Nearly got my rolling shell back from the body shop. Took more work and longer than I thought (as usual). Engine all rebuilt meantime and ready to go (fingers crossed it starts). Front seats at the trimmers. Next job when it arrives is on to the two post lift for all the suspension off to blast and repaint that. Is there perchance a sequence published somewhere for stripping front and rear suspension, replacing the bushes and then refitting it all? Thanks in advance.
I've reassembled my engine and attached it to the gearbox. There's a small uncovered gap left in the flywheel cover plate attached to the engine just at the back behind where the drivers side driveshaft exits the gearbox. I assume this is put on afterwards to allow the driveshaft flange to slide past the cover plate when mating or splitting the engine and gearbox. (Pictured here)
I dismantled the engine myself originally but cant remember taking a cover off, and cant find anything in my bits and peices - labelled or unlabelled - that looks like it fits this gap.
I asked Matthew Palmer if he had a plate and he has sent me one that looks close to whats needed (pictured), but doesnt look like its the right one.
I think i need a plate with two bolt holes, but I'm not sure. Maybe I've just done it all in the wrong order and I need to split them again. Can anyone please advise me?
Trusty Haynes manual says that rear engine mount bolts on the driver side (7 of them - 4 to the crankcase and 3 to the top of the rubber) should be done up to 33ft pounds with oiled threads. I did that okay at first, but then vanity took over and I pulled them out and replaced them with nicer shinier stainless bolts. On tightening these bolts felt far more ductile and I've stopped before I got to 33 ft/lb (I reckon i'm at around 25),. They feel like they are plateauing and just not feeling like they are getting tighter as quick as i'd like them to feel at that stage. Should I stop where I am at about 25 ( I guess), or should I go on and see if they go buttery. Or should I go back to the old bolts?. Views, please?!
I have rebuilt my 1.8 16v after a minimum rebore and head skim/guides etc.. Ive used loads of assembly lube, but I'm thinking of spinning it up without plugs to get the oil pressurised and distributed before I start it. It doesnt have an oil pressure gauge, so how do I know when it is up to a decent pressure? Do I a) wait for the tappets to stop clattering? That might take ages. Do I b) buy something to show me the oil pressure on a t-piece from the oil filter sensor (hey - another tool!), or do I c) just spin and wait for the light to go out.
If just relying on the Oil press. light, d) how do I test it (and the sensor) work properly before I start, please? And e) how many batteries is all this likely to use before Im ready to stick plugs in and fire it up?
And f) should I wear a funny outfit and film it for 'youve been framed' to at least get the £250 back if it flies all to pieces?!
Hi All, My 30 year old oil cooler scrubs up well, but the rubber seal on the top looks a bit hardened with age. Fair enough. Can I get another seal? I cant see one for sale. Will a seal prised out of a new oil filter do the job? Thanks in advance. https://photos.app.goo.gl/RBnrVqa4a18xqspB7 #
Cant get back into my old restoration thread (which was in the new members section). Maybe its been too long.
Had a day to do some more Golf today, weather, permissions, etc. all in place. Wohoo!!.
Drove down to the workshop to put the cylinder head on and get the cams and timing sorted, but you can only achieve so much when the timing chain turns out to be the wrong one! Got the head on and did some frittering about with sensors and swapping in stainless bolts and nuts etc., where I can, then came home and ordered a new timing chain. Hopefully finish off the cam end and assemble the clutch end next time.
Got some duplicate original sub frames and wishbones, etc.. Want to use them if they are okay rather than risk cheap subs. Should I borrow some kit sand blast myself or send away for cash, do you reckon? How hard is it?
Hi. I know the dates have been announced, but how do I buy an entrance ticket for the 2021 meeting, I want to aim to bring my restored & finished 16v to the show by then, and maybe get it around the track too. But I can only see last years tickets for sale.
I managed to take out my crank end bolt (with considerable effort and a few bits of wood and scaffold bar). I read without much surprise that this is a single use bolt, so ordered another one. I think it was a tenner or so.
The one I took out was a six sided bolt of 45 mm length but the new bolt that has arrived is a triple square-headed bolt of same thread pitch and diameter but just 30mm length. It doesnt even look like it will reach much of the loading part of the thread in the crank., as the crank end toothed pulley is 25mm deep. see pictures
I think I can take out, rebuild and replace a re-bored etc. 16v engine okay - with reference manual assistance and of course forums and friends. (I'm half-way through, so I hope I'm right).
I'm okay with instructions, if a little impatient, and I can use feeler gauges a screw-gauge and a torque wrench and I know what circlips do. I've not had a go with a dial gauge yet (but I do have my grandfather's dial gauge kit) and Ive not tried welding either (hopfully wont use that in rebuilding a gearbox!
The question: Should I contemplate having a go at rebuilding the original 020 2Y gearbox (after 125k miles), starting with a bearing and seal kit, and using other parts as needed? Or is this in a completely different league?
The thinking:
If it's okay for an amateur, then I'll have plenty of darkness time during the winter that I cant easily use on sorting the shell and fittings, and I can make the space to do it in evenings at home and maybe save myself money and boredom! And maybe feel good afterwards too.
I've been seeing a lot of 16v bonnet photos which look like they have converted their K-Jetronic to electronic fuel injection, sometimes doing away with the distributor as well. Is this done for extra Horse Power, or am I missing something / making a mistake in restoring my engine and the original K-Jet for road use?
Has anyone got any experience of MaXPeeding connecting rods in a 16v golf? I've busted mine and at £280 less discount to £200, these look like good value compared to standard VW at £500. Grateful for views, please?
I am trying to find some replacement big end Connecting Rod bolts for my Mk 2 1987 16v Golf rebuild after £125k miles. VW does not say they are single-shot, but opinions vary on whether I should replace them or not. I think the correct part number that I need is 048 105 425. I cannot find that in stock anywhere, but there are other similar-looking (I know!) big end bolts available, including: 052 105 525 A, 056 105 525 B and 056 105 525 C - all of these are available.
Is it possible to use any other bolt as an alternative to mine like-for-like? Can I have my connecting rods machined to take any of the other VW bolts? Should I buy pattern parts? E.g. Febi Bilstein 02126 Or should I just bang the originals back in and torque them up and see if they go cheesy - then decide!?? They tap out anyway if they break.
I'm looking to convert my '87 16v to power steering when I restore it. I have all the right standard option parts. But I need the steel bracket that holds the reservoir bottle (square bottle not round). Part number 191 422 845.
I can make one fairly easily, but would really prefer one with a vw stamp on it if possible. Has anyone got a spare on an old shell somewhere? Any condition is fine (nearly!). Happy to cash or find something you want in exchange.
Hi. Restoring a 87 16v I used to own in the early 90's and have traced and bought back. Pulled it apart. Looms out and all. . Rolling shell is in the body shop for a full windows-out respray. Engine is in workshop for minimum re-bore, new pistons, and exhaust valve guides, but otherwise looks good. Gearbox looks good enough to go back in as-is. When the painted shell comes back the wheels and hangers will come off and all will be shot blasted and powder coated. Off the interior will go to the trimmers. Umming and ahhing over suspension. maybe just gas uprated struts. Got some 15 inch BBS cross spokes. Now ive got to remember how it goes back together - yikes. Wish me luck.
