In summary, when they brought out the rolling 40 year rule the Gov didn't think about the previous rule on pre 1973 black and silver number plates.
Meaning as soon as you hit the 40 year mark and applied for historic status you could legally fit an old style black and silver set of plates, even if your vehicles was build after '73. So, this is now being addressed with 1980 as the cut off point so even in a few years time when our cars start to qualify we'll still be restricted to white and yellow with black lettering.
Long shot, but does anyone want to sell me just the right hand sunroof deflector lifter arm, ideally the Audi stainless steel version? I have the left hand side.
I’ve just been debating the whole performance / lifetime air filter vs OE paper issue and I know it’s a question regularly asked - although not as regular as which oil should I used, lol.
And thought it was worthy of a share as it wasn’t just a forum thread of various people’s opinions it actually seems to be a reasonable and almost scientific test and review.
The mk2 has a plastic one piece moulded fuel tank and filler neck. It will not be plagued with rust in the tank like a mk1 as there are no metal parts. However, the lift pump and fuel level sender assembly are inside the tank. There are metal parts there that can rust and rubber parts that can deteriorate, especially with modern fuel. Inspection of this assembly is recommended when you pick up a new golf as it’s one of those areas out of sight out of mind.
Access is gained from under the boot carpet. You’ll see a black metal disc with 3 screws. Remove this and then unscrew the big plastic collar.
Fuel filter should not be overlooked at time of service.
Removal and fitting: The tank is hung under the car with a combination of 3 straps. 2 of the straps share a mounting point so don’t get confused when it looks like you don’t have enough bolts.
The straps are prone to rust. But replacements are available including aftermarket stainless steel.
The tank is also secured at the filler by 2 bolts in the wheel well. The mounting bracket is prone to rust so you may find these don’t need to be undone on removal. But the bracket will need to be replaced.
If you find your filler flap doesn’t close properly it’s probably because this bracket has rotted away and allowed the filler neck to protrude.
The filler opening has a rubber boot, there is a wire ring which holds this in place.
There is a drain hole at the bottom of this boot so make sure you keep it clean and free flowing.
Removal of the rubber seal can give you a view of the bracket, you’ll need a torch and possibly spray a power washer up there to remove the 30+ years of road grime.
Long shot, but just in case any of the LHD owners have a spare of if anyone bought the wrong one by mistake, I'm after a LHD scuttle tray. Late type, hard plastic.
I've found a trade seller doing reproductions but I have to buy a minimum of 50 pieces
Fire and Ice was a limited special edition launched on 19th October 1990 in Europe. It wasn't a UK car but some have made it over here as LHD imports.
The car is also linked to the Film; Fire, Ice and Dynamite starting Roger Moore (which can be found on YouTube and seems to be totally bonkers).
Fire, Ice and Dynamite (German original title Feuer, Eis und Dynamit) is a German feature-length sports film directed by Willy Bogner in 1990.
The film contains heavy product placement (for example, VW released a special edition of the Golf MK II named "Fire & Ice" which featured some special equipment details like the seat covers being said to be designed by Bogner himself). There's also the weird and wonderful Kamie kitted 'Dynamite' edition.
The car itself is a late spec, big bumper GTi with Estoril 15" wheels and a unique two tone, pink and purple interior and Dark Violet pearl metallic paint. Available as both 3 and 5 door versions. 8v, 16v and G60 version were all available. Like many of the VW specials it has a unique decal on the rear quarter panel / C pillar.
The following was translated from a post on the official VW Classic Parts facebook page, celebrating 30 years since launch:
A real designer piece and a classic for a long time: Even after 30 years, the Golf Fire and Ice has not gone out of fashion 💜 On October 19, 1990, Volkswagen started selling the special model, the design of which was created in collaboration with Willy Bogner. The exclusive paintwork in dark violet, pearl effect and the interior fittings "in unusual colors" were intended to "appeal to particularly younger, fashionably ambitious customers" (quote from the product information sheet at the time). That worked - a real cult quickly arose around the special model, which is one of the most popular Golf 2 variants today. And now it's officially a classic car.
So me and the misses have been binge watching a show on Netflix call GLOW (Gorgeous Ladies Of Wresting).
It's a few years old and a bit of a giggle, I like the grumpy director character.
It's set in the 80s so I'm also loving the soundtrack, the clothing and the cars. Although the majority are American, they're still cool.
One of the main characters, a struggling actress has a nice little shabby mk1 'Rabbit' cabby.
Thing is, to the best of my knowledge the cabby didn't come out till 1980. And I think series one was set 1984/5 if not earlier. So a struggling out of work, skint actress is driving around in at most 4-5 year old car? A mid 70's beetle would have been more likely.
But by series 2 she hooks up with a guy with a Jetta, a Camera man for local cable TV channel, again possibly not the best paid job inthe world...... thing is the Jetta is mk2, and not only that. It's a 90's spec big bumper Jetta, so late 89 at best.
yep, that's right a big bumper one, at a time when Golf's still have quarter-light windows. Even pushing the boundaries of imagination and ignoring the spec, this would be a BRAND NEW car.
And just to confirm the date for a reality check, Series 3 starts with the Challenger Shuttle disaster of 1986.
But if you decide to watch it, don't be put off. There's cool Mercs, Beamers and a lovely Gold 911 in Series 3 as well as heaps of cool American stuff. Shoulder pads, big hair and ladies wresting.
I know there’s been loads of documentation here but just looking for some perspectives.
I’d like to do bigger brakes, currently on stock 8v brakes.
I had a full 16v set up previously but never got round to fitting on the old car and since have sold all the parts so I’m starting from scratch.
I don’t need silly size as It’s only a stock 8v, but you never know might go 2.0 one day.
And I know it starts with the hubs, now these seem to be silly money now. So I wondering on the best approach. Would going 5 stud make a difference? Could I use mk4 parts making it cheaper/easier to get hold off or would that still require 16v hub carriers?
And are new parts still available!? The money some people are asking for used and poor condition I’d imagine if new were available wouldn’t be much more.
Also can anyone point me to one of the previous topics where all the SEAT and other VAG options were listed? Not sure if that’s been transferred from the old site.
So, I'm changing my audio set up so sticking this up for sale.
Thought I'd ask on here before turning to the Mighty Bay of E (and idiots).
It's actually from around the early 2000s but still classic enough Alpine styling to not look out of place in a Mk2. I had it in my previous mk2 and kept it when I sold that on, it's fitted in my current one as it's such a nice unit.
Be being a bit later it benefits from RDS and more power which is why I got this instead of the 90s Alpine I had previously.
Head unit is TDM-9501RM which is good high spec model. Many you see for sale are 7000 range, 9000 range was top dog iirc.
It outputs a decent 45 watt a corner, so good enough power for uprated speakers in the standard dash/door/rear shelf locations without the need to any additional amp. But has pre-out for an Amp or Sub if required.
This unit uses the older M-BUS 8 pin din plug rather than the newer Alpine AI connection, so you can get a din plug to Aux for a few quid of eBay it you'd rather use the head unit with a phone.
The bad bits: As you can see from the pics the numbers on some of the buttons are a bit worn off in places. There is currently a spare face on eBay for £15, I was considering getting it. Also I don't have the trim surround, although this still available, I have one in my eBay watch list as I also intended getting one before deciding to change it.
When I got it it didn't come with a cage so I never fitted it properly, but I have since bought a brand new aftermarket cage for the correct Alpine fitment. I haven't got round to fitting it yet but will include this in the sale.
Asking £65 all in, including postage.
For reference there's a couple the same but head unit only for sale on eBay, one at £89.99 + P&P the other with a starting bid of £60.
Just in case anyone on here is interested I have a pair of aftermarket rear light clusters for sale.
Ad on eBay for pics: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154139830092 Ideally looking for about £30 or best offer but started the eBay listing from 99p to see what they get.
Feel free to bid and try you luck or PM me and deal direct.
I know this is pretty much the basics so shouldn't be asking, but just wanted a 2nd opinion and to double check I'm not missing anything.
I bought the car nearly a year ago now, and at the time it had recently had a service so I didn't bother doing anything and just drove it. I managed just under 4000 miles in the 5 months before lockdown and since then the car has been laid up and now been sat for 6 months.
So I'm planning to give it a good service before I recommission it for road use again - not that I have any need to drive it yet.
Anyway, not just for my own benefit, I'm thinking as I'm going through this process that I could put together a new post containing all the basics as a kind of check list a new owner could refer to.
I know there's lots of common first jobs; gear linkage, heater matrix and heater box foam, and removing the dip/dim resistor for example but for now I'm just focusing on service items.
Here's what I've got so far:
Basic service Oil 10w40 Semi Synth (although I used to run 5w30 fully in my old one) Oil Filter (decent brand with no-return valve) Air filter (replace if paper otherwise clean appropriately if a long-life e.g. K&N, ITG Pipercross type is fitted)
Replace these additional items Distributor cap Rotor arm HT Lead set Spark Plugs V belts
Recommended for a more complete service Coolant flush and replace New thermostat Brake fluid change Gearbox oil change Cam belt change Timing check
Next level - professional intervention maybe Carb tune up in non-injection Professional set up if K-jet
Tyres, brakes etc should be obvious and picked up by an MOT if any issues so I'm not too worried about those. In my case I fitted 4 new tyres already.
Is there anything else I've overlooked? Would you add PAS fluid drain and replace or is that best left alone if no issues? Would you bother to replace cap, rotor and leads if it's running OK, or just do a visual check and only replace if looking worn? Would you go further to say drop sump and clean pickup and remove cam cover and replace gasket for mk3 (8v) as recommended thing to do or just as optional?