Cope's GTI - Page 6

Topic: Cope's GTI (Read 4539 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #75 – July 04, 2023, 05:46:03 PM

I managed to get all the scuttle buttoned up over the weekend.

But firstly, sometimes things don't always go to plan…
When I was welding, I had a thin plastic painters sheet over the bonnet, with a big sheet of cardboard over the top. Unfortunately, that wasn’t enough, the splatter from the welder got through and destroyed the paint! And the cardboard had left loads of marring in the paint.

Not pretty… Not knowing how much paint I had left to play with I had to just go for it, with the thought that I’d probably have to paint the bonnet as well. So I had nothing to lose.

At this point I decided to give both the bonnet and scuttle a really good machine, as I just wasn’t happy with the dust nibs in the paint, so I decided to wet sand them out as well. I used some 2500 grit on the nibs and a 3000 3M Trizact disc on the rest of the panel, this takes the heads of any inconsistencies.

Usually a quick flick over with the machine and she’s grand, but this time it was a real pain to get the wet sanding marks out. For some reason the paint was rock hard. I ended up using G3 cutting compound on a hard pad, and my machine set on a faster speed than I was comfortable with. The danger on such a skinny panel is cutting through an edge in the panel or bonnet. There was some serious heat in the panel from the machine work but luckily it went well. Refined using Menzera Medium on an orange medium pad and finally Menzerna Super finish on a red soft pad.

I’ve said it before, any type of paint work is stressful… at any moment you’re back to square one, so I was very happy to have this one ticked off. Luckily the bonnet survived!

Treated myself to a cold one!

I then managed to refit the new screen on my own, using some builders brick level string in the seal, putting pressure on the outside while working the string around the inside in a circular motion.

The new top tint has really grown on me! Almost like a factory sunstrip, which is right up my street.

Last job was a clean of the glass and a couple of coats of Swissvax Sheild Wax.

Glorious.

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #76 – July 04, 2023, 10:43:49 PM

It's a shame about your bonnet but looks like your done a great job painting it! I tried and failed getting my screen back in, ended up getting a mate to do it for me 😳 I do like the top tint screens too, I wish I had looked for one of those. Hopefully see you at the national meet?

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #77 – July 05, 2023, 12:28:23 PM

Cheers Ian! I actually wanted a clear screen but this is all the local place had in stock, can't argue for £100!

Yeah see you at the meet!

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #78 – July 06, 2023, 10:46:48 AM

Naa, the top tint is an absolute winner!
May have to get one for my Blue mk2 too!

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #79 – November 20, 2023, 07:25:31 PM

It feels like its been a while!

Since the last update I’ve been on the mk2 golf owners sprint day, which was a lot of fun!
I was there both days this year and camped over, it was great chatting to some old faces and meeting some new ones!

At the end of 2 day, I thought I’d go squeeze in one last run… can you guess… yep I had a fairly decent off! Went into the chicane too wide, rear tyre touched the grass and I was just a passenger.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NleSmjesP1o

Unfortunately I did take out Matt’s Trackslag sign… sorry Matt! But luckily no damage to the car, other than some marks which polished out.

That evening I was tagged in this picture

Lol

After the sprint, my wheels were absolutely obliterated, the pad deposits from the CL RC8’s were like nothing I’ve seen before.

I used some iron out remover, it took a full bottle and about 10 goes at it to get the deposits off.

I’d also noticed I’d gone through a set of nearly new discs… in a 2 day sprint!!
(yes those are meant to be grooves)

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #80 – November 20, 2023, 07:27:06 PM

Nurburgring 2023
Let’s start with the prep.

The first port of call were new brakes, I went with a Ferodo DS300 on the front after having loads of success for years with the DS2500, and a new set of Tarox Strada on the rear. The front received some new Brembo Maxx grooved discs and new ATE Type 200 fluid.

I also needed to sort some new tyres, the part worn NS2R’s were well past it, and provided little grip even in the dry. I’d been putting tyres off just because of the cost, in the last year or so like everything prices have gone through the roof.

I’d decided on a set of new Nankang AR1, but this time in a 205/50/15 instead of the usual 195/50/15. Sourced for £460.

This was a big risk because the arch clearance with 195’s was already tight on the 15x7 et13 Mahles. So some jiggery pokery was needed. For me the golf has always been about function and form, so raising the car, or fitting generic arch extensions wasn’t an option. I’d decided to make as much room in the arches as physically possible, whilst keeping the standard OEM look.

The front was easy enough, the wings were chopped out behind the arches. This is all well and good but then the arch fitting also needed removing, again arches can be stuck on with adhesive, but I’ve never been a fan of that, I’ve done enough rust repairs!

I remade all the mounting points lower down to secure the arches with flanged bolts and captive nuts.

It’s hard to photograph, but the plastic lip on the arch was sanded flat with finger sander to the face, so it retains its profile from the outside.

The same was done on the rear, the double skin welded back together, ground flat, seamsealed and painted.

It turned out really well!

Believe it or not, the car doesn’t not catch at all! Relief! And I love how the chunky tyre gives a really purposeful look.

Next up, a new cambelt and tensioner, which I bought from Amazon prime of all places!

I also aligned the car, using a length of cotton across 2 axel stands, the tricky thing for me was room, as I don’t have the space to make a square box of string around the car, so I had to do one side at once. To make sure nothing moved (hard when you have to drive the car to turn it around!) I marked the steering wheel boss and the column, so I knew the steering wheel was exactly in line.

I set the geo as:

Camber: –3.0
Toe: 0.01mm Toe out

At this point I’m only a week or so from going to the Nurburgring, and thankfully the car went straight and felt amazing!

The last job on the list before going away was to sort out the relay ball on the gear linkage, as these like to melt on track. So I bought a length of nylon, and made a new ball for a spare shaft I had. The benefits of nylon is the heat resistance and easy of manufacture/cost.

After the gear linkage was aligned, the car was finally done, and ready to go!

I’ll uploads a full trip report shortly, stay tuned

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #81 – November 21, 2023, 10:44:16 AM

Love this, amazed how you can get the tyres so close to the arch but still retain 100% driveability.

Also, can you give me a bit more info on the string method with the axle stands on one side?
I've never been able to do it and always end up going to the local garage,

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #82 – November 22, 2023, 07:11:45 PM

Quote from: Monkey on November 21, 2023, 10:44:16 AM

Love this, amazed how you can get the tyres so close to the arch but still retain 100% driveability.

Also, can you give me a bit more info on the string method with the axle stands on one side?
I've never been able to do it and always end up going to the local garage,

Yeah I think something often over looked is caster angle, and that’s probably a big part of why I get the clearance. Im not sure on exactly measurements but if that factory castor angle is say +1 degree, i’d guess mine would be nearer +4 degrees. The benefit as im sure you already know is you get more dynamic negative camber, so the more steering input the more negative camber I get.

For the string method of alignment, its a real pain… a real pain but if you have time and patience it works. First loosen the track rod end lock nut. Then centre the steering wheel, once happy put a piece of masking tape on the steering wheel boss and one on the steering column, draw a straight line between them. This is a reference mark to get the wheel perfectly aligned each time, best to use a fineliner for this for accuracy. Then set up a length of cotton (use cotton, anything thicker and you have less accuracy) between 2 axel stands, make sure the axel stands are positioned so they are longer than the car. Measure the gap between the centre of the hub to the cotton - a steel rule is perfect for this. It doesnt matter what this figure is as long as its perfectly the same front to back.

Next measure the front of the rim to the cotton and then the rear. You will see straight away if the wheel is toeing in or out, I found its easier to draw a diagram to visually see the difference. - now remove the string ( this bit is annoying) jack the car up adjust the track rod, lower the car down, roll the car forward and back, check your alignment marks on the steering wheel, then set the string back up and re measure, over and over until you are happy. Repeat on the other side.

I was sceptical if the marks on the steering wheel would be accurate, but from driving the car it really is, as long as you use a thin pen line, to make sure its perfect each time.

You can get a steering wheel clamp on ebay to prevent the wheel from moving but as I had to turn the car around to do the other side it was pointless

Hope that helps!

Re: Cope's GTI

Reply #83 – November 27, 2023, 09:16:26 AM

Thanks James, great info there.

Only issue I have is I've changed my rear hubs for Polo Gti items, which I believe are a little thicker, so can no longer rely on them making the string completely parallel with the car, I was thinking about trying to find the exact centre of the car font and rear, then do it off of that.