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Messages - EJYT

17
Engine & Gearbox / I'm torquing about stainless bolts!
Trusty Haynes manual says that rear engine mount bolts  on the driver side (7 of them - 4 to the crankcase and 3 to the top of the rubber) should be done up to 33ft pounds with oiled threads.
I did that okay at first, but then vanity took over and I pulled them out and replaced them with nicer shinier stainless bolts. On tightening these bolts felt far more ductile and I've stopped before I got to 33 ft/lb (I reckon i'm at around 25),. They feel like they are plateauing and just not feeling like they are getting tighter as quick as i'd like them to feel at that stage.  Should I stop where I am at about 25 ( I guess), or should I go on and see if they go buttery. Or should I go back to the old bolts?.  Views, please?!
18
Engine & Gearbox / Re: DRive shaft bolts
Quote from: Eddypeck on
I’ve always reused... but worth checking they’re still tight after a couple hundred miles (don’t ask me how I know)
Oh dear. Sounds a bad day.
I snapped a driveshaft (in a Mk3 VR6) once at traffic lights.  Thankfully all fixed under warranty that time (it was 6 weeks old!).
I wonder if VW would make a similar goodwill gesture to my 33 year old 16v now ....
19
Mk2 Golf Chat / Re: Con Rods
Thanks Grey goose. Theres a story behind them.

The OE bolts were single use, so i needed to find more bolts. I was having trouble sourcing the right bolts but I found some Febi ones.  But they turned out to be a tad large and I'd wrecked a con-rod trying to fit them.
Disaster. .
So then I had a choice to try to source some second hand OE conrods and more expensive ARP bolts, or just to buy a matched balanced set of these lovely looking things. They were £400 with ARP bolts fitted, so not far off a replacement set of con rods and refitting  ARP bolts myself.  
But to your question my engine is standard power, nowhere near what these are capable of handling.
20
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Mk 2 16v restoration
Quote from: Monkey on
That's the bit you're after.

There may be an alternative, but when people look to upgrade the exhaust, they usually just go straight for a four branch.


Going back to exhausts if I may, does anyone have any experience of the SSP manifold sold by Heritage? it looks like it comes with the right heat shields, etc.. I'm trying to do original where I can but the OEM exhaust as a whole is difficult and very expensive. I'm not looking for out and out power and or noise, and would potentially marry  this manifold to a Trackslag comfort system. What does anyone think of the value, noise, fit of this as a proposal, please?
22
Engine & Gearbox / DRive shaft bolts
Can I re-use the driveshaft bolts (@ 140k miles) , or do I need new ones. Can I use stainless, or are they high tensile? Thanks very much in advance. 
23
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Hello all.
Welcome. I'm doing the same as you with an 87 white 16v. In fact I used to own the car for a couple of years back in 1990, and have just  bought it back from its one owner since then.

Read about it here if you  like
https://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/clubforum/index.php?topic=280.0
Stripped and being sprayed. Engine reconditiioned and rebuilt.
Subframes and suspension next. Then wiring back in.... Then the interior....

Enjoy your journey / project.

Eddie
24
Other Problems / Re: Heater box foam replacement
Hi administrators. This thread has photos partially obscured by Photobucket logos. I'd be grateful if you can please fix it so that I can use it to refurb my heater please?
I think you said if I told you where they still occurred then you can fix it.  Thanks so much.   E
25
Engine & Gearbox / running oil pressure up before starting after rebuild
I have rebuilt my 1.8 16v after a minimum rebore and head skim/guides etc..
Ive used loads of assembly lube, but I'm thinking of spinning it up without plugs to get the oil pressurised and distributed before I start it. 
It doesnt have an oil pressure gauge, so how do I know when it is up to  a decent pressure?  Do I a) wait for the tappets to stop clattering? That might take ages. Do I b) buy something to show me the oil pressure on a t-piece from the oil filter sensor (hey - another tool!), or do I c) just spin and wait for the light to go out.

If just relying on the Oil press. light, d)  how do I test it (and the sensor) work properly before I start, please? And e) how many batteries is all this likely to use before Im ready to stick plugs in and fire it up?

And f) should I wear a funny outfit and film it for 'youve been framed' to at least get the £250 back if it flies all to pieces?!

Thanks in advance.
27
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Mk 2 16v restoration
Quote from: PhilC on

Kerrikey!  I think you've got some welding to do there.
If youre going to do a thread story on it, I think I started mine in the wrong place, or should have changed a whilke back. .  I'm going to ask advice on how to switch it to  Members Cars.  I may have to do quite a few cuts and an enormous paste! Wait for a quiet evening in - I hear weve got some coming!

Eddie
28
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Mk 2 16v restoration
Okay, I may need to get one, or get one made. Shouldn't be hard. Ive asked Trackslag what they think too.   Im so grateful for your help once again. Eddie
30
New Members Say Hi! / Re: Mk 2 16v restoration
But this was the old manifold and exhaust i took off.
Current system photos
Manifold  https://photos.app.goo.gl/7uVyfybJW22NpqDq5 
Full system https://photos.app.goo.gl/KgTy2Y5FWmaqj7T37
Rear box  https://photos.app.goo.gl/rHXZUhjV7AHnG6iU9
Middle section  https://photos.app.goo.gl/R4UA5Ssi57SHT6fE6

The manifold is 4 x 1 1/2 inches down to a 2" exit pipe. So there's little room around it.   If the Trackslag system could fit a twin downpipe to a stock VW twin pipe manifold then I'd be happier for space and heat shielding etc.