is it, that a brand new mk2 does not have any holes in the license plate mounting plate ?
apparently, the dealer just screws screws in on arbitrary places, which does not have to have a specific distance or to be at a specific height. right ?
now, how to mark the old screw positions on a new license plate ?
are there special rubber frames for placing them behind the rear plate for avoiding the plate scratching the paint ?
even better would be if i would not have to poke holes into the license plates and i do not like those bulky common frames (often with a little advert on the bottom) either.
in the city, the 90hp engine gets 3/4 hot. could it be the waterpump or the thermostat ?
according to carwiki, the pump should be exchanged every 120 000 to 175 000 km.
the previous owner already bought replacement parts, which he gave me with the car.
one on your side did a nice youtube explainer about the water pump exchange. unfortunately, one of his bolts have been braking, but he was able to save it.
can i drive the car with probably slight overheating or is it so bad, that i should immediately go to the shop ? are there hints i should not miss before i start ? how much tension should be ob the pulley after reassembling it all ?
on one mk2 i have a ignition wire, on another, which is older, i have not. having both wires on, the radio should still be able to save the settings (and pull a standby current).
in a library thread, i have linked a guide and a utube vid, about dismantling the unit, but maybe you could check the electronics before you have put it that far apart.
the heater-blower-motor can be unmounted very easy: unscrew the passenger side shelf, and the foam below. unlock the lever behind the blower motor, turn, pull and unplug. you could check it on external 12v, now.
if there was corrosion, you could put on the hazard warning light and check the voltage near the plugs, on the light bulb panels in the trunk.
sure, the radiator-fan-motor is connected to a fuse.