Welcome to the group. I have an 87 16V which has been garaged for 25 years, and was taxed, MOT'd , and running to the shops and back when I took possession of it. It had just had a decent ding in the front, so I stripped it down, and also pulled the engine out as I couldn't get to a nut to change the cam belt. Then it seemed rude not to strip the engine and - well, a minimum rebore and new pistons while it's out, new oil pump, refurb the injection.... oh, and a Quaife..... Meantime, a light respray had turned into a mouldings, door shuts and windows out job. And that's where the rot really started to show itself, I found myself needing to strip back more and more to follow all the corrosion - much more than I (or some experienced friends) had envisaged from what looked a solid car. The lifelong underseal hid a few bits of mischief and all. The cars are well built and disguise it well, but they can rot. away in the background until it shows, and then you can be facing a significant cost to repair and repaint. So my first advice would be to start by stripping down the car as much as you can to find any corrosion, and spend your money on sorting that first! But it is worth it, btw. Mine looks a million dollars now, and it's not even fully finished yet! So good luck with yours. I hope you find it rewarding and worth it all,
HI. I have one you can have for nothing if you want to try it. Its been used and has been blasted and repainted. Bought it a couple of years ago second hand from an enthusiast with 3 Golfs, but never used it. I live in Chichester if any good.
Sussex Engineering Supplies (SES) in Bognor did my 16v rebore, crank polish and head skim after all the checks and pressure checks etc. to make sure there were no cracks or leaking core plugs etc. Nice guys.
Nearly got my rolling shell back from the body shop. Took more work and longer than I thought (as usual). Engine all rebuilt meantime and ready to go (fingers crossed it starts). Front seats at the trimmers. Next job when it arrives is on to the two post lift for all the suspension off to blast and repaint that. Is there perchance a sequence published somewhere for stripping front and rear suspension, replacing the bushes and then refitting it all? Thanks in advance.
I'm still wracking my brains how to make this plate cover fit. Eddypeck, your diagrams were very informative, except that I couldnt find my one-piece plate cover. Its a KR engine and a 020 gearbox for a 16v. I think im going to have to split them to find the part number of my plate, and maybe make up a plate to cover the last hole. Puzzling.
but im damned if i can work out from the photos what the problem might be. Anyone else got a one-piece flywheel cover plate like this? How is the last gap covered behind the driveshaft flanges?
I think I might have to pull the gearbox back off to find out if there's another way or something i've missed. Ah well, i'll maybe get better each time!
I've reassembled my engine and attached it to the gearbox. There's a small uncovered gap left in the flywheel cover plate attached to the engine just at the back behind where the drivers side driveshaft exits the gearbox. I assume this is put on afterwards to allow the driveshaft flange to slide past the cover plate when mating or splitting the engine and gearbox. (Pictured here)
I dismantled the engine myself originally but cant remember taking a cover off, and cant find anything in my bits and peices - labelled or unlabelled - that looks like it fits this gap.
I asked Matthew Palmer if he had a plate and he has sent me one that looks close to whats needed (pictured), but doesnt look like its the right one.
I think i need a plate with two bolt holes, but I'm not sure. Maybe I've just done it all in the wrong order and I need to split them again. Can anyone please advise me?
