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Topic: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD (Read 571 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #30
As I’m waiting on a sourcing an 02M 6 cylinder gearbox, I did some of the things I’ve not really had the urge to do, the Mounting for the Adrenalin tuning shifter was one of them, as the tunnel is so sloped, I had to level it out and knowing that it wasn’t going to be an easy “cut at X angle for 200mm” it was going to be a bit of a pain but I had to do it and I’m glad I did as it really makes me feel that bit closer to getting it running..

2mm Steel nuts welded on the back and she fit like a dream











As the seats were out to weld in the shifter mount, I made up the spreader plates for the passenger side 6 point harnesses and lap belts.



The haldex rear beam was all put together so I could start getting an idea of rear driveshaft lengths and angles



The TT rear shafts were cut and I took out about 30-35mm from both, I then slid some tube over which had an ID of 27mm which matches the driveshafts, what I plan to do is get it at running height and then weld the sleeves in place to account for the angle of the arms, I’ll then send these off to get them made as one piece





Then it was on to the slam panel, don’t get me wrong, the original is lightweight and it would of been less of a headache to use but it lacks adjustability, strength and is flimsy as soon as you start cutting into it (not good when I have two oil coolers, a MK3 VR6 radiator and possibly an Intercooler/charge cooler radiator to mount

So following on from the last post:

Current specs are -

3mm steel for the mounts
38.1mm tube
12.7mm tube for the headlight mounts
30x15x2mm box section for the radiator bracket and grill tabs

The biggest problem I had was the headlights, lining them up With each other, the grill and making sure they’re solid enough, it is heavier but it’s allowed me to rake the radiator forwards and I can add to it at a later date




















Once I figure out what cooler I’m going to run for the gearbox, I’ll mount both the engine and gearbox oil cooler behind the grill and then once the arches are on, the aerocatch pins will have brackets made up and will be welded onto the top tube, all in all I’m pretty happy with how it came out from a simple idea in my head that I’ve not seen anyone else do

And to finish, the dash plastics rocked up so they were fitted along with the speaker covers to hide the roll cage holes









And once the gearbox is here (should be next week), the engine will be dropped in to enable me to fabricate the cross member, prop bearing mount and haldex adapter bushing bracket and then I’ll start throwing the fuel system together


Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #31
Not a lot to really update on this..

Managed to get hold of a 4 motion 02M gearbox which meant the engine could be mounted up, no idea on the history of the gearbox but it’ll be split and rebuilt with whatever gear set I throw into it. As with everything, the box was cleaned down before mounting in so that  I didn’t cover everything in CV grease and mainly because I’m pedantic..





The engine was cleaned down as it was covered in metal dust, dust, cob webs and all sorts.. as it’s been out for about 3 years and 10 months...

Engine and box married up, although no clutch and flywheel fitted to make it easier, then hoisted in and mounted with a Dutchbuild front 02M conversion bracket and a epytec gearbox adapter bracket. Stock corrado cross member was used just to locate where it needs to sit but ran into a snag due to the fact that the drivers side rear engine mount was shortened in a lathe just before I took it off of the road and due to the epytec adapter, it sits on an angle so a new rear engine mount is needed.





The other problem which I started to see a few months ago was the front triangulation fouling the turbo, stupidly when I put the tubes in, I thought the turbo would end up in the middle of the engine bay.. completely forgetting that the engine is sat to the left of the engine bay sooo.. the turbo will only fit if underslung, leaving next to no room for a downpipe against the engine mount and will melt the steering column boot, so that’s an excuse to get a tubular one made up to sit the turbo to the rear right of the engine








(The engine is currently jacked up off of the aux bracket to keep it level and not sit on the chassis legs

Because the gearbox was in, I decided to mount the rear haldex system so I could fab up the prop bearing bracket and haldex cradle tubes, just trying to finish all fabrication so I can start putting things on..








I was under the impression that the prop would need shortening, but it actually married up pretty well, all that was needed was to pull the cup back to expose the joint, pull down a little bit and they both went together





Although this exposed problem number two.. Which I had again, foreseen..




The tunnel needs to be extended to prevent the prop from rubbing on the floor where the rear seats previously were, this isn’t that much of a problem as it’ll go back on the jig anyway, but it does mean more cutting and welding.

I also made a start on the haldex cradle hanger tubes, the rear turrets has 3mm spreader plates welded onto them and the boot floor was cut open so I could make a start on the tubes, although this is literally all that has been done as I ran out of time today..








And that’s it really, I spent a few hours the other night making a game plan on how to finish this, or Atleast get it to a stage where it can be painted to prevent any more rust from the humidity in the air and having it all laid out really does help! Aiming to have it back on the jig by Christmas to do the tunnel and under seal it and finally put the welder down..

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #32
Carrying on from yesterday, I cracked on with making a cardboard template for the box which will sit on top of the epytec haldex bracket so it’s level.



The rear cradle was jacked up to ensure it was level, tightening the mounting brackets at the same time, using powerflex black series rear haldex bushings also helped as there is no give in them.

This was then transferred onto 3mm steel and cut and tacked





I’m planning on using M12 bolts to hold it all together so the holes were drilled using a 12.5mm drill bit

The uprights posts were also made up using 38.1mm ERW tube, 3mm end caps with 12.5mm holes drilled in the centre





The uprights were then bolted down to the bracket and the gap measured so I knew how much I had to notch from the bridge tube



 some more tube was cut down for the bridge





And placed inside



I haven’t been able to do more than tacks as my welding mask won’t retain charge, while there was daylight I’ve been putting the mask outside in the sun to let it charge, running back inside and tacking then repeating it a couple of hundred times.. the fun stopped when it got dark though so haven’t been able to do more which is an inconvenience to say the least..

A new battery ordered though so I can crack on with mounting the other tubes, putting the boot floor back together and finishing the welding

 

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #33
Great updates, really enjoying watching it coming together.
Mk2 Driver
Mk2 Silver 8v
Corrado G60 Turbo
Mk2 Red 8v
Mk2 Grey 16v
Mk2 BBM ABF
Bora 20vt
Mk2 Green VR6
Mk2 Green ABF
Mk2 BBM 20vt
3.2 TT Roadster
Mk2 Red 16v
225 TT Coup
3.2 TT Coup
Mk4 Anni Derv

Mk2 BBM R32

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #34
Great updates, really enjoying watching it coming together.

Cheers man, want to get it done now so just trying to crack on with it, trying to see every little job as progress

Re: Berg Cup Mk2 VR6T 4WD

Reply #35
Managed to get a battery for my mask so it was full steam ahead to finish off this diff hanger.

First was to finish welding the mounting tubes



Then it was onto notching the tubes which mount to the turrets, making sure they were both even and both at a 40 degree angle



(My notcher is out by 5 degrees due to the clamp pulling it when tightened)

Then tacking in place and welding





And then finally the horizontal bar to tie it all together



I was planning on doing cutting the holes in the floor pan which I had cut out but I’ve managed to lose my 40mm hole saw so with another one on order, that’ll have to do for today. Just needs to be welded to the turrets once I have that bit of boot floor back in