lubricating everything on it's way, till it returns back to the sump. The circulation of oil is continuous... However, image taking a bend at high speed, this force of acceleration will override the downward force of gravity (G Force) and make liquids slosh to the side. If this happens the feed to the oil pump may be starved of oil. With an engine under load this could be for just long enough to have catastrophic results.
Adding baffles to a sump creates 'walls' so the oil will only 'slosh' against the walls of the compartment. And therefore even out the oil level horizon across the whole sump.
Various designs have either holes, trapdoors or a maze arrangement to allow the oil to flow between compartments. Some also have horizontal shelves to prevent oil sloshing too far up the sides keeping the oil fluid in the bottom of the sump and reducing splashing.
Mototsports companies such as Schrick produce aluminium baffled sumps:
But for a more cost effective solution DIY welded modifications can be added to a standard sump:
A mock up is a good idea before competing any work. You can check your design doesn't fowl any engine parts.
A simpler maze design, not as impressive to look at but I'm sure some benefits are found:
A simple 'wall' design with large oil ways.
There are no splash guards with this design so I expect it's designed to be used with the windage tray, a stock item found in the diesel engines but a good addition to any set up.
Another take on the splash guard idea, but without walls:
The examples given are taken from the internet, there is plenty of information online so please research the best design for your needs before undertaking this kind of work. Getting it wrong could have the negative effect of preventing oil flow. Any modifications you decide to carry out as a result of reading this page are done so at your own risk. The images shown above are just visual examples, without the feedback of the owner it's not possible to know how successful or otherwise these were. Ownership of these images belongs with the originator, sorry I am unable to credit the original sources as they are unknown, but should anyone claim the rights to these image please get in touch.
Here's a quick how to for embedding Youtube videos in your posts.
If you've copied your post over from the old forum you may see videos shown as links like this:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/tTHlDlO0bzw[/youtube]
[youtube]https://youtu.be/CnPtUb4l92E[/youtube]
[youtube]https://youtu.be/zuU-aga_2aQ[/youtube]
On the new forum you don't need the [youtube] bit at the start, or at the [/youtube] end so remove these, the forum software will automatically recognise the video.
The following is a reference guide for the standard bulbs used throughout the car.
FRONT Dipped Beam/Main Beam H4 60/55W Front Spot H3 55W Front Fog Lights H3 55W Sidelight 233 T4W Front Indicator 382 [BAU15s] P21W Side Repeater 501 5w
The Mk1 had a Campaign edition, the Mk2 had the One In Ten Million Edition, to commemorate the production of 10,000,000 Golfs. The One In Ten Million is sometimes referred to as a Campaign.
