The GT Special is a Euro/German spec and has the code E1E (which can be found in the boot or the service book).
So you should be able to check if you've got one. The main points to distinguish it from a UK spec Driver is the black headlining, the tinted rearlights and the BBS RA alloys and so-called "Rainbow" sport seats.
It never had the GTI splitter at the front and was always a small bumper model, as was the Driver.
The engines were 1.8 and could have been either typical GTI engines in 8V (PF, PB) or 16V (PL or KR) but also the 90bhp monojet engine (RP), which was very popular in Germany.
Almost German Wiki said: Golf GT / GTD Special Fittings of the Golf II GT with MFA (1988)
Based on the GT and GTD was taken with the model year 1988, the GT / GTD into special sales program. The term "special edition" is perhaps not entirely accurate, because the special equipment was regularly in addition to the normal standard amenities CL, GL, GT, GTI and GTD until the end of production of the Golf II with the 1.8-liter engine with 66 kW and The turbo diesel engines with 51 (up to model year 1989) or 59 kW (from model year 1990) available. In the model years 1988 and 1989 there was the special model also available in Special GTI and GTI 16V with identical equipment.
The equipment (different from the GT / GTD):
* Schwarz, Atlasgrau metallic und Royalblau metallic Special finishes and Oakgrn Black Blue Metallic Brilliant Black metallic paint finishes as well as standard, black, royal blue metallic and metallic Atlasgrau * Words "Special" on the C-pillars * Green tinted glass * Partially darkened taillights * Interior in dark gray with "Color-GT stripes", seat backs and covered with black leather side bolsters, floor and rear shelf in black tufted-velvet lined * Front sport seats, rear bench seat with individual character * Lowering by 10mm (not on GTD Special) * Dark gray and black headliner, C-pillar trim, "uncommon" ly with tinted interior light * Optional Recaro sport seats in gray with red stripes, then adjusting the side panels of the seat materials, elimination of the Color-GT stripes * Multifunction display (not for GTD Special) * Radio Gamma with 2 Loudspeakers in the front doors * Aluminum wheels with cross-design BBS 6Jx15 with tire 185/55R15 * Ventilated front discs and rear discs (GTD special: full front discs, rear drum brakes)
Price 1990: DM 27,180 (GT Special), 28,110 DM (GTD special with 59 kW/80 hp).
Golf GTI Special
In the model years 1988 and 1989, the GTI and GTI 16V GTI Special is available as a special model, this combination has been appointed, however, were only very "uncommon" ly. Special equipment such as GT.
Do you have the positive battery connector with leads. The wiring from mine to the starter solinoid has failed.
I would update the battery leads to some from a mk4. I’d did positive and earth. It’s much improved cranking and they look fresher, with better clamps.
Well, I think that's fair. I bought my old one in June 2013 as a running project for £400 (I ended up paying £500 for them to chuck an MOT on it, allowing me to drive it home legally).
Most of you know the story on that one. A car in that condition now (low ownership, reasonably low miles and unrestored, so no previous owner bodges to rectify) would fetch around £3000
I think the last time it changed hands it went for £18,500.
If you take a 2.0 8v from a mk3 (or mk3.5 cab <-- cheapest option) would you not keep the mk3 alternator and pulleys, giving you a serpentine belt set up. Would that help?
Have you checked the thermostat fitted is working correctly? It's possible to get a duff one, you should always test them in a jug of boiling water before fitting.
To test, start the car and let it idle. Hold the bottom radiator hose and check it's cold. Keep checking, it will stay cold until the engine gets up to temp and the thermostat opens. The hose will then get hot really quickly and it won't be possible to continue holding it.
If the bottom hose warms up gradually then the thermostat is faulty.
If that checks out, then I would ask if your heater works properly. Has a new matrix ever been fitted, and is the heater bypass valve still fitted? Issues here could be stopping the water from flowing around the system properly.
Only if you're sure these elements are all working then I would turn to the gauge and/or a potential electrical fault. Are the wires in the engine bay in good condition?
Typical behaviour from a general garage these days. If they can’t plug it into a computer and get a code they’re lost and don’t want to go down the rabbit whole on diagnosing but it takes time they might not be able to charge you for if they can’t actually provide a solution :-(
A good option for a donor car is a mk3.5 cabriolet. It’s essentially a mk3 with a mk4 front end.
You can get them cheap, they’re often overlooked. That will get you a 2.0 litre 8v which is a solid option if you’re not going down the mk4 turbo or r32 options which so many want these days.
There’s loads of mk3 parts, brakes, running gear etc that can be used on a mk2. They’ll often have decent leather seats that can be modified for a mk2.
I don’t think there is any difference with any mk2 fuel tanks. If you do go down the cabby donor car route I don’t know if you can use that fuel tank. But if it’s the same as a normal mk3 then you can. And that will allow you to use the in tank fuel pump too I think.
Mk3 cabby owners often pay good money for the front end for a later car conversion.
If you have the space to break a car and the patience you’ll probably get back the cost of the car giving you essentially a free engine, loom etc.
I need to add, I’ve never done this so you’d need to fact check what I’ve said here but I’m fairly sure. I have looked into it previously and think it would be the route I’d take if I were doing a conversion.
A 2.0l 8v would be adequate as far as I’m concerned.
Mk4 rear callipers are a common swap. And direct boot on part. You just need different flexi brake hose as they have a flat fitting.
But not the fronts, so it’s probably just the rear they are referring to.
Sorry can’t help with the other issues. Personally I’m not a diesel fan. So I’d be looking for a fresh engine swap if it was me. And start from scratch to sort all the gremlins as you go.
I don’t know much about carb’ed cars. I’ve only ever had GTIs.
But based on previous posts I’ve seen from others it could be something to do with the wax stat.
The wax stat is a little device that changes the fueling once warm. Wax melts within the device and allows something to move and therefore make the adjustment.
I think this is only an issue on the original Peiburg carb, and not an aftermarket Webber. But if you have the original then this maybe something to look into further.
It was fitted by a previous owner, so don't know much about it, but it's the full kit from the downpipe back. Twin tailpipe but they're fatter than standard with a rolled finish so not an OE look, but good enough for me and fits the mildly modified look I'm happy with.
With a later-spec car the carpets are cheap and crappy compared to early cars so I don't know how much that affects things. I have standard original and quite tired underlay.
Whilst is sounds great with your foot down when you're in that kind of mood. I have to be honest, for the everyday motorway commute, even at cruising speed, when I first got the car I thought it was pretty unbearable.
I've got used to it now, and mostly ignore it. But it still gets to me sometimes.
I have wondered how much better it would be with Dynomat and/or a decent carpets and underlay kit from Newton. But that's probably more money than I'd be willing to spend... especially while it still leaks in heavy rain
